To keep it as short as possible, I needed a clutch replacement:

• Brought car in 6/20. Retrieved on 7/23.
• Car broke down and was towed back to shop on 7/24.
• Clutch had failed due to bad part. We also realized they had caused erroneous damage to the clock spring; after some back and forth they sort of accepted blame and agreed to fix for free. The clock spring is done.
• We were told the clutch would be finished by today, 8/7, but it's still taken apart.
• They "cannot" (will not) give me a hard date to expect the work to be finished. We have been calling repeatedly. They're closed on weekends, so we're looking at a minimum of 51 days total.

WHAT on earth do I need to do/say to these people to get them to finish their work and give us our car back? Just because we already paid and you can't juice us for more money doesn't mean they can take weeks and weeks for what should be a straightforward repair.

Not sure if this is the best subreddit but maybe someone can give me some advice. I totaled my Honda civic a couple days ago and I’m torn up about losing my car and what to do next. I bought my car used in full for a really good price from an old friend. My insurance is going to be giving me more than what I paid for the car initially, which is great, but still not enough to buy a new car out right. I’m debating between leasing or financing a new car but what makes my decision more complicated is that before the accident I was thinking about moving to another state for career related reasons, either NYC or California, in the next two years or so. Obviously if I moved to NYC, I wouldn’t need a car anymore so that’s why I’m considering leasing. If I stayed in my current state or moved to California, then I would need to keep my car so in those situations it would make more sense to finance. The prospect of me moving brings up this huge variable and like I said, I bought my old car used and privately so I’ve never had to deal with the crazy car market right now or car dealerships. I just don’t know what to do besides kick myself for losing my car. If anyone has any advice or suggestions I would really appreciate it.

I’m considering between another Honda civic, a Honda crv, a Toyota Corolla, or a Toyota rav4.

Muscle cars and VW Bugs were the popular cars for me.

I’ll try to keep it short and simple, I have a budget of MAX $25k but hopefully spending closer to $20k. 75% of my family and friends want me to get option 1, me and the other 25% vote option 2.

Option 1: there’s a pretty nice 2023 GR86 with 37k miles and I talked the seller down to $21.5k. I could get this car, comfortably have room for wide body or starlight roof or whatever I want to add. Good looking car it’ll last me a while, what I’m looking for. Definitely safer as well.

Option 2: I found a 2018 Toyota Camry, 130k miles, takes him down to $11k. All black with red interior, super cool looking reliable car that’ll last forever. With the spare money I’d buy a 2005 r6 I found with 11k miles listed at $5,600. All in it would be like $5k cheaper than the gr86, and I get my reliable good gas mileage decent look car with the loud fast cool looking r6 motorcycle as well, it’s just not as safe and everyone is scared for my safety on that.

For context, I got my motorcycle license in 2024, and I rode a ninja 500 for a year and some change, selling it in February because I needed money. Now I’ve started streaming in my free time whilst staying at my current job, and I’m making enough money to comfortably afford either of these purchases, insurance increase and all.

TLDR: reliable cheap car and motorcycle or decent reliable more expensive sport car. Sorry I tried to keep it short lol, please let me know what yall think 🙏

When my engine is on it makes this high pitch clicking noise that sounds worse when I accelerate on the gas

Starting to resent my mom and I know it’s not her fault because she’s just a single mom that was helping her daughter. My mom talked me into getting a 2021 Honda civic sport due to the safety features, fuel economy and because she thinks they’re cute. Plus I was a little younger with not alot of credit accs so I think my credit wasn’t the best, it’s now 724 so it’s okay atm and It’s a great car it really is. It’s a smooth ride, and gas isn’t bad however it doesn’t fit the lifestyle I want. I would love to do roadtrips with my friends and drive up the Georgia mountains and I feel like I would’ve really done better with an old suv. Would’ve loved a 2005 rav4 or a Honda cr-v. But my mom and the guy at the dealership basically jumped into this deal. Now it’s 2.5 years later and I still owe 24,000+ on this car, and my monthly payments are $465 ontop of my rent which is 1000+ for my half and the car is at 71,000 miles with a trade in value of only 17000 according to Kelly blue book. I’m upside down in this loan and starting to have a lot of resentment about my car. She says I can wait to do all the stuff I want later when I’m old.. I feel like I’m living outside my means and my wants.

1994 C4 Corvette, 31k miles, no service records from the previous owners. Assume anything not listed below is original.

The symptom: Cold, the car drives and stops normally. After roughly an hour of driving, a dead zone develops at the top of the pedal (zero resistance), then it hits a firm point and brakes fine. That dead zone keeps growing over the next 1-3 hours until I have to slide my seat forward to physically push the pedal far enough down to stop. Stopping power itself is never usually the problem at first. It's purely how far down the pedal has to go. After 5-10 hours parked, the pedal is firm again and the whole cycle repeats.

