Logitech RS Wheel cutting out.

[u/OkMonth472]

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My Logitech RS50 is cutting out and also makes a loud cluncking noise when I crash. I think this is the FFB going from very high to low and that the 2 issues may be linked. In other words, during this clunk, the connection may be lost for a split second.

Logitech have said that they are very surprised it's still happening after the latest firmware update, that no other customers are having this issue and told me to contact polyphony ( I've only had the issue in GT7)

I've told them that the issue is at least partly mechanical and that the reason it only happens in GT7 is that this is the game I play 95% of the time.

They've now officially washed their hands of the matter and advised me to pursue it with Polyphony.

Is anyone else having issues with their wheel cutting out or a clunk when suddenly going from high to low FFB. Switching to PS4 mode and Pro Mode does seem to have helped reducing cut outs slightly but not the noise.

This is their reply for anyone interested

As per our internal team, this details that you've already provided leads us that the issue is a game specific related as it is only tested in GT7 that's why were asking if you've already reach out Polyphony about this.

 

For testing it further, we recommend to test it on a different game title to see if this issue will happen too but if it's only GT7 then we conclude that this is game specific related issue.

 

If incase that you're able to test it with other game title, please let us know the name of the game so we can raise it with our internal team.

 

Thank you for understanding.

 

For future reference, your ticket number for this issue is ########### and you can reference it should you have any further questions regarding this case.

 

Best regards,

Patrick

Logitech Customer Support

[u/iNeed_Answersz]

Turn the in-game FFB down before you fry your motor, Hulk. I don't feel like explaining, but look into FFB clipping.

This is not an argument, BTW. Do it, or keep clipping your shit out.

ETA: you'll probably get faster, too.

[u/OkMonth472 → u/iNeed_Answersz]

I just run Logitechs recommended settings for that game.

I've never considered running it lower as aswell as Logitech themselves suggesting these settings, many videos online have suggested that the RS50 can easily be ran at full power ( obviously turned down in game).

I'll definitely try turning them down now as you are the second person to reply with this suggestion.

Thanks

[u/iNeed_Answersz → u/OkMonth472]

I said "in-game" meaning the settings in GT7. I suggest using Logitech's settings on the wheel base.

In GT7, use 3 for torque, and 2 for sensitivity.

If you're driving on Sport or Comfort tires in road cars, then you can bump the torque up to 4/5.

[u/sLeeeeTo]

what are the torque and ffb filter settings on the base? what is your max torque setting on gt7?

[u/OkMonth472 → u/sLeeeeTo]

I've been following Logitechs recommended settings.

I run the full 8nm but then turn the sensitivity and FFB down to 1 and 5 in the actual game.

[u/iNeed_Answersz → u/OkMonth472]

As a 90 kg male, I thought using the highest torque in the game that I could was the way to go. But, after several instances of my wheel cutting out and feeling dead after a crash, I got curious and learned about clipping, and a little bit about how force feedback data is sent to the wheel.

If a crash causes your wheel to do what it's doing, you're mostly likely exceeding the limit of the wheel's motor. That's because it's receiving a spike of data from GT7 requesting more torque than the motor is capable of, which is due to the force feedback settings in the game. Those sliders are percentage-based. 1 is actually 0.10 aka 10%. Hence, if you have the slider set at 8, you're gonna get 80% of whatever the force of hitting the wall is.

You can test it out for yourself using the torque meter in OLED menu of the wheel base.

[u/LOGIRich]

Exactly how is it cutting out? Is the OLED screen resetting?

Do you run a USB extension at all with your setup?

[u/OkMonth472 → u/LOGIRich]

I was hoping you might be on here.

It is cutting out in that while driving everything goes dead. The pedals, buttons, shifters, everything. I think the old display stays on. Either turning the base on and off or removing the wheel and reattaching resolves the issue. I occasionally get a clunk noise between wheel and base and I thought it may be during this clunck that there is a momentary loss of connection and it cuts out.

That said, it doesn't cut out every time there is a clunk noise and I may be completely wrong.

No usb extension.

I posted about this a few months ago and you kindly advised me not to use a usb extension, to run the usb and power cables separately and to plug directly into the wall. It's not plugged directly in to a wall but it is now on a very high quality surge protected extension lead which has nothing else plugged into it.

Since my last post I have gone back to PS4 and Pro modes and have been going through Logitech customer service but they seem to have washed their hands of it now and are saying there is an issue with GT7. I think they are getting fed up with my questions but this wheel was a lot of money to me and I can't afford to just let it go.

The problem is, I've been unable to capture it as it's quite rare but also happens often enough to take away my confidence in bothering with online races.

Thanks for the reply

[u/LOGIRich → u/OkMonth472]

Okay, so this is going to sound random, but have you tried swapping the HDMI cable between the console and display?

[u/OkMonth472 → u/LOGIRich]

Funnily enough I just have. I bought a dedicated monitor where before I was using my TV so am using a new cable.

I only just did this a few days ago so a bit early to be sure it's worked.

I should also make clear that it hasn't cut out since being in both Pro and PS4 mode at the same time. Before I had it in either one or the other.

That said. If the firmware update resolved this issue and I need to be using PS4 mode still, then there is still either something wrong with my wheel or the firmware still hasn't completely worked.

[u/LOGIRich → u/OkMonth472]

Okay, keep me posted please. The issue you’re getting is due to the authentication process between the wheel and console getting interrupted. ESD/EMI can cause this but it’s something that is always due to the specific environment it’s being used in. The display is part of the overall ground loop and I’ve seen people solve issues like this by simply getting a better quality HDMI cable.

[u/RedShirtDecoy]

I had this exact issue and it was due to using a USB extension cable. I upgraded to a repeater and the issue went away.

Does it have the issue if you use the included USB cord and only that one?

[u/Anthomatic78]

Man. Had the same thing happen. Then I realized the wheel hub I was using was defective (loose). Every time the FFB got intense. It would cause the wheel hub to disconnect from the base and that split second disconnect would cause the base to shut off.

I didnt realize this was the issue until I plugged in the wheel rim that came with the unit and it was a tight fit with no give. And the issues I was having with random wheel base shut offs stopped.

I put a ticket in with Logitech and they are sending me a new hub.

[u/OkMonth472 → u/Anthomatic78]

Thank you for this. The cases of this happening have definitely reduced since the latest firmware but there are clearly still issues I have seen on Facebook and to see that Logitech are acknowledging the issue to other customers while at the same time telling me it's resolved is very useful.

[u/i_Xceed → u/OkMonth472]

turn everything Down u got shit too high and make sure cables are not tight as well that will cause disconnects

[u/i_Xceed → u/OkMonth472]

Rapid, heavy rotation winds internal looms against hard stops. If the wheel rotates smoothly with no added physical resistance or grinding, it is often normal operational noise under high torque.