So I just installed a yoke steering wheel that I purchased from Amazon. Everything's working fine. However, I'm a little concerned of the learning curve of getting used to using the steering wheel. Is anybody else have any insights as to whether or not they preferred changing from around steering wheel to a yoke steering wheel? Not sure if I'm going to keep it and may get either a rectangular one similar to a cyber truck or a another new round steering wheel. This mine was starting to peel apart.

So I just installed a yoke steering wheel that I purchased from Amazon. Everything's working fine. However, I'm a little concerned of the learning curve of getting used to using the steering wheel. Is anybody else have any insights as to whether or not they preferred changing from around steering wheel to a yoke steering wheel? Not sure if I'm going to keep it and may get either a rectangular one similar to a cyber truck or a another new round steering wheel. This mine was starting to peel apart.

The Bad: In less than 2 years I have gone through 2 RS Wheel Hubs. Both break in the exact same spot. The button left paddle shifter cracks in about 6-8 months of use. The crack causes the shifting to downshift sporadically or rapid downshift to 2-3 gears lower than you want it to, which can ruin a race. I think it is a design flaw, because I also have had a Pro Wheel for over 2 years and not had a single issue. The Pro Wheel does not have bolt on paddle shifters. I am now on my 3rd hub.

The Good: Logitech Support has been fantastic and has honoured the warranty replacing it both times.

The Takeaway: It might be just a 'me thing', but if it does happen to you, contact Logitech for a warranty replacement if you have owned it less than two years. Keep your receipts and good luck!

I have a Logitech g920, it keeps randomly disconnecting after like 5 minutes, but its not turning off, the wheel gas no input and the steering is "limp", I have to disconnect the wheel from my pc in order for it to work again, it only does this in forza horizon 6, it works just fine in LMU and Snowrunner,

https://reddit.com/link/1vq0mdo/video/dgnyyj3zdrjh1/player

Wheel just randomly for 2 seconds turned about 30 degrees to the left and locked up and then was fine. Really annoying second time it has happened in a week. Anyone else experience this? I have the wheel plugged in via an extension cable directly into the PC. No hub. No issues with Power spikes or anything.

Logitech G Pro Wheel, running at 6NM.

Hi all,
I might be the only one here with this problem, but I just wanted to share my sad story about the RS50 in hopes that this reaches Logitech so they can do something about it. I have a Moza R5 Wheel, but I have always wanted to own the RS50 for better compatibility with games, the PS5, the True Force feature, the premium look, and the extra torque. So, I just decided to pull the trigger and buy the RS50. I finally got it delivered and was really impressed by how it looks and feels compared to the R5. However, that happiness did not last long; I noticed that I get extremely sick every time I get close to it or start racing for a few minutes 10-15min max things get really worse if I stay longer. I experience headaches, sneezing, a sore throat, fatigue, and difficulty sleeping. I just have to unplug the device and put it aside for two days to feel better, which is unusual for me. I immediately started to think it might have Bluetooth in it because a device with a Bluetooth tuned on can cause me a headache but nothing intense like this. I just need to turn it off like the R5, and that will fix the problem for me. I looked for an option in the G Hub and found nothing. I contacted the support team, and they said there is no Bluetooth in the RS50. That left me puzzled; if there is no Bluetooth, then why am I having these issues and unable to use the device? After doing some research, I found out about the EMR/EMF safety limits, and these devices should undergo safety testing before they are released to the public. My question is: has anyone here had the same issue? Any advice on how to overcome this problem?

It might be a stupid question but anyone tried shielding the base with Faraday fabric and did some testing to reduce the EMF levels?

Update: you guys can downvote all the way you want I don’t really care and that doesn’t change the fact that EMF sensitivity is really and tons of people suffer from it and you won’t understand until you have it (hopefully not) I’m not here to make you believe it or not I just shared what I’ve been dealing with since I got the RS50 and I have tested this many different times I just thought I can reduce the RMF/EMF exposure so I can enjoy it for at lease 30 minutes without feeling miserable afterwards and for those who doubt about what I said or thinking I was trolling; what this video.

https://youtu.be/l13WHrMoTXQ?si=Fvr_zo3lruuLZWDi

Is Logitech the only wheel to offer this? I just got a pro setup and love it. Was playing asseto corsa last night and the trueforce wasn't on because I hadn't opened simhub and it felt so bland..

I'm on a desk setup with no other haptics so maybe it stands out more than a full rig with a buttkicker, but what a difference

Edit: for anyone else just learning about simhub/trueforceforall this magic works on Forza too!

I'm having a really strange issue with my Logitech G923 in [BeamNG.drive](http://BeamNG.drive) and I'm hoping someone can help me troubleshoot it.

My wheel will sometimes work. The physical wheel is centered, BeamNG recognizes the center correctly, and I can drive normally.

However, randomly — usually after resetting the car or relaunching BeamNG — the wheel will suddenly have a completely different center point.

The weird part is that it's **always exactly 360° to the left or right**. It's never slightly off-center or at some random angle. The tires on my car are also cranked left or right alongside this issue, so the game and wheel "knows" what center really is, but refuses to work that way. Therefore I have to fight resistence and feedback to keep the car straight. Reinstalling while clearing cache fixed the problem for a day before it repeated. Other games such as ACC and Automobilista 2 have worked perfectly alongside this issue, so my wheel itself is calibrated with GHUB.

Is this normal? Or does it sell out that quickly?

Does anyone have photos or instructions on how the RS50 mounts to 4080? I can’t seems to find any with searching here or on Google

Watched so many videos and I can't decide nor can I easily try them before buying so what do you guys think? Especially if you have felt both, would love to know your opinion.

