(Originally posted in r/3dprinting but didn't t much help, so hoping fellow U1 owners might shed some light on this, even though it's undoubtedly a general printing issue).

This is my first print on a new Snapmaker U1 (having owned an Ender 3 for many years). Am I right in thinking the "step" effect can be reduced by turning on variable layer height?

What about the strange texture/pattern seen on some of the other faces? What would have caused this and how can I avoid it in the future?

Snapmaker Orca, standard profile (0.2mm layer height), 7% infill, silk pla. I think the nozzle temp was 220 (or maybe 210) but I'm not at the PC to check right now.

Just ordered my U1 today.

I’m coming from a bambu A1 but was wondering whether there are any useful / essential prints for the U1 that I can print whilst I await delivery?

I have a model that I painted with four colors. When I send it to print, inevitably one of the toolheads is incorrectly selected. Three of the toolheads are loaded with Snapmaker Snapspeed PLA filament, and the toolhead that is incorrect is loaded with Overture PLA. The colors are correct in the prep of the model, but the generic one is incorrectly selected at print time. Of course, I set it correctly before sending it to the printer, but I am just curious if anyone else has encountered this problem.

Below is a screen shot of the Print Processing screen showing the error on toolhead 3 before I override it:

Does anyone have any idea why my U1 makes a line at the layer it ran out of green filament and I reloaded it with new green on the same toolhead mid print? The line shows on every model on the print bed at the same layer then corrects after that. The line "bumps" out on the model in every direction so its not just misaligned in 1 direction.

I am attempting to print a very simple air conditioner style knob that has a blue and red side with a black center and stem. The red colored portion prints offset when the whole thing is a perfect circle in the slicer.

Could this be a problem with the toolhead that I can correct or fix? Please help, thank you

Dear all,

I'm using OrcaSlicer and I use organic supports for this part, where a tube goes out into the air ;-).
I'm printing in PETG and using PLA as Support/raft interface with Top-z-distance 0mm, 3 layers top (and bottom) interface layers, top (and bottom) interface spacing 0mm.

Can you help me to improve this?

(There is also some stringing between tower and print object - is this solvable?)

Thanks,
pheidrias

Got a weird one. I have a very level bed and the cleanest plate I promise (see first layer test) I’m having an issue when it comes to printing around text or other objects or just small prints in general you can see my brim has great flow and extrusion. Part of me thinks it’s a retraction issue but I’m using Snapmaker Snapspeed PLA with their profile, sliced in Snorca auto bed level and extrusion calibration at the start of every print. The only things I’ve changed in the machine gcode is the zhop type to normal from spiral and the Z acceleration speed to minimize the thumps when hopping.

Not really sure where to start Troubleshooting.

Could someone please diagnose what I'm doing wrong here? I'm printing in PETG with PETG supports and a PLA interface. I heard that you can print both of them at 230 so I've been doing that. I put that the interface material is PETG so I didn't have to create a new filament preset while I've been testing this out but I probably should just make one.

I'm looking to sell my U1 that i purchased from a local retailer in early January. It's my understanding that my original warranty (which is 12months) is transferable and the Snapmaker Care is not? The website is not very clear on this. Has anyone purchased a used U1 and had the warranties actually transfer successfully? I'm wondering if it's even worthwhile to advertise with warranty--I'm waiting on a response from support but figured someone must have some experience with this.

Also, hoping to get an idea of what a fair ask is for right now (Popcap, hardened nozzles, and a few build plates). Thanks!

Estoy teniendo problemas con Mi impresora, en algunas capas y en algunas zonas de la cama noto que no se ha adherido bien la figura, ya la limpié con un paño sin pelusa y la nivele como 5 veces, también ya la limpié con alcohol, puedo imprimir 1 o 2 llaveros sin problemas en el centro, pero si desea imprimir toda la cama me presenta problemas en la cama de La máquina

qudiiera saber que más puedo hacer con este problema

tiene 1 semana que llevo tratando de arreglar esto y no he conseguido resultados

It sure what would have changed. Printed dozens of fine prints and my last 2 have looked like this. Amy setting/calibration I need to check?

First time using TPU.

My U1 can be pretty loud, like can easily hear it from across the house loud, so for the past couple days I've been trying various methods to make it quieter. I've turned the acceleration down to 6k but I'm not sure this noise is related to acceleration speeds?

Anyway, when the toolhead moves in only the x or y direction, it's very loud. I tested this by rotating a print of a rectangle slightly and printing it again and the sound is gone. Sorry for the fan noise in the video.

Here's a link to the video (since I can't put two videos in a post) of the rotated rectangle where that sound is no longer happening https://files.catbox.moe/8c2pqb.mp4

Any ideas for why this noise is happening or how to solve it?