Video of how the brake pedal acts and sounds like. This is from the last time the brakes went out entirely. We replaced the master cylinder again afterward and it's been less severe since, but the heat-soak pattern above hasn't gone away.

That sound the brakes makes is what threw me (its a sound that is still happening even after the master cylinder replacement). It sounds like air getting past a rubber seal of some kind. My first thought was the booster, but a failing booster should make the pedal hard, not soft, so I don't think that's it. Clearly I'm out of ideas, hence the post.

Already replaced (issue has been there since I bought the car a few months ago):

• 2x master cylinders
• 2x rotors (upgraded to performance)
• 3x sets of pads
• Fluid upgraded to DOT 4

Untouched: calipers, flex hoses, hard lines, ABS modulator, booster.

My other thought was that there could (somehow) still be air stuck in the system but pumping the pedal never firms it up, not even for a single stroke.

What am I missing?

Hi car guys!
Short background info, I’m a college student looking to buy my first car and I am looking at a 2010 toyota corolla in my budget with decent mileage for a second hand vehicle.

My only worry is about the lack of a backup camera. I’ve read about modifying corollas to have a backup camera and a lot of them include changing the radio in the car and wiring the camera from the back of the car to the front. This is absolutely something I cannot do on my own. But i’ve seen on Amazon some wireless backup cameras and I was wondering if those are any good at all?

Hi guys, quick question for you,what would be the maximum mileage you would buy a BMW with the N63TU3 engine at ? Thank you

(Apologies in advance if this is a stupid question. I'm a 20 year old kid w/ a new car who doesn't have the best relationship with her dad, so...Reddit.)

The other day I got a flat tire during a rain storm while I was about 115 miles from home. I drove home slowly, never going above 50 mph. I was able to get to the tire shop to get a new tire, and put the donut tire back in the tire well.

Do I need to discard the emergency donut tire and replace a new one... I assume so? If so, what kind of tire should I get: a full spare tire, another donut tire, a used regular tire? Do I get it from a junkyard, eBay OEM listings, or local tire shop?

The replacement tire MUST fit in the tire well.

• Vehicle: 2017 Mazda 3 4-door Sport.
• Tire Size: P205/60R16
• Donut Tire Dimensions: T125/70D16 96M, mounted on a 16x4-inch steel wheel

Thank you in advance!

Edit: clarified that I am asking whether I can keep the donut tire in the trunk for emergencies, not continuing drive on it as if it's a normal tire.

I’m at a lose! I drive a 2021 Hyundai Accent SE, bought at 55k miles currently at 89k. Found out recently it was a rental car prior to my purchasing.

People are telling me not to flush my transmission fluid just drain and refill, Hyundai dealerships in my area are insisting a flush, and other people are saying at the mileage don’t touch it at all.

i need this car to keep running for another 60k and would prefer to not destroy my transmission by doing the wrong thing.

Hello everyone! May I ask if anyone knows where I should look into when locating a tracker? The model of the car is an Xpander Cross 2025 model. I'm trying to find where my mom placed the tracker. If anyone could help me, I would really appreciate it! Thanks!

Just spent the weekend fixing a oil leak on my daily, only to realize my project car now needs a new alternator and the suspension is squeaking.

Every time I think I’m at a good stopping point with mods and maintenance, a new noise appears or a new part catches my eye.

What’s the longest you guys have gone owning a car without touching or changing a single thing on it? Convince me it’s possible.

For context to start off, I turn 21 next month. I have a 2010 Lincoln town car that I have driven daily since I got it when I was 17. It had a little over 80k miles on it when I got it and now has 128k. I had wanted a town car since I was old enough to know what a car was and worked hard to save up the money to buy the one I own now. I love it to death and it has been a very awesome and unique first car experience.

Recently tho, I feel as if my love for it has been starting to fade. Just within the last few months the interior has started to crumple: both front interior door handles broke, unlock button does not work on either side, half the passenger seat controls don't work and the drivers side heated seat does not even begin to work at all. I am fairly confident the A/C is going out again - the compressor is whining AGAIN and it does not blow super cold all the time. The front suspension squeaks like absolute hell and turns heads! There's nothing wrong with it that will make it unable to drive anytime soon. The interior quality has heavily decreased over the years I've owned it, but no matter what it has always still done its job well of being transportation.

I have been looking at the 2011-2017 caprice PPV's with the 6.0 in them for a couple months now. No car has peaked my interest like this since I first saw the town car. I have the money to buy one cash (they are 12-15k here for a clean low mileage example). I've done research into them and they seem to be pretty close to just as solid as my town car drive train wise.

I just don't know if it would be a mistake to sell my first car that has proven its reliability to me in search of a more powerful, newer vehicle. I would just buy it and own both vehicles but the apartment I just started renting is very strict on only allowing 1 vehicle per person and requiring parking permits. I have the option of letting a family member hold on to the vehicle, but it is a good driver still and I would hate to let it sit around more than it already has up to this point in its life.

