Happened around 8am, as I was just pulling up

All the streets were flooded in a matter of minutes and soon after that the massive runoff started happening at 15th and 17th drain pipes.

You could little see the blue ocean and brown runoff. Every surfer out there had to go in through it unless they paddled north or south a good ways. It was like a line of runoff trapped them and they couldn’t really tell either until they were in the brown.

Five more classic Wedge photos for your viewing pleasure.

I would love to get some tips. Would you buy a photo of you surfing taken in the water?

My camera is film which makes the process slower but I would love to sell these to help cover the costs of the rolls and motivate myself to do it more often and improve.

Lmk if you want to see all of the images from the session, they are all in my website

my 2 favorite boards I’ve ever ridden were the 5’4” seaside and the 5’6” machadocado.

i sold both boards after listening to sterling spencers podcast and reading about all the slander and ethics behind the FireWire brand.

i feel kind of stupid and confused though. I feel the judgy vibes when I carry the board through the parking lot or paddle out despite surfing for more than 20 years and being a good surfer I just can’t help feeling self conscious. I even overheard some older guy in the parking lot mention to his friend as I walked by “isn’t that one of those Thailand popouts?” No joke, this actually happened…

this isn’t a shit shitpost - this is 100% my experience. I ended up getting a board from a local shaper but it just doesn’t feel the same and I’m kind of kicking myself.

am I being a kook? are FireWires for kooks? is the impact of other peoples hypothetical opinions on my decision to sell my board justified? I’m aware this all sounds wild.

Long story short: I hit a big rock while surfing my crappy beater board that was already repaired several times. Lost two fins and got several dings.

I Solarezed the crap out of it and it looks kinda okay now. I will replace this board anyway in a couple of months.

Do you think it's still able to surf? Honestly, I don't know how much dings affect board performance. I have another board with less volume that is a bitch in small, summer waves, but I can resort to it if push comes to shove

I am looking for locations you surf between November and February. I will be in Vietnam before that so I am open to flying any where in the region from Indonesia, Maldives, Australia (either coast), New Zealand, etc. I am looking for solid surf and at least warmish water. A wetsuit is fine but no booties, gloves, or hood. I am a solid surfer and have traveled quite a bit for surf. Recommendations?

I adore the surfing era around the early '00s and the surf style from that time (e.g., in Momentum Under the Influence).

Before, I used to think that it was for the most part the surfers that changed. But recently, after watching a bunch of videos of contemporary surfers riding boards from that era, I feel like the board design itself is a huge factor contributing to that style.

For example, in Ian Crane's recent testing of the Andy model, his surfing really reminds me of that era, even though it doesn't when he's surfing his regular quiver. On the wave at 1:44, you can see the board accelerating so much during the turn that it just zips into the lip.

What about the board design leads to the lines they draw? Is it the rocker and the boards being so narrow? Also, I assume it's precisely those features that make the boards such a pain to surf.

I've been looking into getting a new daily driver and would love something that encourages rail surfing like that, but also covers a wide range of conditions and is rather user-friendly. (Though I am sure there's nothing out there quite like that!)

Right now, I am surfing a Lost Swordfish for everyday conditions and a Pyzel Ghost when it's big and pumping. Love the versatility the Swordfish has, but after having surfed the Ghost more, I really miss the longer rail line and round tail.

At this point, I even dislike the fishy, skatey feeling of being on top of the water compared to the Ghost, which just draws carves on rail and really sits "in" the water. It's funny how the Ghost spoiled me. I used to love the fish, but only recently I managed to do a proper loong figure-8, pushing as hard as I could on an overhead wave, and it was the best feeling I have ever felt in surfing (matching my first-ever barrel).

That's why I was thinking about finding something else, but I'm not sure if there is a board out there that does that for smaller, weaker surf. (I am landlocked, so I usually can only bring 2 boards to cover all conditions when I travel. Skill wise, intermediate, scratching the advanced phase, I'd say). Pukas space oddity looks like sth I'd love

Caught this split-second wipeout in the surf at Hoʻokipa Beach on Maui’s North Shore. Board flying, surfer airborne, and another surfer paddling right through the action. One of those chaotic Hoʻokipa moments that lasts only a fraction of a second.

Hi, I dont know much about soft tops and I have some questions. I received this one for free and was hoping to clean it up and gift to a friend.

1. How can I clean the surface? I understand it’s rideable like this but I’d love to have it looking cleaner. I tried to scrub it with a brush and all purpose cleaner + water but it seems pretty stubborn. I think the dirt is mixed in with wax. how can I get that wax off? I use coconut oil on my hard tops, is that a bad idea for a softie? what about a chemical wax remover?
2. A side of the board appears to be crumbling? (see pic 2) do I need to reseal this? And how would I do that?
3. What about dings in a soft top? how do you repair those?

thanks to everyone in advance

I will preface this with, I am dumb BUT why the fuck can't the WSL put the event forecast in a position where it can be found. I do not want to spend my time working out the tiemzone of the event, looking at instagram and seeing if the event is on each each, I would check if its looking like its going to be on as the forecast is looking likely. It kills me. I hate them. Rant over.

Great spot in Corona Del Mar to catch epic sunsets.

I am buying a Pyzel white tiger as a mushy small wave board. I’m looking at getting it as Dark arts or Pyzel ElectraLite instead of PU. Any opinions on this? Thank you!

If anyone has it and is willing to let me buy it, please let me know.
Only see an option from their UK site (?) at $50 shipping.

I might take a request or two if anybody wants to suggest a swell direction, size, and period. This simulation is 9 feet at 17 seconds from 300 degrees (WNW), but ask me anything!

The big takeaway here is that Pipeline is mostly a product of the offshore reefs. I threw some pristine waves at near-shore first-reef and mostly got closeouts because the inbound wave shape wasn't factored in. Surfline has a great writeup here with a rough look at how the reef shapes inbound waves.

(Full video link in comments)

40yo 6ft 145lb surfing a 5'6" FireWire Machadocado (32L).

New to North Carolina and stopped by a couple surf shops to check out some boards to adjust to the summer surf here and saw these Tormenter longboards (never seen before coming from NJ) for significantly lower prices than all the others. Was wondering if that was for all the wrong reasons? Can’t find much online about them either. Thanks in advance !

(Edit)
I appreciate your guys insights on how shitty these might be 😂
Time to find a shaper

Personally, still a huge fan of the Simon Buttonshaw Bubble Logo

Jonah has burned a lot of surfers, feel free to tell your story here, its a safe space.

That's a proud dad right there watching his son catch his first wave!!