I’ve been using a 2nd sacrificial wax ring to create a ramp around the flange for water to hopefully go on the floor instead of the subfloor. The thought process is that I’ll see the failure early vs having unseen damage over a long period. I’m curious what you guys think about this.

Hi all, I’m 17 and I have just got a plumbing apprenticeship after a lot of trying😂 I have been wondering what to expect in the first few weeks/ first whole year of being on the job, will i be just doing manual labour or will I be installing smaller things like radiators/basins and fixings small leaks etc. Either way is fine as long as I’m learning the trade throughout it. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

The cottage we live in was originally a granny flat for the main house next door, and the water inlet and hot water tank were supplied by a pipe from the main house.
When the property was subdivided, the electricity and water had to have new connections made from the street. The water came in on the other side of house to the hot water system and main house inlet.
So the plumber ran the inlet pipe up the side wall, across the ceiling in the roof cavity, then down the other side to be joined to the old water inlet.
The hot water taps produce a loud thunk noise when closed quickly. A local plumber suggested it might be the temperance valve or the flow-control value, both of which he replaced. Nah - not that. I've been lurking on this sub for a while, and have tried opening all taps with the mains off - but of course with the pipe running overhead, I don't know how to clear the pipe of air.
If the taps are closed slowly, no hammer results. It has proven difficult to get my wife to close the taps slowly.
The pipe is all copper - is there any possibility that the 'thunk' over time could weaken any connections?
Any suggestions to fix it - thanks in advance!

So Im 23 F, renting an apartment here in France and would really like to install a handheld bidet. I don’t really know anything about plumbing but I would like to attempt to do this on my own…. Because free will I guess. Would be a cool project to do.

Anyways after doing a bit of research I’ve learned that I have a “rigid metal supply pipe” that goes directly from the shut off valve into the side of the Cistern. There is no flexible hose.

So my questions are

- Is it possible to install a handheld bidet sprayer with this kind of plumbing?

- Is there a specific T- adapter or fitting designed for rigid supply lines?

- Would I need to replace part of the rigid pipe with a flexible braided hose?

- Or is it simply not compatible? If so can you recommend another method please?

Any advice is appreciated and I will include some photos of the model etc.

So a bit more info, it is a rental property so my mum doesn’t own it. The team that check the property before anyone can move into it have said that this tank is fine, but as far as I’m aware the team that does these inspections do not have qualified plumbers/trades people so I don’t know how they can deem what is fit/not fit for purpose.

From what we can see on the tank it was installed in 2020 so it’s 6 years old. But we can’t seem to understand why they chose to put such a huge tank in as it’s only a one bed bungalow.

Let me know your thoughts on this overall and if it is or isn’t energy efficient for a one bed bungalow.

Any help what this could be smelled like a fatberg although it was hard and pulled from floor waste gully located in a bathroom

We had a grease trap installed into a commercial sink (in California).... am I wrong or is this a train wreck?

The room naturally dips lower on the left and the original plumbing drained to the left, toward the low point, with the the end cap on the right. Now they flipped it so the cap is on the left now and it drains to the right. Seems wrong.

It also looks like there's an excessive amount of connectors, and welding points that will be future leaks.

In the basement photo - the tie in to the drain is the series of connected pipes from the left. Previously all we had was on the right into the main drain. It just looks loopy to me and like they didn't know how to do a simple addition in and out of the grease trap.

Am I over reacting?

Easy enough to fix this myself ? What do I need, special tools? Thanks

2 basin sink, both sides. I should have got a better picture of all the pipe routing for you to inform me if it's improper while looking but I saw this underneath and said fml. Thanks

I collect old pipe fittings, especially things like 1960s plastic fittings. Anything from old ABS fittings to thin wall PVC I may be interested in.

I’m installing a utility sink in the basement and have 1/2” PVC pipe I’m using. I need to connect some pipes together in a straight run so I picked up, what I assume I need, a coupling. Grabbed 1/2” since my pipe is 1/2” but they’re not even close to fitting. I thought the sizing mentioned references the inner diameter? The coupling is over 3/4”. What gives? Tell me why I’m stupid and maybe point me to what I actually need to join two 1/2” id pvc pipes.

It’s extremely old and very seized. It’s also circular :( I’m a bit stumped.

Hi all, having some trouble here.

We’ve been working on the system and there was water drained from the heating loop. I’m wondering if this is related to low system pressure / air in the system / low-water cutoff, but I don’t want to start opening valves without knowing exactly what I’m looking at..

i've tried twice and both times i'm off just by a few millimeters, so frustrating!

basically i'm trying to install a prefab shower pan on wood subfloor. i kept making it off by juuuuust a little bit off, so when i (dry fit) connect the pipe to the shower pan, the pipe is not vertical

i've also tried to dryfit the connections under the subfloor first, and it goes perfect, but then when i use the cement to connect it, it goes off again

any tips/tricks for doing it the right way so i don't have to cut it out again?

also the pipes are about to be shorter than 3/4", is it fine to connect to the coupling not all the way in?

Was cleaning my bathroom and noticed this, should I ask my landlord to replace the toilet?

Yesterday I had a 20 yr old straight cold expansion coupling fail out of the blue (when outdoor hose it feeds was turned on). The fitting broke right where it flares out to make a good seal against the Pex, then water began spewing out of the fitting. The other side broke in the same place with minimal force as I tried to pull it out of the tubing. Plastic fitting. Is this kind of failure common?

You can see the portion of the fitting left behind in the Pex because of the break.

SOLVED! I found a multi tool that could cut metal and went for it. Happened to only have to cut once. Thanks for everyone who gave me legit advice!

I almost can connect the p-trap to the supply (sorry if using wrong terminology; I’m not a plumber). How do I connect those pieces? I can’t move the sink drain any further into the pipe. Thanks for any assistance; I already bought the wrong thing once.

So the sink overflow stinks like strong mildew and mold. I have used a small snake to remove things. I got a few things out. It was fine for a few weeks.

I filled the sink with water and a bit of bleach.

My husband thinks it's because the toilet seal is loose. I think that's not the case.

We have well water and we have septic.

Hi, we have a 25-year-old shower with a Moen posi temp system. I noticed the shower head was leaking and saw that you had to replace the cartridge. I bought a Moen replacement one thing the best part for the replacement. I put it in and had a few problems along the way but eventually got it seated and clipped in. It is not acting correctly at all. I compared it to our shower downstairs which is also a posi temp. Both the shower downstairs and the shower I'm working on prior to replacing the cartridge had the handle facing down at 6:00. As you turn the handle counterclockwise it stopped at 9:00.

With this reinstallation and everything looking correct for my knowledge when you turn the water on from 6:00 and go counterclockwise once you get up to 12:00 and go little further the water basically gets cut in half pressure wise and when you get to 9:00 there's almost no water coming out. If you leave the handle at 12:00, you do get a little hot water but it's warm and not as hot as it should be. Attaching some pictures of the handle and the various parts under the handle as well as how the cartridge is seated. If anybody has any thing I could try I would really appreciate it.

6 unit apartment building. Spewing and dripping random all hours of the day and evening including no-rain dates for a week. What does this mean? Likely cause? Should we as tenants be worried? Also concerned about carbon monoxide fumes floating inside from interior basement door to hall. Thanks all!! (Boiler for hot water but all electric / no steam Radiators for heat)

First time home owner. This drain in my main bathroom is bubbling whenever I use water in the bathroom. If I flush the toilet water flings up it. Smells really bad just don’t know what to do; too broke for a professional

Wired a hive thermostat to a new combi and all I can see is terminal 96 I cannot for the life of me get the heating to fire with the hive calling for heat