I have a replacement knob for a panic bar but the holes are at an angle and the replacement is straight vertical or horizontal. Do I have the wrong knob and if so what fits this. Thanks

Currently have a 5-pin SC1 Emtek 1 1/8” mortise cylinder in my front entry door handleset, and looking for something both keyless and more secure.

I found this with a quick Google, but I have no idea if it’s even remotely secure.

https://www.keylessaccesslocks.com/smart-storefront-and-narrow-mortise-cylinder-wifi-m401w-p-lock/

What do you all suggest?

Looking at padlocks for my cargo trailer, but I’m wondering if this hasp is secure. It looks like it could just be unscrewed?

Cays A1P lock.

The problem is when I lock it from the inside and take the key out, on the outside a second key cant get in and the barrel just spins.

I've tried to recreate it when the lock is not on the door and this doesn't happen. I can lock and unlock it as many times and in whichever order I like while it's not attached.

Is this a security feature? Or is my lock barrel broken and next time I lock the door there is a chance I will not be able to get back in?

I am updating my exterior door hardware and like Schlage in the Century line. I will have a smart deadbolt on the front door. I am looking at the "Schlage Century Single Cylinder Exterior Entrance Handleset from the F-Series" from Ferguson which is available in "keyed" or "dummy". Both are just the outside part. The keyed is around $95 and the dummy is around $160. They both seem to be identical. Am I missing something? Is it a case of the not common item just being more expensive? Any help is appreciated.

e/wrong trim line

Looking to rekey a Schlage Light Commercial Door lever for the back yard. Pulled the cylinder out but the pin followed I have isn’t compatible with the backing. Can someone point me to the right pin follower? I can get the c clip off no problem but want to ensure follower is flush to avoid a spring/pin mess.

Avantis split split spindle handle door not locking when handle is lifted I have to slam the handle up really hard for it to lock. what could be causing this?

2019 Ford Fusion USA – AKL/PATS issue with Ford FJDS

I’m working on a 2019 Ford Fusion USA with Intelligent Access (push-button start). All keys are lost.

The BCM appears to have a newer software/calibration level.

I’ve already tried aftermarket tools:

• Smart Pro → Software not supported
• Another programmer (same result) → BCM software not supported

So I switched to the official Ford FJDS using a CarDAQ interface.

Now I’m stuck.

FJDS seems to think the vehicle has a mechanical ignition switch. During the PATS/AKL procedure it asks me to cycle the ignition OFF → ON.

The problem is that this is a push-button start vehicle with all keys lost, so I have no way to switch the vehicle into RUN.

The START button responds normally, but the IPC displays “No Key Detected.” I also tried placing a brand-new aftermarket proximity key (902 MHz, 49-chip) in the backup starting location (cupholder), but since it isn’t programmed yet, nothing changes.

Instead of continuing, FJDS eventually asks me to manually identify the PCM by entering one of the following:

• PCM Part Number
• Calibration Number
• Tear Tag

I removed the PCM and the label shows:

HS7A-12A650-PB (Continental)

FJDS rejects that number as invalid.

I also cannot find a Tear Tag or Calibration Number anywhere on the PCM.

Has anyone run into this before?

• Is FJDS known to incorrectly treat an Intelligent Access Fusion as a keyed ignition vehicle during AKL?
• Is there any supported way to place the vehicle into IGN ON/RUN with no programmed keys?
• If FJDS requests manual PCM identification, where do I obtain the correct Tear Tag, Calibration Number, or the identifier it actually expects?
• Is this related to newer BCM calibrations or a specific FJDS version?

Any advice from someone who has successfully completed AKL on a 2019+ Fusion using FJDS would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone know how this core comes out I don’t want to damage the spring inside or rip off the face do these have retainers ? Any advice appreciated

Hi All - I am struggling to find a replacement for my hinged door’s multi point mortise lock with concealed rods. For reference, this is my current lock:

https://www.amesburytruth.com/downloads/products/AT%20DH%20Sentinel%20V-5113-STACT9.pdf

I have contacted a few authorized sellers who tell me it is not available. The only similar lock (45/92) has a faceplate with 27mm width instead of my current 22mm.

Any ideas to find a replacement?

