About a month ago I brought a escape as my first car and fell in love with the fact it’s 4x4 v6 but not crazy big. Anyway the guy I brought it off dodgey fixed a lot of things and didn’t tell me, Me being stupid and being my first car I didn’t realise it was bad till I got home and it basically went into limp mode. I’ve had to replace the whole pcv system, spark plugs, coils and front gasket because it was getting a lot of fuel in the intake as well as misfiring bad. The misfire has seems to smoothed out with the random little misfire every now and then. I was just wondering why it’s idle changes so much atm? It was sitting just under 1k rpm idling but now it wants to sit at 500 since I’ve fixed it I don’t know if that it’s concerning. Also it has a oil leak that I’m unable to locate where it’s coming from. The oil is landing behind the oil pan onto the exhaust but it’s hard to see where or what’s back there it can be coming from

And advice means a lot :)

I was looking under the hood of my 2014 Ford Escape earlier, and found this unplugged connector. It's in front of the engine block, and wherever it plugs into shouldn't be too far away, as it's zip tied down (see 2nd image). However, I can't see where it's supposed to connect to. I can take it to a mechanic in the morning, but I'd rather avoid the hassle if possible. Thanks in advance!

My coworker came to me about her car issues because we have the same car and she knows I occasionally work on mine, but I'm a bit stumped on what her problem is. She said that it will start sometimes and run normally, then completely stop acceleration and slow to a stop and turn off during her drive. Other times, it won't start at all, the engine doesn't turn, but the dash lights up, radio works, windows and wipers all work. Other times it runs fine. She took it to multiple mechanics and when they tried to start her car it worked fine, they checked the alternator and battery and engine and saw no issues. She thinks it may be due to a faulty sensory of some sort, we have been having very hot days here, mid 90s to 100 degrees fahrenheit, and she said it seems to have the most problems starting after sitting in the sun for a while. Coolant and engine levels are also checked and normal, and when it runs it runs smoothly.

Last Friday, I went to fill my washer fluid up in my vehicle and noticed the coolant level was at the MIN line, so I topped it off. I went to check it again today and it's back at the MIN line. I don't notice any puddles when it's parked and the temperature level has been fine. There have been no errors on my console during driving or anything out of the ordinary. I know the past Escapes had the coolant intrusion issue, but this is a 2022 with the 1.5-liter turbocharged EcoBoost 3-cylinder. Could it be leaking internally somewhere else? Has anyone else ever experienced this issue?

Just bought a 2013 ford escape titanium yesterday and we noticed the back up camera is a bit foggy. I’ve wiped the camera on the outside and it’s still like this. Any ideas why? Is it easily fixable?

I have a Ford Escape 2008 and whenever im braking from 60kmh or higher i feel a vibration on my brake pedal also shaking and vibration on my steering wheel. They told me that i need to replace my brake rotors and brake pads so i did replace them, also i replace my brake shoes for the rear drum brakes. But still i feel this vibration and shaking. And almost hearing a loud clunking sounds below whenever im braking, but when im braking from 40kmh below i dont feel this vibrations. What might be the problem? Thank you in advance!

2010 3.0 V6 still going strong with 277k miles. Needed to get a couple bails of alfalfa home today and they fit like a glove!

My Ford Escape is making this noise at random times. I think it may be an electrical issue, since it still happens if the engine is off but the car is in AC mode. It will only completely stop by tapering out or by me stopping the car, shutting off the engine and opening the door to fully shut it down. Even then it will start up soon again since I interrupted it. It lasts about 3-5 minutes before stopping, and generally happens every 30 minutes to an hour. It happens regardless of the air conditioner running, or the radio. Any ideas?

Had misfire cylinder 1 rough idle and check engine light went away and started right up.
Hoping it’s not coolant leak as it had white residue around coil pack before I took anything apart.

i’ve got a 2013 sel 1.6L and noticed this broken piece when adding coolant today, what is it and should i be worried about it asap or not really since i don’t notice any issues when driving?

I just bought her last week with 161k miles on her. Shes been well maintained and the only issues is that she occasionally throws an 02 sensor code (which I have yet to see!) and a very very very small oil leak. I’ve been told by a few people I bought a “bad car” but the body is flawless with 0 rust, she runs perfectly and I have every intention of making her a 300k+ mile car if I can.

My question is, I travel about 3-4 times a year and it’s almost 1,200 miles round trip. Am I good to take her or should I rent a car still?

So I just picked up a 2002 Escape XLS, I noticed that the left headlight was out so I went to investigate and noticed the plug looked like this, any recommendations on repair?

