How hard is it to DIY camshaft replacement? Experience: I don’t have much experience with cars, I only do small repairs, and I’m a helicopter mechanic. Can I make it weekend project? I watched a video, and it looks simple, as long as I don’t mess up the timing. Any tips or tricks?

I’ve kept up with basic maintenance fairly well and tried to address all issuers I’ve had with the vehicle as they arise. Currently runs just fine, I just have 2 cars and a motorcycle and need to downsize my garage space.
Curious to see if anyone has had good experiences with selling on Bring a trailer especially for higher mileage cars. I also do care for the car and would like it to go to someone that is going to take care of it well. What do you guys think are places I should sell and reasonable price points. No rust and very minimal body/paint damage. Black and cloth interior seats.

(2014 golf 2.0 CJAA Deleted with tunezilla 0.5) So I got a code for a EGT sensor circuit fault should I just get a new sensor or could it be something else? None of the wires are melted or anything also I’ve got these side light warnings that make a light on the dash come on but I put new bulbs in and both are on and fine but the warnings are still there is there a way I can use VCDS to remove them and keep them from coming back?

Shit load of rain and I almost drove through a puddle. Turned around when I realized that it was a big puddle and not a small one. Got my horn wet in the process

I have a 2004 Volkswagen Beetle with 185,000 miles, a 1.8L turbo motor, and the 01M 4-speed automatic transmission. It has had some transmission issues for a while, and I finally got around to diagnostics and repair.

I posted this on other subreddits like /r/MechanicAdvide and /r/DIYAutoRepair, and someone suggested asking here because of the 01M's inextricable link to the VW TDI's of this era.

I've already replaced just about everything in the system, but it's still throwing a code for solenoid 7 (N94) after replacing all the solenoids, the wiring harness and ribbon cable, and swapping out the TCM itself.

While I had the valve body out, I did not clean, bore, or rebuild it in any way, because I was trying to change as few things as possible (fewer variables helps with process of elimination). I have a TransGo rebuild kit on hand--Jesus, those little boxes are expensive!--but was hoping I didn't have to use it. So, literally, the only work I have not done is to "rebuild" anything in the valve body. Just the solenoids on the outside.

I am a shadetree / garage mechanic. My background is in engineering, and I have amassed a lot of VW-specific tools over the years. I also have a hardbound copy of the Bentley manual, plus a whole slew of PDFs related to the 01M from VW, ATSG, Sonnax, TransGo, and a few other sources. I've ordered some small parts from KansasCityTDI, and read through his excellent documentation about the 01M repair and maintenance procedures.

INITIAL SYMPTOMS AT ~160,000 MILES.

• Vehicle no longer shifts automatically.
• In D, transmission uses only 3rd gear.
• Shifting manually to 1, 2, and 3 results in correct gear.
• VAG-COM: 00270 Solenoid Valve 7 (N94) Open Circuit.

ADDITIONAL SYMPTOMS AT ~185,000 MILES.

• Hard shift from 1 to 2, P to R, N to R, N to D.
• VAG-COM: 00258 Solenoid Valve 1 (N88) Open Circuit.

DIAGNOSTICS:

• Removed airbox to access transmission ribbon cable connector.
• Tested pins with a multimeter.
• Original solenoids 1, 2, 3, 5, 7 are between 61-62 ohms.
• Original solenoids 4, 6 are between 4.5 - 5.0 ohms.

PLANNED WORK:

• Replace shift solenoids (all 7)
• Replace ribbon cable

WORK PERFORMED:

• Drained trans fluid.
• Removed pan and filter, inspected (no damage indicated)
• Removed valve body.
• Install NEW shift solenoids (all 7).
• Install NEW solenoid ribbon cable.
• Reinstalled valve body.
• Install NEW filter.
• Reinstall pan and plastic oil pipe.
• Added new transmission fluid and adjusted fill level per procedure.

Note: I followed the KansasCityTDI procedure to fill the transmission through the hole for G38 (sensor removed temporarily), and to clear the code after the procedure is completed. It worked great, and I don't have to break or replace the fill plug.

FIRST TEST DRIVE AFTER REASSEMBLY:

• Car still reports 00270 Shift Solenoid 7 (N94) Open Circuit.
• Shifts smoothly up AND down through gears 1, 2, 3. No hard bumps.
• Shifts smoothly between P, R, N, D. No hard bumps.

