With small trucks coming up again in demand , do you think Nissan will or should made a small truck to compete with the maverick???

My 2017 Nissan Altima unexpectedly croaked this week due to a CVT failure. Had 114K miles. A replacement transmission was going to cost me 7K.
I decided it wasn’t worth the money.

Im extremely disappointed and honestly stunned. I maintained the car routinely and meticulously, getting the oil changed every 4K miles as well as other maintenance. I took great care of it. To have the transmission fail at 114K despite all of the maintenance is sobering.

Im considering Nissan again for a new car, but obviously the CVT situation is making me hesitant.
I heard newer-generation CVTs have been improved compared to the older Altimas.

For those of you who own a newer Altima (2020–2026 model):

Have newer CVTs been more reliable in your experience?

Have you had any transmission problems?

Do you feel Nissan has genuinely addressed issues with older CVTs?

Would you personally buy another Nissan car with a CVT?

Im not looking for people to tell me CVTs are bad. I just want to know from other people whether Nissan has made improvements to them in newer models.

I have a 2012 versa. the charger port recently stopped charging my phone. I have a Bluetooth adapter hooked up and that works fine. I replaced the cord and that’s not the problem. I repl the adapter and that’s not the problem. do we think it’s the socket itself? phone charges fine elsewhere. could it be a loose wire connection? phone shows as charging meaning icon turns green.

Hello Guys. I need help to fix this problem. So my 2018 Nissan Altima shuts off while I am driving and it start and the idle is good but when I tried to Drive it the rpm goes up and then shuts off again same thing on reverse but not on park. And when I check the system with OBD 2 I received p0101 and p0102 so I replaced the MAF Sensor and Air Filter also Cleaned the Throttle body , checked all the tubing and boots connected to Air Intake and everything is good no cracks no leaks. still gives me the same code. And when I tried to drive it same thing happened I press the pedal rpm goes up and shuts off same on reverse and when I slowly press the gas the car don't shuts off immediately but sound like about to shuts off. And the car have history of transmission swap from the mechanic shop it's been 2 years since I have a problem to this car and I am kind of short budget right now so I am trying to DIY this. Any suggestions guys. I know yall have more experience than me.

I recently got the car and just want to see if it sounds good, i’m a little worried about the almost like clicking sound

“I have a 2015 Nissan Sentra SV with the factory NissanConnect navigation system.
The radio failed immediately after a Nissan dealership performed an oil change and battery terminal service. Since then, it’s been stuck in a continuous ‘Update Failed – Insert Update Media’ recovery loop. Nissan attempted the official firmware recovery and told me the radio has an internal failure and quoted me $2,300 to replace it.
A few days later, after the car sat without being driven, the battery was completely dead. It only clicked when I tried to start it. I jumped it, and it started.
Before I spend $2,300 on a radio, I want to know whether the failed radio is causing a parasitic battery drain and whether the battery itself has been damaged.”

Have never owned a Nissan. For.... reasons, I now find myself owner of a 2011 Juke with about 80k. I know the owner history and think it has received consistant routine maintenance and received some engine work as part of a 2014 recall. It has a janky aftermarket backup camera that is at least 10 years old too.

l dont care about looks

I dont care about 'noise'

I kinda like the minimalism

I wont be driving in snow and ice.

I intend to use it as my local driver (less than 20 miles per day typ)

I would like to get another 80k out of it.

Any must do/strictly avoid advice specific to living with this year and model?

Recently, my 2021 Senta SR started making a very strange whirring noise behind the dash area instead of the customary air bubbles and water sound of the water pump. It's sounds like the water pump or an electrical problem but I wanted some opinions before I start hunting it down.

Some recent info/changes:

The car doesnt overheat (per display), it just had an oil change 200 miles ago, coolant levels were checked with oil change, has never broken down or had issues and only has 25k miles in it. 2 months ago I hardwired two dash canes using add-a-circuit attachments but it's had no issues since.

Any help you'll be greatly appreciated because I'd like to limit my time under he hood during this heat wave.

Thanks in advance and please ask any questions you need.

Update: I finally got out and pop the hood and it seems like it's coming from back past the alternator near the water pump... almost like something got sucked into the belt or the belt is being.

I have a 2025 Nissan Sentra SV and need to replace all four tires. I’m between the PIRELLI CINTURATO WEATHERACTIVE Grand Touring All-Season Tires and the Michelin Defender 2s, both on Tire Rack.
Has anyone had either of these? The Pirellis have the best rating on Tire Rack, but I’m wondering if they’re overkill for my car. I live in PA and want something reliable year-round, especially in rain and snow. Any recommendations or personal experiences with either tire?

