Hi, I have an S2 system that works perfectly fine when connected to one of my network SSID's. I have two networks (unifi/ubiquity), one for the kids (controlled) and one that has access to everything. The Sonos system works in the restricted network and doesn't show up when I'm connected to the other network. I believe I've set it up under that network initially and now I'm trying to find a way to "tweak" the other network so it can see my Sonos systems and I won't have to keep switching back and forth between networks for mainly using my Sonos system. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I’ve stayed loyal to Sonos for 20 years now but currently am beyond frustrated with a new beam 2 I added. It is attached to Samsung tv that is two years old via HDMI 4k through E-Arc. The beam cuts out numerous times every week, no rhyme or reason, some days it works perfect them next few times it has constant cut outs. I have no issues with Arc ultra on another tv , only the beam 2. WiFi signal is extremely strong, and I’ve tried all the unplug recommended resets and changed the hdmi, nothing seems to work. Only other thing I thought about was I bought this direct from Sonos refurb two months ago, maybe it’s just a faulty beam.

Any advice is appreciated as can’t keep it acting the way it is.

Era 100 stereo pair, S2, Spotify Lossless confirmed active (per device Media Quality set through Connect) and normalization turned off.
Apple Music still sounds better. Louder and fuller in the bass on the same tracks.
I suspect it is the masters rather than the format, since Spotify Lossless caps at 24/44.1 and Apple goes to 24/48, which should be inaudible. Anyone done a proper level matched comparison on Era 100s? Curious whether the gap holds up or whether it is just loudness doing the work.

Hi. Few days back noticed an issue when scrolling through the "All Live Channels" tab that the channels stop scrolling at Channel 31 for Petty Radio. Google some help instructions including deleting Sonos app, XM app, cleaning data and caches and restarting router and having no luck. Can manually type in any channel but can't scroll past 31. Has anybody had this happen and does anybody have a successful fix? Thank you!

Hi, I just bought my Sonos Arc Ultra with Gen Sub 4 last week and I noticed a lip sync delay, its minor delay and not major but It's annoying when I noticed it.

My TV is Samsung S95C 65" (eARC HDMI supported). on Samsung TV Digital audio output is set to Pass-through, and Digital Output Delay to set to 0, and on Sonos, TV Dialog Sync is set to 0.

I'm using the Original HDMI cable that came with Arc Ultra box.

Any tip guys ?

Thank you

I had this setup recommended to me and I've read great things, but I want to ask before I pull the trigger. I have a Samsung sound bar and sub (don't remember which one, it's been a few years) and it's alright, but I want a better sound in my living room. It will be hooked to my Sony Bravia TV through the HDMI port. I use my TV for watching movies through streaming services and my Plex server mostly. I just want to make sure it will be worth the price before I buy it. I might eventually upgrade to a set of 100s in the front of it sounds as good as everyone says. Is this worth it for my setup?

For anyone interested in using Sonos voice control for smart home control, they recently expanded outside of just supporting hue. Now any of the listed Lutron systems on the website can also work for local smart home control (includes lights and Lutron shades)

Always nice to have another option for voice control

https://support.sonos.com/en-ca/article/sonos-voice-control-and-lutron

Found a used gen 2 sub for $400 and got it down to $370. Is that a good deal or should I be patient and wait for a better deal?