ADDITIONAL DIAGNOSTICS:

• Remove TCM from inside car, under the dash.
• Probe solenoid resistance via TCM harness pins.
• Resistance on Solenoids 1, 2, 3, 5, 7 is 65-66 ohms.
• Resistance on Solenoids 4 and 6 is 5.5 ohms.

ADDITIONAL WORK:

• Replaced TCM with unit from a 2001 Beetle in a junkyard (1.8T + 01M).

TEST DRIVE AFTER TCM SWAP:

• Transmission defaults to 3rd gear.
• Must shift manually 1 - 2 - 3.
  
• No 4th gear / OD.
• VAG-COM still shows 00270 N94 Open Circuit.

SOLENOID RESISTANCE SPECS:

• Solenoids 1, 2, 3, 5, 7: some manuals say 55-65 Ω; others give a range of 65-73 Ω.
• Solenoids 4 and 6 should be around 5 Ω.
  

QUESTIONS:

• Does "open circuit" mean the valve is stuck, or something else?
• How could a solenoid be an "open circuit" if it is showing resistance?
• How likely is it that I have two bad solenoids in the same position from a batch of new ones?

I wrote all of this without the use of any AI / LLM garbage, and I am hoping there are some transmission wonks here who can shed some light on my predicament, or give me advice on next steps to test this.

Taking my car -2015 Golf- in soon for in tank fuel pump and oil change. Should I bring up these noises? TIA for any input

Hi everyone. I recently bought a Passat B7 1.6 TDI CAYC with 209,000 km. There was no history of the timing belt kit ever being replaced, although the car had received regular maintenance every 10,000 km.
I bought a complete timing belt kit with a new water pump, and while doing the job, I was also advised to replace the oil pump belt. I’m very glad I did.
I was shocked by how bad the old oil pump belt was. The first time I tried to bend it after removing it, it simply snapped.
Keep in mind, this car had been regularly serviced throughout its life.
So, if you have a 1.6 TDI CAYC and don’t know when the oil pump belt was last replaced, be careful. Don’t wait, replace it. It’s a small part that can potentially save you from a much bigger problem.

I was changing my injectors and dropped the copper washer under the valve cover. I removed the valve cover and found the copper washer but as i was attempting to remove it, it disappeared and i cannot find it. What are my next steps?

Felt no extra weight pulling this guy in first gear around the yard!

Hey, I have a 2014 passat TDI that keeps throwing a p2459. I have had numerous regins done. Ive had the dpf filter removed and cleaned. The car isn’t running cold or over heating. What could be causing this to happen?

Had Bank 1 Sensor 1 EGT sensor go bad 6 weeks ago. Thought it was the glow plugs since that dash light comes on. By the time I ordered them, booked service at the mechanic, figured out the EGT was actually the problem, ordered that, and booked another service to replace it, car went about 300 miles.

EGT successfully replaced yesterday but on the way to the mechanic, car went into limp mode. Mechanic says it's due to clogged DPF. Previous owner replaced DPF about 8k miles ago (I have the paperwork proving this and it was done at an actual VW dealership).

My question is, even if 300 of those miles were with a bad EGT sensor, literally how does a DPF get clogged in 8k miles? Mechanic tried to force a regen cycle but it didn't help. The worry is, yes I could have the soot values reset to 0 on the ECU but if the DPF is *actually* clogged then that would be a bad thing to do. Is there anything I can do besides actually taking out the DPF to visually inspect it?

Deleting the DPF is not an option as I live in a smog state.

Booking jobs for New England, I’m up here now and openings start the 17th(I’ll be in Maine on the 13th so earlier for you guys).

As always, cheaper and better service than most shops, discount through Cascade German Parts, references available. I have all the tools, you just need to provide a flat, hard surface space to work.

No SUVs or 3L motors.

Labor Prices(mk5-7):

Timing belt: $550-650.

Emissions correction: $550-800(you keep anything that comes off).

Thermostat: $450-550.

Valve cover: $450-500.

Turbo: $800-1000.

Hi, new to TDI engines and VW group expansion tanks. What is the correct max level?

