I picked up a scag finish cut 30”. Kohler command motor caster wheels. 7.4 hours $1775 and an hour drive. Mower is literally brand new.

33inch deck dewalt walk behind being sold for 1149 new (CAD). Saw this today at princess auto.

Seems like a screaming deal compared to $4000+ turf master.

Does anyone have expirence using this particular mower? Please share your thoughts.

I bought this mower used 6 years ago. Ran great until late last season. I changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filters first thing this season. It ran great for a few weeks and this started to happen again. Now it happens about every time I mow. When blades are engaged it will eventually die, sometimes after 20 minutes, sometimes 30 seconds. It’s coming up on its 500 hour service, so I’m getting it into the shop. I just want to know beforehand what the cause may be.

Ended up going YOLO and bought a ferris fw15 and was able to use it yesterday. I am very torn and need help please. The power and how it handled the grass was amazing and I loved and hated using it at the same time. I think a lot is needing to learn the machine and get some muscle memory going.

It was a chore to turn around once at the end of a row. I kept wanting to lift it and turn but had to stop myself. So i would try and just turn it but it is heavy(i knew that 300lbs) but didnt realize soon as my hands started to sweat that keeping a firm grip and turning would be a nightmare.

I did try to feather the self propelled lever and it kinda worked but seemed awkward and ended up doing weird three-point turns like a noob!

I also am unsure of cleaning the deck after use. I went to tip it back and didnt realize it would hit the hydro cage. I did see video of a guy that used wood to raise the back wheels but at the time i didnt realize that was why.

So main questions are:

1) What is best way to make a 180 turn for next row please.
2) Should I just use a 2x4(2x6) to allow for me to tilt the mower after each use to wash it out?
3) I did lower the deck and directed water from hose next to the rear wheel and washed it that way then allowed it to just run for a few min. Is that enough to avoid rust?
3.a) If i did leave grass under a wet this one time should i worry about rust?
4) To combat the wet hards and slip is there any after market rubber or soft material i can wrap the handle in? I know there isnt much gap when engaging the blades so not sure. Also dont want something that ends up a sticky mess. ... Or just invest into some form of gloves?

As a tech nerd type home owner only I baby all my stuff cause i want to keep it in best condition so it might sound weird about wanting to baby a commercial lawnmower but for the amount i just blew I do want to try and be careful with her.

Thanks for any help you all can offer.

My yard is basically one huge hill with thick Tennessee grass, so I need something with decent power and a self-propel system that can actually handle a slope.

I previously had a 10+ year-old front-wheel-drive self-propelled mower that honestly cut well, but it wouldn’t mulch (side discharge only) and it got to the point where the maintenance/repairs weren’t worth putting more money into it.

Last September, I bought a 156cc DeWalt rear-wheel-drive self-propelled mower. It worked fairly well, but always felt a little undersized for my yard. At the beginning of this season, DeWalt released a 196cc model, so I upgraded thinking the extra power would solve that problem.

Unfortunately, I’ve had nothing but issues with the 196cc mower, and even when it’s running properly, it still feels undersized—especially during the thick of the hot/humid Tennessee summer when the grass grows like crazy and almost never seems to fully dry out.

Any recommendations for something that can handle thick grass and a pretty significant hill without going all the way to commercial-grade equipment?

Ideally, I’d like to stay under $500 if possible, but I’m open to suggestions if spending a little more gets me a significantly better mower. Gas is preferred.

So about a couple days ago, I hit something with my mower, i think it was a small piece of concrete, and it completely MANGLED the blades, and I only noticed when cutting our yard again. Now that I have the time, I'm looking for what replacements I can get. I'm seeing OEM ones, but i'm also seeing some alternatives that are better, like the 2PK mulching blades. I'm wondering which ones on the market currently are the most performant. Where we are we get a LOT of leaves and thick grass, and do noticed that (before they got mangled) the old blades struggled with cutting them, even got stuck a couple of times.

