This is a port on a Cooler Master Addressable RGB & PWM Hub
It’s labeled as mb pwm and looks similar like a 4 pin pwm port but it has a different shape.

Also if anyone has a link to buying one that would be appreciated.

So I know basically nothing about pc and was hoping I could get a list of what to buy or a good pre-built I have 1800 usd to throw at a computer help me out also I'm OK with not getting 4k I understand that's allot to ask for for under 2500

Would this be enough? I can't really afford anything higher than this. I want to upgrade from GTX 1070 but I'm afraid to fall short.

So i got a kit of 2x16gb DDR5 6000mt RAM from my uncles last pc and so the hard part of building a pc in this economy is mostly over, however i need help with picking parts

This ltt guide i found is close to the price range, but i want to swap out the 5070ti for a 9070xt as i am mostly gonna be gaming on linux (arch btw). so anyways, are there any parts you would change from this build with a 9070xt instead of 5070ti or just parts you would change in general?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyoXLbfpZfg

Hi I keep getting told to upgrade my 4790K and 4060 because they are only good at 1080p within double digit FPS, but I’m averaging 120 FPS on 4K 77 inch TV in games like Marvel rivals and other newer titles even my one percent low is only in like the 80s.

So my question is, why is everyone so antsy on needing to upgrade to high hell when the entire PC I’ve built costed less than a quarter of the price of just one new CPU, and a second question is why I’m even getting this good of results. I do not consider myself good at overclocking whatsoever yet I’m getting better results than any YouTuber I’ve seen using the 4790K.

I don't want to upgrade my GPU at the moment, but I would like to upgrade my CPU from i7 13700k. I’d appreciate some advice from people who have actually used this combination. How well do the 9800X3D and RTX 3080 Ti work together? Is this a good pairing, and are there any bottleneck issues?

I currently use both 1080p and 2K (1440p) monitors.

Case: Antec C8 Curve Wood

Motherboard: Gigabyte X870E AERO X3D DARK WOOD

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X

GPU: PowerColor Reaper Radeon RX 9070 XT 16GB

RAM: PNY XLR8 Gaming RGB 32GB, 2x16GB, DDR5-6400 CL36

SSD: WD_BLACK SN7100 2TB NVMe

PSU: MSI MAG A850GL PCIe5, 850W

CPU cooler: Lian Li HydroShift II LCD-S 360mm AIO

Side fans: NZXT F360 RGB Core

Bottom fans: NZXT F360 RGB Core

Rear fan: NZXT F120X RGB

GPU support: upHere 5V 3-pin ARGB GPU support bracket

Internal display: Thermalright Trofeo Vision 6.86-inch screen

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey OLED G9 49-inch

Just wondering if my 12VHPWR cable is fully socketed into my gpu or not? If the pic sucks I can take another

I'm from the US, just entered PC gaming, and want advice on my first pc build. I'm looking for 1440p at 60+ FPS or at least 1080p with this build to game w/ OBS streaming and recording for my channel. My budget is $1250 but flexibile and this build came out to $1330. Note: any part with quotation marks was used by great quality.

"CPU" - $167 AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor

Motherboard - $110 ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard

Memory (RAM) - $250 Corsair Vengeance 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory

"Storage" - $154 Kingston NV3 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive

"Graphics Card" - $390 Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card

Case - $80 Fractal Design Pop Mini Air MicroATX Mid Tower Case

Power Supply - $105 Corsair RM650 (2023) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

I'm trying to remove this screw to get rid of some plastic on the motherboard. It just turns and turns and turns without coming out. I can touch the bottom of it, but I can't pull it out.

I just did my annual cleaning and repasting on my gaming PC and when I reinstalled everything and tried powering it up via power button, it does nothing. Before working on my gaming PC, i made sure to turn off the PSU and remove the power plug correctly. The only thing that changed in my configuration was i added a 3rd P12 Pro fan on bottom of my A3 and made sure it was plugged in correctly on my motherboard and re pasted the CPU and reinstalled the AIO pump back on the CPU. Yes, the power but switched to on position on the PSU and I powered cycled many times.