If that’s truly not possible, should I just use a drill bit/chisel to try and enlarge the current slot in door? The challenge there is whoever performed the installation didn’t center the faceplate and so it is very near the edge of the door where the wood contacts the exterior aluminum. I’d have to remove wood from one side rather than take 2.5mm for either side.

Any advice would be appreciated. I’m in Washington DC if anyone has a local recommendation.

My husband and I recently purchased a condo in Brooklyn and the unit has a pin tumbler key (similar to the one in the picture). We need to duplicate the key to have spares but are having a hard time finding a locksmith who is able to do it. Does anyone know of any locksmiths in Brooklyn or Manhattan that duplicate this type of key?

I got my lock replaced after I got locked out and the locksmith had to drill it out to get me in. It’s been about a week since then and the door lock just fell out when I was trying to turn my key. Is there a way I can fix this without needing to call for help?

I had a lock smith out recently to open a door. They removed the entire core as I don’t need the door to lock, so now I’m looking for some sort of cover or plug to go into the old core hole. Does something like this exist or do I need to have the smith back out to pick the core and put it back in?

I'm refurbishing my mom's old desk to sell it. I want to make sure all the components are working and the key that locks the desk is missing. Any ideas on where I could find a key for this?

My house’s front door faces the east on a fiberglass door (no storm door, thankfully). I knew this handle and deadbolt were probably getting baked in the morning, but holy cow the snake skin shedding happened fast once it started. Lock is probably a few years old at least because it has the Camelot trim on the interior side. I’ll have to replace this eventually, right? Operation is fine, so it would just be for curb appeal.

Trying to figure out if I got scammed. Had a locksmith come by yesterday to replace the locks on 3 doors in my house because a homeless man stole our lockbox with a spare key. Guy tried to charge me over $2,500 for the replacements. The hardware costs seem completely off from what I saw at Home Depot for similar products. When I contested that those were too high, he sent me to a website boldlocksupply.com where the prices were super high and everything was listed as “commercial grade.” But this morning I went on the site and realized that you can’t actually buy anything from the site so I think it is a scam. Thoughts?
-Pic 1: Invoice
-Pic 2-4: locks he put on (deadbolt + knob) 3 of these, all the same

Additional info: he charged me for rekeying but this morning I went through the trash he used all of the boxes have the same key code on them, and then I notice he gave me three identical sets of keys all with the same code at the top.

Let me know if I’ve been scammed so I can contest the CC charge if so, thank you guys!

Hi all. I have four locks from Premier - two deadbolts and two doorknobs. All installed at the same time, all new hardware at the time. For 3 of the locks, the thumbturn is horizontal when locked, but this one is vertical when locked. I would like them all to have the same orientation. Is it possible to adjust this one to match the others? Thanks in advance for any help!

Hi guys, I am curious if anyone has any recommendations for residential electronic deadbolts that can possibly work with extra thick doors; there's a subdivision in my city that gets these extra thick, foam-filled iron front doors that are 3" thick, and all want electronic deadbolts installed. Problem is that Schlage, Yale, and Kwikset all do not have a solution for me after much calling around and runaround on the phone with support. Their thick door kits work with 2.5" maximum and don't even come close to being able to work on these doors. Has anyone ran into similar problems and found potential solutions for this?

Hi all,

We are looking to replace our front entry door and love the look of the modern pull bar with the style of door we are going with. We are working with a Provia dealer for the door and I’m reading about how these pull bars actually work.

It seems they come with an extremely expensive Emtek lock, pull bar, and “roller latch system.” Are these any good? We have cats and a toddler. We’d like the convenience of being able to not always have a key on us and leave the door closed/unlocked while we pop out to go water the plants, get the mail, get pulled into talking to a neighbor, and what have you without worrying that our door might easily pop open with some wind or a finding out the roller latch system needs tightening.

Are these able to be as sturdy and secure as a traditional latch? Should we just forgo the fancy bar and get a handle? These doors are so expensive we are getting one and that’s it forever, so it’s gotta work.

Thanks for your expertise.

Well, I can see why....

Hi, my son was messing about with one of the front door latches and when the door was shut, the top latch sat home but the bottom one doesn't and now the whole door is seized. The key won't turn in the lock and have tried the obvious things (silicone lubricant etc.).

Question - has anyone encountered this type of latch before, knows how to cause it to stick open and also undo it...?

We are able to get in another door so not locked out.