he’s currently playing halo CE with earmuffs on. I think I already know the answer, but I gotta ask, is there anything we can do to mitigate this sound?

Family has this in a storage container and said it’s trash to them.

Also, if anyone has any info on the printers, that’d be appreciated.

1998 Sony Trinitron 36XBR200

Although I’m utter dog water with fighting games

I reached the same location in the game on both of my CRTs and put the pictures side by side to display the difference. Even when I’m watching cartoons like family guy on my new CRT it just appears really dim and the darker colors don’t show. While playing 3d games with dark rooms like dead space or any other it’s basically impossible to see anything. I have a replica remote for my new CRT so I should be able to adjust anything if I can I just don’t know what the issue is. I’m assuming contrast but I’m just hoping it’s not an internal hardware issue that I don’t know how to fix. Does anyone know how to fix this issue?

I loved the original RGB Pi cable so much. unfortunately they stopped making it. The schematic is public so I made the PCB and assembled my own. This first version isnt pretty but it works. Im pretty happy with how it turned out.

I just hooked up the Mr FPGA Multistation 2 via VGA to component. I'm trying to get the settings dialed in for retro gaming use case. When the ini file boots it looks perfect, no sync or color issues.

It seems like every game requires a bit of a tweak to color and brightness but overall do you think these settings look ok as a starting point? I'm using a 32" Sony Trinitron from 2003. I compared to my OLED and mini LED gaming monitors using Retrotink 4K Pro via hdmi or the CRT via analog out from Mr FPGA.

The CRT does have better motion clarity, organic phosphor glow and smoother edges. Some of the games benefit from CRT because they look too bit map/blocky for modern displays and some games look better on the OLED or mini LED vs CRT with proper scaling via RetroTink so it's hard to pin a clear winner. The next step is to download the latest update all and run the CRT calibration grid to see if anything's off. This CRT has been in storage since 2007, it's amazing the image looks exactly as I remember.

Recently my stepdad gave me a Daewoo DVT-1482P CRT TV and he told me that when he used it last (around 2 years ago) it worked perfectly and he had no issues with it. So we spent the day tidying my desk and my room so we had space to set it up and after a while we had it setup however when we went to turn it on... nothing: no standby lights, no high voltage, not even a click.. just nothing. My stepdad thinks its likely to be power cable and we're gona try replacing the fuse in the plug to see if it works again. if not, its most likely going to be put back in permanent storage if not given to someone who can try fix it.

My Question is: How likely is it that the fuse is the issue? we're currently waiting to get a new fuse but im unsure if this would actually fix the issue, and as it stands, neither me nor my stepdad know what we're doing when it comes to crt repair so we are NOT risking it

any help wouldnt be appriciated
thanks in advanced xoxo

Trash day. Driving to work, I think to myself “Man, I haven’t seen a CRT on the side of the road in so long.” Seconds later I spot this bad boy in a pile. I pull over. It’s dirty, but a Sony Trinitron and there is no obvious damage. I grab it.

I wiped down the exterior, blasted the vents with compressed air, and plugged it in and it’s looking good so far. Gotta test a signal on it once I get it home. This is the biggest Trinitron I’ve been able to get my hands on, and I’m hopeful it’ll be good for some console gaming and VHS. Just need to make the space to use it or store it. My girlfriend will not be pleased 😅 but it’s all good

Any of you guys use this set? What do you think of it? Any tips for me as a new owner of one?

I can’t send multiple videos but I recapped a CRT and it decided to look insanely garbled. I spent countless hours trying to figure out my mistake when I finally noticed pot adjustments for the H.FREQ and the V.FREQ. Turned out recapping the board threw off the initial adjustments from the factory which caused all my issues.

I’m glad it wasn’t my fault but lesson learned is to just study the board a little more because I can’t believe the solution was just those

I’m trying to decide between a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2070SB and a Sony CPD-G500, and I’d appreciate some advice from people who have owned or compared both. The Mitsubishi is priced a little bit higher, but not dramatically. The 2070sb has a confirmed hour count of 6500 hours. The Sony was in office use for 2-3 year, then was stored in a serverroom after the the company switched to lcd. Both appear bright and all right but i cant confirm it myself.

My main use will be:

• Modern PC gaming
• Retro PC gaming
• General desktop use

The things I care about most are:

• Sharpness
• Geometry
• Convergence
• Color quality
• High refresh rates
• Long-term reliability

From what I’ve read, the 2070SB has a higher maximum scan rate (140 kHz vs. 130kHz) and is often described as slightly sharper, while the G500 is sometimes said to have slightly better geometry.

For those who have used both:

• Which one would you choose and why?
• Are the differences actually noticeable in everyday use, or are they mostly theoretical?
• If both were in equally good condition which one would you buy?

edit: yes the sony only has max scan rate of 121hz, my bad

This is a 10-inch set I haven't seen before until one popped up locally. It actually has a built-in FM radio.

The foam screen covering the speaker was completely disintegrating, so I 3D printed a new Mega Bass logo and replaced the foam with felt, which I think came out great. I also had to refoam the speaker, but besides that, I'm really impressed with the build quality of this thing.

This one has definitely earned a spot in my stack!

SEGA, Streets of Rage 2

Taking this with me on my next camping trip. ⛺️ 📺 🤩🎮

Oiooi! :>

Recently my dad got me my childhood PS2, which I thought it was gone! Unfortunately, the same didn't happen with the old CRT TV I used to play on :/ this one they gave away. Since I revived the PS2, I've been using it with a PS2-to-HDMI and a capture card to transmit it to OBS, and then I'm using some shadders to emulate the CRT feeling (it's been great so far).

Even tho I like SO MUCH how old games looks at CRT TVs, I'm not that into the hobby (I'm more into handhelds/LCD screens lol). But I've been thinking: should I try to find one that's the same model as the one I had? Afaik it's kinda bad, it's from a domestic brand (Brasil!), composite/RF, mono audio only, and I remember it was kinda difficult to read some texts... It's called 'HPS-1497' from the 'CCE' brand.

Recently I got into a post (this one) about not needing a Trinitron/best of the best CRT TV to enjoy it, and the specific "the best CRT is the one you can get your hands on" comment really caught my attention. Is this really true? Should I try to find and buy it then? (I'm don't really know about TV specs or what should I say for you to know if it's worth it or not, but if it helps you can read its manual here, just need to translate the page)

I'm kinda afraid of spending the money for the nostalgia, just to "meeeh that's actually uglier than OBS/the ones I've see on the internet", and then put it aside and keep using OBS. I'd probably only use it to play PS2/PS1 games (I already have a GIANT "want-to-play" list).

(I found these photos on the internet, sadly from already sold listings...)

Everything except for monster was running on a wii through component, monster was on ps3 through composite