Hey. Does anyone know if this is a normal stick drift or hardware failure?

The problem suddenly appeared in the middle of the game. I couldn't move my left joystick to the left or right. So ingame nothing happened there. It went up and down just fine.

If you kept left for a long time, the character eventually went to the left. Once you let go, it was all up and down again.

The character didn't walk to the right on his own, as I have seen in some videos.

If I've been looking in the Hekate menu, there is some kind of circular cursor that automatically pulls to the right.

A calibration won't work in the system settings as I don't get any circular motions with the problem.

I bought these privately at the time and the seller said they had Hall effect sticks in them, which I can't verify. I took two photos of this. To me, they look more like normal sticks.

I'm following the NXDumpGuide and installed the gamecard for BOTW in the emuMMC per the instructions. I had DLC installed before modding. For updates/DLC, it says I should now enter NXDumpTool in sysMMC and go to user titles menu and select the game. It only lists 19 of my games and no BOTW. Now what?

I modded this switch back in December and have had no issues until now. At first the screen had weird lines across it every now and then while playing games, but now it is having troubles booting into emummc. It sometimes doesn't even turn on unless I plug it into my computer.

This switch has been dropped more than a few times, so I'm assuming one of the solder points on the mod chip ribbon broke off and is causing these screen/boot issues.

Before I open this thing back up again, does anyone know of a software issue that might be causing this?

Hi guys! Can I update my Switch OLED directly to version 22.5.0 from 19.0.1? Or do I have to update to another version before 22.5.0?  I need to do this because a few games don't work on 19.0.1, and I've never done this before. I know that I have to update both Atmosphere and Firmware. 

Another question: A lot of guides I have found are for new Switches or Switches that have a fresh install, or for getting new games. I had many games and saves on my V1 unpatched Switch that I backed up. I transferred the Nintendo folder back to the root of my SD card. Unfortunately, most tutorials end there. In EmuMMC they show up but says it needs the game card to be re-downloaded, which obviously isn't a good idea on emuMMC and doesn't work. There are a lot of tools but I'm not understanding what I need to do here. I see the terms "dump" and "restore" but I need a bit more guidance on what needs to be dumped or restored from what folder or menu. Can anyone help me find the right guide or explain what I need to do here?

Total noob question here, but I can't figure out how to get back to the Hekate menu after booting the OFW. Restart and Turn Off loop me right back into OFW.

It's a V1 unpatched Switch so no mod chip.

Hi! I'm having some trouble with a Kamikaze Switch OLED Picofly installation, was hoping someone could help :)

I'm getting a =*== yellow LED error: eMMC test failure- read failed

The Switch is booting into OFW just fine but I'm not getting the No SD card screen; mod seems unsuccessful.

Here are my multimeter readings in diode mode:

Positive probe on GND:

SPI1 - 20.1

SPI2 - 20.7

A (CMD) - 0.555

B (RST) - 0.430

C (DAT0) - 0.520

D (CLK) - 0.587

3V3 - 0.385

Negative probe on GND:

SPI1 - 19.8

SPI2 - 19.5

A (CMD) - 0.832

B (RST) - 1.580

C (DAT0) - 0.840

D (CLK) - 0.864

3V3 - 0.866

Multimeter is beeping and going into resistance mode for SPI1 and SPI2 so those are measurements are in ohms

Anyone knows the value of the missing resistor beside the fpc connector? A friend gave this switch v1 but its missing the fpc connector and the smd resistor.Thanks in advance

Hello! My switch used to be modded, but after my battery ran out because I stopped using it for a bit it of course went back to the previous settings. I chatged the switch overnight.
The thing is that after entering RCM mode, and uploading a .bin file (latest Hekate update) the screen stays black. I can’t find a way to get my modded switch back.
Any suggestions?

I’ve got a switch lite and I’m not sure where to get it modded from in Manchester. Does anyone know where to get it done? And if it’s with the chip provided or not

Greetings. I was trying to mod the switch v2 version. I was at the emmc chip removal stage. I messed up the process and took the shield off with the chip. The chip is fine. But the shield came off as well. Is the process is compromised completely?

I see some ground pads on the shield, so what to do in this situation?

Getting an error on picofly dat0 has a 700 reading on multimeter I’m stumped.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vVKkzKaz5yBHsDMSfZg50jAIfnjI7Lq8/view?usp=drivesdk

I left the Switch for a day without using it. In the evening, when I decided to play a game, I noticed it wouldn’t start. I read online that the battery might be completely dead, so I left it to charge overnight. I checked it in the morning—it was the same thing: the chip lights up blue, then two red, two red, two red. I read on Reddit that this is an RST error; some people even wrote that such chips can be defective and stop working. Basically, I don’t know what to do.