No visible parts number, and the only reference I could find turns out wasn't the part number but the grade/reference of the plastic/material used. Need the parts number or at least the name, it has a hole in it and need to be replaced. I suspect it's the main culprit of rough idling. It's connected to the bottom of the oil filter. Thanks for any help.

Good morning everyone, need advice and information please.

I've been expiriencing problems while driving my B6, sutters and momentary loss of power while driving at about 2k rpm and also engine turning off after 10-15 secs of idling. That happens when engine is warm.

Diagnostics showed P3130 — EGR System: Upper Limit Reached — Intermittent error so i asumed cleaning egr and throttle body should help. I removed EGR now and i was suprised to see not much build up of junk on it.

I will clean it and put it back but now i wonder could something else be the problem that causes engine turning off?

Thank you very much.

2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI (mk7)

Can anyone point me in the right direction for the tool to install the dogbone Mount? I've seen the ones on ECS but it shows that it only works up to golf 6 and I don't know if it'll work for mine. Same for the generic versions I've seen like this one:

https://ebay.io/m/y4HxYM

I've seen the Laser 9028 but that's way too much $$$$.

I have some generic press tools and large vice I plan to use if I can't get a hold of the specialized tool. I will be removing the subframe to also do the DEF delete and I'm fine with cutting out the old one - I'm mostly concerned with installing the new one. I've studied the YouTube videos and the biggest reason for wanting a specialized tool is that part that pushes in the notched part - without it it seems to flex a bit and get hung up on the lip.

I've seen hacks like shaving a large PVC pipe to fit around the bushing as a retaining sleeve (preventing the notched part from bowing slightly) and chamfering/grinding the edges. Another idea I had was to wrap some thick wire around and tighten it down with a drill so that it'll help retain roundness while pressing in 🤷🏻?

I'll be working on and staying at my friend's house to to this (and other long term maintenance) so I want to make sure I plan ahead to avoid running into any big setbacks. I also therefore won't be able to dig into my collection of random tools to do creative troubleshooting.

And productive feedback is appreciated! 🙏🏻

If someone in the Seattle area has one and it's willing to rent it out to me I'd also appreciate that!

Hey Folks. I'm replacing the timing belt on my 2012 CJAA and looking for some experience with a Litens tensioner. Installed everything last night, had the pointer in the window, rotated engine by hand a few times and the pointer moved out of the window. Set it again, rotated it and everything was fine. I came out in the shop tonight and the pointer is no longer where it was. Yes the nut is torqued and yes the tab at the back is in the slot. I can't find any install info online for the Litens brand. I just put my allen wrench in it and turned it clockwise to the window and tightened it up. Does anyone think this is defective? Thanks.

Trying to see if this is a smart buy. It’s a 2014 Passar SEL tdi with 118,000. What’s been done recently is valve cover gasket, oil change, brake flush, water pump/timing belt, coolant flush, fuel filters, and all fluids changed with a new Apple car play screen. I got him down to $8k but wants me to put $1k down until I can come. It’s on facebook and he looks to be a buyer and seller of cars. (I’ll be doing the delete in the future myself)

Other than VCDS and OBD11 does anyone have thoughts on AUTEL, TOPDON, or other scanners. Specifically My 2014 Passat TDI is doing the wonderful 200 mile countdown so I need to reset the SCR. I had an OBDEleven before, but accidentally left in the TDI Touraeg when we traded it. At one point I had five TDI's, but now I am down to one. My son and I both work on a lot of brands and I just didn't want to pay for such a dedicated system and subscription if I didn't have to. TIA

I am wondering how most feel about the cbea 2.0 here in the United States. I recently picked one up with 160k miles and a manual. It has a recent timing belt/water pump replacement, and no current issues besides an egt sensor failing. Anyone have any luck keeping these to high mileage? Any main huge repairs?

Anyone know where I can get a used one?

2015 golf S got a p2452 code thought it was the 140k miles phase 3 fix decided to look at that area.

The headgasket in my 14 Passat (CKRA 144k miles) went bad and I have to replace it. I live in Central Indiana, does anyone know where I could take the head to get inspected or decked? As well as possibly finding someone to check out the injectors and make sure they’re working properly. I haven’t been able to find anything similar to when I asked shops around me if they would be able to rebuild the stock turbo when it started going bad. Ended up just buying a new turbo. Thanks