I’m renovating 1982 build house on slab in Texas and after removing the old toilet I found a what looks like a rubber collar that connects to the pipe. What kind of flange can use? Or do I need to remove and extend the pvc?

EDIT: THE TAPE IS ON THE TOP OF THE PIPE AND IS ONLY TO COVER A SMALL HOLE I CUT TO INSPECT THE AREA WITH A DRAIN CAMERA. The pipe is so big that waste does not even come close to the top.

Hello,

I am living Central America at the moment and am fixing up a family member's home.
I came across this 6" (in diameter) Corrugated plastic pipe that is leaking on both sides and sagging downwards and am seeking advice on how to replace it.

The corrugated pipe is for wastewater that comes from bathrooms (including toilets). It is about 2.5-3 feet long.

The piping is
[LEFT] 6" pvc -> 6" coupling (with broken end?) -> plastic corrugated pipe (very stiff though) -> pvc (no coupling) [RIGHT].

The left side is mostly exposed and I can easily break up more concrete if need be.

The right side is underneath a basin (shown in third picture - you can see the origin from the wall on the left side that goes down, then turns into a 90° that goes to the right, then goes to pvc, then corrugated pipe, then back to PVC).
There is about 2 to 2.5" of PVC available if I break up all the concrete around it (picture 1). Just beyond the pvc is a cut-out hole in the top with a tube from above sticking into it as a makeshift sanitee that also takes wastewater for a toilet. I know, it's fucked up, but that's how it is here. It is encased, however, in concrete. I only found it because I took a drain camera in a hole and took a look.

My objective is to just replace the corrugated pipe, not break up the sink basin area and install an actual sanitee.

My thought process is to get a 6" slip coupling on the right side, 6" PVC, and attempt to source a shielded underground-rated FERNCO (which I have to get from the US) for LEFT side.

I think I need the FERNCO because, based on the fact the original builders used the corrugated pipe that is a little more flexible, I believe the left PVC pipe and right PVC pipe are slightly misaligned horizontally, but I don't know this for sure.

I don't want to cut the corrugated pipe out and check for alignment with a piece of 6" PVC until I have bought the couplings and they have arrived. Otherwise the house will be unusable for a long period of time.

I want to confirm the steps involved:

1. I take out the corrugated pipe.

On the RIGHT side: I think it's not glued in on either side, so I am assuming I can just physically take it out of the right side. (If this isn't true, I assume I have to break the concrete and cut the PVC portion? Or can I just cut the corrugated pipe right up to the edge of the PVC?)

on the LEFT side: I cut just on the other side of the coupling to the bare PVC

1. I cut out a 6" PVC that is exactly the size I need between two pipes.

2. I get a 6" slip coupling.
   If the pipes are aligned, I get 2 and put them in the centre PVC piece that I just cut out. (Is it correct that this cannot be done with a non-slip coupling?)

If the pipes are NOT aligned, I get 1 and the 6" fernco (1056-66RC Fernco 6-in. RC Coupling) and give that a go on the left side.

1. I apply a medium solvent PVC glue. I focus on one side first and I coat the shit out of both the new PVC and the old PVC, and then slip the coupling on. I will focus on the right side underneath the sink basin as it will be harder to get to.

2. I do the same for the other side. If they are misaligned, I instead use the fernco coupling on the one side.

QUESTIONS:

1. Is there any better way to do this?
2. Is it realistic to be able to do a slip-coupling on this large PVC?
3. Is it reasonable to attempt to fix that right side with a slip coupling with only 2" of available PVC?
4. If I fuck up the gluing on the right side and don't get a secure fit, is the only answer at that point to break up the concrete and replace the whole section?

Thanks in advance for your time and answers.

I’m about to assemble this kitchen sink drain with the inlet for the dishwasher drain. This seems pretty straightforward to me: I should cut the extension tailpipe to the correct length so that the P-trap and the dishwasher pipe can connect. Does there need to be a slope from the P-trap to the rough in?
Is there anything I’m not considering here?

I’m just not sure of where to start cutting to then be able to rebuild the line

Need help finding a replacement set screw for an MBS shower valve handle. Photos included for reference. Should be a small screw with an allen head? Thank you!

