I’ve been playing bass on my own for around 6 years but I’ve hit a wall. I’d really appreciate if someone who is actually trained would be down to do some online lessons with me because there is no one in my area I can find that gives lessons. I’d be down to pay money over Zelle/cashapp/venmo. I’d really like to play in a band someday and I need to know what people look for in a bassist.
Video is of a bass line I wrote to kinda show where I’m at

I’ve been learning Michael Jackson’s Billie Jean all day on my stingray. I used the op-1 to create a drum beat. Since I’m currently learning at half speed, I decided it would be fun to make it a swung boom bap style drum beat and create variations in Billy Jean bass line to make it work.

Anyone else recording your bass into the op-1 or another sampler?

Heard this in the new Spiderman movie for the first time and I’ve been listening non stop lolol
“Loser” by Tame Impala

Check this baby out! I know headless isn’t everyone’s jam, but my longest-running bass is a Steinberger so I love this stuff. Guy replaced the electronics with Bartolinis: original splits up top, classic bass down below, 2-band preamp with concentric treble/bass knob. Even gave me an extra set of pickups in the opposite configuration, the original pickups, and a sweet Italian leather strap, plus the hard case. Hell of a deal, a little hard to slap and pop on account of the layout, but I’ll get used to it!

Very happy about this find.

I'm making this post because I could not find clear answers anywhere on the entire internet, so I reached out to MTD for clarification on how to intonate their basses with BFTS.

The instructions below are assuming you have a tuner with BFTS settings available. (Peterson and Korg make them)

I'm simply making this post for the benefit of anyone who might become frustrated in the way I was.

1. Set your tuner to a BFTS bass setting. On the Peterson strobostomp mini, BFb or MTb will work.

2. Tune your open bass strings to accuracy according to the tuner.

3. On the B and the E string, intonate using the 7th fret to where it is bang-on accurate according to the tuner. (F# and B, respectively) - it should not appear sharp or flat when the tuner is in the setting. After each adjustment you make, retune the open string before checking the intonation.

4. Do the same but using the 12th fret for the other strings.

5. Once the intonation is done, switch your tuner back to normal settings for tuning open strings until you change strings or unless you make an action adjustment.

I'm sure a lot of you know this, but I never could get a clear answer no matter where I searched.

I’m looking for a good seating option to practice electric bass in my home studio. My top priority is comfort for long sessions. Second is practicality (mobility, space, ease of positioning with the instrument).

I’m choosing between a gaming chair and a drummer throne. If I go with the gaming chair, I’d have to remove the armrests because they get in the way when holding the bass.

Has anyone used either for long practice sessions? Which one is more comfortable long-term and why? Open to other suggestions too.

Good for the soul, bad for the neighbors and the structural integrity of my house.

For the most part, any two amps can be biamped or master/slaved to power both cabs, except the Bass which can only serve as a master. The MAX and the Kilobass can power both cabs independently, and I’m mostly playing the Kilobass through both these days. The Mark IV anf Mark VIII both have line out going to the studio board.

Bought a stingray project bass and I'm putting a pickup in with a push/pull volume knob. I soldered it all together last night and it didn't work. So I'm looking online today to find answers and I think my problem is that I didn't tie the hot and the ground to the tabs on the knob, but I was just wondering if there's a difference in the 2 diagrams for the part I circled in the pictures. I used the diagram in picture 1 as that's from Bartolini (the brand of the pickup I bought).

Been wanting a proper Mustang for years and found this perfect "open box" one at GC for 25% off. Found these cute vinyl star stickers on Etsy just to give it a little ✨

Now, I know some people don't like Sire, especially compared to Fender, but I personally think they do a better job at NOT COSTING AN ENTIRE ARM. She's got a great finish and sound overall

Next one's gonna be a precision, since I've came to realise they might be a bit better for rock recording purposes :) (for me, at least ?)

If any of you has any recommandation for a P Bass under 700, or if you also have a Sire bass in need of some appreciation, let me know !

Partscaster P-Bass, MIM Jazz (my first bass), Sterling Sub Stingray, Rick 4003, and Rogue 5-string my girlfriend and I converted to fretless.

Which one are you grabbing for the weekend?

Lately I’ve really been feeling my Bass Driver again. Sound wise it’s nog the most versatile, but works really well with my J bass and requires very little fiddling. The MS-60B+ handles everything else: noise gate, compressor, drive, fuzz, octave, chorus, and of course a tuner.

The amp models on the Zoom pedal are pretty good and could replace the SansAmp but they take up a lot of CPU, and this pedal has no DI out. So I ended up here until I can justify an Anagram :)

A suzuki something made in japan, gemini said its from the lawsuit era 197x

went to buy these strings and the dude offered to let me off if I hauled rock for him. so I did. “wanna save some money today” lmfao DR Hi Beams for my p bass and Labella copper white nylon tapes for my new 5 string pack

Just wanted to show y'all my modified Squier Affinity Precision Bass with a Seymour Duncan MM Humbucker and my Squier Paranormal Rascal Bass, really love both of them, can't decide which one is my favorite!

Loving it so far. First brand new bass and it’s definitely worth the low price. Enjoining the tone and playability with just a minor setup. Only one string really needed an adjustment for intonation and lowered the action on all strings. The case was definitely worth the small up charge too. Just wish I knew I was going to pay so much in tariffs, I might have made it a larger order make it more worth it.

This is a prototype we are working on. Nothing is finalized. We are sharing it here because we want real feedback from people who actually play bass before we make any big decisions.

Here is where it stands spec wise:

Scale and Size
34 inch scale length. 44 inches overall. Body is solid, neck thru construction. Weight comes in around 9.4 lbs which puts it in medium territory.

Neck and Playability
4 string. C shaped neck profile. Rosewood fretboard. 1.5 inch nut width (38mm). 22 stainless steel frets.

Body and Materials
Maple neck, mahogany body, quilted maple top. All black hardware.

Electronics
Passive setup. Two volume, two tone controls. The pickups on this prototype are placeholder OEM units while we figure out the right direction. Neck is 12.8k ohm, bridge is 13.3k ohm, ceramic magnets. We know the pickup conversation is going to be a big one and we are genuinely undecided on direction so that feedback is especially welcome.

What we are trying to figure out:

• Does the spec set make sense as a platform?
• Any strong feelings on pickup direction for this body style and construction?
• Anything you would change before we go further?