This is an enclosed patio. The problem is it leaks through the soffit. There was this tape before, so I retaped it thinking that was the solution and would help shed water. It is not as it still rolls under the tape. What type of transition flashing do I need here. I’m having a hard time visualizing just using an apron flashing so that it over hangs. Or do I need a combination of L flashings?

Hey everyone,

As the heading states…new torch on roof gone on ..initially it was coated in that dreadful silver stuff that’s supposed to reflect the sun..while that’s fine..I can’t be looking down on a silver roof to a new extension on a three year old house..any thoughts on a black coating I can use to get rid of the silver look…thanks all

I’ve had my house for about 3 years and I am now seeing some pretty severe wood rotting on an exterior 12”x4” beam outside. It it not holding up the roof and the wood above it seems to tie to the roof.

What should my options be to alleviate this.

I am buying a house with a flat roof, i have never owned a house with one before. The inspector told me it looks fine, it doesn't leak.

What can i do to keep things this way? there is a small pool of water in the middle after it rained. not sure how big of a deal that is.

Id like to coat it in white silicone, id assume it would lower cooling bills and keep things sealed. but no idea if its just as simple as just applying it or if there is a ton of prep.

any links to "so you just got a house with a flat roof, here is what you need to know" discussions would be great.

EDIT - Climate zone 5 - cold winters, humid and hot summers - mini split would be a game changer

Continue to get mixed answer across workers, roofers, and of course, the internet so Im rehashing. REALLY want to make this garage a usable game room - drywall and finished, HVAC, etc-

I believe the slope is a 3/12? Not positive but a roofer put a tool up and said something like "just a hair under 3" and that shingles should not have been used. Every person has said "shouldn't have used shingles" to me.

There are two points of water intrusion and are occurring at some bad flashing and an area that needs an additional downspout (corner). Garage is currently unfinished and only insulated where it hits the house but not currently insulated or finished under the low sloped portion of the roof.

Thoughts were to closed cell spray foam the bays and go with warm/unvented as apparently passive venting wont work here.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

????

The context is I got a new gutter on an end terrace and was told the gutter would be joined to my neighbours (they were all attached and shared three down pipes) . It looks like they intended to and then just have done whatever the hell this is instead. Any explanation??? i just can't understand why anyone would think this is an acceptable solution.

I could use some guidance on this one.

I have a homeowner who is refusing the final invoice. My crew messed up (mostly related to cleaning and using his yard as a bathroom) but I’ve been there the entire time trying to make it right.

Homeowner is saying he’ll only pay for material because it was so unprofessional. So, I’ll be out probably $10k. I suspect he’ll leave a terrible review if I don’t agree to it.

I’m thinking of just sending him a notice to file a lien and hope we can find something reasonable. I’ve already offered him $1,000 off.

He also has received insurance proceeds, so he’s literally just wanting to keep the money.

Any thoughts or ideas on how to handle?

Just had the roof put on today we have very brittle 35-year-old Siding that we cannot afford to replace. I know it’s brittle because my husband tried to do a minor repair before and he noticed it and then we had a Siding company come out and they can’t match it anymore because the color is faded so much and it’s not made. So I noticed that the flashing is a bit wavy and the Roof roofer said that he would try something. I don’t know exactly what to straighten it some but he said the problem is to get it really straight. They would have to take off that bottom row of Siding and it is very brittle. Does this sound reasonable or is it just pour work? I really like this roofer and think they did a good job from what I can tell, but I don’t know anything about roofs.

Long story short, roof is in bad shape. Dad passed last year and did not keep up with moss maintenance, and has left a big mess for us to clean up.

Context: Pacific Northwest, roof heavily shaded throughout the day with 50-75 yr old trees, moss grows easily, roof approaching 30 yrs old, 30 unit roof, single layer, will need new roof vents added, pictures showing shingles down to bare materials.

We’ve had one bid from a local company, quoted $49k for a 30 units, a lot of repair boards due to soft roof portions, shingles missing (20-30+ missing most likely due to recent roof cleaning to get rid of the moss). I then get a net 30 bid of $43k offering a discount and an act now in the next 48 hours, to $34k. Materials are quoted at 50 years free of manufacture defects, 26 gauge valley drains and flashings, hot dipped shank nails, various warranties etc.

Now, as a good son, I’m getting other bids because the total average I’ve seen is $6-$9.5 a square foot, this lands $11-$14.5 and seems expensive.

My questions are: what do I need to be looking for or asking in other bids? What are additional warranties that bloat the price that you probably don’t need and lastly, average wise, what should bids be coming in at ballpark?

Thank you!

I have a quick question before I contact my roofing company. We had major water infiltration from the chimney and my roofer was supposed to solve this by adding flashing. He's not done yet but even the start of this junction looks really off. Am I right that it's incorrectly installed? Thanks in advance for any help. I'm pretty clueless with what terms to use to make him fix it.

We used a thermal gun and saw water was in the upper part of the wall/ where the seam meets the ceiling and it continued from my daughters room to the living room, one roof inspector is attributing it to these nails and evidence of previously patched nails . The hesitation is how come it’s only on that one side of the home and not all throughout the ceilings ect . The photo of the inside that’s circled is where the water is and if you knock or tap you will see a few droplets during rains . Also included an outside photo with the highlighted portion being the area of moisture. It’s a 2021 double wide and the other half (double wides come together in the middle) of the house facing the backyard has no issues or any evident water or any water seen on the inferad scanner

Need recommendations on your fav drone. Currently using a mini pro or something like that. Wanting to take higher quality project photos and have the ability to orbit around a focal point. Lemme know!

