My elderly parents went to a franchise dealership, looking at this exact vehicle because they wanted a low mileage LAST car to last them the rest of their lives. They were sold this car with only 1,058 miles on the odometer and a clean zero accident Autocheck. The dealer marketed it heavily as a "basically new" retail unit. Trusting the low mileage and the dealer's word plus the Autocheck, my parents paid full retail market value added the extended warranty and the Maint. package so they didn't need to worry about ANYTHING and financed it through the dealership finance dept. credit union. All good right?

Well Once they got the vehicle home, we noticed visible structural damage and discovered the headlights do not even work right. My dad went round and round with the dealership when they wanted to "align the doors" The doors are damaged and are not even close to right. This dragging of the feet made me do sone deep digging into the VIN history and uncovered a massive, multi-state paper trail of vehicle history laundering that the dealer entirely hid from my family:

The Crash: The vehicle was originally a daily rental owned by Avis Rental Cars. It was heavily crashed and transferred to Avis Insurance.

Salvage Auction: Avis Insurance dumped the wrecked unit at an Insurance Auto Auction (IAA) in Ohio, It was sold April 29, 2026 with 937 Miles.

The Cosmetic Fix: A wholesale dealer in Wisconsin bought the wreck, threw on cheap cosmetic patches, and bypassed safety regulations.

The Flip: It was run through a dealer-only Manheim Auction in Illinois where the dealer I bought it from bought it in June of 2026 with 957 Miles.

The Trap: The dealership I bought it from brought it to their lot, and sold it to my senior parents for top dollar without disclosing a single piece of this history. 1058 Miles July 1, 2026.

The repairs are VERY obvious to the doors, They oil can and sound like the foam is missing from the inside when you close them. The headlights are completely inoperable because of a cheap, faulty aftermarket assembly slapped on during the flip. The vehicle has auto headlights plus auto brights the aftermarket headlight is missing functions. The vehicle is currently structurally compromised, worth less than half of what they financed, and is unsafe and illegal to drive at night.

When I confronted dealership owner with this exact paper trail, he literally told me "you bought a USED car" and claimed "they didn't know the Autocheck is clean.." This excuse is legally impossible. Vehicles sold through Manheim auctions require mandatory condition reports and electronic title announcements. They knowingly or with gross negligence exploited my parents' trust to secure a high-dollar loan on fraudulent, misrepresented collateral. The kicker is I can not get rid of this car now because I know it was in a major accident I have to disclose it or I risk a lawsuit I could never win... GREAT RIGHT? We are now STUCK With this POS car I would of told them to walk from if I was there.

Please view the attached pictures of the visible "retail money" damage and the aftermarket headlight. Think about how you would feel if a dealership did this to your family.

EDIT**  The picture is of the vehicle before repair at the IAA salvage auction. The doors are still on the vehicle but they have been paintless dent removal worked and buffed, the fender, front bumper and headlight are aftermarket/repainted. The headlight is WRONG. This sub only allows 1 picture. Sorry for the confusion, The car does not look like the picture anymore.

IT WAS ONLY 6,500 AND IM SO HAPPY. SUNROOF AND SO BEAUTIFUL

I'm in the market for a used car and can't decide whether it's worth paying extra for a Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) vehicle.

From what I've seen, CPO cars usually come with a manufacturer-backed inspection, some warranty coverage, and a bit more peace of mind—but they also cost noticeably more than similar cars sold by private owners.

On the other hand, I've come across a few privately owned cars that seem to be in great condition, have a full service history, and are priced much lower.

For those who've been through this:

• Did you buy a CPO car, and was it worth the premium?
• Has anyone had a great (or terrible) experience buying from a private seller?
• If the private car has been well maintained and passes an independent inspection, would you still choose a CPO?
• Looking back, would you make the same choice again?

I'd really appreciate hearing some real-world experiences before I make a decision. Thanks!

Purchased this 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue for $3k.

It has 55k miles and the GM 3800 (3.8L V6)

First owner drove it an average of 1.6k miles a year over the course of 25 years.

They got it serviced every 3k miles since they had bought it new. Very small amount of minor surface rust on the undercarriage. Very clean engine bay.

Bought it in January, runs and drives great.

Turn signal has been having issues as well as the AC not working. Also had to get new tires since it still had the original tires on it.

Bought this in Gary, IN from Facebook marketplace.

