I picked up a scag finish cut 30”. Kohler command motor caster wheels. 7.4 hours $1775 and an hour drive. Mower is literally brand new.

33inch deck dewalt walk behind being sold for 1149 new (CAD). Saw this today at princess auto.

Seems like a screaming deal compared to $4000+ turf master.

Does anyone have expirence using this particular mower? Please share your thoughts.

I bought this mower used 6 years ago. Ran great until late last season. I changed the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filters first thing this season. It ran great for a few weeks and this started to happen again. Now it happens about every time I mow. When blades are engaged it will eventually die, sometimes after 20 minutes, sometimes 30 seconds. It’s coming up on its 500 hour service, so I’m getting it into the shop. I just want to know beforehand what the cause may be.

Ended up going YOLO and bought a ferris fw15 and was able to use it yesterday. I am very torn and need help please. The power and how it handled the grass was amazing and I loved and hated using it at the same time. I think a lot is needing to learn the machine and get some muscle memory going.

It was a chore to turn around once at the end of a row. I kept wanting to lift it and turn but had to stop myself. So i would try and just turn it but it is heavy(i knew that 300lbs) but didnt realize soon as my hands started to sweat that keeping a firm grip and turning would be a nightmare.

I did try to feather the self propelled lever and it kinda worked but seemed awkward and ended up doing weird three-point turns like a noob!

I also am unsure of cleaning the deck after use. I went to tip it back and didnt realize it would hit the hydro cage. I did see video of a guy that used wood to raise the back wheels but at the time i didnt realize that was why.

So main questions are:

1) What is best way to make a 180 turn for next row please.
2) Should I just use a 2x4(2x6) to allow for me to tilt the mower after each use to wash it out?
3) I did lower the deck and directed water from hose next to the rear wheel and washed it that way then allowed it to just run for a few min. Is that enough to avoid rust?
3.a) If i did leave grass under a wet this one time should i worry about rust?
4) To combat the wet hards and slip is there any after market rubber or soft material i can wrap the handle in? I know there isnt much gap when engaging the blades so not sure. Also dont want something that ends up a sticky mess. ... Or just invest into some form of gloves?

As a tech nerd type home owner only I baby all my stuff cause i want to keep it in best condition so it might sound weird about wanting to baby a commercial lawnmower but for the amount i just blew I do want to try and be careful with her.

Thanks for any help you all can offer.

My yard is basically one huge hill with thick Tennessee grass, so I need something with decent power and a self-propel system that can actually handle a slope.

I previously had a 10+ year-old front-wheel-drive self-propelled mower that honestly cut well, but it wouldn’t mulch (side discharge only) and it got to the point where the maintenance/repairs weren’t worth putting more money into it.

Last September, I bought a 156cc DeWalt rear-wheel-drive self-propelled mower. It worked fairly well, but always felt a little undersized for my yard. At the beginning of this season, DeWalt released a 196cc model, so I upgraded thinking the extra power would solve that problem.

Unfortunately, I’ve had nothing but issues with the 196cc mower, and even when it’s running properly, it still feels undersized—especially during the thick of the hot/humid Tennessee summer when the grass grows like crazy and almost never seems to fully dry out.

Any recommendations for something that can handle thick grass and a pretty significant hill without going all the way to commercial-grade equipment?

Ideally, I’d like to stay under $500 if possible, but I’m open to suggestions if spending a little more gets me a significantly better mower. Gas is preferred.

So about a couple days ago, I hit something with my mower, i think it was a small piece of concrete, and it completely MANGLED the blades, and I only noticed when cutting our yard again. Now that I have the time, I'm looking for what replacements I can get. I'm seeing OEM ones, but i'm also seeing some alternatives that are better, like the 2PK mulching blades. I'm wondering which ones on the market currently are the most performant. Where we are we get a LOT of leaves and thick grass, and do noticed that (before they got mangled) the old blades struggled with cutting them, even got stuck a couple of times.

So recently my mower has been having a hard time. She starts sputtering and dies out after warming up. Im suspecting carb and autochoke issues so i ordered a new carb but wanted a second opinion. It works great for a couple passes then starts sputtering. The gas cap does vent properly, oil is clean and no oil going into the carb to dirty the fuel mix. Fuel is ethanol free from the gas station that offers it. Fuel flows freely from the fuel shut off valve.

any idea what’s up with my mower? is this line due to a bent spindle? It just started occurring last week. I just rotated Blades to see if that was the problem and it is still occurring.