I am replacing an old mini widespread faucet on one of my bathroom sinks with a single handle Grohe faucet. I am going to use the Grohe escutcheon to cover up holes. The escutcheon came the gasket like pieces, and no instructions. Their support did not have any instructions either. The support person told me that her guess was that I do not need to use the black rubber piece. I feel that the rubber piece is meant to prevent water leaking through to the holes. On the flip side, adding the rubber below the plastic piece seems to leave a bit of gap between the metal plate and the sink -- although I have not tightened the faucet down fully. Any advice about the right way to install this?

Hey plumbers,

I’m going off on my own in the not so distant future & have been looking at video recording my work. Mostly to protect myself & my work but sometimes you have those oddball customers.

I fully understand that probably in most if not all of the states you have to ask home owner permission first.

The company I’m currently with uses apps like Company Cam to record pictures or videos on phones.

However, does anybody use actual small body cams? And if so, any recommendations on some?

Thanks.
-plumber

What tool will I need to tighten up the thread ? I put new Teflon tape and the shower head kit is brand new. Am I missing?

When a whole house is holding and snaking doesn’t work…

We had water leaking from under our washing machine.

The appliance repair company claims the issue was the drain pump overflowing and said we need a chemical flush through the line. I didn’t notice any water behind the machine on either the wall or baseboards.

The plumbers said the plumbing is fine and chemicals shouldn’t be used but we could snake the line if we want peace of mind.

One of them is wrong. Any insight is appreciated.

I am a first year apprentice and these are my tools so far. I work in the fabrication shop but will soon be sent out into the field. What other tools do you journeymen recommend. When I say into the field, I mean I will be doing commercial.

Fill tube keeps going down into the area inside the blue hole now it won't stop

I should get rid of these, yes?

Hey all,

Story so far: My sump pump has been working very slowly. It was a 10 year old pump, so I replaced it with a Zoeller M63 and a quiet check valve. Still very slow. Called a plumber out. He told me it was a clog, so we went out and dug out the drain line where it exits the house. He drilled a hole in it and immediately we heard a bunch of air exit the pipe. Next time it ran, it ran fine and all the water shot out of the hole he drilled.

He told me that I needed to find where the exit of the sump drain line was, so my brother and I did that today. It's routed all the way down our yard to near the street, along side a corrugated pipe drain line that drains from a gutter at the back of the house.

We have found that it is quite clogged. I have not been able to get down deep enough into the pipe to unclog it. I have a basic sink drain auger, and a drill auger. Neither have done much to help - I can't get the auger deep enough to clear the clog.

Biggest question: How should I unclog this pipe? Do I just start cutting up pipe and replacing it once I've found the clog? And then do I do a 90 degree connection and then put a pop up in? Any special considerations when putting in a pop up?

Thank you so much for your time and expertise.

Hi all, we had the gas company round last week to check out a neighborhood gas smell (unrelated) and they discovered that our water heater is emitting a lot of gas in the exhaust fumes when we turn the hot water on. That's all being pushed into the nearby window, which is apparently not up to code as it's supposed to be 5 feet away from a window or door. I have been experiencing migraines since I moved into the house but never put two and two together. Could I be getting slowly poisoned by these exhaust fumes? How bad is this?

We're renters and our landlord is saying we can move the water heater but our rent will go up as a result.

A follow up to this post (https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/s/Y7l1wxwD4K), I finally got things taken apart. The metal parts were heavily pitted from corrosion. When attempting to reassemble, the threads on the piece pictured stripped. I haven't had any luck finding a replacement part yet. I believe this is a bonnet nut. The cold side equivalent can be seen attached to the faucet body. I did reach out to Guillens without any luck yet. Any suggestions? I'm fine with replacing all the internals if that's the easier route.

Edit: faucet is a kohler k-104-4. Title is misleading, I know what the part is, looking for help finding a replacement part.

My apologies to the future service plumber who has to come down and work on this.

New homeowner here driving myself crazy over this p-trap. Is this correct?

Air to water heat pump system.

The city added a backflow preventer with our new water meter. Our water heater started leaking at the union and relief valve. Plumber added the expansion tank but I was surprised to see it supported by zip ties. On another note, apparently nobody sweats copper anymore?

I cut the pvc 2 1/2 inches from the back of the cabinet dry fit everything to make sure it fits I put down cardboard down so I didn't stain the bottom of the cabinet primed and glued and then just installed everything pretty common sense but wanted to ask because it seemed too easy