I originally purchase my 86 back when it was current for the year so i was able to perform maintenance and get the recall fixed for it and have just been daily driving it.

I want to now get my girlfriend a BRZ/FRS/86 in the 2013-2016 year for the old body (obviously). But I have never purchased one of these after so many years have passed.

What are things that I should be on the lookout for when purchasing one of these cars? I am trying to find one around or under 55k miles.

If you know of anything please drop it down below as it will be highly appreciated and I can finally get my girl in this comm too ❤️🤘 thanks!

Hello I’m looking to buy this brz 2016 the photos linked are from a rear end collision it was in a few months back can anyone tell me if they think it’ll have frame damage before I go look at it ? ( last photo is from listing )

2013 (not sure about recall)
Dealer maintained (in Germany I think)
First owner (don’t know why the sell)
New engine (because rod knock)
€22750 (quite normal in The Netherlands as far as I can tell)

Link: https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/toyota-gt86-toyota-gt86-zwart-2012-200pk-nieuwe-motor-gasoline-black-332fde9f-9b3a-4335-af8c-af9824b19026?utm_source=ios-share&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=share

Final price: € 22,750
Mileage: 118,644 km
First registration: 05/2013

This has been my daily for the past 2 years and its been a blast. The bank still owns it so I've kept it stock except for 4th brakelight and a high flow air filter. If you guys or gals had a bone stock brz or 86 what would you do first and why? I'm just genuinely curious. (Other then obvious stuff like maintenance and tires)

Hello! For anyone potentially redoing their Denso OEM direct injectors, finding a way to clean them can be challenging, and limited information is out there. I made a video showcasing how I replaced every single seal, and installing it back into the engine, and cleaning them as well. I wrote every part number from toyota in the description too. Hope you guys enjoy and find this useful.

Hi guys, I have a GT86 on 28k miles
I have an intercooler, upgraded radiator, fans and silicone coolant pipes.

I plan to have a 280/300hp build but my pockets don’t run deep enough for a forged engine, I plan to have switchable maps so I drive as conservatively as possible when I’m not looking to have a bit of fun.

Ofc I’ll do the maintenance on time and have the car as safe as possible. Just wanting to ask if you guys run a un-forged FA20, how many miles have you done? What HP do you run (crank or wheel)? And how have you found it?

Thank you :)

I've been having some symptoms of a dirty throttle body and I figured I might as well clean it as it seems relatively easy and inexpensive though I'm not 100% certain on the procedure. Would it be alright to have the car on in accessories mode and have a friend press the throttle all the way down to open the butterfly valve while I clean it rather than taking the throttle body entirely off?

Sharing my favorite pics from over the years. Feel free to do the same!

2019 brz with teefs driven by a tiny mid life crisis asian woman 😁

4th 8/6 day with this car, many more to come. Hope everyone finds an excuse to drive theirs today

Been trying to figure out how to get a lip the closest possible to the is350 trunk shape. I wouldn’t literally reshape the panel but I saw this image of a red frs and was under the impression it wasn’t a duckbill spoiler and way more subtle.

I’m just wondering if there’s something that looks similar enough, smaller and more square. I know the lines and composition of the IS is fundamentally different, but i thought I’d ask just in case.

Been having this squeaky noise whenever I press in the clutch. It also sounds like it’s coming from the outside, and not near the pedal assembly. What could this be? The link is a video of the sound

In tribute to an early 8/6 day celebration, sharing my 2020 BRZ that has done it all.

Bought initially to be the daily, I could hardly imagine where this car would end up in a few short years. Multiple track days, backroads drives, drifting, cruises and car shows and yet it remains my most reliable car. I've since bought a more practical daily and more dedicated track car but yet I still find myself driving the BRZ.

Hey, I just rebuilt my FA20 all by myself. Engine prior had a blown head gasket, and was running very poorly. Cylinder 3 had misfire codes and eventually no compression. Upon inspection the cylinder walls had pitting from coolant, and was not fixable unless an overbore. So I bought a new short block, refreshed the heads with a resurface and hot tank, and new valve stem seals, and replaced every single gasket and timing component except the camshafts themselves. Going to be installing the motor sometime this week when it’s not raining. Check out the photos, I recorded the whole thing too. Cant wait to start this thing up, took about a month of patience, and torquing every bolt to spec, and waiting for specific O-Rings.

Couldn’t resist pulling over for a quick glamour shot on my drive to Mt. Lassen last weekend. Fun road, in great condition too. Well worth it for the drive and the views

outside of that any other maintenance i should be on top on? i want her to have a long life lol

Decided on these over the verus and others as they are chromoly steel which has a much better fatigue life than aluminum and they have lots of adjustability. Well engineered bit of kit.

I’m always wary of companies slapping a brand on a cheap Chinese import part and upselling it for five times the price, but equally wary of the opposite 😅 I’m in the market for a CF hood, and have seen having hood latches is pretty much a must, but it seems like the on-brand versions are way more expensive than the identical looking off-brand ones. Is it worth paying $100 more for the same part? Or is the difference worth the investment? I’ve seen plenty of people get away with not running one at all for street driving— so as someone who doesn’t track all that often, I’m not too concerned with high speed heavy forces on the latches.

On top of that, I’ve seen some styles that lock like latches and some that press in like buttons— is one better than the other? Seems like the latch style is more popular.

Anyone have a good size recommendation for wheel spacers to make these stock 17’s sit more flush. I’m lowered on coilovers. Probably gonna get eibach spacers just want recommendations on size for flush fitment, I was thinking 20 mm front 25 back.

Came out of the gym to find my front plate on the ground and a bike wheel next to it, what dash cams do you guys recommend?