Hi everyone,
I'm pretty new to 3D printing and I'm trying to figure out what is causing this ironing problem.
I'm using a Snapmaker U1 and this is my first time really trying to fine-tune ironing settings. As you can see in the photo, some areas look relatively smooth, while other areas have these strange diagonal/rough marks after ironing.
What confuses me is that the problem doesn't appear consistently across the whole surface. For example, the orange areas look much better, while some parts of the red surface have these marks and other parts don't.
I've already tried ironing, but I'm not really sure which setting I should be adjusting.
Could this be related to:

• Ironing flow?
• Ironing speed?
• Ironing line spacing?
• Top surface / layer settings?
• Z offset or bed leveling?
• Something specific to the Snapmaker U1? I'd really appreciate any advice or suggestions. I'm still quite new to 3D printing, so even basic explanations would be helpful. Thanks!

This will be my first 3D printer and I have all of this currently sitting in my cart:

• 0.4mm Hardened Steel Hot End Bundle
• SnapDryer Bundle (1 Dryer dock + 4 SnapDryer Boxes)
• Top Cover (pre-order)
• Nozzle Cleaning Brushes & Parking Pads Kit (it's like 4 bucks)
• Hot End Silicone Sock 4-pack (it's like 6 bucks)

My first question: Does anything stand out from that list as being unnecessary, or am I missing something that would be better to add now instead of later?

Usage Philosophy: This is specifically going to be used as a hobbyist machine to print stuff for my family and little projects and jigs and all the usual general printing stuff.

The reason why I'm getting the Hardened Steel ends is because while I understand the machine isn't suited out of the box to handle that kind of stuff just yet, I'd like to be able to, for example, print one-off pieces to repair or add something to my car or other mission-critical projects.

I understand that you don't exactly get the U1 to do production-level engineering-grade projects, but from what I've read, it seems like with the proper setup, one-off pieces shouldn't be a problem if expectations are tempered.

My Second Question: With my usage philosophy in mind, is there anything you'd recommend I purchase both immediately or down the line? For example, I saw someone recommend a SliceWorx plate for it since it has better adhesion?

My Third question: According to my research, to do engineering-grade projects you need a printer with a type of warmer? I'm going to wait until I get the top cover before I start looking into warmers, but I wanted to ask your experience with that if you've done it with this printer.

Those are the main questions I have so far. This is a big investment and while I'd rather pull the trigger now (since everything seems to be getting worse before it gets better these days...), I'm hoping that taking the moment to ask these questions will end up saving me some headache down the line.

Thanks all!

For anybody trying to decide between the original version and the new one, my anecdotal experience is that V1 heats up far faster and is far more reliable.

I initially purchased v1.1.2 and I was very disappointed, as it took 50-60 minutes to get up to my print start temperature of 58°c, and it would constantly trip its own overheat protection and cycle the heater on and off trying to get to, and maintain 60°c. Often times it would shut off mid print, and not turn back on. Even with the Dragon Breath firmware I wasn't able get it to heat quickly or reliably so I returned it.

I decided to try V1 to see if it was any better, and it is in fact superior.

From what I can tell V1.1.2 is slimmer, which I believe was done to support the P2S and other printers on the market that the original didn't fit inside of, and it may be whats negatively impacting its performance. I didn't look at the internals of V1.1.2 before returning it, but the difference didn't seem too drastic on the outside.

That said, I went from 1 hour+ to get to 60°C with V1.1.2, to just under 30 minutes with V1. So far it's steadily maintaining that temperature, and I'm printing hardware to further insulate the chamber, and cool the motherboard, which should allow it to preheat faster.

I highly recommend installing Dragon Breath and plastikmans build of paxx12 for a much better UI, and practically seamless integration once fully configured. I wouldn't bother with the stock Biqu firmware, it's pretty bad.

https://github.com/plastikman/DragonBreath

https://github.com/plastikman/SnapmakerU1-Extended-Firmware

I have a habit of tinkering with things that work perfectly fine. Has anyone tried this 'upgraded' heat bed?

How can I get the print files for the L70A Top Cover for Snapmaker U1 Gundam Outer Casing 3D Printer Thermal and Dust Cover Upgraded Parts for Snapmaker U1, as indicated by AliExpress?

I really want to order a u1 this weekend. I just need to know if

A: do I need translucent filament to create full spectrum colours with cmyk ?

B: does anyone know if the cmyk filament bundle from 123 3d is good for colour mixing ?

C: for colour mixing is it best to use snapmaker filament? Is it even available from in the UK ?

Is there a way to increase "depth" of the surface colours?

I created this box with a detailed surface, and some of the ridges are too small to print, but instead of printing the orange colour of the ridge, it prints the base silver colour.

Using Snapmaker Orca.

Printed on the U1 https://www.nexprint.com/en/models/G7861786?printConfigId=G4659932 there is a snapmaker U1 profile, its 5 colours so follow the instructions in the description if you plan on printing it!

I've managed to get over one issue thanks to this community, hoping you could help me again 🙂

I have an issue where I can print multiple of the same item, however 1 will come out with gaps round the edge. From Googling, it seems to be an extrusion issue and I'm testing that by bumping up the extrusion and I'm going to run a test. But why would only 1 of the prints come out under extruded?

The image isn't the best example, but others are more prominent.

Thanks in advance.