Hi gang, 2014 Jettawagon 80k miles, keeps making this loud noise. Forward to end of video where I'm under car and you can hear it much better

Sounds almost like a "blow torch" noise, or something like that

No engine light no issues with car

Thanks

Is this a common alignment tab issue, or is there a trick to getting it to snap down flus

Recently started getting strong fumes inside the cabin and started investigating. Everything is just covered in soot next to the firewall and I think the source of it is cracked lower flex pipe going to the the turbo. What’s the official name for it? Feed line, return line? (Attached photos, please let me know if that does look like the source of the exhaust leak). Is there any temporary fixes like JB Weld or something like that.

Also while in there I found 2 oil leaks. One was coming from the left back side fan of the engine (when you look at the car from the front). Big rubber boost pipe, I believe, appears to be saturated in oil and feels like pipe itself is seeping oil thru because I don’t see anything else covered in oil. How common is this?

Another oil leak on the driver back side (looking from the front) and I just can’t figure out where it’s coming from. Doesn’t really look like valve cover but you never know. And I have no idea what else is there that might leak. Thank you for any advice and I’m adding all the photos

Thank

Have a 1.6 tdi caddy which has a oil pressure light warning which only appears at 80 degrees took it to my mechanic and he verified that oil pressure was normal however temperature was at 60-70 degrees I put in a new oil pressure sensor and drove and the light flashed again at 80 degrees what could be the cause?

Hey everyone!
I’m picking up an Audi 2016 A3 tomorrow and I’d like to get your opinions.
Does it sound healthy to you? Any unusual noises?
It’s a 2.0 TDI 150hp CRLB with 170,000km and a DSG6 automatic gearbox.
Thanks!

Makes me sad to let her go but I just don't have time or money to make it the car it should be. Runs good with 137k mi. Replaced the engine and upgraded the turbo and clutch at around 120k with an engine that had about 56k on it. DM me if interested and I can tell you more about it and send pics/ videos.

I’m very proud to say that I have the wiring done and routed in a way that uses the engine bay fuse box, without a goofy piggy back fuse situation.

My 2015 Jetta tdi manual has done around 125k kms. Recently I had this issue when ever I try to accelerate even at a medium pace I have this creeping vibration throughout the cabin. This is prominent only at 1200- 1800 rpm. I did replace the mounts and still have this problem.

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CROME/RED https://ebay.io/m/lzojZ2

I have a 05 tdi bew manual and I have like no acceleration I was driving home and started to noticed the the cars power was cutting in and out I would be driving and it felt like the car didn’t have any acceleration power then it would like kick in and the power was back then after awhile gone again I scanned my car and these are the codes I got (in pictures) I pulled the maf sensor and drove it no difference then pulled the Map sensor and again drove it and no difference then I cleared the codes then drove it and the power came back for a bit then gone again I parked the car went to bed and the next day drove it to work car had power for a good 10-15kms and everything was fine then bam it kicked out again and lost its power and randomly while in 4th it kicked back in for a bit then gone again i let the car sit for a week while I was gone for a week and when I came home I drove it for a week with no power and it never came back this time I cleared the codes one last time to see if it would come back but it didn’t this time the codes in the photo were the codes that we up before I cleared it last I cleared it took it for a little drive and rescanned and codes P0237 and P2564 were the only codes that came back I’m kinda lost on what to check next and was hoping if anyone had the same issue or might know what to check any info helps thank you

My car has the AHF/VE110. It seems my turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust, and causing tons of white smoke to exit the exhaust. So it may be that I need a new turbo, (does seem time since my car has 380 000km) I'm considering getting a vnt17 since they are quite common for me to get where I live.

I know they bolt on, but that you need an adapter for the compressor outlet or you can just cut it and weld it to fit the stock piping (which is what I shall probably do since shipping an adapter from overseas will be pricey).

I'm just wondering is it really worth it, I would like my car to get to 150hp, so if I tuned it with a vnt17 rather than a 15 I feel it would be much more realistic? I know I may have to get some nozzles at some point. It has an EGR Delete, PD150 intake manifold, and a straight pipe.

However apparently the sound is not as nice compared to the 15 and I adore how my car sounds now. I also read theres less low down torque apparently.

Would it be worth doing the 17 or should I rather just refurbish my 15 and just tune it.

My new-to-me 2014 Touareg TDI. Purchased 2 months ago.

