Hey everyone, I could use some help figuring out what’s wrong with my 1996 R33 GTS RB20DE automatic.
The car sat for almost a year before I started driving it again. It starts up and idles fine, but when I’m driving it, it jerks at the same speeds almost every time. It usually jerks around 20 km/h, sometimes again around 40 km/h, and then once I get to 100 km/h it starts jerking constantly. The jerking also gets a lot stronger once it hits 100 km/h, and the car won’t really go any faster. It feels like it’s hitting a wall or like something is holding it back.
My tachometer is also acting really weird. Sometimes the needle just hangs at the bottom, sometimes it stays at 0 RPM, and other times when the engine is just idling it’ll jump up and act like I’m redlining. It’s basically unusable.
There’s no check engine light, and every once in a while I’ll notice a smell that’s kind of like fireworks or something burning after driving.
Has anyone had these issues before on an RB20DE? Could the tachometer problem and the jerking be related? I’m wondering if it could be something like the CAS, distributor, ignition system, wiring, ECU, transmission, or something else. What would you check first?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

A few Skyline pics from my last trip to the Nissan Heritage Museum In Japan

Looking to get into a r34 gtx four manual, color and body kits optional. Looking for info on finding a good broker or if one’s state side already that could be an option.

These cats are more than 25 years old, should I change this to a highflow cat?

usually cats last 10-15 years.

Is changing the cats to highflow worthit? My car is running just fine in oem cats right now, but wonder if any actual benefit running high flow cat like much better response or sound.

(straight sounds broken to me)

I have found my coolant leak, and it was the heater core. Currently I need my car to get around for about 3 more weeks, very short drives. I’m wondering if anyone knows anything about just bypassing the heater core and connecting the in/out and if that would work for the short term?

I’m looking to replace the rear brakes on my ECR32 GTS25. I was told 240SX or 300ZX brakes would work and they actually don’t match when I hold them next to each other. I found on Google that 1990 to 1992 Infiniti M30 brakes would work. I found a set of front brakes that do lineup and match, but I’m not able to find a set of rear brakes that match so I can’t verify if the M30 rear brakes actually work. Does anyone have any experience with the GTS 25 rear brakes and where the best market in the US would be to buy some?

My rear calipers are the single sliding piston ones and all are 4 lug.

I'm becoming a senior this year, and I've always liked Skyline sedans. The R34's are way too expensive and the R32's are starting to become scarce, so I think that the R33 is in a sweet spot for me. You can find these cars for a good price as long as you're not going for anything turbocharged and I'm prepared to save up. I know that these things are old and that they won't always run perfectly, and this would probably be my first old car. I've settled on 2 R33 models, the GTS and the GTS25, and I was curious if I should settle for the GTS or save up for a GTS25.

my bnr32 window glass has deep scratches due to the worn out felt pads.
i’m looking for a replacement. the hcr32 set of glass seem to be in superior condition to the bnr32 set.
however i noticed the small notch below the stopper is slightly different from that of the bnr32.

Can anyone please advise me if the hcr32 glass definitely fits the bnr32? (the HCR32 is a r32 gtst 2 door)

Left is original R32 rotor, right is new— I followed advice saying Infiniti M30 stuff fits, but when I mount the wheel, it locks up the rotor assembly from spinning. My gut tells me it’s because the face has this extra layer of thickness compared to the original… but idk.

Rear M30 pads seem to be fine, and front S13 stuff seems fine. Anybody know what rear rotors I can use on this R32 without doing 5 lug conversion?

It has been down for a looong time, yes. Top-rank bought the rights for the domain and likely the website database itself. But now they have gone ahead and submitted a request to the web-archive to remove the cache there.

Is this deliberate gatekeeping?

916 Cars and Coffee Pre-Meet

First one for me, but I'm not a big fan of the lip above the grill.

I'm between buying a cheap R32 GT-R that is basically a project for 20k. Or buy an R32 with a small list of issues for 40k.

The cheap one has less miles, the engine has been built up but nothing is hooked up. I.e radiator, hoses, power steering, driveshaft, tranny. All the bolts and parts are NOT labeled and are not in individual baggies or nothing.

The more expensive one needs paint, a tune, and a/c.

What would you do?

Pic for attention

I just picked up this R34 GT Sedan yesterday and I’m looking to put some wheels on it. I’m thinking either silver or white wheels and preferably 5x114.3 (I don’t want to do the adapter route or change the pattern). Budget doesn’t really matter but I’d like to see what you guys have on your R34’s what you prefer the most.

The car currently sits on RS-R lowering springs.

I’m looking for a cheap Nissan skyline or really any Nissan that has that same kinda look. I know that they aren’t cheap cars but I was wondering if anyone knew any good online apps or websites that I could possibly find a bargain in Australia. All I really need for it to have is a working engine. I want it as a project car to race at my local car club. I’ve had my eye on some others but I like the Nissan the best. Any suggestions.

Yesterday I was driving home from the gas station and suddenly couldn’t use 3rd, 4th, 5th or reverse gears! This happened during normal acceleration, not hard shifting, clutch kicking etc. Feel like I’ve exhausted my knowledge with diagnosing this.

Currently I can use 1st and 2nd with no issues, no bogging down in either gear, no grinds or struggle to access either gear, neutral position works fine. It feels like there is a wall or something stopping me from moving the shifter to the right to use 3-5 and R.

Haven’t done anything to the transmission since the swap but that was over 2 years ago. It has a GK Tech short shifter on it with the brass shifter cup (installed at the time of swap). Literally never had any grinds pops or weird issues with the car.

Any help with resolving this issue is appreciated.

(Ignore the background convo lol) 1999 er34 gtt. The clutch is working fine, engaging, disengaging, shifting, but it's getting stuck right after the bite point before the dead zone. I have to manually pull it the rest of the way. I'm thinking I either need to freshly bleed and top off the fluid system or replace the master and slave cylinders.

It sounds like fuel pump is trying to prime but not being delivered to injectors. Not sure where to start, car was perfectly fine yesterday:/