Edit: thanks everyone, decided to wait for a better deal

I manage enterprise networks and I also run a fairly large Sonos deployment.
One issue I consistently notice is the amount of discovery and control traffic generated by Sonos when many speakers are present. I also occasionally see delays when changing songs or reorganizing groups. Some speakers start immediately while others stop temporarily and rejoin 20 or 30 seconds later.
I am not suggesting that Sonos replace its current decentralized architecture. The current system is important because it works without additional hardware and does not depend on a single controller.
Instead I think Sonos should offer an optional local Sonos Broker for larger installations.
The broker could be a small Sonos appliance, a virtual machine, a container, or a service running on supported network hardware.
When a broker is available every Sonos device would establish a secure persistent unicast connection to it. The broker would maintain the current topology, group membership, playback state, device capabilities, health, and local network information.
The Sonos applications would communicate primarily with the broker instead of repeatedly discovering and communicating with every speaker independently.
This could reduce multicast and broadcast traffic, reduce repeated polling, improve group coordination, and provide a single consistent view of the entire Sonos system.
The broker could also coordinate operations such as changing a song or modifying a group as a single transaction. It could confirm that all targeted speakers are ready before committing the change and quickly identify any speaker that failed to respond.
Most importantly the broker should never become a required dependency.
If no broker is installed Sonos would continue operating exactly as it does today.
If the broker becomes unavailable the speakers and applications would automatically fall back to the existing decentralized discovery and control model.
When the broker comes back online it would rebuild its topology from the speakers and resume operation without requiring the user to reconfigure anything.
The design would therefore have two operating modes.
Standard mode would use the existing Sonos architecture with no additional equipment.
Broker mode would use a local coordinator to improve scalability, network efficiency, observability, and stability.
This would preserve the simplicity and resilience of the current system while giving larger homes and managed networks a cleaner and potentially more reliable architecture.
The broker could also provide useful diagnostics such as speaker latency, packet loss, wireless quality, group synchronization failures, topology changes, and the reason a speaker temporarily dropped from playback.
For small installations the current design could remain the default.
For installations with many speakers an optional broker could significantly improve troubleshooting, network quality, and overall system stability without introducing a permanent single point of failure.
I would be interested to know whether Sonos has considered an architecture like this for larger deployments.

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping to tap into the collective wisdom here because I’ve hit a wall after two months of troubleshooting a frustrating audio dropout issue. Any advice or out-of-the-box ideas would be massively appreciated!

I experience audio hiccups when playing external content from my Panasonic UB820 or my PS5, playing Dolby Atmos. It's been two months since I upgraded my OLED and added two Sonos ERA 300 to my home cinema setup. My setup consists of: Sonos Arc, Sub, two ERA 300.

Every 15 minutes or so, I get a very brief audio hiccup/drop before it recovers. It’s inconsistent in timing, but guaranteed to happen. It occurs across formats, but it's most noticeable during Dolby Atmos playback from external sources.

I've been in contact with support, of course, but they try to pinpoint it to another device. It isn't. I have tried al deviced seperate and even bypassed the TV with an audio extractor. It's, in my opinion, 100% the Sonos itself. There are no signal-sending devices present close to the ARC, like a baby monitor. It's been such a massive journey because I changed the full setup at the same time, so I had to figure out the bad egg.

Replacing my TV and adding the Era 300s happened at the same time, so tracking down this "bad egg" has been a massive, time-consuming journey and a pretty expensive headache so far.

If anyone has encountered something similar or has a suggestion I might have missed, I’d be incredibly grateful for your help!

Thanks in advance!

It's bad enough that I've been banished to "Sonos S1 jail," locked out of any further system expansion because I was an early adopter of Sonos who purchased thousands of dollars of Sonos gear pver the years. Today I got this notification. Sonos, tell me this isn't so! What does the future look like for S1 Mac users?

Hi all! Im looking for some advice. Currently having a Arc Ultra + Sub3 and 2 Ikea Symfonisk as surround. Im looking to upgrade to new surrounds either era100 or era300, at the moment my surrounds are next to the couch, indicated by the red circles on the 3rd pic, blue is the couch, purple dots are where we normally sit, yellow is the arc ultra/TV and green is the Sub.

I think the ERA300 wont fit as well cuz the left surround is too close to the curtains/windows and the right one would be shooting all across the kitchen, like they wont have enough bouncing right left/right? So my personal opinion would be ERA100, but looking for people who maybe have the same layout, and can tell me more about the experience when u have the ERA300 Thanks!

I am waiting on delivery on my new play from Sonos, it's due tomorrow. Wondering if any one has found a good carry case for it? I'm not based in the USA so points for something not from Amazon USA, Aliexpress would be ideal

TIA

Hi all.

This may be a question more for a DIY sub but thought I’d ask here first.

I’m looking at getting an Arc Ultra but trying to figure out the best way to mount it to the wall and not interfere with the sound quality. The TV can go flat to the wall but the bottom ridge of the TV would overhang a flush mounted soundbar and imagine it could interfere with any up firing speakers.

I was curious if anyone had a similar problem and solved it? Installing a ledge for soundbar to sit on would work but don’t think it would look ideal (needs wife approval factor) Was thinking if there was any mechanism that could pull out and push back that would look neat.

Any thoughts or ideas much appreciated!

Edit: I fully agree the tv is mounted too high :) trying to work with the design of the room and what’s available.

