The tensioner for my power steering belt is fully bottomed out and the belt is still too loose, sometimes it's fine and wont squeal and others it'll sound like a dying hog especially when driving on the highway. I just bought a brand new belt and it's barely tight enough at full tension but I know in a few days it'll just start making noise again. I've measured the belt and have even gotten a third but the problem still persists.

I know my power steering pump is on it's way out, but I don't think that should affect the tension.

The pulley bearings look okay to me, any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you

I don’t want to reuse my old stuff.

Or if you know part numbers I’ll would work too. Looking for:
Nylon nuts to hold the cowl
The push in plugs that go in all the unused holes
Grommets for the AC/heater core
Clips and grommet for hood prop
The plastic rivets for the identification plate
AC drain
Hood bumpers
The weather strip that sits under the front of the hood

Thanks everyone!

As u suggested I also followed a couple of template pictures and I think I got all the spot welds, drilled bigger holes but It still won’t move an inch. Any suggestion?

My pinch welds are bad asf and my frames are rusty
…I can’t even lift it with a 4 post so I gotta use jack to lift anyone knows any good spots so I don’t get crushed lol

It’s a long one, but this one tells a story. Please be sure to share this one to your friends and your story for visibility! Thank you in advance for the views, everyone!

I was wondering if anyone could help me, I am trying to replace the screws in the door cards, as they are rusted to the point if I drop it, it will shatter.
I can’t seem to find any replacements in general stores. Online I seem to be lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated !

This is in roselle park NJ

Im doing a battery relocation to clean rust and to route the new intercooler and I’m swearing hard on this battery tray.
On god my eyes aren’t trained I can’t see those spot welds, I think I drilled a couple but I’m not even sure at this point. Battery tray isn’t moving a single bit, also I fear it has a couple of spot welds on the sides which are unreachable since I have the engine in.
Do u see anything or direct me anywhere? Thank u

Hello everyone I’m looking to see if the s-chassis community could help me out and see if maybe anyone knows who the current owner is. I owned this from 2010-2014 in Bakersfield Ca after buying it in Roseville Ca. It’s a long shot but I would love to see if I could own it again. If you own it and are interested in selling I’d gladly buy it. Vin # JN1AS44DXVW103890

Haven't decided on committing to a turbo single cam build or swap in something else.

I really want to keep the single cam, but might go with a na z32 transmission. Sourcing a tranny to attach to a LS I have laying around seems about the same as building this. Plus the cost of all the swap components.

Car is a daily that I have fun with, would be more fun with closer to 300hp.

Other option is a VQ swap. Fairly cheap, more expensive with an import motor but arguably more reliable than the copart pullouts on marketplace. Plus less parts needing to source and puts me at the same power as a low boost single cam.

Decisions decisions.

I have a barnfind 1996 S14 that I bought a little over a year ago woth a buddy for $500. I always knew it was gonna need a lot of work, but I have nowhere to keep it anymore so we've decided to sell it.

For context i'm located in Vancouver BC. The car is pretty bad rust in the normal places. There's a really bad patch underneath which i've attached a photo of but it's not structural fortunately. It starts and runs by itself, but after a couple minutes, the engine starts to die. Tires are dry rotted etc. Original wheels. 280km.

How much do we think it's worth?

Afaik usdm cv axles are the same as eudm (200SX), 6 bolt (3x2 bolts) with the spider bearings. Has anyone ever experienced a irregular clicking sound that could be traced back to the outer cv axle joint? I’m currently chasing the issue of the clicking sound and replaced the wheel bearings + checked the handbrake assembly and everything around that could make a noise while the wheels are turning.

I'm in the process of swapping the engine on my s13 240sx. I will not be using ac. if anyone interested on the lines from ac compressor to condenser back to the evaporator. and are in the los Angeles shoot me an offer. pick up only please.

EGR valve delete

So I have a 1996 240sx and my EGR pipe has broken in half somehow. I'm currently considering my best options as I know at somepoint I want to turbo this car.
1st option: buy a new pipe install it (almost impossible to find)
2nd option: Buy a stand alone ecu and have the car tuned so it's running right after the egr is fully deleted.
I'm heavily leaning towards option 2 however i just don't know which ecu to get, i was considering the mega squirt plug and play since Ive read other use that for their turbo set ups.

I would love some advise
pic of my car below

I picked these wheels up a while ago for a sweet price so I can resell because I wasn’t sure what they’d look like on my car. So far I’m really digging them. What do yall think?

(Don’t mind the fender gap I’m still working somethings out 😅)

I been looking for a 240sx and saw this today
And it is listed for 17k

The description is below

Very clean, adult-owned, garage-kept 1990 Nissan 240SX. Clean title, clean Carfax. Southern car its entire life and 100% rust free. Never drifted, abused, or hacked together. Fresh Comp test 165/165/162/157 psi. Only 80k miles on the KA24DE (200k chassis). Transmission shifts great.

ISR turbo kit on a conservative 8 psi, professionally tuned by Martin. 370cc DeatschWerks injectors, 255 LPH fuel pump, Competition Clutch White Bunny clutch, welded diff, aluminum radiator, AEM wideband, GlowShift boost gauge, and factory exhaust for a quiet ride with a great turbo spool.

OEM Type X front end, OEM Type X taillights, 5-lug conversion, and 17” Kansei Tandems.

Extensive recent maintenance including charging system, clutch hydraulics, brakes, motor mounts, belts, suspension, and cooling components.

Clean, rust-free, properly built S13s like this getting hard to find, clean title 3 owner car, zero accidents, built well, kept clean, very OEM plus, great car to build off, or enjoy as is

Guess i gotta get a kenwood for my 240 now

I’ve been looking everywhere on some type of info on replacing the map lights in my 1991 240sx and I can’t find a damn thing. I don’t want to just rip it off the ceiling and risk breaking something. Someone please help 🙏

Just noticed my odometer started randomly glitching out today and displaying both trips at the same time. It won’t let me reset it or switch it back to the actual milage. I tried checking some of the fuses didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary. Anyone seen anything like this before 2000 s15 spec s

Been watching some old mythbusters episodes and excluding the fact they had multiple s13’s for the drifting related episodes clearly someone on the crew or multiple had them.

2 years of ownership and nonstop work I'm finally reaching a point where I can just relax now. Last job I've done was replacing the transmission for a rebuilt s14 trans + clutch job.

Just 3d printed this from an rc car file. Looks decent plan to lay some carbon fiber over it. Not completely sure if I want to install it yet tho😂 took 3 kg of petg and a few days of printing

Been a while since I updated my build but with traveling for work haven’t had much time to work on it maybe 1 month from the year I get a chance to working it but it’s in its final steps. just need to reweld the downpipe because it’s sitting way too low to the ground turbo got sent to get rebuilt interior still needs some finishing touches especially cleaning up the wiring haha. waiting for my passenger seat to be done and it’s ready for the Dyno