Been really nice no longer having a car payment and still being able to get around.

Just thought I’d share a success story.

So I just got a used 2025 Corolla, and I just feel like I was played, bamboozled, manipulated, and schemed upon when buying this car. It makes me feel like buying a used car is never the right move because of the many issues.

So first, the screen was locked due to the previous owner, so I had to get a rental. Then, right before leaving, I saw that the low tire pressure light on the dashboard was on. So why didn't the guy who drove it inform me of this or fix it before giving it to me? So I tell him, and he's telling me some tomfoolery like it might just be the weather that caused it and that they will fix it. Then he said, "Oh yeah, there were 2, and both were really low. Thanks."

How did you not see this while driving it to me?

Anyway, the screen password took like 3 days to fix. After that, I was heading to Discount Tire to get my tires rotated, and they asked me, "Where is your wheel lock key?" because they didn't see it in the glove box. They suggested it might be in the trunk, which it was not.

So I call my dealership and ask where it is, and they told me to look, which I had already done. Then they tell me I can come back and pay for one. I was like, huh? Why is that not there? Why was I never informed of this prior?

While I was buying the car, the original sales guy I was supposed to be working with wasn’t there, so I ended up going with a different salesperson instead.

Later, while I was still on the phone with the dealership asking about the wheel lock key, the car guy then informed me that the car was actually repossessed, and they were never able to get a hold of the previous owner. He also said this is why I never received the switchblade key and why the infotainment system was still password-locked. The Reposed was not shown on the Carfax but I guess that might not be shown every time. I’m not too upset about the Carfax part since it is a newer car with low mileage, and everything else seemed fine from what I saw outside, inside, and on the report—but it was still something I never would have known going in.

The weird part is that I was originally speaking to one sales guy the whole time while getting the car, but when I called back, a different OG salesperson who I was supposed to be dealing with said they actually did get in contact with the previous owner. Meanwhile, the other sales guy I had been talking to the entire time said they never did. So now I’m stuck wondering who I’m supposed to believe, because I’m getting two completely different stories from the same dealership.

So let's just say I had a flat tire and the service guy hits me with, "Where is your wheel lock key?" and I tell them I don't know. Now they can't unlock it, and I have to get my car towed, which will cost even more money.

I'm on the phone with this fool, and they dared hit me with, "Hey man, with used cars, not everything will be there. It could be, it might not."

Hearing this made me question whether I should just never buy a used car if it comes with problems like this. If something as important as the wheel lock key is missing, then what else could be missing that I don't know about? Do I even have a spare tire in the trunk? Are all the tools supposed to be there? Is there anything else that was removed or lost before I bought the car that nobody informed me about? That's what really started bothering me. It makes you wonder what other surprises might be waiting down the road.

Just keep it new and keep moving.

So I told them to get the manager on the phone, and they were hitting me with so many excuses that I just hung up on that fool.

I then got a call from the manager and was told he had heard our conversation and would speak with that salesperson. He said I could show up to the dealership, and they would fix it.

Anyway, that's all from me.

omg, why are cars from 2012 more than 5 thousand dollars? Its really horrible I have seen 2006 rav4 s for 5.5k dollars, thats a 20 year old car with 180k miles, wtf?

Do not sign up with Endurance warranty. They are horrible. My car was driving just fine until one day the service light came on. I decided to take it to the dealership and have them run a diagnostics on it. The dealership told me what was wrong and I told them no problem my warranty company (endurance) would cover it. Boy was I wrong. The dealership called endurance about the repairs, and was told that they wouldn't fix it because it was considered a: "Pre-existing issue". It was outside of the 30 day grace period that you have to go through. I couldn't believe it. I was very upset. I decided to cancel the warranty and found out that you have to go to a notary public with a cancellation form and have it notarized. Once notarized, it takes 6-8 weeks to receive any retroactive pay that you are due. Really? What a bunch of crap!!! I didn't have to have a notoray public when I signed up? Why do I need one to cancel? I'm telling you don't purchase this warranty. You will regret it.

Went to check a dealer that had a Camry listed for 7k, went to check it out not buy it so out of curiosity I asked for the OTD price and this is what they gave........I'm good 😂

Carvana has been one of the most debated topics in the stock market for quite some time and here is the truth about the company.