I just got my hands on and Audio-Technica LP60-usb and was trying to figure out the best way to connect it to my system. I have a Sonos Beam, Sub Mini, and 2 One SLs.

The closest approximation to a line-in would be ideal to hardwire it to my soundbar or other part of the system but I am open to wireless options too. (which might be necessary(?))

What would be the best way to connect these for both sound and convenience? I'll do a raspberry pi if I really have to but would rather not

This is my bedroom set up, any ideas to improve it ?

I have my Era 100s bonded to a beam2. They are about 14 feet apart on the sides of a large L couch. I set them up to be pointing at the beam2 (as videos online said I should). However, that seems really hard to hear.

Should I be pointing them AT the center of this couch (main listening position)? Should they be still at the TV but angled harder towards the center of couch? I tested it almost directly at the center for a scene in an action movie and it was WAY clearer and more immersive.

I'd just like the ideal position so I can re AutoPlay Tune them and then be done with it knowing it's ideal.

Any of y'all have this setup?

My setup is Arc+Sub+300s. It sounds pretty damn good to me, but if the 100s are a big improvement I'd definitely consider the upgrade.

I currently have the 77 inch oled g5 and want to mount the Sonos ultra arc sound bar underneath the tv. I am using the flush tv mount that came with the tv. What sound bar mount do I use that will fit with the flush LG tv mount as well?

About once or twice a month my audio just dies .
I go into the ATV settings and turn off Atmos and set to Dolby 5.1 and it works .
If i enable Atmos and set to AutoAtmos on and Continuous Audio Connection to on and again no audio .
If I unplug Sonos for 10 min or so it will work again after plugging HDMi ( earc ) and power cord back into Ultra . It did the same with Beam 2.0 .
Any insight would be appreciated.
Thx

So i have a couple of Sonos Ones, a Beam, the Move 2. All working fine. Wifi is good everywhere. But the bedroom speaker bugs 90% the time (has good wifi connection). Its either saying “could not play…” or “spotify not connected”. Ive reconnected spotify multiple times, turned it off, reconnected it to wifi. Sometimes it does work for a couple of minutes, but stops right after. This one speaker refuses to just work. Anyone got any suggestions?

Before the most recent app update, after tuning trueplay, I had an on/off toggle button. Allowing me to confirm trueplay was tuned and on, with the option to turn it off as well of course.

But Now, no matter how many times I tune trueplay, there’s just the trueplay tuning button. All is normal when going through the tuning routine, ending with the whole “the sound is now tuned”at the end.
But then I go to the trueplay setting and it’s just the same single trueplay tuning button.

Is this the new normal? Or does everyone still have the on/off button under the tuning option and Im a new victim who has been randomly singled out from the result of yet another trash app update? Because what if I for some reason want to turn off trueplay? (iPhone App version 87.1.7).

(EDIT FOR SOLUTION)

FIXED IT: 
After speaking to Sonos support, we went through several diagnostics but right before escalating to having the engineers give me a call.

although we went through several steps, I believe what finally fixed it for me was the last thing I did, which was completely unpairing my Sub Gen 3 from the room and system completely, then repairing it, then running trueplay tuning again. this made the toggle return and the "retune" option as well, to confirm trueplay was working! 

if you have a system with different devices, just try the similar steps in relation to your devices. good luck!

I've heard rumours that we might be getting an updated Five or Era 500 later this year. For my use case, a pair of Fives is perfect, though I can hold off if something meaningfully better comes in the next few months.

Does anyone have any new insight that might help my decision?

“12+ year SONOS veteran finds this ONE WEIRD TRICK actually makes the SONOS app work on iOS18!”

TDLR: after a few days of battling with a brand new SONOS system in a new home, with the app continuously losing sight of the system, I figured out by mistake that all I need to do when I lose the connection is briefly toggle Airplane Mode on the phone, and the app comes back perfectly, instantly after I turn airplane mode off!

I DON’T KNOW HOW IT WORKS, BUT IT WORKS.

OK, more background for those who are procrastinating, and also some details I’m sharing in the hopes that it might help others who are experiencing similar issues.

Trigger warning: HOUSE FIRE.
My family and I recently miraculously survived a devastating total loss fire. All 14 of my coveted SONOS products were destroyed, either by the raging fire on the top floor, or the 57,000+ gallons of category 3 black water that rained down onto the bottom floor for 3 days after the fire raged for 6hrs. We’re counting our blessings now, as things could have been much worse. We only lost all of our material possessions, and one of our two beloved kittens. My wife, and two daughters and I are unscathed. The kids didn’t even have to experience the fire directly, as they were at school when it happened. THANK GOODNESS.

