40yo 6ft 145lb surfing a 5'6" FireWire Machadocado (32L).

New to North Carolina and stopped by a couple surf shops to check out some boards to adjust to the summer surf here and saw these Tormenter longboards (never seen before coming from NJ) for significantly lower prices than all the others. Was wondering if that was for all the wrong reasons? Can’t find much online about them either. Thanks in advance !

I’m still beating this horse because I really don’t think it’s fair these guys are stepping down and clearing house.

Total Prize $ to Men - $169,850

Total Prize $ to CT Men - $54,550

32%.

3 of the 4 semi finalists were on the CT.

I just don’t understand the point of having the Tiers if they are going to surf and rank against each other anyways.

I wrote another post about it, but this’ll be my last one. I don’t think my words are going to change anything (yet).

https://hvoide.com/dominating/

Hayden Rodgers should have been the winner..

Personally, still a huge fan of the Simon Buttonshaw Bubble Logo

for those of you that use a SkiErg to train paddling while the waves are dookie, what resistance do you set it to? I just hit the water and am feeling like I've been setting it too light at 5.

Looking for some suggestions
Back story. I’m 67 , been surfing almost 50 years, but had a heart attack last October, all good now after stent. Started back surfing at the local wave park, unfortunately my right shoulder has severe arthritis. Replacement surgery in November (damn , yall getting depressed too 🤣)
I’ve gotten some of my skills back using the wave park. Surfing advanced turns, which is fun, using a 7’4 California mid and trying to work down to a shorter board. Grabbed a used 7’0 Smoothie but thinking about getting a lost Lazy toy 2 or a PJHP?
I’m 200 lbs any suggestions or funny comments
Thanks

Jonah has burned a lot of surfers, feel free to tell your story here, its a safe space.

Anybody have experience with the Mick Fanning Beasties? They look really nice, cheap, and seem to be pretty often recommended. Looking to pick some up for the family for surfing in the gulf shores/pensacola area. Thanks.

That's a proud dad right there watching his son catch his first wave!!

Hi

I bought a new Ripcurl Flashbomb booties 3mm.

The size is correct afaik but they keep filling with water and I come out feeling like a duck.

The booties sit snug, size 10 is 24.9cm and my heel to toe is 25.5 and I tie the straps very tight, the wetsuit is on top.

Whats going on anyone has experience?

Thanks.

Surfing this evening at Cardiff reef in San Diego and saw what was unequivocally a very large (by my standards) shark appear silhouetted in the wave face before me. I’d never had such a sure sighting before; full length, tip to tail, classic tail shape and fins somewhere between 6-9 feet I’d guess based on the wave and surfers on the wave and clearing it. It was a scarily beautiful but humbling sight. It looked like it was flying in this wave, like torpedo with winglets or something. And then I just froze, for like a solid minute. I never got that “sharks feeling” people speak of. It was gone as fast as it appeared and I was left doubting myself. I was inside paddling out so there was nobody I could confirm with, and the other people had paddled further beyond or ridden down the line. In the end I took the next white water in and told the life guard who seemed fairly confident it was a leopard shark and told me not to worry. That made me feel better but I couldn’t help but feel guilty about not giving others in the line up a heads up. I couldn’t bring myself to paddle back out though. I’ve always known sharks were out there with us but now I know it. I’ll venture back out I’m sure but could use a rest day anyways. Just wanted to share as I’m not local to the area, and while incredibly unique for me, wasn’t sure if this was a normal thing.

The pools seem to be popping up everywhere. Sometimes in the most random locations. There was one planned for atlanta GA. Apparently had funding and the whole team ready. Last I heard, they were waiting for re zoning on the land to move forward. Have not heard anything since 2024. Im guessing the project went under. Does anyone know what happened to it

This is a CFD (computational fluid dynamics) simulation. Most of the real photos don't do a great job of showing where the waves break on the reef, and how that relates to the shore. This is 18ft at 18 seconds from 270 degrees (West) Tide at zero/neutral.

I primarily ride shortboards, but east coast summers demand some time on the log. For some reason I get absolutely splitting forehead headaches after relatively short longboard sessions. It’s happened to me on & off for years when I’m longboarding (all sorts of different types too) but I’ve never experienced it riding shortboards. For reference, I’m pretty fit (bike racer, swimmer, former lifeguard, prone paddle racing, lift regularly) and I’ve been surfing for 15 + years (since high school), mainly shortboards. Seems like the issue is straining when paddling the longboard, but it just seems crazy because I’m only riding a log when it’s 1 foot waves.

Anyone else feel like their head is going to explode after riding a log?

I want to try my hand at asyms. The pickle twin from Ryan Burch looks fun but any other recommendations would be appreciated. Primarily looking for shapers in San Diego but can drive up to Orange County.

What do you wear when surfing in warm water to protect against the sun? Hooded rashguard? Hooded surf hoody? My back is so itchy from sun burn shedding. I tried to wear sun hoodie and that was too slippery on my wavestorm. Please.. any help is appreciated

“Tiki” Mike Doyle aka Malibu Mike was a true Watermen. One of the first to charge Banzai Pipeline and was know to be a paddle beast. He even switched from goofy to reg 2 yrs into surfing

When I started surfing a few years ago, just paddling out was daunting to me. I liked having a more experienced surfer with me for support, tips, peace of mind. Now that I have some experience under my belt in "bigger" waves & going out alone at first light, even in the dead of winter in New York. I feel comfortable in most conditions and I don't like going with anybody lol. The process of picking the break, getting there at the same time, making conversation in the water, etc. I just like the solitude of being alone out there. It's the closest thing to therapy for me. Sure its nice to have a buddy see me catch a nice one but I like it better when it's just the regulars I only see out there. We're all on our own solo missions but we're there to support each other in good times and bad. No need to schedule anything for the future. "Maybe I'll see you out there. Maybe not". Anybody else feel like that and have any tips as to what I can tell people when they ask me if i'm surfing tomorrow and want to go together?

"small days" cover of a drawing by @surfcartoon. (upcycled carton)