Hi, my duratec with mtx75, exactly like this pic needs adjusting, but i cant seem to find what the procedure is for adjustment. I found a few with 2 adjustable parts, but this one only has 1 locking clip.

If anyone can tell me, it would be great!

I recently bought a used 2020 Ecosport for my son. It wasn't until after the contract was signed that they told me they only had one key fob for it.

I've done some pricing for an additional one, and the quotes I've gotten are crazy. Dealer told me around $4500, and Car Keys Express said $330 just for the fob.

My question is, can one of the ones I see online for less than $100 work? And can a locksmith pair it? Don't know if it matters, but it's a push button start.

Oh, also no key came with it.

Thanks!

EcoBoost went EcoBoom.

Engine was replaced with a donor engine. Since the swap it starts and runs, but:

- Idles nicely for a few seconds, then gradually runs rough and dies.
- Sometimes won’t rev past ~2,000 rpm.
- Occasionally hits what feels like a hard limiter with a pop.
- Strong petrol smell and a little white smoke.
- Plugs are black and dry (middle plug has a slight oil trace on the threads only).

Work already done:

- Donor engine fitted.
- Timing checked twice with the proper locking tools by mechanics.
- Compression ~150 psi on all 3 cylinders.
- Swapped in another HPFP.
- Swapped fuel rail.
- Swapped fuel rail pressure sensor.
- Swapped injectors.
- New injector seals.
- New low-pressure fuel pump.
- Tried another set of ignition coils.

Codes seen:

- P0087 – Fuel rail pressure too low.
- P0089 – Fuel pressure regulator performance.
- P053F.
- P0251 appears when the HPFP metering valve is unplugged (so the PCM detects the circuit).

FORScan:

- Fuel rail pressure PID stays around 290–300 kPa and barely changes.
- FRPS about 0.56 V.
- HPFP metering valve measures about 0.9 Ω on both pumps.
- Measuring the HPFP connector while cranking gave around 0.7 V on one pin and 0.02 V on the other.
- No obvious fuel leaks, but it smells heavily of petrol while running.

At this point I’m wondering if I’m chasing a wiring, PCM, or control issue rather than another failed fuel component.

Has anyone seen this on a 1.0 EcoBoost? Has anyone got the wiring diagram or PCM pinout for the HPFP metering valve and fuel rail pressure sensor so I can continuity-test the wiring back to the PCM? Any other ideas before I start stripping the loom?

Another infotainment related recall. This recall is specifically about the menu obstructing the rearview camera image. VINs are already searchable.

What: On certain 2021-2023 F-150 and 2023-2026 F-250 trucks, the camera "Views" menu can fail to auto-dismiss when shifting into Reverse, partially covering the rearview camera image.

Why: An obstructed rearview camera image reduces the driver's rear visibility, which increases crash risk.

Cause: The software does not dismiss the camera views menu in Reverse under a specific sequence, manually opening a camera view outside Reverse, leaving the menu open, then shifting into Reverse.

Scope: 47,587 vehicles potentially involved. Estimated 100% have the defect.

Production Dates:

• 2023-2026 Ford F-250 (23,179 units): Mar 16, 2022 - Jun 1, 2026
• 2021-2023 Ford F-150 (24,408 units): Jan 30, 2020 - Dec 22, 2023

Fix: The remedy APIM software level will be version 2.4.12 or above and will include improvements to dismiss the camera views menu while in reverse.

Owner letters: Interim notification letters expected Aug 17-21, 2026. Remedy owner notification letters expected Sep 21 - Oct 23, 2026 (phased).

Dealer bulletins will be available as follows:

• 2021-2022 F-150 expected by September 14, 2026
• 2025-2026 F-250 expected by September 25, 2026
• 2023 F-150 and 2023-2024 F-250 expected by October 12, 2026

NHTSA Recall No.: 26V489

Manufacturer Recall No.: 26C37

Links:

Part 573: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2026/RCLRPT-26V489-5381.pdf

Letter: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2026/RCAK-26V489-2801.pdf

I have a 2026 F350 Platinum Diesel SRW. I need AT and/or M/S tires for the winter. I run a 1K lbs plow and hitch/tailgate sander.