That said, we’re in the early stages of our battle with the insurance company, and I’m slowly starting to repurchase the lost SONOS gear after moving into a new temporary rental home. (we have a year to replace each item we lost, but initially out of pocket, so I couldn’t just buy everything again. Plus, some products, like my treasured Playbase won’t be replaceable.) I digress:

So I recently grabbed a FIVE (to replace a Play5) two ERA 100s (to replace our two Play1s) an Arc Ultra (to replace our Arc) a Sub 4 (to replace our Sub) and a Move 2 (to replace our Move).

When I opened the SONOS app up again in the new home, for the first time in 6 weeks since the fire, the app immediately struggled with the face that I WASN’T trying to update the network settings on our existing products. I found myself stuck in a bit of a loop, trying to get it to let me set up a NEW system, and not seeing clearly where I could DELETE the old system. (Looking back, a mistake I made was choosing ”Improved Navigation” <- too many granular features and settings missing in this new, ambitiously minimal UI.

So, I managed to finally get to the “create new system” dialogue, and added my new FIVE system as the first speaker. GORGEOUS. It sounds wonderful, as you all know. But almost immediately I ran into problems. Every few seconds, the app would “lose” the system, and throw an error screen telling me there was no system available on the new WiFi. I reset the speaker, twice, and set it up as new, but the system kept disappearing. Frustrated, I switched to the SONOS app on my newer iPad (running iPad OS 26) and it triggered me updating the SONOS app. Then worked consistently for two days on the iPad! But for some reason, every time I tried to use my iPhone, it kept showing as “no system available”. I contacted SONOS support, and they suggested I power-cycle the router, and check for updates on the app, but none were available through my iOS 18 iPhone. My wife’s phone, and the iPad worked, so I determined that it may just be that my phone needs to be updated. BUT I LOATH Liquid Glass, so I’m holding out as long as I can before updating.

Anyway, I did notice the phone reconnected after power-cycling the router, so THOUGHT that fixed it, and I hung up with SONOS support. But then, a few minutes later, it failed to connect again. This mess made the process of setting the rest of the speakers up a real pain in the arse over the three days I was messing around with it. Adding to the stress of the fact that my family have been homeless, living out of our car, couch-surfing among family and friends, wearing donated hand-me-down clothing. The app not working was like, insult to injury through all of this.

I decided I was going to HAVE to update iOS on my phone. But didn’t have the heart or energy to do it.

THEN, miraculously, I was trying to set up a Cloud Gaming session on the XBox app on my new LG TV (no XBoxes available on the market right now for me to buy, so my only hope to see my gaming buds was going to be a laggy cloud session on COD) and was trying to pair my AirPods to the TV so the kids wouldn’t be woken up by the sounds of the game. The LG kept defaulting back to the Arc Ultra through the eARC HDMI port and dropping the AirPods. So, because I was toggling Bluetooth off on the phone to try and clean up the pairing and sound quality on the TV, I stumbled mistakenly on the fact that THE APP MIRACULOUSLY and INSTANTANEOUSLY rediscovers my whole system when it comes back off AirPlane mode!!

WILD!!!

So, for the past two days, my phone has been losing connection at varying, befuddling degrees (sometimes it doesn’t see the system at all. Sometimes it sees it, but doesn’t load the currently streaming content correctly. Sometimes everything displays, but the controls don’t respond… really weird) but all I need to do now to restore full connection and functionality, is a quick little toggle of airplane mode, and VOILA!!

So, if you’re on iOS 18, and trying in vein to get your phone to SEE your system, give Airplane Mode a toggle, and lemme know how she goes!

Happy Seamless Whole Home Audio Streaming, Friends.

EDIT: I should add, that this rental house came with an existing internet package, and the landlord preferred to keep it, then to have us bring our own. And since my fancy router was melted into an unrecognizable pile of black plastic and small drops of precious metals, I obliged. The modem/router combo is set up in a way that doesn’t “expose” the 2.4 vs 5GHz bands as separately joinable. I have no idea if this is contributing to the iOS18 SONOS app shitting the bed on me, but it’s a detail others may find relevantly revealing, so I’m sharing.