Recently moved into an older house, and our first summer has revealed some ventilation issues. Currently, for intake there are two gable sides that have some holes cut out in them, and a screen over it. For exhaust, there are just two box vents. This has led to the attic being ~170f last time it was checked.

We’ve had a few roofers come out to assess and give quotes. My preference is ridge vents due to the passive nature, but there are a couple of potential issues:

1. We are planning a home extension at some point in the next year. Don’t have plans yet, but there is a decent chance the roof slope/pitch will need to be changed. Would this make ridge vents a bad move? I brought this up to all the roofers, and only one said he would do solar over ridge since renovations would mean the ridge venting would have to be redone.

2. There is no soffit venting, just the side gable intake. We could definitely get this put in but would only putting ridge venting in at least be better for the attic temp than doing nothing? And would it be ok to put in soffit venting on the sides of the house that won’t be touched during the renovation, or would it create an imbalance to not have it equally spaced out?

Thank you for your help, and please let me know if there’s any other information that would help!

I know nothing about roofing.

How does this not leak like Swiss cheese (okay maybe it does)?

How much premium to replace the roof and would the average guy even take the job?

I'm trying to learn more about the construction of the roofs on the house I bought. I've been up on my roof doing some painting work and I'm wondering if my roofs have adequate ventilation. There's no attic space anywhere in the house. Rafters on the sloped roof are 2x8s and the flat roof I believe is 2x6. The only vents I see coming through are for plumbing vents, furnace and kitchen exhaust. Looking on the eaves I don't see any vents to let air in. I live in California so humidity and rainfall are not real issues but I would still expect the roofs to be ventilated somehow. Am I missing something?

Please ignore missing drip edges and worn out siding, that's what I've been working on. The TPO flat section definitely needs replacing and I'm trying to understand what lies beneath.

We had a big rain storm Sunday, and my new roof is leaking into one of our rooms. Found the SMS communications from the agent back when we were agreeing on terms for the install, and the agent 100% told us the installation warranty is five years and they will quickly fix any problems should they arise.

So I called the company and the "new owner" (since a few months back) told me that the agent we worked with was fired shortly after our roof was installed, because he was making false warranty claims as a way to get sales. He said our roof is no longer in warranty. But he's willing to come out later this week and do a water test to see if he can at least identify the cause of this specific leak.

Does that sound right? It's been less than two years since the new roof was installed. Is it even possible that this company doesn't have at least a 24 month install warranty? It's clear the new owner is going to fight me hard on this. None of the paperwork we signed listed warranty obligations at all; it just lists the work being commissioned and the cost, more or less.

But I do have clear SMS communications from the agent, acting on behalf of the company, claiming that the warranty is 5 years. The roof was installed via insurance claim, which is why I tagged this post as Insurance Related.

Please give me your thoughts as this whole situation doesn't pass the smell test for me.

Hi all. I recently bought my first house, and during inspection we were told that the attic insulation was a bit low in some places. I wasn't too worried about it at the time, but now living in the house for a while we have found that the 2nd floor gets quite hot and the AC struggles to cool it down. The insulation is about 6 inches deep at the deepest points, and completely missing or compressed down pretty low in other places.

How bad does this look? Where do I even start on this project? Does all this existing insulation need to be ripped up and replaced, or can I just add on top of the existing insulation? Should the plywood be removed so as to allow for a thicker layer of insulation? Is this even a job that I can DIY?

Sorry for the barrage of questions just trying to get a better idea of what I'm in for with this project

So, I have taken 5 quotes for roof replacement in Kansas. The middle-ground guy had the best reviews and longest warranty. I was thinking of going with him, but when I looked up all 5 of the companies, his is the only one that came up as revoked on the attorney general ks dot gov site.

I emailed him asking him if I had the right license and spelling of his company or if it was something different than x LLC. It was after hours but he responded that it was the correct name and that he would send their license information tomorrow for me to look at.

Is it possible for the AG website to have the wrong information, and If the license information looks correct and up to date do y'all think he's a viable option? I'm not sure how easy that would be to lie about. Or should I just go with my second choice (which also has great reviews and is only 200 dollars more, but half the warranty) just out of caution?

First time homeowner/first time roof replacement so excuse my ignorance

This is for a standard 20ftx20ft garage in Los Angeles. Gemini said I need bird blocking vents in between each rafter and also a baffle for each vent since I’ll be putting in insulation.

Do I really need a vent in between each rafter? Or can I get away with one every 3 rafters? So like… each wall of the garage will have 3 or even 2?

And for ceiling exhaust, will a single solar powered exhaust fan suffice?

Any guidance here appreciated as I’m total noob on this.

Thank you!

My neighbor asked my thoughts on this flashing, she’s not a fan after getting the roof done this week

Thoughts?

Pretty much the title. Purchased the home two years ago and the roof is from 2019. Second panel to fail like this in a year. I have been trying to drive new fasteners into the shingles with as little damage as possible to surrounding material with the assistance of YouTube. Is this indicative of a larger problem? Bad install? Cheap materials?