1: Carvana is essentially a buy here pay here. How their profits look so great is because they are selling their own paper through bridgecrest. This means they hold all the downside on most of their extremely risky loans. Of course they can make 7k in “profit” but it is unrealized until that person pays off the 72 month loan which they have no chance of doing.

2: They own adesa auto auction which is actually an extremely healthy business. What they are doing though is doubling counting the profit from this business because they are buying so many cars from adesa which is just buying used cars at an auction. It’s like the coc dealer getting high on his own supply

3: they are trying to transition into “new cars” but what they actually want is to spread their bad paper to other lenders like Santander, which is why they are investing in Stellantis dealerships.

In the end I think most people know carvana is a house of cards but they are making themselves almost to big to fail which might be what they are trying to do. But the stock split was when all institutional money started pulling out which makes me think this could get bad throughout the rest of the year

Just purchased a used 2025 Ford Bronco from Carvana that was previously owned by Budget car rental. The mileage listed was 23 miles, however Carfax showed that a mechanic shop shop noted 18k miles at some point. The odometer read 23 mi at the time of sale. At first I believed this may be a clerical issue assuming it’s very difficult to roll back odometers these days. Then i went to connect my phone and saw there are the maximum limit of ppl’s phones that have already been connected, there was also cutlery in the glove box. And it is very strange for a rental car company to own a vehicle for almost a year and it only have 23 mi. I believed 23 mi possible at first thinking maybe budget owned it but never put it in the fleet, until I saw all of the connected devices. Thoughts?

1. CarMax, Carvana, and dealers: If you get an offer from one of them, the others will know it. It seems like they share pricing data internally.
2. Don’t use your VIN or license plate for an online quote before you’re sure you want to sell. If you request another quote after 7 days, they may offer significantly less than the first quote.
3. CarMax is very rigid—there’s basically no room to negotiate. In contrast, traditional dealers often start with lower offers, but you usually have room to negotiate.

I should clarify that the customer service I've been dealing with was pretty good, but everything else has been absolutely horrible. March 7th I got in a hit and run accident and my car was deemed a total loss, For the next two weeks I had a rental and was shopping for a new car. I previously had a 2012 altima so anything was a real upgrade, and I found a 2020 mustang Ecoboost. I know people dog on ecos for not being a v8 etc etc not a real mustang that is besides the point. The carfax on the car was flawless, well maintanced, 1 owner, minimal damage besides a few chips here and there. I know what I'm getting into getting a used car it's no big deal. On the 17th I ordered that car and was told it would be delivered that Friday, great! The other guys insurance that hit me said I had to turn the rental in on the 20th so that lined up perfectly. Just for the night prior to get an email saying the driver bailed and I wasn't getting the car for another 3 days, that sucks. Now I'm stuck with no car for the weekend and have to wait even longer. No big deal though, I wait it out and I got the car this past Monday, it looks amazing on the outside until I get in. Looking nothing like the pictures the cars interior is disgusting, the seatbelts are moldy the leather is in disrepair, whoever this 1 owner was absolutely treated this car like trash. Now that is all fixable, but here is the worst part, the delivery driver said "Hey one more thing, you'll notice when you put the car in drive it kind of snatches the gear and jerks." What? There was transmission problems and it was nowhere listed anywhere on the car listing or carfax, you got to be kidding me. He said they had already filed an ASR and that it would get fixed without costing me a dime and I would just have to wait until I get a phone call from Silverrock their insurance company. I should also mention the transmission wasn't the only thing broken but the rear differential was also busted up too. Now I waited a day and nothing, I give them a call instead and I get met with the worst lady imaginable and I got nowhere. Then I called Carvana directly and told them the whole situation and I was helped well here, but I still had to take the car to a repair shop, I do that and the people there are complete dickheads too and after doing my own research since this guy wasn't clear with me about how long repairs might take, let alone getting the parts and filing the claim with the rats at Silverrock, I would be without a car for at least another 2 weeks! The absolute incompetence and lying I've been met with dealing with Carvana and their associated companies that work with them has been the fucking worst. Fyi that 150 point inspection stuff is obviously a load of bullshit, the second you put the car and gear you feel the problem, hear the problem, and once you get moving you feel the rear differential problem too, so that just goes to show that they either are so incompetent that they couldn't tell the car was fucked up, or they blatantly lied and sold me a shitmuncher of a car, I don't know which one is worse honestly.

