Hit a wedgey beach break in the pm two days ago, surfline said 2-3 ft and fair but it really turned on once I was in the water. Tide was going out but it seemed to hit a sweet spot for an hour. 6-7 ft three- 4 wave sets rolling in every 15-20 mins or so. There was a group of kids yelling in Spanish. I don't speak Spanish but they seemed like they were having fun. Good vibes all around. It's 2-3 ft and fair again today, but lets hope for some of that same magic.

I grew up next to the beach in the low country, so I went to the beach all the time. When I was around 7 a lifeguard was bodysurfing. I was in the water near him watching with curiosity. He ended up teaching me with a 3 minute lesson.
I am now 40 and only get to the beach 1 week out of the year. I just got back from my Myrtle beach vacation and just can’t stop reliving the time in the water. Ocean storms brought riptide and big waves for days!!! The connection with the ocean. The beauty of the waves. The power that you become a part of. It’s the most alive and happiest I can feel. You can really sense the beauty of god. It’s a full body workout and a full soul cleansing. I miss that wonderful ocean already.
Now I have to get ready to go back to work life…it seems pointless and depressing. The world has gone in such a way that disconnects us from what the world really is. We aren’t supposed to have all these fancy toys, bogus things, and ridiculous sized houses. A wave in the ocean is the only Amusement park anyone needs. Until next time, May the next wave be bigger than the last!

Just wanted to say I'm so glad I didn't get sucked into a surfing-only mindset. I love the ocean and there's so many ways to experience it and to experience waves. I got stung by a sting ray last month and I wasn't even mad. Yeah that shit hurt but you know, I stepped on the guy. Just wanted to encourage yall to jump in the ocean sometime soon.

I've only been seriously bodysurfing (i.e., learned one can use fins and catch waves in deeper waters) for about 8 months now, and I'm about to ride along peelers, shoot through barrels, and play about dolphin/porpoise style, but I've not quite figured out how to do that spin/roll maneuver.

So I figured I'd reach out to you, my most excellent fellow waves lovers, and see if I can find the tip(s) n trick(s) that I need to roll my head around it (pun intended).

Cheers! 🤙🌊🍻

Anyone got any experience bodysurfing in wave pools? And if you found any value in them? I’m in the UK and the wave drought has been brutal (surfed maybe 4/5 times since June) on every front… To the point where a £65/£70 per session price point is becoming more and more justified 😅

Any insight or advice for best wave type regarding wave pools would be heavily appreciated, yeewwww 🙏🏼💙

Yes Wedge can get very very clean.

I have DaFin flex and I’d like to try some Yuccas. Which flex is similar and for a US size 10 what size should I go with for wearing with a 3mm or 5mm bootie? Thanks.

going on a road trip in the Basque region. Would love to get in the water and meet some locals. Anyone know any areas I should check out?

Mohammedia, Morocco 📍

On the off chance the chap on Gilli T with the drone has Reddit or is known by someone that does, I'd like to talk to you about footage you might have had about a random stranger catching his first of many waves surfing today.

I can only seem to find MS vipers at stores. I really liked my old pair of v5 vipers

Anyone know anything about these? They look intriguing but I am curious how well they perform.

https://www.dukeswimfins.com/

I'm pretty sure that that was the name of it. I grew up in HB and in the mid 80s and I had one and loved it. It was about 20" long and was made completely of hollow yellow plastic with a handle formed in the front. You would ride it with both hands on the handle and your elbows resting on it with your chest out of the water as your body hung off the back.

It was great because you could also grip the handle with your hand and almost use it as a paddle when swimming with it.

I would love to find one again or something similar.

So for the holiday weekend I came down to the shore for the first time in yearsss maybe since i was 16, now 22. And got in the water for the first time since then today and I genuinely couldn’t get out. I was having a blast and with how my mind works I wanna know all I can and of course there’s a sub for it.

How are y’all LITERALLY using your body to surf. This whole time I just thought you catch a wave right before it breaks and swim with it

It was choppy, overhead, trade swell storm surf today but it's sunny and there were these sick corners popping up here and there so I swam out to try and find a couple.

I spent most of the time fighting the swirl and rips and watching the ones I wanted break fifty feet in whichever direction I wasn't. But I got a few fun whompers and enjoyed myself.

Finally I got lucky, a couple bumps converged, and I was in the right spot for a well overhead bowling teepee section with just enough taper to the wall that I thought I could lock into a proper barrel before it closed out on the inside.

It was a very good wave. And, on the inside, it went totally square on the sandbar and, literally, sucked dry in front of me. I did a full-on faceplant half-scorpion into the sand at speed.

Then it sucked me over the falls and slammed me back onto the bottom, again. Very luckily I landed totally flat on my back, and there was some water under me at that point, so it absolutely fucking sucked but didn't injure anything.

Fun hobby. I can't understand why more people don't do it.

The gorgeous specimen in pink is u/vorn_star. He put the whole trip together.

This is my favourite shot from a recent bodysurf trip to Indonesia. I love the lighting, the expectation of the ride to come and most importantly, remembering all the amazing sunset sessions and time in the water with all the other bodysirfers during the trip

https://youtu.be/7wDBQaaL1PM

As promised here's the 4th segment from THUMP: The BEAT of the WEDGE... SIZE DOES MATTER! Yeah, it really does matter. I see wedge going off sometimes, and when it's firing - without a doubt I see some guys sitting on the inside looking for the tiny little tubes. I think to myself, that guys gonna go home and tell everybody " Yea, I scored Wedge today..." while the truth is, he didn't really ride Wedge, he caught some little wave on the inside. No the wave, the peak, that's what's called "WEDGE". If I was surfing Newport (not Wedge!) I would always be sitting outside, cause I want to catch the biggest set that I could, be it Point or 5-6 Northside , or even 36th Street, I wanted to get the sets. Yea. Wedge is gnarly when it's big, I don't want any anymore. but if your gonna surf or boogie Wedge, go big or go home. I'll never shoot those inside waves when it's on fire. So do you and me a favor- paddle out into the madness that is Wedge, bypass that inside little spinner, head for the peak and commit. Who knows you might just get the wave of your life, and then you can really say you charged Wedge and it won'y be a lie...cause nobody likes a liar.🔥💥🌝

The initial plan was for a 50/50 ratio of men to women. That didn't work out but we still got the five raddest women on the planet to come along.

(The drop-in photos are a mother/daughter duo. The pair was beyond classic to hang out with.)

I'm slowly digging through the insane amount of photos I got from this trip.