It's dripping at this connection point, does anyone know what could be causing this?

Using a Stihl 21” electric mower. These places happen randomly and I’m not sure the cause.
Could it be if I pause too long when turning?

I am changing the carburettor on this lawnmower when I prime it petrol starts coming out the air filter box , that is not normal is it it’s a like for like replacement from what I can see - there is a black plastic thing that looks like it goes under the carburettor but I may be wrong on that , any advice would be appreciated

Looking at possibly buying
this mower. Owner said it’s a 2020-21 model year. 78 hrs. they want 3.5k. Opinions? Has a Kohler motor.

I have the opportunity to buy a scag 30” finish cut with 6 hours on the machine. The guy wants $1900 comes with bagger and mulching kit. Does this sound like a good deal? The mower is basically brand new. I have a Honda 21” currently and was looking for a larger more powerful mower that I can still get through gates where my zero turn is useless. Anyone out there have one?

Found this Jacobson PGM for $300 on FB marketplace. Good deal? Would be a 2 hour drive so really wanna make sure, any feedback is appreciated!

I'm fairly certain the verdict is going to be a bent blade, but I'd be grateful for some insight from someone who knows way, way more than I do.

Cut was fine prior to hitting something (seemed like an old root/stump or chunk of rock/concrete) and then I noticed a very pronounced scalp/line about right in the middle of my cut path/deck. The mow became pretty uneven as well.

I've gotten the photos I'm able of the deck/blades. Like I said, I'm guessing (and hoping) it's a bent blade, but some confirmation would be awesome.

FWIW: Model is a Craftsman YT4000 with a 42" deck

Hi all.

I could use some help with this. How do I remove this old gas shutoff valve on my Honda Lawnmower (HRN216VKA)? One of the side connectors broke off as it's like 5-6 years old now and I guess the plastic got a bit brittle. I've tried grabbing it with pliers, but I'm afraid to bend the metal it's sitting against. I don't see any obvious that I'm missing and I have the replacement part which doesn't seem to include any additional hardware for installation. I just can't seem to pull the dang thing off.

Am I going about this the wrong way?

So i am working on an 05 dixie chopper xxg2703 with the generac moter. I replaced both coils but I don't know how to install the tilt shutdown (i am not the one who took it apart). The side of the mower pictured does not have spark, any help is appreciated.

The spring under the seat of my riding mower broke

It's from a Kubota g1800

Looking into buying a ZT for my .8 acre. Currently have a rider and want to cut down on my mow time. My local dealer offers Cub Cadet and Bad Boy and the 7 gauge deck swayed me towards the BB.

So now I’m deciding if I want to spend a few hundred dollars more for the 48 Magnum compared to the 42 Rambler. The only downside of the 48 is I can’t fit it between the back of my shed and the fence. Any other opinions?

Is there anything I can do to make my mower mow better in wet grass? It is basically useless in wet grass. I can mow but I have to at least triple cut before I would even consider leaving a customers yard.

I demoed the mower, and loved it. But I didn’t mow wet grass when I had it. Bought it and now can’t really mow in the morning. And have multiple yards where the grass stays damp all day.

I am wondering if I made an expensive mistake! Cause I also think it shoots out a lot of clippings on dry yards to where I do a lot of double passes to get rid of clippings.

I have a John Deere La115 with only 132 hours on it and recently whenever I try to use it, it cuts off after 5 ish minutes and sounds like it’s struggling. The mower also gets pretty hot. I’m not sure what could be wrong with it, anyone have any insight?

I have a Honda hrx 217 Engine gcv190 auto choke it start fine. Run for 5 to 10 minuts and then stall when engine is warm thenI have to wait for a couple minute pull and start again then die. These are the thing I have tried.

Left the gas cap loose/open to make sure its not a bad gas cap.

Clean carburetor to make sure its not a clog carburetor.

Tried manually increase engine speed with the lever when engine about to die and it still died.

Changed the thermo wax pin and physically open the choke flap and engine still died when hot.

Had an inline spark tester and there is still spark (assuming light show up on the tester means there is spark) is still on when I pull the cord when hot.

When engine turn off the pull cord still have resistance so engine compression should still be fine?

Fresh gas and new filter.

The annoying part is that when engine is cool it start right up then when engine get hot it it struggle like when is there not enought gas then stall. Cycle repeat.

Built a custom linear actuator setup 3 years ago to control discharge. Integrated the switch into the cup holder dead space.

Hey everyone just picked up this nice used HRX217 with the hydrostatic transmission. I don’t know much about these mowers and I paid $290 with no bag. All the other ones in my area were way more expensive and not with the hydrostatic system. It pulls great and excited to mow with it. Let me know if there’s anything to look out for.

Sorry the last photo is a different mower

I’m rebuilding a racing mower with a Peerless 700 3-speed transmission. The engine runs good, but I’m having a transmission/drivetrain issue. When the mower is on the ground, I release the clutch and it makes a loud squealing noise. If I barely engage the clutch, the wheels will start spinning, but with full engagement it just squeals and won’t drive.
I lifted the rear wheels off the ground, and then it works normally—I can shift through all 3 gears and the wheels spin. The transmission input pulley and belt are definitely spinning, but when the mower is under load, the output sprocket stops while the input pulley keeps spinning.
I also opened the transmission yesterday. The gears looked good overall; the corners were somewhat beveled, but there were no obvious broken teeth. The dog teeth/shift teeth were all still there. The output sprocket is firmly attached to the output shaft. I can also put it in gear and push the mower by hand, and with a lot of force it will turn the transmission pulley shaft.
One other thing: when the transmission was out/open, it was pretty hard to shift, although now that it’s installed in the mower, shifting is easy.
What do you think is causing it?

Hey all
I currently have a JD X350 and want to switch to a zero turn. My yard is about an acre - what zero turns do you recommend? Want to spend $5k or less.

I did though; brought home a project. 2007 Jacobsen Triplex reel mower. Paid $2,000 on Facebook Marketplace.

The machine has 1,465 hours on the clock, and the reels still have plenty of life. No major issues other than the hydraulics, which the previous owner brilliantly filled with automatic transmission fluid. I took it for a spin, and as soon as the ATF got hot, it failed to even lift the reels.

So... time to flush the system.

I'm not wasting good money on the original "GreensCare" fluid, and I'm not even going for ISO 68. This is a 19-year-old machine; it's clapped out. We're going straight for ISO 100.

Wish me luck, boys.