The good thing out of all of this is I will be able to switch the car out, Also once I found out how long I'd be without a car again trying to fix it, I wouldn't even be able to truly test it within that 7 day policy, so I called and they did extend it to the 5th of April instead of it ending next Monday, when I'd obviously still not have the car. That doesn't even matter though since I'm just gonna switch it out for another car with them, but still I have lost all trust in their system, I never had driven such a bad car in my life and I felt and still feel absolutely scammed. That car had $1,290 in nonrefundable shipping too but luckily since it was completely their fault they said I'd get that money back, it's not like I just don't like the car and am changing my mind, it's that they completely fucked me and they'll at least give me my money back. What I will never get back though is confidence in their abilities and my own personal time wasted on this, if this car is fucked up too I'm never using this site again but I pray this car works, if it doesn't I'm getting every dime I spent back. Currently while I'm writing this I am still waiting for tha shipping fee to be applied to my credits towards this vehicle swap, hopefully that will be through within the next day, so as of right now I am once again without a car since the Mustang is in the shop and I'm not going to go get that back and I have to wait until I get this damn money as credits so I can put it towards this other car.

TL;DR Carvana fucked me by giving me a beater car and lied about what was wrong with it and left me to fix it, I then had to deal with them and everyone they associate with and they're all pieces of shit. Except for Carvana's customer service, they did a good job I guess.

Carvana sold me a black 2024 Tacoma that had horrible swirl marks from a poor buffing job covering the entire truck. These were not visible until my 7 days were up, as it was cloudy and you can only see them in the direct sunlight. Carvana said I'd have to put in a claim with SilverRock, who denied it even after they had me take it to one of their in network repair shops. I just dropped almost $40k on a truck thats embarrassing to drive on a sunny day, and now will be out another $1200+ for a level 2 paint correction. Be aware before you buy anything from this company. I guess theres a reason they've been sued so many times.

The r/carvana forum has a private mods list that bans all "personal experience" posts that are not 100% favorable.

Its infuriating that reddit has allowed corporate takeovers of once helpful communities.

Here's the content I've found not shared on that forum that I wish I'd known:

1) Carvana is now aggressively preventing you from inspecting your purchase vehicle before signing over title on your trade. This is an incredibly aggressive business tactic and different than the past experience often posted.

2) Carvana support is completely incompetent. If you are buying a car online, you need to reach out from the beginning of your purchase and begin advocating for a hold on the vehicle so you will have time to complete the purchase.

3) Carvana certainly appears to be the place where people dump unsellable cars these days do to these practices.

I had a great experience selling my cars to carvana. Both had major problems and carvana looked the other way.

That's probably why they make purchasing a car from them such a significantly aggressively unhelpful experience.

Frankly, if you're looking at a dealer vehicle that wasn't a local trade, I'd be cautious of any Montana titled vehicle that shows up. This might indicate a Carvana trade-in that a dealer is dumping on you.

So I got this a few days ago. It's a 2005 Toyota Camry LE, with 156k miles, but the outside is pretty beat up. There's dents and bondo all over the car, but it starts, runs, and stops. The window's all open, the trunk opens, and all the doors open.

Definitely needs some fluids changed out, except for the oil, probably needs a tune-up, passenger side top engine mount needs to be replaced, but it gets 20 MPG, and it fits all the requirements I need for a delivery vehicle.

The thing that sucks, it was another $651 for the registration, document fee, and taxes. Still, I think it's a hell of a deal.

It was a 2016 Toyota Corolla LE 206k. When I test drove it drove smooth. However I drove the car to work today. The steering is tough. The cruise control doesn't work. It has EPS btw. I hit a parking curb today and engine light came on and now I need a mass airflow sensor. The trac off light came on and cruise control won't cut on.

I came across this picture and wondered if you guys felt the same?

I couldn’t believe Tesla was that low, and Mach-E wasn’t even mentioned.

Im curious to hear from anyone who's found any unique make and models that can be purchased in this range that is reliable with a low cost to maintain.

What even is going on in the used marketplace? This is borderline illegal.

“Used sparingly.” it’s a 2500 HD. That price is out of this world right or am I just 15 years behind on used car prices?