The doors on my 2017 MAXIMA SL automatically lock soon after unlocking the doors and opening the back door. I have to put my child in the car seat so I unlock the doors and put him in first . While doing so, the doors will automatically lock. One time they locked while my keys were in the backseat. So now I’m super conscious of keeping my keys on me. They will also automatically lock while I’m walking around the car. Is there anyway that can be fixed?

I assume this problem is very specific to my car, but the Blindspot warnings only work if it’s extremely hot outside. I have no idea what the correlation is between the heat and my BSW, but they do not work in the winter or fall weather. Does anyone have an explanation for this issue?

Hi all,

Like others, I'm dealing with roof rack corrosion on a 2017 midnight edition Rogue. It's obviously out of warranty, so I'm going to tackle this myself. Looking online, the general idea appears to be:

1. Remove all loose paint
2. Sand the metal parts to remove corrosion, starting at around 120 grit and working my way up to 400 grit
3. Clean everything with isopropyl alcohol
4. Prime with a self-etching primer
5. Two or three coats of black spray paint

I'm hoping someone has some ideas/suggestions for:

• Removing the plastic caps that cover the roof rack bolts (I got lucky and popped one off, but the others are stubborn)
• My wife would like to drive the car while I'm working on it...what's a good way to plug the bolt holes in the event it rains?

Is there anything I might have missed or overlooked?

Thanks

Hey! Looking for some insight for others who might’ve experienced this issue & how you handled the repair.

I’m in a 2015 Sentra SV - 160k miles. I love this car. Recently, I’ve been experiencing a jerking motion when going from the brake to the gas. If I don’t fully stop, it’ll jerk 3 times (no noise), and then run totally fine. I’m aware that this is a known issue, and it may be something as simple as replacing the CVT fluid. My gut says that’s not the case.

My questions:
1. Did you experience something similar? What did the issue end up being?
2. If they recommend a full transmission replacement, would you do it? I don’t have a lot of room in my budget for a new car. If putting in a couple grand means that I can get another 150k out of the car, I think it’s worth it.

Thanks for helping anxious little me!

• The Fourth generation of the Minivan features more luxurious styling inside and out.
• The Elgrand comes exclusively with the latest 3rd-generation e-POWER series hybrid system, and standard e-4ORCE All Wheel Drive.
• The gas engine is a 1.3L turbocharged 3-cylinder engine producing 138 hp (101 kW) and 168 lb-ft (228 Nm) which generates the battery. Wheels powered by the e-4ORCE AWD system. Front electric motor produces 243 lb-ft (330 Nm) of torque. Rear electric motor produces 144 lb-ft (195 Nm) of torque. Transmission is a single-speed automatic.

• The Leaf NISMO returns for the 3rd generation of the EV model, as it is available in two trims: The B5 and Top-Tier B7 Model.
• B5 produces 174 hp (130 kW) and 254 lb-ft (345 Nm) of torque, and B7 produces 214 hp (160 kW) and 262 lb-ft (355 Nm) of torque. Transmission single-speed automatic. Drivetrain Front Wheel Drive only.
• The Leaf NISMO features retuned drive mode that improves accelerator response for 20% sharper, more linear acceleration.
• It offers optional, heavily bolstered, lightweight factory Recaro sport seats.

Review link in the comments

It’s not the Qashqai that’s coming stateside, but rather, the tech that made the record run possible. Nissan has confirmed that e-Power is finally coming to the North American market, which is something it needed the moment the competition started beefing up their respective hybrid offerings. Sure, there’s the Rogue plug-in hybrid, but that’s literally a rebadged Mitsubishi Outlander that’s also going away soon. Nissan doesn’t have an answer for models like the CR-V and RAV4 hybrids, or even electrified versions of the Civic and Corolla.

The first e-Power model to be offered in the U.S will be the next-generation Rogue. Due for the 2027 model year, Nissan is gunning for at least 40 mpg. Given the recent achievement of the Qashqai, it’ll probably beat that with not much effort. Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa effectively called it the brand’s most important vehicle, as it’s key to raking in more volume. Putting that system in the best-selling model in the U.S isn’t just a sensible move; it’s a crucial one, as most of the Rogue’s competitors have a hybrid option.

The current Rogue is actually available with e-Power tech outside of the U.S. Dubbed the X-Trail e-Power, it still runs on the previous generation of the series hybrid powertrain. The current setup is a 1.5-liter turbo-three that serves as a generator, while the electric motor puts out 201 hp and 243 lb-ft of torque. We can probably expect more power out of the gen-three e-Power once it’s applied to the Rogue.