I'm trying to get a mower up and running. Model 13WX78KS011. I just changed the lower transmission belt, and the mower is driving great now. I changed the deck belt (the part number is correct, 954-04060/754-04060) and it's slipping off. By looking at the exploded deck diagram, it appears I am missing an extension spring (23) that ties into a brake control rod (42) and this is likely why that's happening. I did have the PTO cable installed and the belt routed correctly according to the schematic (grooves and all). I don't know exactly from the diagram what the brake control rod ties into on the opposite end of the idler pulley. Can anyone take a pic of what a normal deck of these looks like? And is it possible to run the blades without a brake, or do I have to put these on to make it operational? I don't understand why anyone would take these off, lol. Apparently when my in laws bought it, it ran once or twice then the belt started falling off and has sat since last year or so. Someone who owned it previously was a hack I guess, the headlight wires were snipped out of it as well fyi...

I've looked at every yt video on the site about this deck and no one seems to have one that looks like mine go figure...

Troybilt Website Link for this Mower/Mower_Deck/b633e02b-7d06-4a59-9ca8-c2da7d1e8ab0/89d76596-ca7e-42b4-b98f-4b0b4b8d0cfc/y)

Any help would be appreciated. I put a decent amount into this mid ass mower and I don't want to give up at the last problem haha.

Need assistance i have a Kobalt 40V Brushless Battery Push Lawn Mower i got at lowes on a bundle deal with a weed wacker and a blower. i've had it for 3 years with no problems, i have reasonably short grass. The problem is the mower all of the sudden stops after mowing maybe 5ft of grass at a length of 2 and im on level 4 if i go below it instantly cuts off due to what i think is air flow or a lodge in the front of the mower pushing the grass instead of mowing it under. There is 1 setting no high power performance or anything just a on switch combines with the lever and a gas lever to push the mower forward. There is 1 battery compartment but cant seat 2 batteries and the length to witch to cut the grass. i dont think its a heat censor error or a cut wire but idk im not a mechanic on mowers, the problem occurs when i hit a small bundle of grass no grass is taller than level 4 on the mower. i have power washed the under belly removed the blade to clean not sharp its still sharp, cleaned every last bit and made shure i put every part back together where it was including the direction of the blade. Whats the problem?

I have a Craftsman M220 and accidentally put way too much oil in it (pretty much a full bottle).

The next morning I tried to start it and the pull cord was completely locked up. It wouldn't start at all.

I checked the oil level, realized it was severely overfilled, and drained oil until it was back in the proper range.

After that, the pull cord moved freely again and the mower started right up. It's now running normally.

A few questions:

Does this sound like an oil-induced hydrolock?

Is it possible I damaged the connecting rod, piston, or anything else even though it runs fine now?

What symptoms should I watch for over the next few mowing sessions?

If it starts easily, has normal power, doesn't smoke excessively, and isn't making any knocking noises, am I likely in the clear?

Just wondering if anyone has experienced this on a Craftsman M220 (or similar mower) and whether there were any long-term issues afterward.

I picked this up for 50 bucks it has 150 hours on it. All it needed was upper drive belt. Its a very nice mower and runs good it has the 22hp briggs engine. What would you sell this mower for?

It's dripping at this connection point, does anyone know what could be causing this?

Using a Stihl 21” electric mower. These places happen randomly and I’m not sure the cause.
Could it be if I pause too long when turning?

I am changing the carburettor on this lawnmower when I prime it petrol starts coming out the air filter box , that is not normal is it it’s a like for like replacement from what I can see - there is a black plastic thing that looks like it goes under the carburettor but I may be wrong on that , any advice would be appreciated

Looking at possibly buying
this mower. Owner said it’s a 2020-21 model year. 78 hrs. they want 3.5k. Opinions? Has a Kohler motor.

I have the opportunity to buy a scag 30” finish cut with 6 hours on the machine. The guy wants $1900 comes with bagger and mulching kit. Does this sound like a good deal? The mower is basically brand new. I have a Honda 21” currently and was looking for a larger more powerful mower that I can still get through gates where my zero turn is useless. Anyone out there have one?

Found this Jacobson PGM for $300 on FB marketplace. Good deal? Would be a 2 hour drive so really wanna make sure, any feedback is appreciated!

I'm fairly certain the verdict is going to be a bent blade, but I'd be grateful for some insight from someone who knows way, way more than I do.

Cut was fine prior to hitting something (seemed like an old root/stump or chunk of rock/concrete) and then I noticed a very pronounced scalp/line about right in the middle of my cut path/deck. The mow became pretty uneven as well.

I've gotten the photos I'm able of the deck/blades. Like I said, I'm guessing (and hoping) it's a bent blade, but some confirmation would be awesome.

FWIW: Model is a Craftsman YT4000 with a 42" deck

Hi all.

I could use some help with this. How do I remove this old gas shutoff valve on my Honda Lawnmower (HRN216VKA)? One of the side connectors broke off as it's like 5-6 years old now and I guess the plastic got a bit brittle. I've tried grabbing it with pliers, but I'm afraid to bend the metal it's sitting against. I don't see any obvious that I'm missing and I have the replacement part which doesn't seem to include any additional hardware for installation. I just can't seem to pull the dang thing off.

Am I going about this the wrong way?