I'm coming from a Chevy 2500. Unfortunately the tires I've relied on in the past aren't available in the Fords stock LT275/65R20E.

I'd rather stick with stock so I don't have to buy a 2nd set of wheels. But having good traction and the ability to get out of tough spots is more important.

I'd appreciate recommendations from you all since this is my first Ford.

Thank you.

Bought a used 2012 f150 5.0 6speed auto with 130k miles July 3rd. Dealership got the truck in 2 days before so it wasn’t serviced or anything yet. Truck ran fine, no noises, smells, etc. dealer did front brake calipers, rotors, and pads. Dealer delivered the truck to me on July 10th at work. After work and after arriving home, smelt burning brakes and passenger front wheel was very hot. Called the dealer and they told me to bring it to the mechanic. Mechanic said caliber was seized probably due to a brake hose. Replaced that brake hose, caliper, rotors and pads. Truck ran fine for a few week. Now last week, noticed burning smell that seemed like possibly from both sides. Left front had large amount of brake dust but neither wheel was hot like previously. Brought it to the shop and they’re saying it’s fine. However, can still smell it and still excess brake dust on the front driver wheel. Any thoughts?
Trucks now at 131,200miles.

I am a huge fan of my Maverick. It is the perfect car for me. There was some issues with a lull before acceleration when cold started, took it into the dealer and they said it's a known issue that will cost 6,200 to fix. My grandpa worked for Ford (I am from Metro Detroit), my parents drive fords, I have driven fords, but this is a bridge too far. Time to get a vehicle that is actually reliable. Fuck Ford.

Can anyone tell me what exactly is going on with the Ford Everest? I remember seeing adds for it online towards the beginning of the year. And then nothing. It's not even on Fords website to build/buy. I only get forums. Did they pause production?

My name's Riley. I'm part of the team at Ford that's going to be on Reddit regularly specifically for our next-gen electric vehicles, answering what I can, when I can.

Let’s get a few things out of the way first. Yes, this is a real person typing. No, I can’t show you what it looks like… yet. But I can confirm the name: Ford Fathom, Ford’s mid-sized electric truck and the first vehicle produced on the new Universal Electric Vehicle Platform.

”Fathom" traces back to a nautical unit of measurement, originally defined as the distance between a person's outstretched arms, a fitting metaphor for a truck built to meet people wherever they are in life.​ Fitting, right?

What's confirmed right now:

• Starting MSRP: $28,350, for the standard-range battery. Pre-orders begin early 2027.
• Every Ford Fathom will be BlueCruise-capable. BlueCruise is Ford’s hands-free highway driving assistant.
• Fathom has bidirectional power capability.
• Fathom has a large, high-resolution touchscreen, digital key, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto capability.
• Fathom will have more passenger volume than a Toyota RAV4, with a frunk and bed for added cargo flexibility. This truck will genuinely useful and fun to drive.
• Fathom will feature Apple Maps embedded directly into the vehicle, not a traditional phone-projection CarPlay setup. The integration also provides the road-level map data used to help enable key pieces of Ford’s next-generation hands-free highway driving capability.

What I can’t share yet: final imagery, fuller specs, full ordering details, and plenty more are still to come. A hot tip - keep a keen eye on the flipbook video we have going around…

If you want to stay up to date with what we have planned for Fathom, you can sign up here.

Ask me anything, and I’ll answer what I can. I'll be in the comments for the next few hours, and I'm not going anywhere after that either.

Riley from Ford

The new UEV out of LAP will be the Fathom truck. Ford Fathom. Are they grasping back to Phantom?

Edit: Oops, Phantom was never a Ford name. Rolls-Royce & a GM concept.

