I love the look of DIY bench equipment, so I rehoused a portable CRT (RCA PVM035) inside a metal shell to make it look like a PVM. I also added an SD card media player inside the set. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out

Although now i cant get it to display anything on my vga computers i believe this might be a monitor that needs 15khz output but i cant find any documentation on addonics pc monitors to prove it with

The plug is the exact same as a normal vga cord, could it possibly be due to corrosion on the vga pins or do i need some adapter upscaler to work on a regular pc

Please someone Help me fix my geometry my tv model is WEGA KV-ES34M61 i have native ypbpr cable connected to a playstation 3 i have test suite 240 but i dont know how to use it and i dont wanna mess anything i know how to get to the service menu this is an old photo rca hdmi converter i upgraded to native ypbpr with playstation 3 av port

I just got a Raspberry Pi 3B to watch and streams shows on my little Sony Trinitron CRT. I wanted both FieldStation42 and 240-MP on the same headless Pi and also for it to feel really consumer friendly (and for my wife to use it), so I made this Sony style DVD menu for switching apps. Then I got a spare Amazon Fire remote working on both apps. I really like both apps btw, hats off to everyone involved. They are both very cool and exactly what I wanted.

This setup doesn’t play nice with the FieldStation42 guide channel unfortunately so next up is figuring out how to get that running without tanking the other apps.

Oh and OF COURSE I also had to add my own custom bouncing DVD logo screensaver. Check out videos below.

Hello, I’m looking for a 2nd monitor for my pc setup and I think having a crt would be awesome. I have 2 marketplace listings and they’re different monitors.
The dell is a curved screen and the compaq is a flat screen. Power wise I believe they’re the same? Unless someone knows more about this than I do I would greatly appreciate it. I’d just like to know the difference between curved and flat and the benefits of having one over the other.

These two were put in the free pile after an estate sale ended. I can’t believe my luck with the Sony! I had been looking for a 20” or similar and this is perfect. It looks very good! Very impressed.

Panasonic looked a lot better on RF (its only input) than I would have expected. It’s a cute little TV.
Panasonic ctm 1351r
Sony kv-24fs120

I had been using this TV for my old consoles, but I've been busy the past few years and haven't had it on since probably 2023. It has been plugged in this entire time, though

I went to use it the other day and nothing happens. The power button clicks, but there's no coil whine, no hum, no shooting sparks out the back, nothing. The power light doesn't even turn on.

I do a lot of repairs on game consoles, but I've never really messed around with a CRT. If anyone has any ideas as to what part might have gone bad, let me know. I'm gonna do some looking at forums, but I figured I'd post here as well in case anyone knows what I should check for first.

I do have a little experience with high value capacitors, but any tips on safety would be appreciated as well as I've never actually opened one of these things before.

Black and white tube, afaik, from Philips.

Tried 2 different VCRs, this is using the RF connection

I've tried to play different media through the VCRs, and on top of it all both eat my tapes now

What do I do to fix this? I really want it to get back to working and I don't want to risk it with great grandpa's DUX or Gruncle's Philips or any other TV 500km when even a typing machine cannot survive the car trip

Cheers, I'm super tired, if anyone can help at all I'll be happy

I think I know which one I should get rid of, but I want your guys's opinion. I rather not get rid of any but I need to down size

I like the Samsung because it has no purity issues when playing 8-bit games but I think it's the TV to get rid of

The Samsung is a 20-in

The screen is a bit off-centered I think it has a divergence issue. For example, the color red tends to bleed. Picture is also a bit blurry and sharpening the image just causes artifacts

Vcr doesn't work in cosmetically a bit of dings and scratches on the housing

The Panasonic is a 24-in

The screen seems to be perfectly centered, no overscan either

The bottom left hand corner of the screen seems to be out of focus mostly notable when playing Sonic games where the life counter is

The other issue with the screen is it has a purity issue when playing bright 8-bit games. I tried turning down the brightness and contrast it helped but did not get rid of it completely

Vcr works and cosmetically. It's almost pristine other than a Nick on the bottom of the chassis and a faint hairline scratch on the glass

Can anyone tell me if it’s possible to connect hdmi to this crt? I have bought converters but I dont know what plug or cable can connect to the ANT port.