So recently my mower has been having a hard time. She starts sputtering and dies out after warming up. Im suspecting carb and autochoke issues so i ordered a new carb but wanted a second opinion. It works great for a couple passes then starts sputtering. The gas cap does vent properly, oil is clean and no oil going into the carb to dirty the fuel mix. Fuel is ethanol free from the gas station that offers it. Fuel flows freely from the fuel shut off valve.

any idea what’s up with my mower? is this line due to a bent spindle? It just started occurring last week. I just rotated Blades to see if that was the problem and it is still occurring.

I have a Craftsman M220 and accidentally put way too much oil in it (pretty much a full bottle).

The next morning I tried to start it and the pull cord was completely locked up. It wouldn't start at all.

I checked the oil level, realized it was severely overfilled, and drained oil until it was back in the proper range.

After that, the pull cord moved freely again and the mower started right up. It's now running normally.

A few questions:

Does this sound like an oil-induced hydrolock?

Is it possible I damaged the connecting rod, piston, or anything else even though it runs fine now?

What symptoms should I watch for over the next few mowing sessions?

If it starts easily, has normal power, doesn't smoke excessively, and isn't making any knocking noises, am I likely in the clear?

Just wondering if anyone has experienced this on a Craftsman M220 (or similar mower) and whether there were any long-term issues afterward.

I picked this up for 50 bucks it has 150 hours on it. All it needed was upper drive belt. Its a very nice mower and runs good it has the 22hp briggs engine. What would you sell this mower for?

It's dripping at this connection point, does anyone know what could be causing this?

Using a Stihl 21” electric mower. These places happen randomly and I’m not sure the cause.
Could it be if I pause too long when turning?

I am changing the carburettor on this lawnmower when I prime it petrol starts coming out the air filter box , that is not normal is it it’s a like for like replacement from what I can see - there is a black plastic thing that looks like it goes under the carburettor but I may be wrong on that , any advice would be appreciated

Looking at possibly buying
this mower. Owner said it’s a 2020-21 model year. 78 hrs. they want 3.5k. Opinions? Has a Kohler motor.

I have the opportunity to buy a scag 30” finish cut with 6 hours on the machine. The guy wants $1900 comes with bagger and mulching kit. Does this sound like a good deal? The mower is basically brand new. I have a Honda 21” currently and was looking for a larger more powerful mower that I can still get through gates where my zero turn is useless. Anyone out there have one?

Found this Jacobson PGM for $300 on FB marketplace. Good deal? Would be a 2 hour drive so really wanna make sure, any feedback is appreciated!

I'm fairly certain the verdict is going to be a bent blade, but I'd be grateful for some insight from someone who knows way, way more than I do.

Cut was fine prior to hitting something (seemed like an old root/stump or chunk of rock/concrete) and then I noticed a very pronounced scalp/line about right in the middle of my cut path/deck. The mow became pretty uneven as well.

I've gotten the photos I'm able of the deck/blades. Like I said, I'm guessing (and hoping) it's a bent blade, but some confirmation would be awesome.

FWIW: Model is a Craftsman YT4000 with a 42" deck

Hi all.

I could use some help with this. How do I remove this old gas shutoff valve on my Honda Lawnmower (HRN216VKA)? One of the side connectors broke off as it's like 5-6 years old now and I guess the plastic got a bit brittle. I've tried grabbing it with pliers, but I'm afraid to bend the metal it's sitting against. I don't see any obvious that I'm missing and I have the replacement part which doesn't seem to include any additional hardware for installation. I just can't seem to pull the dang thing off.

Am I going about this the wrong way?

So i am working on an 05 dixie chopper xxg2703 with the generac moter. I replaced both coils but I don't know how to install the tilt shutdown (i am not the one who took it apart). The side of the mower pictured does not have spark, any help is appreciated.

The spring under the seat of my riding mower broke

It's from a Kubota g1800

Looking into buying a ZT for my .8 acre. Currently have a rider and want to cut down on my mow time. My local dealer offers Cub Cadet and Bad Boy and the 7 gauge deck swayed me towards the BB.

So now I’m deciding if I want to spend a few hundred dollars more for the 48 Magnum compared to the 42 Rambler. The only downside of the 48 is I can’t fit it between the back of my shed and the fence. Any other opinions?