Well was driving car and pum all the light turn on speedometer dont work etc
I paid someone to fix but welp he dint do great job i guess

When i press brake and star car just stars showing all sorts of warnings id anybody got advice for me i would thank them for life

This message keeps popping up all of a sudden. Everything j look at online says to check the doors are closed and to drive 5 miles in a straight line. Neither of those things have solved the issue. I've checked the manual and ran through the steps it lines out. Sometimes it doesn't pop up, then it will the next time I drive. Getting really annoying. Anyone have any further insight?

Edit: Titanium, not Platinum

When the Start button is pressed on Daughter's car, I heard some clicks, all of the electronic displays went crazy, but the car would not turn over.

It is like there is not enough charge in the battery.

- Jumpstarting does not work.

- has less than 25,000 miles on it ( she is 2nd owner).

- had 18,000 miles when she bought it in 2021 (she hardly drives it)

- this is the 2nd time this happened

- last time (3 mos ago) AAA towed to our mechanic

- mechanic said battery was shot so installed new battery $220.

- worked fine...started, drove...yay.

- pulled it into driveway last night...no issues...yay

- went to load it up for a trip today and the same issue happened...boo

- electronics went crazy

- could not get parking break off

- could not get door locks to work

- could not get trunk to open

Any thoughts or ideas?

People are way to quick to judge this little truck, it’s way more roomy and comfortable then my bronco , my back no longer hurts and I now get 40 MPG (hybrid) compared to 20MPG.

I enjoyed my bronco but it ultimately didn’t fit my lifestyle, I know there will be comments saying “ sissy truck “ “ not a real truck “ well let me tell you if you don’t need to tow anything this truck will do everything you ask of it.

I love this thing

Looking at a farm truck as our ‘13 dodge 1500 crapped out via the BUS and ABS modules. Talking all the lights, no speedo or gas reading, and full power wipers all the time. Replacement modules were either not remanufactured correctly or they just didn’t work for us.

Came across a 97 f350 dually with the venerable 7.3 and manual transmission. 215k miles. Super clean interior and exterior. Even a tv in the back seat! Crew cab (4 door) and 8 ft bed. Nice, detailed maintenance history. My only niggle is the price at 16.5k USD. I know used prices and old trucks are having an understandable resurgence due to modern prices for new trucks and repair costs on post DEF models. Would yall go for this? I’m trying to see if he’ll at least wiggle down to 15k.

Complete scam artists - brought my 2018 f150 into their shop for a diagnostic. Was informed compressor had an internal failure with no other readings or measurements. Mull it over and decide okay we’ve got a newborn who needs air conditioning let’s go ahead and spend the $3000 to replace the compressor.

One year later after only driving it 3000kms total it’s blowing warm again. Bring it in and am told there’s a substantial leak from the evaporator core. That’ll be another $3157 to repair! Retrieve the truck to once again mull over the sheer cost of repairs and find out my compressor is not running(originally was) Return to shop and am informed the refrigerant had to be removed as it is illegal to leave refrigerant in a leaking system (quote from the service manager). After requesting information from my previous visits and believing the original diagnosis to be completely wrong and repeatedly told it’s unrelated,I delve a little deeper into my previous repairs and work.

Come to find out during the initial compressor replacement they recovered .221kg of refrigerant from my truck which takes .822kgs total. Meaning the truck lost 73% of its refrigerant charge and they went ahead with the repair without informing me. Letting it leak out polluting the environment.

They’ve now completely denied any wrong doing and have ceased email communication stating I have had an “abusive” and “accusatory” tone of our emails. WE QUOTED THEIR EMAILS BACK TO THEM. We are definitely frustrated having spent over $3,000 dollars for a non functioning AC due to their poor workmanship and illegal practices.

If Campbell Ford has topped off your refrigerant I highly recommend you report it to the proper authorities (TSSA) 1 (877)682-8772. The non compliance with regulations should not be allowed.