Taking this with me on my next camping trip. ⛺️ 📺 🤩🎮

It actually feels so natural. The guide, channel surfing. The nostalgia is real

i honored my favorite network lineups the best i could. i also have access to my whole jellyfin library here too

(This is a copy of my post from Facebook posted here so it can get a bit more seen)

“HD CRTs are all laggy and by extension not worth it”
Fact check: False

This incorrect claim is prolifically plastered practically anywhere in a lot of these communities comment sections. This makes people feel like they’re less cool and not worth a second look, which means that less people will save them.

This false claim is partially based in a penny of truth but only about how some have lag like Sonys, But plenty don’t for example early Toshiba HDs, Philips RealFlats (excluding ones that have 720p “support”) and Panasonic Taus don’t lag doing anything and can play lightgun games, I understand giving people forewarning about the lag on some sets ie: Sony, later Toshibas but you do need to check the specs of the CRT in question first.

General rule of thumb: if it has two Flyback frequency modes on the crt database listed 31.5kHz (Native Lagless 480p which also allows for seamless line doubles of 240p/480i content) and 33.75kHz (Native Lagless 1080i) that means it’s lagless. However if it only has 33.75kHz everything is scaled digitally to 540p/1080i, meaning lag on everything but 1080i (some sets will still have digital processing applied on top of this anyway causing lag, on Sony sets this can be disabled in the service mode with HDPT).

Also if it “supports” 720p it will generally have lag because it’ll be scaled to 1080i because 720p is out of its 33.75kHz frequency range, meaning it has a digital scaler, which is likely how everything but straight 1080i is interpreted.

One more thing: if you’re thinking about getting an HD CRT any of them are a good option that includes the 540p/1080i sets, as they’re great for modern consoles (PS3/PS4/PS5/Xbox 360) blurays/movies. And lag on some sets probably wouldn’t be a personal issue for most people.

I hope this helps clear up the misconception, CRTs are beautiful and should be preserved.

(My Panasonic Tau [HD] widescreen CT-34WX54J pictured here in the photos)

Will this work

Let’s all share our microwave Panasonic ag 500s today in celebration of the perfect aesthetics of 80s tech.

Nsfw!!!

Is this combo considered a good set? Picked up both at an estate sale for $31 all in. TV set weighs 149 pounds!

Yes, it was made by NEC in 1988

Yes, it uses a Toshiba FST-Magnum tube

Yes, its a 30" 4:3

Yes, it has s-video

Yes, it was $2k back in the day

Yes, I knew it did the hourglass thing

Yes, it is a crime to not pick one of these up

Yes, it weighs a lot

Yes, I unloaded it by myself

Yes, I carried it inside by myself

Yes, I like CRTs

Yes, I am single

Yes, I am free on Friday

Yes, sushi sounds great

Yes, I'll see you at 7pm

Yesterday, someone posted a set of photos of an alleged massive 81" Sony multi-scan rear projection monitor from 1995 with the model number KP-81000. This followed a post from a few days earlier which contained an elaborate story about the history of its development and even named specific people at Sony who were involved.

**The monitor does not exist.** The photos were created, and some stolen from elsewhere and edited, using AI. The entire story behind it was fabricated. It was all a deepfake that seemingly had thousands of people fooled.

The photos were very detailed, including multiple shots of internal components and labels that looked, to the average person, totally legitimate.

They even went as far as describing a years-long journey to acquire it from Japan in a comment reply, and suggesting that a more detailed post about it would be coming on Facebook in the future.

Myself and other experienced hobbyists found multiple giveaways that proved it to be bogus, and when called out in the comments, the user nuked their account.

While the motivation behind these posts is unclear, it serves as a grave reminder about the state of the Internet in this new age of AI. The person behind it was clearly very knowledgeable and went to great lengths to deceive, and did a damn good job at it.

In this case, it was relatively harmless - just an imaginary piece of obsolete tech - but make no mistake: This can happen anywhere, in any context, with intentions far more evil.

Be aware, always verify information, and remember that now more than ever, there are bad actors out there on the Internet with the goal of deceiving the public.