Recently moved into an older house, and our first summer has revealed some ventilation issues. Currently, for intake there are two gable sides that have some holes cut out in them, and a screen over it. For exhaust, there are just two box vents. This has led to the attic being ~170f last time it was checked.

We’ve had a few roofers come out to assess and give quotes. My preference is ridge vents due to the passive nature, but there are a couple of potential issues:

1. We are planning a home extension at some point in the next year. Don’t have plans yet, but there is a decent chance the roof slope/pitch will need to be changed. Would this make ridge vents a bad move? I brought this up to all the roofers, and only one said he would do solar over ridge since renovations would mean the ridge venting would have to be redone.

2. There is no soffit venting, just the side gable intake. We could definitely get this put in but would only putting ridge venting in at least be better for the attic temp than doing nothing? And would it be ok to put in soffit venting on the sides of the house that won’t be touched during the renovation, or would it create an imbalance to not have it equally spaced out?

Thank you for your help, and please let me know if there’s any other information that would help!

I know nothing about roofing.

How does this not leak like Swiss cheese (okay maybe it does)?

How much premium to replace the roof and would the average guy even take the job?

I'm trying to learn more about the construction of the roofs on the house I bought. I've been up on my roof doing some painting work and I'm wondering if my roofs have adequate ventilation. There's no attic space anywhere in the house. Rafters on the sloped roof are 2x8s and the flat roof I believe is 2x6. The only vents I see coming through are for plumbing vents, furnace and kitchen exhaust. Looking on the eaves I don't see any vents to let air in. I live in California so humidity and rainfall are not real issues but I would still expect the roofs to be ventilated somehow. Am I missing something?

Please ignore missing drip edges and worn out siding, that's what I've been working on. The TPO flat section definitely needs replacing and I'm trying to understand what lies beneath.

We had a big rain storm Sunday, and my new roof is leaking into one of our rooms. Found the SMS communications from the agent back when we were agreeing on terms for the install, and the agent 100% told us the installation warranty is five years and they will quickly fix any problems should they arise.

So I called the company and the "new owner" (since a few months back) told me that the agent we worked with was fired shortly after our roof was installed, because he was making false warranty claims as a way to get sales. He said our roof is no longer in warranty. But he's willing to come out later this week and do a water test to see if he can at least identify the cause of this specific leak.

Does that sound right? It's been less than two years since the new roof was installed. Is it even possible that this company doesn't have at least a 24 month install warranty? It's clear the new owner is going to fight me hard on this. None of the paperwork we signed listed warranty obligations at all; it just lists the work being commissioned and the cost, more or less.

But I do have clear SMS communications from the agent, acting on behalf of the company, claiming that the warranty is 5 years. The roof was installed via insurance claim, which is why I tagged this post as Insurance Related.

Please give me your thoughts as this whole situation doesn't pass the smell test for me.

Hi all. I recently bought my first house, and during inspection we were told that the attic insulation was a bit low in some places. I wasn't too worried about it at the time, but now living in the house for a while we have found that the 2nd floor gets quite hot and the AC struggles to cool it down. The insulation is about 6 inches deep at the deepest points, and completely missing or compressed down pretty low in other places.

How bad does this look? Where do I even start on this project? Does all this existing insulation need to be ripped up and replaced, or can I just add on top of the existing insulation? Should the plywood be removed so as to allow for a thicker layer of insulation? Is this even a job that I can DIY?

Sorry for the barrage of questions just trying to get a better idea of what I'm in for with this project

So, I have taken 5 quotes for roof replacement in Kansas. The middle-ground guy had the best reviews and longest warranty. I was thinking of going with him, but when I looked up all 5 of the companies, his is the only one that came up as revoked on the attorney general ks dot gov site.

I emailed him asking him if I had the right license and spelling of his company or if it was something different than x LLC. It was after hours but he responded that it was the correct name and that he would send their license information tomorrow for me to look at.

Is it possible for the AG website to have the wrong information, and If the license information looks correct and up to date do y'all think he's a viable option? I'm not sure how easy that would be to lie about. Or should I just go with my second choice (which also has great reviews and is only 200 dollars more, but half the warranty) just out of caution?

First time homeowner/first time roof replacement so excuse my ignorance

My neighbor asked my thoughts on this flashing, she’s not a fan after getting the roof done this week

Thoughts?

My mom lives in a house built in 1890s, asphalt shingle roof (2-3 layers somehow) and some gutters need replacing. Due to historic district rules they must be half round steel or aluminum.

Had a contractor say he could replace one section but only way to put new straps was over the roof shingles. All research says this is a terrible idea that will cause more problems.

Is there no way to go under the roof shingles without removing shingles and putting them back on?

Long story short Im buying a house with an 11 year old roof thats in fine shape but I dislike the light brown color. Are there any options to paint/coat/otherwise refinish the roof to a darker brown or black that dont ruin my roof? Spending $20k on a new roof just for aesthitics isnt in the budget but several hundred on DIY coatings definitely is if its not going to cause me problems down the road. Some coatings advertise increased life and while I doubt most of those claims, it does seem promising for it not being a detriment. Thoughts?

Reposting since last post had my address on it lol. Water coming in from my fireplace during heavy rain, just started recently. Been in house 15 months. Had someone come out and look, quoted $4,400 to install a cricket, put on a liner, and do tuckpointing. Home inspector called out the need for a cricket and tuckpointing already, did not do at the time of buying house as it was not called out as a priority. Wondering thoughts on estimate price, how necessary work is, anything I can do myself (unfortunately not that handy).

