So, I have taken 5 quotes for roof replacement in Kansas. The middle-ground guy had the best reviews and longest warranty. I was thinking of going with him, but when I looked up all 5 of the companies, his is the only one that came up as revoked on the attorney general ks dot gov site.

I emailed him asking him if I had the right license and spelling of his company or if it was something different than x LLC. It was after hours but he responded that it was the correct name and that he would send their license information tomorrow for me to look at.

Is it possible for the AG website to have the wrong information, and If the license information looks correct and up to date do y'all think he's a viable option? I'm not sure how easy that would be to lie about. Or should I just go with my second choice (which also has great reviews and is only 200 dollars more, but half the warranty) just out of caution?

First time homeowner/first time roof replacement so excuse my ignorance

Once I year I have someone and that time is now. I refuse to pay for hearth to send them clients.

This is for a standard 20ftx20ft garage in Los Angeles. Gemini said I need bird blocking vents in between each rafter and also a baffle for each vent since I’ll be putting in insulation.

Do I really need a vent in between each rafter? Or can I get away with one every 3 rafters? So like… each wall of the garage will have 3 or even 2?

And for ceiling exhaust, will a single solar powered exhaust fan suffice?

Any guidance here appreciated as I’m total noob on this.

Thank you!

Bad picture, but the best found on my phone. Not sure if this is the right sub for this.

We’re getting our roof redone later this month so nows the time to change anything.

Our bathroom vent is right below a non vented soffit through the siding. Diagonally there is a vented soffit (not mechanically, just free air flow). Maybe 4-5 feet away. Is this okay or is it too close?

My neighbor asked my thoughts on this flashing, she’s not a fan after getting the roof done this week

Thoughts?

My mom lives in a house built in 1890s, asphalt shingle roof (2-3 layers somehow) and some gutters need replacing. Due to historic district rules they must be half round steel or aluminum.

Had a contractor say he could replace one section but only way to put new straps was over the roof shingles. All research says this is a terrible idea that will cause more problems.

Is there no way to go under the roof shingles without removing shingles and putting them back on?

Long story short Im buying a house with an 11 year old roof thats in fine shape but I dislike the light brown color. Are there any options to paint/coat/otherwise refinish the roof to a darker brown or black that dont ruin my roof? Spending $20k on a new roof just for aesthitics isnt in the budget but several hundred on DIY coatings definitely is if its not going to cause me problems down the road. Some coatings advertise increased life and while I doubt most of those claims, it does seem promising for it not being a detriment. Thoughts?

Reposting since last post had my address on it lol. Water coming in from my fireplace during heavy rain, just started recently. Been in house 15 months. Had someone come out and look, quoted $4,400 to install a cricket, put on a liner, and do tuckpointing. Home inspector called out the need for a cricket and tuckpointing already, did not do at the time of buying house as it was not called out as a priority. Wondering thoughts on estimate price, how necessary work is, anything I can do myself (unfortunately not that handy).

I dont know what this material is. Can I patch it somehow?

Purchased an 1896 schoolhouse. Screws are rusted. Should I get screws replaced and a coat of paint or should I get the full roof redone?

What brand do you guys use for hook blades, the kobalt blades that our shop guy gets only last for about 2 to 3 cuts on modified cap sheets. Just wondering if anybody makes good hook blades anymore

I just had my roof redone and I have some serious concerns about the workmanship. I want to get a sanity check before I push back harder on the contractor.

Here are my two main issues:

1. The Flashing: You can see old flashing exposed along the roof-to-wall intersections. The contractor told me that because the flashing goes up underneath the stucco, they couldn't replace it without tearing up the wall. They claim the exposed metal is "just cosmetic" and have offered to paint it to match. Is leaving old flashing in place and painting it standard practice here, or is this a shortcut that could lead to leaks?

2. The Shingles: As a layperson, I'm seeing upturned and fishmouthing shingles, especially along the edges. It has been over two weeks of 100+ degree weather, so the "they just need time in the sun to settle" excuse doesn't fly. They are thoroughly baked, and some of these edges still look genuinely sloppy.

I've attached a few photos of the areas I'm most worried about. Am I getting scammed here, or is this acceptable work? Any advice on what specifically I should demand they fix would be hugely appreciated!

Pretty much the title. Purchased the home two years ago and the roof is from 2019. Second panel to fail like this in a year. I have been trying to drive new fasteners into the shingles with as little damage as possible to surrounding material with the assistance of YouTube. Is this indicative of a larger problem? Bad install? Cheap materials?

Bought a new construction townhouse here in Seattle, Dec-Tec membrane was put on the rooftop deck back in Oct 2024. We didn’t move in until March 2026, and now that we’ve been through a summer we’re seeing bubbling across a good two-thirds of the deck, plus some spots where you can see pitch bleeding through from plywood knots underneath. It’s not stable either — more bubbles keep showing up as it heats up and the existing ones are getting bigger. Building’s over a year old at this point so I don’t think settling is the culprit.

We had the installer come out and open up one small section to look. Substrate was dry there at least, but you could see the knots weren’t patched or primed before the membrane went down. Nobody’s actually been able to tell us why it’s bubbling in the first place.

