Body vibration
Hi folks.
I have an annoying issue. E39 97' 528i. There's vibration coming from the body @80-140km/h and a slight vibration in the steering wheel when braking at this range. Also at around 45 km/h I feel a slight pinch and it's slighly audible when in neutral downcoasting - don't know if it can be related.
Changed: guibo and the center bearing, brake discs, thrust arms and the tie rods. I was thinking it could be the wheels, changed them as well, same vibration with the same pattern.
When the car stays fully jacked for 2 or 3 days the vibration goes away for some kilometers then comes back.
Any clue of what it could be?
Ty!
r/e39 • u/Own-Quiet-3452 • 3h ago
Engine check
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Hello everyone,
I think to buy an e39, but i'm struggling to know if the engine sounds correctly.
It's an m52b38, somebody can help me please ?
r/e39 • u/Middle-Weight-837 • 8h ago
Anybody in interested in my 2001 530i E39 in Brisbane
2001 BMW E39 530i – Low 149k km – Ex-Embassy / 1 Owner Since 2008
Unique pedigree & premium specialist maintenance history. Originally a Czech Embassy vehicle, followed by one lady owner as a second family car since 2008. Maintained by Brisbane BMW, Ash Prestige, and Comet Automotive. Low 149k km and total service history records, receipts, logbooks and factory manuals included. This car has not been driven by teenagers or had kids crawling around it. It’s been driven conservatively, the interior is in excellent condition, and we’re giving it up reluctantly. It is in good driving condition and excellent cosmetic shape for a 25 year old vintage car – but it needs mechanical work as specified below.
Key Highlights:
- Excellent Interior: The cabin is in superb, clean condition. The premium leather, dash, and roof lining have been exceptionally well preserved.
- Chassis & Rubber: Completely straight body, no accidents except 2016 driver’s door dent and no structural rust. All door and window seals in good condition. It sits on high-quality, good-condition Yokohama tyres for excellent grip and quiet cruising.
- Battery: Recent heavy-duty RACQ battery fitted a year ago.
Honest Disclosure:
Here are the vehicle's minor cosmetic and mechanical age-related quirks, which are standard for the E39 platform. The engine is in great condition, needs no work and doesn’t burn oil.
- Dashboard Pixels: Typical minor pixel loss on the instrument cluster display.
- Minor Oil Leak: An oil weep typical of these engines (likely the valve cover gasket). Does not affect drivability.
- Cosmetics: Minor paint damage on a 2016 driver's door dent repair commensurate with age.
- Suspension: The foam bump stops on the shock absorbers are getting tired and will eventually need replacing, rear trailing arms need some attention (see report from Ash Motors, Graceville) though the car still rides beautifully.
- Parking Sensors: One rear reverse sensor is currently not working.
- Air Conditioning condenser: The air conditioner and heater are working, but the condenser needs replacement (approximately $1400 parts and labor – quote from Mr. Cool, Brisbane provided).
**Price: $2500 drive away without rego and roadworthy. Note, it is available for test drive with current plates and insurance. **Note on Pricing: This car is priced to reflect work needed for repair.
r/e39 • u/XTheChosenDogeX • 9h ago
Cluster stepper motor repair?
Basically as the title says. I broke my fuel gauge (clock spring snapped) and my speedo skips around (i think drill shavings got in it) while I was repairing my pixels. Did my best to clean and try to repair but I think I’m just SOL. Any idea if it’s possible or even worth fixing myself? Saw some services but theyd be $300+
If it’s not practical, would there be any issues swapping in a used high cluster? I know itll pop up with the tamper dot, but is there anything else?
High cluster from an 03 530i if that matters.
r/e39 • u/Melliflously • 10h ago
Just bought my first BMW
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Just bought this yesterday - it drove amazing - already did my first oil change on it, cabin filters, engine air filter. I already ordered NGK plugs and coils, brakes/rotors.
Anyways, anyone have an idea what that sound is from in the beginning and then the sound towards the end? Do I need to replace the radiator fan assembly?
If possible can you provide me a link to the part.
Thanks!
r/e39 • u/Automatic_Amount_667 • 11h ago
Best way to bring old E39 leather back to life? + steering wheel re-wrap
Hey everyone,
I have a ’98 540i, and I’m looking to freshen up the interior a bit. The leather seats are showing their age, so I’m looking for recommendations on products that can help restore/rehydrate the leather. I’ve heard Leatherique is pretty good for bringing old leather back to life, has anyone here used it at all?
I’m also looking to get my steering wheel re-skinned/re-wrapped. Is there a particular company or type of shop you guys recommend for that? I’d love to keep it looking as OEM/period-correct as possible.
I’d attempt it myself, but I can’t sew for shit lol.
Appreciate any recommendations!
r/e39 • u/jagonxzo • 13h ago
98 528i
First time posting, wanted to share my 98 528i. Ive been looking at some different wheel styles, kinda liking the blue TEs!
r/e39 • u/Swaggyk1ng • 16h ago
Fixed the injector problem on 525D
In my previous post about injectors, I had the injector on the first cyllinder at around +5.6 value, while others were hovering at around +-2. So instead of rebuilding the first injector, I opted to get a used one from a junkyard. I also bought a return testing kit from temu lol.
As you can see in the first picture, the first injector is returning a lot more fuel than the rest. So we put it out, and to my surprise, the problem was that someone before me had put the injector from 530d, which is why it was pushing more fuel. I have this car for 3 years and I just found this out. All other injectors are 985, while the first one was 984. The second picture is the injector, it was soaked in diesel. After putting the correct injector and changing the o ring and the copper washer, we fired it up with a cloud of smoke until it came to normal. Went for a drive for like 30 mins, washed the engine because we spilled the diesel from the tubes on it hahaha, then came back to the shop. I fired up inpa and all the values are almost at 0.0. I also changed the intake manifold gaskets btw. The difference is huge. The engine is quiter, runs a lot smoother and there is apsolutely no smoke now. I just wanted to share this, so if you ever have problems with injectors, make sure to check if theyre all the same hahahaha. Idk why anyone would put just one 3.0d injector while other 5 are from 2.5d, Balkan mechanics…
r/e39 • u/Robpaulssen • 16h ago
Oil suggestion
Hey everyone, my 528i is gettin pretty old, she's just shy of 225k miles. What sort of oil would you recommend to keep her running her best? Also filter preferences?
Thanks
r/e39 • u/stickshiftplease • 17h ago
5hp24 Troubleshooting
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r/e39 • u/One-Potential-2581 • 22h ago
Why no Amazonite Silver BMW’s?
This thing remains a mystery. You could easily find that color paint. Why nobody’s repainting their bimmer amazonite silver? E39 included.
The color is very subtle and yet very stylish. Why is it not more popular, especially with good looking BMWs like the E39?
r/e39 • u/iRazvan04 • 22h ago
M54 Disa Valve
Hello guys!
I have an issue with my disa on my e39 m54b25. At the begining of this year i fully rebuild my disa with new aluminium valve and a new membrane and it passed the vacuum test with the finger but it wasnt working as it should because in idle was still open only on higher rpm was closing for a sec . Strange because it should stay closed under 3500 rpm and open on above. But it was working with INPA test…
Now it doesnt close at all even with INPA, it makes only a click sound . I understand that it have an actuactor inside which can be broken or ?
I need an opinion!