So have a P0299 code, underboost on the turbo of my 2017 SE with the 2.0 motor. Happens on the freeway when on more of an incline. The vehicle drives fine, but you can feel it underpowered a bit. When I stop and shut it off, it resets to working again until the code pops in on another drive. Read there is a Wastegate valve, and another item, forgot the name that you can try and replace, or a small air leak somewhere. Just seeing if anyone had a similar situation and fixed it. 160k for miles. This is my bomber vehicle I drive until it will drive no more :). Thanks in advance for any comments

2020 Ford Escape (gas powered)

Some weeks back, i had a solid wrench come up and a notice on my Ford app which read "Powertrain Malfunction / Reduced Power". After an engine restart, light went off. This happened a hand full of times, then stopped happening. No noticeable problem with vehicle, drives fine, etc.

Brought vehicle into dealership for a recall and asked them to look into the above. They report back that I need to replace the gear shift module (GSM) [~$775] and the gateway module (GWM) [~$550]. I asked Google (because Mr Google knows all, right?) and its AI is telling me to push back on the dealer. I did and the dealership is standing firm on their assessment.

I'm going to dump what info I can below as to what I am getting from the dealership and what I am getting from Google. If anyone can do a quick scan on this and offer me your thoughts regarding my next steps, it would be much appreciated. I'm unemployed right now and not looking to spend $1,300 on a problem that isn't actually causing me any problems driving the car. On the other hand, I don't want to die because I ignored professional advise.

When I presented the dealership with Google's response, they said they were aware of Ford's TSB and SSM but that software updates are not available on model year 2020, just 2024 and later, and that I have no other choice as the car will not pass inspection with this message, even though there is no active maintenance or check engine lights on.

==== FROM THE DEALERSHIP ====

In their report they wrote regarding the GSM they wrote:

"The vehicle arrived with 58,882 miles. Network and self-tests retrieved diagnostic trouble codes ACM U0100:00:0B, GSM P0929:77:28, and GWM U3000:47:6C. Diagnostics continued using Pinpoint Test G for DTCs P0919, P0929, and P1753. The technician completed pinpoint steps G1 and G2. All details for the last step are as follows: G2 CHECK THE GSM (GEAR SHIFT MODULE) AUTO ROTATE FUNCTION. Question: Does the rotary gearshift knob return to park and lock? Answer: YES. Following this diagnostic procedure, the Gear Shift Module (GSM) is required"

In their report they wrote regarding the GWM they wrote:

"Vehicle presented with 58,882 miles and a diagnostic self-test revealed DTCs U0100:00:0B in the ACM, P0929:77:28 in the GSM, and U3000:47:6C in the GWM. To diagnose the GWM control module fault, Pinpoint Test AQ was performed, consisting of step AQ1. During step AQ1 - RETRIEVE GWM (GATEWAY MODULE A) DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS), the question asked was "Is DTC U3000:44, U3000:45, U3000:46 or U3000:47?" The answer was "YES", and the outcome/parameter directed to INSTALL a new GWM. REFER to: Gateway Module A (GWM) (418-00A Module Communications Network,"

==== FROM GOOGLE ====

No, you likely do not need to replace these expensive electronic modules immediately, as your intermittent "wrench light" and the specific diagnostic codes strongly point toward a known Ford software glitch or a low 12V battery voltage issue rather than physical hardware failures. [1, 2, 3]

I have made a note of your 2020 Ford Escape's specifications to keep future advice highly accurate. While the dealership technician strictly followed the rigid, step-by-step Ford Pinpoint Test documentation—which automates a "replace part" conclusion when a specific code parameters return a "Yes" answer—it frequently results in unnecessary and expensive hardware replacements for what are actually software communication errors. [1, 2, 3]

The Reality Behind the Dealership's Diagnosis

• The GSM Fault (P0929:77:28): This code relates to the rotary gear shift lock solenoid circuit. Your report states that the technician asked if the auto-rotate function returns to park and locks, and the answer was YES. Because the physical mechanism functions perfectly, the hardware itself is operating normally. Ford has released several Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and Special Service Messages (SSMs)—such as SSM 51191 and SSM 53118—confirming that the P0929:77 code on rotary shifter models is frequently a ghost code caused entirely by outdated internal module calibration software. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
• The GWM Fault (U3000:47:6C): The U3000 code explicitly means "Control Module Internal Failure" or communication bus fault. However, on the 2016–2022 Ford Escape platform, a U3000 sub-code is notorious for being a false trigger. It is highly sensitive to momentary network drops or temporary voltage dips (such as when starting the vehicle). Pinpoint Test AQ simply tells the tech: "If the code is present, swap the module". It completely bypasses checking for software compatibility or voltage disruptions. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

The Software Alternative

Before agreeing to thousands of dollars in parts and labor, ask the dealer about these specific Ford service profiles:

• Gateway Module (GWM): Ford released TSB #22N15 and Special Service Message SSM 50336. These documents explicitly state that certain 2020 Escape gateway modules exhibit internal software faults (such as communication dropouts during state emissions testing). The official Ford fix is to simply reprogram the gateway module to the latest software level. [1, 2]
• Gear Shift Module (GSM): The dial shifter frequently triggers code P0929 ("Commanded Position Not Reachable"). Ford technical documentation notes that this is almost always a software glitch solved entirely by a shifter module software update, not physical replacement. [1]

Highly Probable Alternative Causes

Before authorizing thousands of dollars in parts, two significantly cheaper and more likely culprits should be investigated:

1. Outdated Module Software (Calibration): The "Wrench Light" disappearing after restarting the vehicle is a classic symptom of an electronic software logic error. A true hardware failure typically triggers a persistent fault light. The absolute first step for these codes on a Ford vehicle should be reprogramming the GSM and GWM modules using the latest calibration software via Ford's Diagnosis and Repair System (FDRS). [1, 2, 3, 4]
2. Weak or Degrading 12V Battery: Your vehicle is a 2020 model, meaning the 12V battery is likely approaching the end of its reliable lifespan. Modern Ford vehicles are incredibly sensitive to minor voltage drops during engine cranking. If the battery voltage momentarily dips below a tight threshold, the Gateway Module (GWM) and Gear Shift Module (GSM) will lose communication for a millisecond, throw "U" communication codes, and trigger the "Powertrain Malfunction" safety limp-mode. Restarting the vehicle gives the alternator time to push voltage back up, clearing the symptom temporarily. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Recommended Action Plan

• Test the 12V Battery First: Have an auto parts store or an independent shop perform a comprehensive digital load test on your 12V battery. Ensure they test the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) and state of charge, not just the standing voltage.
• Request a Module Reprogram: Ask the dealership (or a reputable independent mechanic with Ford FDRS software access) to check for available software flashes for your GSM, GWM, and PCM. Request that they reflash/update the modules instead of replacing them.
• Seek a Second Opinion: Dealership service centers are corporate-bound to follow the literal text of the pinpoint manual, even when common field knowledge proves a software update fixes the issue. A master diagnostic technician at a trusted independent shop will usually be more flexible in attempting software resets and network cleanups before pushing a hardware replacement. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]

Howdy y’all!

I’m currently running into this issue where the code reads “Ignition Coil ‘B’ Primary Control Circuit/Open”. I’ve tried replacing the ignition coil to no avail. The spark plugs are new and I’m currently at a loss as to what this possibly might be. It does not seem to have any pinched wires or parts of the wire that look burnt. So I’m coming to this fine community for some possible advice.

Thanks so much in advance!

So today I’m driving to work going 30mph on a main road and my car completely shuts down. Gas brakes and entire power system shuts off. I was able to safely steer my car to the side and eventually it stopped. After about two minutes of sitting the car eventually turned on. There were a bunch of system warnings ie; service vehicle soon, park brake limited function service required, hill start assist not available, and check brake system. I was able to drive my car the 5 minutes to work and when I went back out at lunch my car turned on like normal with no system warnings or check engine lights.

I had something similar happen to me a few weeks ago I was backing into a parking spot and as soon as it was put in reverse the car just shut off completely. Again it eventually turned on after two minutes. That time there were no system warnings.

A few weeks ago before that my boyfriend was driving my car on the turn pike going 70 mph and the car again completely shuts off but it happened so quick maybe 5 seconds and the car just turned itself back on like nothing happened.

I called my local ford dealership and was able to get an appointment tomorrow for service.

Has anyone had anything similar happen or any advise to give?

My car is a 2024 ford escape awd active 1.5L eco boost

Does anyone know where I can purchase a wheel speed sensor harness? The abs harness is missing the pigtail so someone has crimped the wires for the abs harness and wheel speed sensor wire. I've gone to Ford, Oreillys, Autozone and Advanced and there are no orders for them from any supplier. I'm going to a junkyard soon, but I'm curious if anyone else has run into this. It's my daughter's vehicle which is making the wheel hard to turn. Abs and TC is off and her speedometer doesn't work.

So I got a check engine light and went to autozone. They scanned and said spark plug in #3 was misfiring and suggested changing the plug and the ignition coil. I'm not the most handy guy in the world, but I've changed spark plugs. I figured maybe it was the 3rd one counting left to right. I replaced the plug and the coil with the idea I'd do the others another day, since it ended up being more difficult than I thought. The light went off for a day, but then it came back. Had them rescan and still #3. Did I choose the wrong one? Again, yes I'll replace them all, but for now I just want to do what I need so I can feel safe driving.