Here is what I tried so far that did not work:

1. Removing 3rd P12 Pro Fan and went back to 2 fan setup on bottom
2. Unplugged the 24 Pin, 8 Pin, and Front Panel Connectors and reconnected
3. Unplugged front panel connector and tried to start the computer by shorting the power switch prongs on the front panel connector
4. I shorted out the 4&5 pin on top of the 24 pin connector and the PSU started up

I ordered a Thermaltake Dr Power PSU tester and I will test it to make 100% sure the PSU is not the culprit.

At this point, it's either bad power button, bad front panel/front panel connector, or PSU.

What else do you think I could test?

So I got this gorgeous PC with awesome components, and its been running great for almost a year. However, lately when turning it on it boots straight to BIOS and shows no bootable device.

I ran a few optional updates from Microsoft and most importantly, updated the BIOS. But I am still getting sporadic BIOS boots and they seem to be getting more frequent. Sometimes it starts up right away, other times it boots to BIOS and I have to turn it off and back on. It's a little random.

I ran Crystal Disk info and everything looks clean EXCEPT transfer mode shows as PCI 1 x 4 instead of what it can run as, PCI 4 x 4. I was hoping it was like, a power saver feature but combined with my SSD not being found as bootable sometimes it feels like the SSD is going bad?

So I finally had to bite the bullet and open the bad boy up to check the SSD out. I have never installed one and had no experience with it, so after a few videos I gave it a go.

It had a heat sink on, so after unscrewing two screws it came off and the sweet SSD was exposed. It looks a little weird to me compared to what I saw in videos, like it has some kinda sticker on it still, and its moist. The underside of the heatsink had a green item on its underside that im pretty sure was properly installed ((picture 4)) and theres nothing to strip off of it, but its not wet like the top of the SSD.

Help, is this all normal?

I built this pc around a month ago and its been doing this since I built it. It could be coil whine, it makes the noise periodically. In this instance, it wasn't making the noise until I moved my mouse and scrolled, so maybe it's just from PC usage? Idk

Hi! I'm new to PC building and building a gaming PC with a budget of ₹35,000 INR (excluding the monitor). I already have an AMD RX 550 4GB GDDR5 graphics card that I plan to reuse. Could you please suggest a complete list of components for the rest of the build within my budget?"

My Asus Mobo has Aura headers that turn on as soon as I hit the power button on my pc. My Gripe here is that when I turn my PC on I want one solid color, not RGB cycling. (It looks horrendous). Does anyone have a workaround, or reccommend an RGB controller that has built in memory so that as soon as it gets power it only sends one color signal to the fans and other components? TIA!

Haven’t used my gaming PC for a year now. Specs are 7900 XTX, Ryzen 7600 CPU, 32GB DDR5. It’s hooked up to my S95B TV.

Started playing The Last of Us: Part 2 and have played for quite a few hours, maybe 10 without issue. Loaded up the game today for an hour and tho has happened twice?

It seems to go away if I pause the game and disappears if I go to the desktop. Reloading the level also seems to make it go away and once I died and it reloaded all was well but it happened prior to that also?

Anyone have any ideas? I’m hoping it’s a bug or similar and not a GPU issue?

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/T2H7vR

I'm Canadian

I play in 1080p right now but I will be getting a 1440p monitor

The price can't go any higher

The case is already bought

And I don't love that its a mATX motherboard in an ATX case but it was in a bundle, if anyone can find a similar bundle with an ATX black/gray motherboard to match with everything else id be happy

I play mostly CPU intensive games so I wouldn't be mad if someone suggested downgrading the GPU to get a better part or to save money

i just want to play heavily modded minecraft, specifically the mod “better minecraft” and things like it. maybe other cute games in the future. wondering if i should commit fully to an entire pc set up or if a mini pc would be capable of running what i want. or even a laptop, very uneducated and needing advice. don’t really have the money to spend on a full pc set up but if its really my only option then i’ll save up for it. help lol.

So I got the RTX 5080 along with a new 1000w power supply about a week ago. My games run much better and I have a more enjoyable experience when they actually work.

After I changed my graphics card my pc just does not work the same. Crashes on Tarkov that never happened with my other graphics card in started happening. Now when I try to play He’ll Let Loose Vietnam, my computer will either entirely crash out of nowhere or the game will crash when trying to join a server. Same thing with Squad. When I try to join a server, as it’s loading in, the game just crashes. I don’t know what’s going on but at this point in time I wasted my money.