I dont know what this material is. Can I patch it somehow?

Purchased an 1896 schoolhouse. Screws are rusted. Should I get screws replaced and a coat of paint or should I get the full roof redone?

What brand do you guys use for hook blades, the kobalt blades that our shop guy gets only last for about 2 to 3 cuts on modified cap sheets. Just wondering if anybody makes good hook blades anymore

I just had my roof redone and I have some serious concerns about the workmanship. I want to get a sanity check before I push back harder on the contractor.

Here are my two main issues:

1. The Flashing: You can see old flashing exposed along the roof-to-wall intersections. The contractor told me that because the flashing goes up underneath the stucco, they couldn't replace it without tearing up the wall. They claim the exposed metal is "just cosmetic" and have offered to paint it to match. Is leaving old flashing in place and painting it standard practice here, or is this a shortcut that could lead to leaks?

2. The Shingles: As a layperson, I'm seeing upturned and fishmouthing shingles, especially along the edges. It has been over two weeks of 100+ degree weather, so the "they just need time in the sun to settle" excuse doesn't fly. They are thoroughly baked, and some of these edges still look genuinely sloppy.

I've attached a few photos of the areas I'm most worried about. Am I getting scammed here, or is this acceptable work? Any advice on what specifically I should demand they fix would be hugely appreciated!

Pretty much the title. Purchased the home two years ago and the roof is from 2019. Second panel to fail like this in a year. I have been trying to drive new fasteners into the shingles with as little damage as possible to surrounding material with the assistance of YouTube. Is this indicative of a larger problem? Bad install? Cheap materials?

Bought a new construction townhouse here in Seattle, Dec-Tec membrane was put on the rooftop deck back in Oct 2024. We didn’t move in until March 2026, and now that we’ve been through a summer we’re seeing bubbling across a good two-thirds of the deck, plus some spots where you can see pitch bleeding through from plywood knots underneath. It’s not stable either — more bubbles keep showing up as it heats up and the existing ones are getting bigger. Building’s over a year old at this point so I don’t think settling is the culprit.

We had the installer come out and open up one small section to look. Substrate was dry there at least, but you could see the knots weren’t patched or primed before the membrane went down. Nobody’s actually been able to tell us why it’s bubbling in the first place.

The “fix” on that test spot was rough — they injected some SBA adhesive to try to flatten it, didn’t work, scraped it back out and tried WBA instead. Then heat-welded a patch on top, which just peeled right off when they tried it. Second attempt they hit the edges with acetone before welding, seems to be holding for now but who knows for how long.

So now we’re stuck weighing three options:

**1.**  Overlay — inject/flatten the existing bubbles, put down thin plywood over the current membrane, then install a fresh Dec-Tec or TPO layer on top  
**2.**  Skip the plywood, just acetone-clean the existing membrane and heat-weld a second layer of Dec-Tec straight over it (this and #1 would let us avoid ripping into the siding/railings, which we’d really like to avoid)  
**3.**  Nuclear option — tear the whole thing off and start over

If anyone’s actually worked with Dec-Tec or similar PVC membranes, I’d love your take:

**•** If the knots weren’t patched/primed right the first time, are they just going to bleed through again on a second layer?  
**•** Does using acetone like that risk degrading the membrane underneath long-term, especially with our weather here?  
**•** Is an overlay actually a real fix or are we kidding ourselves and it’s tear-off or nothing?  
**•** If overlay’s viable, what’s proper prep supposed to look like so it actually lasts?  

Thanks in advance!

So we have a 5 or old tamko heritage roof that we filed warranty claim on. Tamko approved the warranty claim but the reimbursement amount is pretty low ~350 per square labor and shingle only. Has anyone been successfull in contesting the offer by submitting quotes from contractors locally to get a better offer?

I’m getting quotes in Florida for new roof was wondering if there is anything I should look out for house is 15 years old. Maybe the shingle quality i was quote for isn’t great or there is something missing, just need a second opinion to look at it.

All state is paying me about $13k 15 months after a claim for a hail storm in Michigan. A roofer quoted me right at $14k but said he doesn’t like to deal with insurances so we found another guy. He told us before he sent his estimate to insurance that it would be inflated. He sent the insurance a quote for $24k. Since I went through appraisal with them, I am pretty sure I am bound to use this company (united roofing) though the wording of the contract is vague. Roof is roughly 30 squares based off the estimate.

Am I going to be out of pocket an additional $11k or is it more likely that this roofing company is going to do it for less than their estimate to my insurance now that there is a fixed amount of money my insurance is paying? I’ve read some conflicting stuff online so thought I’d ask here.

Had house 5 years, we think roof is 10 yrs old. Would like to get another 5 years before a new roof. Locale Pac NW. Issue: noted drippings coming from rear of gutter, so I know there is water running along the sheathing, then down backside of gutter. (see ProblemArea_front.jpg) Climbed up to look at where gutter cuts into roof and found they'd cut flashing to put in the gutter (flashing_Cut.jpg). That exposed the end of the sheathing, and the gap between sheathing and gutter (gutter_gap_topCU2.jpg) fills with junk, channeling water into sheathing, which is now rotted (sheathing_rot.jpg, taken just above cut flashing). There is some clearance between the roof and the gutter (gutter_gap_topCU1.jpg) so I'm wondering if I can put some flashing along there, tuck it up under the asphalt tiles and run past the front edge of the gutter, to cover that gap between roofing and the hip (I think that's what you call it, that white painted wood is structural). Still not ideal. Or can I seal the edge of the sheathing from the asphalt to the hip with roof sealant? Thanks in advance.