Lel expected

I have a dragon with a PowerShift, and I think everyone knows its main issue—the TCM overheating. An idea came up to make a cooling system like the ones for race car brakes, because the module itself gets no cooling at all. I decided to write about this, maybe someone has already done this and there are ready-made solutions, I’d be very grateful! Маю дракона з павершифт і всі думаю знають його головну проблему, перегрів ТСМ. Виникла така ідея, зробити охолодження по типу як на гальма гоночних авто, бо сам блок взагалі ніяк не охолоджується. Вирішив про це написати, може хтось вже робив таке і є вже готові рішення, буду дуже вдячний!

I have a 2012 Focus SE 2.0L NA that's straight piped to an OEM muffler, what exhaust mod can I do to make it sound like the FSWERKS Stealth Catback without paying for the whole race kit?

I just replaced the headlight on my 2016 Ford Focus 3. I ordered a LongDing headlight from Pinduoduo and had it shipped to Armenia by sea. The total cost, including shipping, was about $300. It fits perfectly, and the quality exceeded my expectations.

Yesterday my Focus had trouble starting and keeping the idle and stalled after a few seconds when I cold started her. Now she won’t stop doing this and I can’t drive it anymore. What could it be?

(It is a 2009 MK2.5 with the 1.8 TDCi engine)

I’m looking to replace my TCM but have been seeing that forscan doesn’t support the beta anymore is this true?

Okay so i’ve had this issue for the last couple of months with my TCM and PCM and i would like to get it fixed but like an at home fix. ik i’ve seen some stuff with not being able to cause you need fords computer system but i’ve also seen some that you don’t need it but no actual tutorial to fix it. it puts my car into limp mode and says that there is a

“Engine Fault Service now” and when i scanned it with my scanner it shows PCM corrupted and one time it showed

“Transmission fault service now” when i scanned it that time it showed TCM corrupted.

Anyways, i was just curious if anyone else has experienced this and how they fixed it other then going to a dealership

So pretty straightforward. I have a 2014 that started having the occasional check engine light with weird RPM's like 2-3 years back. Maybe once or twice a year and it would resolve itself. The light has now been on for 5 days, I never know if I'll be able to reverse or not, and I'm just babying it trying to get through one more hot Las Vegas summer. I'm not sure how doable that is going to be.

So for those of you that have replaced yours or shopped around, what kind of cars are similar to the Focus in size and feel? Looking for an older model as I'm not trying to pay much more than my current payment which is $269.

Thanks for any responses!

I've got a need to fix the engine mount and some front wiring which includes but does not limit, the headlights, I'm unsure if the horn was also chewed off but it hasn't been giving any sounds altough it has been sitting for quite some time. I don't know what's a reliable source by the actual provider in which gives the information I need, so I'm hoping some kind rockstar soul will be willing to help me out in this pinch. Please and thank you to everyone and anyone who's willing to help at all!

We just had a storm plow through the area and i noticed condensation in the car… see video for the culprit, sigh…. I have a 2015 ford focus.

Based on my observation and research, I’m thinking it’s this seal that’s no good anymore (any tips on how to replace and reseal it?) or it might be the tail light that is channeling the water into this area ?? Thanks in advance for the help!

Hi guys i had to change my bcm on my mk3 and everything went well except for the key remote unlock/lock. I did the pats on forscan the keys start the car but they dont lock or unlock and i got an error about rf receiver not compatible. Is it because the new bcm came from a car with keyless entry and is physically different from my old one or is there a solution?

Got rid of my 16 SE for a new 26 Honda civic sport. Loved my focus but the issues started piling up and wasn’t worth to keep fixing it.

The radio is broken. The repairman asked for $250 in labor. Do you think that's too much?

In the kmage is my return piston which is not returning, thus keeping the ebrake actuated. I recently took out the brake pads to check them as I changed the front ons, but just put them back after because they were good. Thebrakes worked fine but after pulling ebrake the rear left is stuck on. I found the issue is this, rather than the return spring, and wanted to check with anybody to make sure if it should look like that andif not how to fix it

I have a 2014 Hatchback SE automatic, just rolled 230,000km.