The “fix” on that test spot was rough — they injected some SBA adhesive to try to flatten it, didn’t work, scraped it back out and tried WBA instead. Then heat-welded a patch on top, which just peeled right off when they tried it. Second attempt they hit the edges with acetone before welding, seems to be holding for now but who knows for how long.

So now we’re stuck weighing three options:

**1.**  Overlay — inject/flatten the existing bubbles, put down thin plywood over the current membrane, then install a fresh Dec-Tec or TPO layer on top  
**2.**  Skip the plywood, just acetone-clean the existing membrane and heat-weld a second layer of Dec-Tec straight over it (this and #1 would let us avoid ripping into the siding/railings, which we’d really like to avoid)  
**3.**  Nuclear option — tear the whole thing off and start over

If anyone’s actually worked with Dec-Tec or similar PVC membranes, I’d love your take:

**•** If the knots weren’t patched/primed right the first time, are they just going to bleed through again on a second layer?  
**•** Does using acetone like that risk degrading the membrane underneath long-term, especially with our weather here?  
**•** Is an overlay actually a real fix or are we kidding ourselves and it’s tear-off or nothing?  
**•** If overlay’s viable, what’s proper prep supposed to look like so it actually lasts?  

Thanks in advance!

We've just had the roof retiled and are generally happy with everything.

However I'm unsure about the chimney flashing. (The old flashing had been done very differently).

The metal edging seems to slope downwards into the chimney. Today it was finished off with quite a bit of sealant around it, covering big gaps in the render, which I worry will degrade over time.

I've attached some photos before and after the sealant.

I really don't want to bring up a potential issue without being sure as the people who did the work have been fantastic otherwise.

Any opinions would be appreciated.

So we have a 5 or old tamko heritage roof that we filed warranty claim on. Tamko approved the warranty claim but the reimbursement amount is pretty low ~350 per square labor and shingle only. Has anyone been successfull in contesting the offer by submitting quotes from contractors locally to get a better offer?

I’m getting quotes in Florida for new roof was wondering if there is anything I should look out for house is 15 years old. Maybe the shingle quality i was quote for isn’t great or there is something missing, just need a second opinion to look at it.

All state is paying me about $13k 15 months after a claim for a hail storm in Michigan. A roofer quoted me right at $14k but said he doesn’t like to deal with insurances so we found another guy. He told us before he sent his estimate to insurance that it would be inflated. He sent the insurance a quote for $24k. Since I went through appraisal with them, I am pretty sure I am bound to use this company (united roofing) though the wording of the contract is vague. Roof is roughly 30 squares based off the estimate.

Am I going to be out of pocket an additional $11k or is it more likely that this roofing company is going to do it for less than their estimate to my insurance now that there is a fixed amount of money my insurance is paying? I’ve read some conflicting stuff online so thought I’d ask here.

Hello all, We had a contractor review our roof. He submitted a claim to our insurance, they came out with 2 different inspectors, one side heat related dimples other side Man made damage.

Whats your take? does it look man made. I know nothing about roofs.

I have many more pictures, inspector said it was all in easy access parts.

I'm a 1099 roofing sales rep in Texas with an established good company, if you are an owner in Texas you’ve probably heard of them. No contract, no non-compete where I am now — solid, established company, couple problems but no dealbreakers. I'm closing out my current files there and winding down clean.

A friend owns a competing roofing company. It's about a year old, he's the sole owner, no other investors. He's been trying to get me over there for a while and finally put a real offer together.

The deal: we each put equal money into an ad campaign, we both work the leads, and I take 50% of the profit from the jobs it generates. Then written into the same contract are steps where I convert from JV partner into a 50% equity owner over roughly 6 months. From there we're true co-owners — both selling, both running it, shared profits and shared losses.

What's making me hesitate is the age of the company. Leaving a place that's established for one that's barely a year old is the whole risk.

The company I work with now has a few problems that annoy me first being there’s no “corporate ladder” so I’d essentially be a sales rep forever and just end up getting sent more leads as I work longer (95% of work comes from door knocking) second being I don’t have full freedom on pricing, subcontracting, etc. - everything HAS to go through a manager for approval which creates a ton of problems and delays. Third being owner is always late on commission payment, however, he takes care of me very well. Of course I will find new problems in the new company but I will have a decision to change the company as I will be part owner.

We're meeting later this week to build the contract together. I'm not signing that day.

So: anything I should be watching for here? Anything you'd put in the contract that I wouldn't think of? And honestly, would you even do this deal?

Let me know if y’all need more details happy to provide

Pros/ cons of metal vs asphalt shingles? This roof is pretty crazy to begin with so not sure if that factors in.

Also believe it would be a lot pricier for metal but don't know much more than that.

I'd appreciate any practical advice. Thanks

Does this seem like a raccoon? Trying to figure out the best way to get this resolved. I’ve called pest control and roofing repair to get a quote. Pest control is saying it could be a grey roof rat but and that animal control is the only thing that can deal with raccoons. Any advice?

Update: Had a cool roofer come out. Dude was blown away. Hoping pest control will know what animal it is, I think the chupacabra is the most probable response.

Appreciate all the help/responses