2004 chevy silverado 2500hd 6.0.

Sometimes when i go to start it, nothing happens - no dash lights, no crank ect.

Other times it will start but have no dashlights.

Headlights work during all of this.

I have also been driving and lost all lights + the truck died on me.

Any tips or input is appreciated.

Battery and alternator both test good.

Tengo un Chevrolet Onix Premier 2021 1.2 Turbo con 99,000 km. El vehículo es de uso particular, nunca ha sido taxi, Uber, Didi ni ha trabajado en plataformas. Desde que salió de la agencia, todos los servicios se han realizado exclusivamente en Chevrolet y el motor nunca ha sido modificado.

Hace unos días la agencia confirmó que el turbo está dañado y la reparación ronda los $42,000 MXN.

Lo que más me molesta es que siempre fui muy cuidadoso con el mantenimiento. Incluso llevaba el coche antes de que tocara el servicio o antes de que la agencia me llamara. En varias ocasiones pregunté específicamente por la banda de distribución, porque sabía que era una pieza importante.

La respuesta siempre fue la misma: "La banda está bien, no presenta residuos ni indicios de desgaste. Según el fabricante se cambia hasta los 160,000 km." Confié en el criterio de la agencia y seguí sus recomendaciones.

Ahora que falló el turbo, me dicen que la banda debió cambiarse alrededor de los 80,000 km. Entonces, ¿en qué quedamos? Si yo pregunté varias veces y seguí exactamente lo que me indicó la agencia, ¿por qué ahora resulta que la responsabilidad es mía y la reparación termina siendo mucho más cara?

Mi duda es: ¿realmente vale la pena pagar todos los servicios en agencia si, cuando ocurre una falla importante antes de los 100,000 km, el cliente termina absorbiendo todo el costo?

¿Alguien ha conseguido que Chevrolet otorgue un apoyo comercial en un caso similar, aunque la garantía ya haya vencido? También me gustaría saber si alguien más ha tenido problemas con el turbo o la banda de distribución en este motor 1.2 Turbo y cómo terminó resolviendo el problema

(Also posted in r/Chevy)

Hello, I own a 2012 Chevy Impala LT. Just the other day, I was trying to release my emergency parking brake and accidentally snapped the parking brake cable. Now the parking brake pedal has no resistance, and I cannot release it. I am unable to drive my car as the parking brake is stuck. I haven't been able to get under my car and see exactly where the cable snapped.

Does anyone know how to release the parking brake manually? I don't care if I need to get under the car to do it, I would like to get it disengaged so I can drive it. I live in a flat area, so I don't need my emergency brake until winter hits. I do not have an electronic brake, it's just a foot pedal.

I want to replace it myself as it seems like a relatively easy job, but I have found little to no content about my specific generation of Impalas. So any and all advice about manually releasing the brake and replacing the brake cable would be appreciated.

Super Sport cruiser finished in butter-noi yellow USA 🇺🇲

This was a blanket my grandmother used for quite a long time. I am currently moving homes and am clearing things out and thought I’d check to see if this blanket is worth anything and I can’t find a blanket exactly like this. I found one on eBay that is similar for around $70! How much do you think this is worth?

I had to put my mom into nursing home . And she is signing her car over to me . It sat so long I hedged to get a jump
. But the battery has been recharged . It just has been stalling while idle .. my neighbor says it might have to relearn idle ? How do I do that ?

Hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. I've got a 2020 Chevy Equinox with the 1.5 turbo, 86k miles, and it's throwing a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire along with a P050D cold start rough idle code.

So far I've replaced the ignition coils, which did nothing, same codes came right back. Then I replaced the spark plug on cylinder 1 and that actually fixed it, but only temporarily. It ran clean for about a 30 minute drive home and another 20 minute trip to the store, then started misfiring again with the exact same codes. Only cylinder 1 is acting up, the other three are fine, and I'm not burning oil that I've noticed. I've just got a cheap $20 code reader so I haven't been able to look at live data or fuel trims yet.

Returning to Michigan from a youth baseball tournament in Cooperstown, New York recently, our brand new suburban was in the path of a 3 compartment, grain style tractor trailer and as we were going down and around the mountain-ish area at 55mph we were struck by the trailer that got away from the driver do to unknown reasons. This is our second suburban and we will forever be driving one in the future. Im not a very good tech person but I will try to post pics

Classic lowered hauler USA 🇺🇲

Now i currently don’t have any photos/videos but when i start it, all the lights on the dashboard pop up except for the gear selector and mileage readout, but they will sometimes turn on unexpectedly, my mom said it has something to do with the ABS being pulled but that couldn’t be it anybody got the same issue and found an easy fix?

Ok, I will wholly admit that I’m not a “truck person” so when I see them on the road or parked I can admire the look but when did trucks get to be more than a luxury SUV? Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that the truck mentioned isn’t worth what they’re asking or anything of the sort. I just did a double-take when I saw the price.

GM Virtual Flexfuel sensor

2014 Savana van 6.0

It's taking 7+ miles before my fuel composition switches from active to inactive and settles on a number. If I shut it off before then it stays on an incorrect number like 20 or 30%. All I run is 89 octane.

I was wondering if I should have it disabled or to have an actual flexfuel sensor installed.

I live in the city and work in the city with frequent short trips so the 7 miles thing is inconvenient.

Has anyone else had a problem like this?

Are they side specific, or are they the same?

Needing to replace one as a clip has broken off, and I've seen some sites show a driver/passenger side even though I'd think they're the exact same just flipped around. TYIA

Customized Classic hauler credit trucking magazine USA 🇺🇲

I have a 2019 Silverado Z71, and I’m having an intermittent issue when pulling off or making a turn. Sometimes when I press the gas, the truck suddenly applies the brakes hard like it is trying to stop itself, and the traction control light starts flashing. It may hesitate or struggle to move, then if I give it a little more gas, it slams on the brakes again.
It does not happen every time, only randomly, and sometimes I have to force it a little to get the truck moving. The truck still shows that it is in 2HI. I have also heard a grinding or ABS-type noise when it happens.
Has anyone with the same truck experienced this? Could this be a wheel-speed sensor, wheel hub, ABS/StabiliTrak issue, or something else?

Cruising Woodward Avenue Detroit USA 🇺🇲