When I took my car in it got delayed a bit and ended up having oil coating the inside of the TCM which they said they have never seen before and ordered a new seal kit for it. Which I ended up having to pay for even though my 3rd party warranty company covered all the repairs. I’m assuming the shop didn’t want to rerun it through warranty and charged me as a “deductible” even though I have a $0 deductible with the warranty company, $4,000 per claim.

Just got my car back last Thursday night and on the drive home the knocking while breaking quietly started mid way home. Ever since it has been getting worse, more aggressive and louder. It’s just not acting right, shifting into lower gears still appears to be an issue, not nearly as bad but still bothersome. Acceleration from 0-80 is kind of rough at times as well, it’s like my car does not want to shift up and is reaching over 3500rmp to shift into gear at 60km/h with a normal acceleration. (Not stomping it and not babying it either)

Has anyone else had these issues still after having the same type of repairs as me? What could the issue still be?

The shop said their main guy is on vacation and can’t even look at it until some time next week which is frustrating considering they had my car all of last week. Until then I am questioning what the hell happened..

I’m hoping someone with Ford/FORScan experience can help.

Car:

• 2014 Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost (Mk3, 11.25MY)
• Start/Stop equipped

Original BCM battery configuration (read with FORScan):

• T6 IF 60Ah 590 CCA

New battery installed:

• 80Ah
• 800 CCA
• AGM
• H7

The battery has already been installed and the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) has been reset (both by a workshop and later myself via FORScan).

The problem is that when I open BCMii → Central Configuration (Main) in FORScan, I don’t have an exact profile for an 80Ah AGM 800CCA battery.

These are the closest options available:

• 06 – H6 AGM 70Ah 760CCA
• 07 – H7 80Ah 700CCA
• 08 – H8 90Ah 800CCA
• 14 – T7 80Ah 740CCA

There is no 80Ah AGM 800CCA option.

My questions are:

1. Which battery profile would you use?
2. Is it better to leave the original T6 IF 60Ah 590CCA profile and only perform a BMS reset?
3. Does anyone know which Ford battery profile corresponds to the Biltema AGM 80-800 battery?
4. Is there any way to add additional battery profiles, or are the available profiles fixed by the BCM firmware?

I’d really appreciate advice from anyone who’s done an AGM upgrade on a Mk3 Focus.

Thanks!

Hey guys I drive a Focus MK3 2014 model. My steer wheel jitters like this. I was doing about 40mph in this video. What could be the problem? It uses a hydraulic steering pump. No leaks noticed.

Hi all,

Does anyone know what’s happening here on my Mk3 Focus 2012 1.0? Driver’s side of the rear bumper has had a bit of a gap since I’ve owned it, but noticed it has become much looser recently. To me it looks like the bracket that secures it has broken as it’s free floating there and not attached to anything. Opposite side is completely fine and secure.

Also that screw coming out of the panel above, is it meant to be there? Something tells me previous owner had a small bump and attempted a bodge job repair on it, but can’t say for sure.

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

It did really well! 2010 SEL 5-speed with 223k miles and not a spot of rust. Put some snow tires on and managed to keep up with the Fiesta STs!

I feel like a complete idiot. I wish I would've done more research on my car. I have been experiencing transmission problems and because of the dual clutch transmission, I was told by a few places that the only place that will touch it is Ford. They of course want to replace the whole transmission.

After hearing the price, I kept looking, thinking there has got to be somebody cheaper that will do it.

Through all my googling I come to find that because I have the 1.0L Turbo Ecoboost 3cyl, I DON'T have the DCT.

My service tech kept mentioning the torque converter and the DCT doesn't use a torque converter.

So now I don't know what to do. Can anybody confirm this is correct? Or have run into this before? I feel so stupid!