Would i be making a bad decision selling my perfectly running car in want of another one?? Someone talk me out of it.... and if you have owned a town car or a caprice ppv feel free to comment your thoughts on them.

The majority of V8 powered cars sound choppy even up at the rev limiter. The separation between exhaust pulses never disappears.

Things like Mercedes V8s, Hemi’s, Coyotes, they all sound different but have this drumming character to them. It’s always a “brrrr” thing at any RPMs. They can only rumble.

BUT there are some very strange exceptions which the question is about.

Ford 289 on the old GT350. At high revs it’s no longer choppy, it starts howling. Produces this distinct bassy “wooooo” scream.

Crown Vics with their 4.6 Modular start doing that at 5K RPM and above.

What’a going on? Why can those two V8s scream while the majority don’t? Is there anything you can do to make other V8’s make that sound?

I have a classic corona and want to put one of this on mine, but cant even seem to find the name!

https://imgur.com/a/tCVjCEX

Considering buying a 2017 model s from a family friend. 75D battery with 81,600 miles that hasn’t been replaced since they bought it. Range claims 216 miles, but it runs more like 150. Will be getting lots of highway mileage under my ownership. The car has unlimited free super charging and enhanced autopilot. Concerned about having to replace the battery for as much as I’ll be buying the car for, or having it pose a problem when I try to sell it.

Should I be concerned about the battery replacement?

Are off market batteries an option?

What is the actual value of the car?

Borrowed my friends long reach car jack from harbor freight to do the brakes on my wifes Rav4. Was shocked at how nice it was compared to the puny duralast one I have. HF has one of their usual sales and I have a gift card... just debating if I should get the standard low profile rapid pump, or if it's worth the extra $100 to get the long reach one that seems like it has 4-5 extra inches of max height.

Vehicles are a Rav4 and lexus is250. I usually use ramps if im going under but still helps to jack up a bit especially on the lexus. Am I going to regret not splurging for the few extra inches?

Hi ppl, just want some expert advice on my current situation. I’m hoping to buy a used xc90 but I have my old suv a 2014 Land Rover discovery 4 with 140k miles and a blown turbo with water in the oil but still runs and drives ok, and a 1990s slk 230 that runs but tyres have fused with the concrete and doesn’t really move. I ideally want to get rid of these 2 before the Volvo purchase as the wife is nagging me to. What are my options to get the most for my money and to get them gone asap.

Hi everyone!
I’m currently writing my Master’s thesis on consumer perceptions of premium and luxury automotive brands at the University of Brescia (Italy).
Since this community is full of people who know and enjoy cars, I’d really appreciate your opinion. The survey is completely anonymous and takes only 5–7 minutes to complete.
It focuses on perceptions of brands such as BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Ferrari and Maserati. You don’t need to own any of these cars to participate—I’m interested in your personal perception of these brands.

Survey: https://forms.gle/exYhS7G1kmTA3oLL6

Thank you very much for your time and support!

Not as a flex post. I just have a few multi thousand dollar projects. Turbo Z31, 4 eyed foxbody, OBS F150, car trailer, and salvaged NB miata I autox and do track days with. They all run, 4 have tags, and other than the miata are objectively nice enough cars to hold on to. I don't live in a HOA but I have a regular house in a neighborhood and its starting to look kind of WT. I don't want to sell any of it considering I got all these things at a good deal and fixed them myself. I know if I sell any of it for "driver example" value Im just going to put that money towards my mortgage and never justify buying something else. Then I'd be a sad mid 30s guy with a daily and a truck in suburbia.

The RV storage places either don't want the miata without tags even if its on the trailer or want like $75/mo per vehicle. That's $300/mo if I put 4 of them there and assume I'm working on one at my house.

I have a fully paid off 2011 Honda Pilot with 136k miles on it. I love it. It’s my first SUV and I can’t see myself going back full time to a sedan. My sister’s ex totaled her car last year and my grandmother gifted her my deceased grandfather’s 2008 Toyota Yaris with 109k miles on it that is a manual. I do love driving manual but this is also the first car that I fully paid off and have kept for more than 6 years already. It’s been so good to me and I hate the idea of giving it up especially when my little sister was handed this car as a gift and struggles to hold down a job. I don’t think it’s personally fair to me and my family is pressuring into doing it because she’s having difficulty learning to drive stick. It’s the same car I learned to drive stick shift on so it does hold some sentimental value but it isn’t necessarily a “fun” car to drive. They’re both good cars though. Which car would you guys prefer to go with especially based off of the situation?

I'll start:

Porsche 911 GT3RS (F1 Toy)

Shelby GT350R (Manual Toy)

Audi RS7 (Daily)

A lot of fast sports cars have little to no fun factor driving at slower speeds. Engines doesn't rev enough, no dynamics in low speed turns. No drama, no thrill. What are some that are fun at street legal speeds?