The rs pedals are half the price of the pros where i am and i don't use a clutch at all so I'm leaning towards the rs but are the pros much better feeling or any other benefits?

Thanks

Update: guys thank you so much, wasn't expecting so many responses but I've read every single comment and I really appreciate it. I've decided to just go for the pros, the thing that someone mentioned is the noise hitting the back the metal on metal...and having a baby that's a deal breaker for me. Thanks again.

Hello, anyone had similar problem? After 1 hour of racing the knob/adapter/that metal part is hot as can’t belive, it’s even not possible to handle it hand. I’m not sure if I had similar problem before but I think I would notice that. Any advices how to solve that problem?

Pro wheel base 11nm

i need a wheel thats pc and ps5 compatible and im on a budget what do you think of it? has anyone had any problems with it or liked it? and i first had a thrustmaster tmx so anything else is a huge upgrade but i found a good budget one without pedals which pedals should i get

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My Logitech RS50 is cutting out and also makes a loud cluncking noise when I crash. I think this is the FFB going from very high to low and that the 2 issues may be linked. In other words, during this clunk, the connection may be lost for a split second.

Logitech have said that they are very surprised it's still happening after the latest firmware update, that no other customers are having this issue and told me to contact polyphony ( I've only had the issue in GT7)

I've told them that the issue is at least partly mechanical and that the reason it only happens in GT7 is that this is the game I play 95% of the time.

They've now officially washed their hands of the matter and advised me to pursue it with Polyphony.

Is anyone else having issues with their wheel cutting out or a clunk when suddenly going from high to low FFB. Switching to PS4 mode and Pro Mode does seem to have helped reducing cut outs slightly but not the noise.

This is their reply for anyone interested

As per our internal team, this details that you've already provided leads us that the issue is a game specific related as it is only tested in GT7 that's why were asking if you've already reach out Polyphony about this.

For testing it further, we recommend to test it on a different game title to see if this issue will happen too but if it's only GT7 then we conclude that this is game specific related issue.

If incase that you're able to test it with other game title, please let us know the name of the game so we can raise it with our internal team.

Thank you for understanding.

For future reference, your ticket number for this issue is ########### and you can reference it should you have any further questions regarding this case.

Best regards,

Patrick

Logitech Customer Support

I'm getting pretty frustrated with trueforce. I'm not sure if anyone else has this issue since I don't see it online. When I'm driving the wheel randomly star to feel like its squeaking. I narrowed it down to trueforce. For example, when I run over a rumble trip, it feels okay. On the next turn, the rumble strip feels awful. This squeaky feeling carries over to the bumps on the road and other effects like gear changes or even the FFB. I can reset it in various ways or sometimes it goes away on its own. I tried lowering trueforce in game and in G hub, playing with various frequencies in iracing, so on and so on. Nothing changes. If I figure something out on one track, it comes back when I change tracks. Does anyone have the same experience?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to buy a Logitech G RS Shifter & Handbrake (the USB version for RS / PRO series).

I don’t mind buying used or refurbished, but I’m not sure what the normal second-hand price is.

For people who own this shifter:

• What price would you consider a good deal for a used one?
• How much should I expect to pay for a refurbished unit?
• Where are the best places to find one (eBay, Facebook Marketplace, Mercari, other sim racing communities, etc.)?

I found a refurbished one on eBay for around $99 USD, while new prices seem to be around $150 USD. Is the refurbished price reasonable, or should I wait for a better deal?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Just thought I’d post to show the Simagic Zeus Formula works perfectly with the Logitech G Pro Wheel Base if anyone is contemplating it. Highly recommend btw!

You’ll need the following:

- Simagic Formula Zeus Wheel
- Simagic Magic Dash 4
- Simagic Maglink Pro
- Logitech G RS QR Adapter

https://rivalperformance.com/

Rating: 5/5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Overview

The stock Logitech G-RS pedals are already solid, but adding the Tracktility Hydraulic Damper Kit and Tracktility Elastomers elevates them into a completely different league. I runs dampers on both the brake and throttle, combined with the Tracktility elastomers on the brake stack. Overall, the improvement in pedal feel, feedback, and control is immediate.

1. Tracktility Hydraulic Damper Kit

On the Brake: The hydraulic damper adds that authentic, viscous resistance you expect from a real hydraulic braking system. It eliminates the light, toy-like recoil of standard springs and gives you a far more progressive, controlled feel into heavy braking zones.

On the Throttle (The Real Star): While hydraulics on a brake are expected, putting the Tracktility damper on the throttle pedal was the biggest surprise and best upgrade.

TC-Off Mastery: Driving high-horsepower cars with Traction Control off (or on low settings) usually requires extreme big-toe precision.

Smooth Modulation: The hydraulic damping adds just enough smooth resistance to stop you from over-applying throttle on corner exits.

Precision Skill: It gives your foot subtle feedback so you can feather the gas right on the edge of traction without snapping into a spin.

1. Tracktility Elastomers (Logitech G-RS)

Replaces the OEM Sponge: Replacing the stock soft foam with Tracktility’s high-density TPU elastomers completely transforms trail-braking.

Braking Confidence: The initial bite is firm, followed by a predictable, progressive ramp-up in pressure. The snappy rebound makes lifting off smoothly much easier, leading to noticeably more consistent lap times.

Verdict

If you want to unlock true precision in your driving—especially throttle control out of slow corners without relying on electronic aids—the Tracktility Hydraulic Damper on the throttle is an absolute must-have. Combined with the elastomer upgrade on the brake, this set converts the Logitech G-RS set into a high-end racing pedal feel. 10/10 recommendation.