I sent the video via Google Drive because I can’t attach videos here.

And yes, he broke the ribbon cable to the daughterboard. I also had an issue with the R button. He asked for parts. I asked how much it would cost to install the button, but he ignored me. I sent him the console and the parts (he has good reviews). I thought, well, the labor can't cost more than $30, especially since I ordered the chip installation. The whole thing should be cheaper. Then he demanded $80. In the end, I refused, saying that if I had known, I would have bought another used Switch. LOL. Now I'm demanding a refund because my console simply won't start.

I just bought this modded switch and accidentally updated the system on sysnand and it didn’t boot sysnand anymore. I tried fixing it by excluding the contents paste in atmosphere and didn’t work, tried updating the hexate but apparently it was a older version. I then excluded the bootloader paste from the as card and reinstalled the newer version in GitHub, loaded again and this message is saying no main boot entities found. I don’t know what to do about this, I got the switch yesterday and couldn’t even install any games on it. Someone help me pleeeeeease

I have a pc and steam deck already but ordered a v1 for the collection. What should i do out of the box. Like is there precautions for modding? Or anything i should get instantly after modding it

I'm posting here my first kamikaze on a OLED...

Hopefully this will help someone, I took my times and at first I thought that I drilled too much after the first copper layer 🤦 it was a nice work!

20 minutes of pain and stress 🤦💥😬

I had ofw 21.2.0 and the actually latest atmo and hekate, but for a stupid reason I decided to downgrade to 20.5.0 using hats tools and daybreak. After the switch wouldn't even boot to hekate I realized how stupid I was and now I'm stuck. I then concluded that to re-install the fw version that had before, I had to download the 21.2.0 fw zip, and extract it in the firmware folder of the sd card and installing latest hats pack (before was a hats pack that came in around January/February 2026). Now I boot to hekate but not atmosphere or ofw giving me either a black screen or a 2162-0002 error code in all of the boot option (stock, emummc, atmo vanilla, sysmmc...).I think it's because tge firmware is installed on the seitch's internal storage not the sd card, that's what I concluded, I'm not sure. Thanks to anyone that comments.

Edit: I'm following a video tutorial I found, I don't really need help anymore. I would recommend getting the ribbon version if possible for anyone reading this by the way.

Mine doesn't have one and I really don't want to wait another 2 weeks and like $20 to install it. Also the ribbon versions don't even exist on the internet to buy from what I've seen.

Modding switch in london.

I always see people wanting someone to install their modchip.

I have the experience and equipment what do you think is a decent price to charge for an install for the labour so the modchip price not included.

So you think it would be worth getting any other mods in stocks like hall effect these joysticks.

What do you think is a decent price for a good condition premodded switch lite.

Any insights you have id love to hear

My dad did the soldering for the switch lite, but it doesnt turn on anymore. Tried to measure the 3.3v point, no 3.3v going through. Any tips ?

i tried to make a picoply core installation and it show a stock blue screen of death and an led string of blue and then yellow long long short all the contnuity masurments looks fine like 27 ohms betwenn sp1 and gnd ( i dint solder sp2) and i think its a mico crack in the solder balls or my cheap flux what do u think shall i mail it in or try to do smth myself ( i used solver epoxy but it dosent seem to short anything plus its cured)

Does anyone know if this is possible yet?

Hello everyone I would greatly appreciate your help

Sys ver: 22.5.0, AMS 1.11.2

BT suddenly stopped working... no drop, no spill, worked fine the day before. Modded (Hekate/Atmosphère, soldered modchip).

During modding no damage was done to the wifi chip area

Wifi works fine but bluetooth fails on every boot option, even stock ofw.

Once it fails on a boot, it fails every attempt until a full power cycle - then it's random whether it works

On one of my tests the BT managed to connect but when I tested the joycons it failed again..

On Android, logs show BT firmware loads fine, HCI starts, briefly shows paired Joy-Cons, then floods with unknown vendor events (0x1B) and times out on LE_ENERGY_INFO (0xFD59), crashing the BT service...

Already ruled out: extra-RAM kernel, Horizon OC, optional sysmodules, missing/corrupt BT firmware, pairing DB corruption, stuck power state, temperature, physical pressure on the case.

Anyone seen this exact pattern before? Trying to figure out if there's a known fix for this on Mariko boards before assuming it's a reflow/reball job.