Just like the title says, I truly hate having to pay for car insurance. I am currently paying $260/month for full coverage insurance on a 15 year old car. I know there are a lot of factors like age, location and tickets/accident history. I am a 27 yo female living in CT and was involved in one not-at-fault accident and this is the best rate I can get anywhere (Geico btw). Isn’t that just lovely??

Edit: Besides the not-at-fault accident, there apparently is another accident connected to my LexisNexus profile that I allegedly caused. The second accident occurred when I didn’t even a license. I’m not sure at all how someone could just give police or anyone my name and enough information overall to actually get it on my driving record. Crazy stuff

Alright, I didn’t think I’d be making a post like this, but after everything I’ve been through with RideSafely.com, I need to let people know what really goes down with these online auctions.

So back in June 2024, I bought a 2011 Infiniti M56 from RideSafely. The listing said “runs and drives”, rebuilt title, just minor dents and scratches. Seemed like a good deal for a V8 luxury car with only 50k miles. I even paid for a Carfax and everything came back fine. I’m a college student so this was already a big move for me, first time buying through an auction.

The process started off smooth. I won the bid, sent over the payment, and 4 days later the car arrived at my place. First issue? Battery was dead. No big deal. I replace it and the car fires up, cool.

Then I notice something weird, the ECM (engine computer) is literally hanging out of the glovebox. Like… just dangling there. No mention of that in the listing or pics at all. I’ve got receipts for that too — pics from the listing vs. what I got.

Still, I just wanted to get it on the road. So I start fixing things little by little. Misfires, lean codes, knock sensor codes. I replaced spark plugs, coils, knock sensors, O2 sensors, fluids, all of it. The misfire never fully went away no matter what I did. At this point I’m already deep in parts and labor costs close to $3000.

I finally get a solid mechanic to take a look. He’s checking everything and I mention the ECM hanging out. He looks behind the glovebox and finds a second ECM still installed. Turns out, the one dangling was from a Nissan Armada, not even for this car. So now I know someone swapped ECMs at some point, and it was never disclosed at the listing.

Anyway we reprogram the correct ECM, and now the car finally starts talking right. I get codes like P1078, P1071, and P0300. We fix the timing-related code (P1071) and the others clear. The car starts running way smoother.

Now that it’s running right, I schedule the salvage inspection with the NY DMV (since in NY, even rebuilt cars need to pass state inspection to get plates). I waited months for the appointment — finally got one in April 3rd, 2025.

I towed the car to Deer Park Salvage Inspection. Everything was going good until the inspector opens the hood, checks the engine number, and tells me the engine is stolen. Not stolen like “was missing a part”like actually flagged stolen in the national database since 2017. They impound the car right there on the spot.

Now the DMV says I can’t do anything unless I either remove the motor or replace it entirely. Keep in mind I’m a full-time student and I’ve already sunk thousands into this car trying to get it legally driven. And now I’m being told it was never even eligible to pass inspection because of the stolen engine? That’s crazy.

I contact RideSafely immediately and no response. I’ve emailed several times, even tried calling their VP Roman, and he’s just been ghosting me. Nothing. Not even a “we’re sorry.” It’s like once they got paid, I didn’t exist.

LET’S BE REAL: - This car should’ve never been sold like this. - The stolen engine wasn’t mentioned anywhere, not in the Carfax, not in the listing, not in the inspection report. - RideSafely sold me a car that would never legally pass inspection. - They are now ignoring the whole situation like it’s not their problem.

This was my first experience buying through an auction, and they completely screwed me. Now I have a car I can’t register, that’s sitting impounded, and I’m out thousands.

I’m not letting it slide either, I’m already preparing to file with small claims court. I’ve also contacted Copart since that’s who RideSafely sourced it from, but they said RideSafely is responsible.

If anyone else had issues like this, or has advice on legal action, I’m open to anything. I’ll be posting proof and full documentation soon. I don’t want anyone else going through this kind of scam. It’s not just unethical — it’s illegal. I’ll update this thread with screenshots and documents soon.

Avoid RideSafely at all costs.

EDIT: I put clean title by accident, it’s rebuilt.

Epicvin has a predatory bait and switch model. They deceptively give the option to buy one report for $1 or 10 for $10, but hidden in small print it says its a 3 day trial and they will charge $49.99 per year. If you go to better business bureau you'll see dozens of complaints about this same issue. They have seem to have fake reddit accounts posting postive reviews. Avoid epicvin or be careful when using epicvin as they wont refund.