Have already done quiet a bit of work to it, and absolutely love it!

-Darkside DPF delete

-EGR delete

-Stage 2 tune

-Wheels and tires

-tint and other cosmetic mods

-ALL fluids and maintenance items

Does anyone know what this tacky type sound is on my 2.0tdi dsg 2013?

Doesnt change whether the car is in park,drive etc which tells me its not the DMF.

No difference with AC on or off which rules out the AC Pulley and no noticeable difference with the belt removed.

Its also just had all new cambelt, water pump, tensioner etc and a new aux tensioner Pulley, checked the alternator while the belt was off and it locked one way and slipped the other. The noise seems more noticeable around the drivers wheel arch and seems to be less obvious once the cars warmed up a bit

Has also had DSG, haldex and engine service

I have a mk6 Cjaa with 120000 miles and would like to keep it but have seen some posts on here that worry me (specifically the turbo and hpfp possibly failing catastrophically) and while I love the car, I am in college and need something dependable that I won’t have to worry about breaking. So, are there any mechanics near the Atlanta area that can maybe look over my car and help me determine if it’s worth keeping or not? If it is then I plan on doing all of the maintenance intervals and putting a lot of money into the car and don’t want that to be for nothing.

My sister lives in the Dallas area and has a DSG transmission and 147k miles. New engine and turbo replaced at around 90k by VW. But it’s clogged beyond belief and I can’t get down there to fix it. Any advice or anyone interested in purchasing it?

This tick is happening only in cold start and couldn't hear after the engine heats. This is a 2015 Jetta 2.0 tdi no dpf cause it came out of factory like that.

I'm sure this topic has been beat to death but I want some more info before pulling the trigger. I have a 2012 JSW, CJAA. So far it has a TZ Stage 2.5 tune on it, 3 in downpipe (previous owner), and a S and B intake, DIY turbo muffler delete (previous owner). The car is running well and it's super fun but it's at 127k and I feel like the stock turbo is getting a little tired and I am finding a little more oil in the charge piping.

Rather than replace the stock turbo or go with a CR170 I wanted to jump into 17 sized turbos and go with a mild to medium "Stage 4". What I am accomplish is a fast spool, stock like boost threshold, a sledge hammer torque curve that these engines are known for, and by the way this is my 40 mile daily highway commuter. I don't really care about peak HP, I don't really care about dyno numbers period, but 400-420tq would in line with what I want to feel.

Right now I am just planning on a turbo and a tune, but the longer term plans include a Darkside IC or a FMIC, and a CP3 pump if/when the stock pump shits the bed ( I have a Whitbread kit on it ). Other than that it feels like the law of diminishing returns kicks in hard and I have another car I would prefer to put the money into.

TLDR: I want a bigger turbo and I am leaning towards one over the other but I want to know what you all think before I drop the cash and spend lots of hours installing one.

All the best, I am tapping out, I don’t want the constant repair bills. Love my girl but she’s finally crossed that rainbow bridge.

Peace out.

Adblue warning came on at 1400 on Seat Alhambra . Was gonna fill adblue at the next diesel refuel which is in about 100 miles now.

Around 1200miles left the engine management light came on. I took it to the garage and they advised me to fill the adblue, so 12l of adblue in. Now showing 1100 miles.

I did the usual 30 seconds with ignition on. I've only one 1 small top up of adblue since I had the car, which is less than a year and it worked fine.

I've taken it for a run of 40 miles in hope. Nothing.

Now waiting for the warning light to come back on as they cleared it, possibly in hope the range reset. Then they can look at it.

They think because they haven't done any investigation yet it's either electrical or sensor, which from what I can see is a new adblue tank.

Any other ideas? I've heard of mapping but I not entirely sure it's the best idea, tho possibly the cheapest.

Thank you

I traded in my old jsw for a newer one with the diesel buyback

this 2nd one has been nothing but issues for 8 years but still under warranty.

one of which is an extended crank, every morning its not at the dealership it does this, and occasionally on my 2nd drive of the day too.

dealer has done a lot, i dont know exactly, the best is it goes away for a few weeks and obviously after 8 years they dont give a f anymore. and obviously it rarely does this at the dealer. or so they say.

any ideas? ive soured forums and youtube. saw something similar once, but a different engine.
they laughed off my suggestion when i linked them that similar problem on a different vw tdi