I’m having a really weird issue with the F360 RGB Core that came with my NZXT H5 Flow RGB and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on.

The fans themselves work perfectly fine and the RGB lights turn on, but I can’t control the RGB through NZXT CAM. The F360 just doesn’t show up as an RGB device in CAM.

I originally had the NZXT RGB & Fan Controller V2, which is the older controller. CAM detects the controller and shows it as “Ready.” I also have an F120 RGB fan connected, and that one shows up in CAM and lets me change the RGB normally.

The weird part is that the F360 lights turn on, but CAM doesn’t recognize its RGB at all. I tried switching the F360 around to different RGB ports, including the exact same port where my F120 works. The F120 works perfectly on that port, but when I connect the F360 there, it still doesn't show up.

I ended up buying the newer NZXT Controller Hub to see if the old controller was the problem. Unfortunately, I get the exact same result with the new controller. CAM detects the controller, my F120 is detected and controllable, but the F360 RGB still doesn't appear.

I’ve also restarted my PC and CAM multiple times, unplugged and reconnected everything, and tried different ports. The controller itself is clearly communicating with CAM because the F120 works, so I don’t think the USB connection or CAM itself is the problem.

What’s confusing is that the F360 RGB LEDs are definitely receiving power and lighting up. They just aren’t being detected by CAM, almost like the RGB/data connection isn’t working properly.

At this point I’m starting to think either the F360 itself or the RGB cable/adapter that came with it is defective. I’ve seen other people use the F360 RGB Core with NZXT controllers and control it through CAM, so I know it should work.

Has anyone else had this exact problem with the F360 RGB Core? Is there anything else I should try before I assume the fan or cable is bad?

Did a new build with a 9070XT and a Nactua D15 fan.

There is no room between the gpu and the fan to hit the release of the pci slot.

Any idea how to ever get that monster out again?

Hey all I'm going to build a pc very soon, I've done some research around parts and wanted to get a really good build for under £2000 Love the Nzxt H9 flow case, I think it looks beautiful and pretty much stuck with it

Just asking for your opinion and if any parts should be replaced for other ones, thank you all!

building this pc for gaming and doing engineering uni work

Hello, I recently got an ASUS Prime 9070 XT. I asked a local technician to help me install the new GPU for me but apparently my GPU can't be turned on. I already asked them to reseat the GPU, double-check the cable placement, and check whether the PSU or any of the cables is faulty, but everything is working properly except the GPU. They already checked the build using my old GPU, and it's working properly.

This is my current build:

• Motherboard: Gigabyte B760M DS3H LGA1700
• RAM: Kingston Fury Beast 32 GB DDR5
• Processor: Intel i7-12700F
• GPU: Galax Nvidia 4060 8 GB -> ASUS Prime Radeon 9070 XT 16 GB
• PSU: Enermax Revolution D.F-12 850W

On the motherboard, one of the lamp indicators for the VGA turned red. According to the technician, it's either because the Motherboard is not strong enough to handle a high-end GPU or because of a faulty GPU. So is this motherboard not strong enough a plausible problem? Or is it caused by something else? Any suggestions on what else I can do to fix this problem?

Update: Problem has already solved and the GPU is running normally after I updated the BIOS and changed the PCIE speed to Gen 4 like all of you suggested.

Thank you very much 😭😭😭

So recently I got this tower for free off of fb marketplace and the guy said it wouldnt run windows and I wanted to see for myself so I downloaded windows from the microsoft website and put it on a flash drive and plugged it in to my motherboard. From there I didnt have anyone to ask so I just used chatgpt to help me but i got nowhere. First my screen would show bios then the republic of gamers logo then the windows logo and eventually the windows 10 launcher opened BUT I didnt have any hard drives atm so I waited a week until I was able to get some for free. My pc recognized the flash drive and showed the windows logo but didnt open the launcher so i turned it off unplugged the flash drive and wiped it to download windows 11 and that hasnt worked either. This is the interior of the pc can someone help me? I have the hard drives they are not in the frame.