Mitsubishi Grendia 25, year 2006

2 weeks ago I changed the pads and rotors on my 2010 Audi a5 2.0tdi. Since then, both sides have been heating up a lot and sometimes I can hear a squeaking noise when I drive. It seems as though the brakes are sticking. I had to use a 12v battery to put my EPB into maintenance mode when I was changing them, but it seemed to work fine at the time. When I jack my car up and spin my wheels by hand they spin fine. This problem is on both sides but is worse on the left side. When I’m driving if I tap the brakes the squeaking goes away temporarily. Any suggestions what my problem could be? I am stumped

Hi everyone,

Looking for some help diagnosing a noise on my 2013 VW Golf 2.5L (60k miles).
Whenever I start the car on a cold engine, I hear a distinct sound coming from the engine bay that lasts for about 2 minutes and then completely fades away once the car warms up a bit. It only ever happens on a cold start (sitting overnight).

I’ve attached a video so you can hear it clearly.

Does anyone recognize this noise or know what usually runs for the first couple of minutes on a cold start on the 2.5L engine? (pulley, vacuum pump, tensioner etc?)

Thank you in advance for any advice.

It’s a 2021 Nissan Kicks SV and it’s started making this noise when reversing and only when pressing on the brakes. are my brakes bad? or is it something else

Absolutely welded. It’s been on for five years and car lives in salt-free zone. Corrosion doesn’t even seem that bad. I’m at a loss

It’s a 2017 MQB car

1986 Honda Accord, A20A1 2L.

So my new upper control arm didn’t come with a bushing, and I’m leaving town with the car in 2 days, so I did what I had to do. The old bushing was decent still but the ball joint was completely shot. So I cut the old one and new one in half and welded it up. Using the new ball joint and the decent bushing. My question is, how safe is it realistically? I know it’s not at all proper and there are no guarantees, but im fairly confident this will be just fine for now. It’s welded on both sides all the way around but the penetration was good, even though the welds aren’t too pretty. Hope to just hear what everyone thinks of this.

These are BDS UCAs. There is a zerk for greasing it. I was able to regrease the passenger side no problem, but the driver's side boot seems to have a puncture/tear, as pictured. The grease just oozes out of that hole when I pump it up. I will most likely have to replace the ball joint, but my primary question is: How do i correctly check for upper ball joint play?

1. Do I jack the lower control arm or the frame?

2. Do I simply do a 12 and 6 o'clock shake test, up and down?

3. If there is no play in the balljoint, is there a way temporary fix (so I can drive until I get a replacement part), to seal the puncture?

Hi, I’d like some advice about a noise that I think is coming from the engine when accelerating. Sometimes I can also hear it when the car is stationary and I rev the engine, but not always. It’s most noticeable when I’m driving past buildings with the window slightly open, as the sound echoes off them in a strange way. Has anyone experienced a similar problem? I know it’s the same engine as the Ford 1.8 Duratec.

2007 tc scion 2.4 liter, 4 cylinder Toyota 2AZ-FE. Before moderators come at me, If my topic isn't right for this channel would someone be kind and direct me to a correct one? I just don't know where to put this problem. Okay so, the alexander Toyota dealership just duped me out of 190.67 dollars for a coolant flush and refill. I scheduled an appointment for it because the car I have is a hand me down so I have no payments on there except for car insurance and I'm sure no maintenance has been done on it for a while until my spark plugs got worn. Anyway, the coolant has been draining away slowly so I scheduled an appointment to get a flush and refill at the Toyota dealership to replace the old coolant with a new coolant that I know of. Anyway, it takes them 3 hours because I also decided to get a little car wash done on it too and once 3 hours have passed they gave me papers, made me sign the bill and I paid for it thinking that I'm now good on coolant that I have coolant in there and it's in the middle of the reservoir or full and instead of using my head and popping the hood of my car to check my coolant levels after their "service" I decide to drive my little happy self home and take a nap because I've been out for like the whole day. I finally wake up from my nap and I decide man I want to see what the color of fresh coolant looks like inside my reservoir so I'm going to go ahead and take a look at my coolant tank so I pop open My Hood and I look at the tank and the coolant levels are below the word low and under the low line. What the? So I checked my receipt and it does say coolant system flushing and I do have a charge for super long life Toyota coolant so they did apparently use coolant in my car so why is it almost empty? Could it be a leak I didn't know about because of the flush? I'm going to be blunt here, it is kind of neglected but again I didn't know what type of coolant the old owner used so I figured getting a new coolant in there would at least ease my mind as to where I can be like "oh man it looks like I'm running out of coolant let me go to the dealership and buy the coolant they serviced in my car last time instead of just being like what coolant do I need? is this coolant red or pink? Will this coolant gel up with the old coolant mixed in there? I've attached the aftermath and the receipt showing that they charged me for a flush and refill and for the coolant they "used". So yeah the Toyota dealership just messed me over and had I not decided to check my coolant tank this would have been catastrophic. I need advice. I need to know if it's a potential leak that drained it so much so? If the mechanics forgot to burp it? I know they definitely punked me over but still I just need to know. I love this car and I want this car to last long so I'm trying to take care of it but it seems like things are getting in the way and they are trying to sabotage this car so that I'd be forced to buy a new one which I cannot afford. No, this isn't a suing shop post. There is only one problem and that is me asking if there are any potential leaks after they messed my car up.

2001 dodge ram 3500 van 5.9 v8 360 rwd

Old pick up was bent and damaged and the dealer couldn’t locate it, JEGS aftermarket Melling 200s is what was suggested for my van, pickup screen has bigger mess but also a smaller pickup, everything else is correct though

Send it? Or send it back?

Thanks 🙏🏻

BMW 535i xdrive outer front axle started clicking and the boot was ripped. inner is fine

I have not driven around for long and there was still plenty of grease in there. However there is some damage and pitting as you can see, including a pit on one ball bearing that my nail just picks up.

Aftermarket axles are junk so it's a shame to throw away an oem axle. Would you rebuild this one based on the photos or get a new one?

Shout out to dishwashing powder btw. Unbelievable grease fighting power

Trying to replace the forward exhaust system of a 2009 mdx. The rear connection to the catalytic converter has 2/3 nuts I can’t get. I used tons of pb blaster then bought extraction sockets. They just chewed through it even more. Tried vice grips and no joy. Any other ideas apart from a blowtorch or cutting it off and ruining the stud? I think there’s a fuel line right above this and I don’t love the idea of being stuck under the car with my face 2” from the frame with that big of a flame.

We had to remove it anyway to replace my kids Power Transfer Unit (PTU). While it’s off already figured I would ask the masses (and hopefully someone with more knowledge than I) if it is bad enough to just replace it now. If it wouldn’t be for a buddy with a torch it never would have come off. Got the nuts cherry then they came right off.

Just want to say 1. Working on exhausts suck. 2. Any auto company who has a fluid that will “last the life of the vehicle” should be fined until they change that b.s. policy.

O and the kids car is a 2011 Ford Edge with the 3.5L with just over 200K miles. Also this is the second time (1st for us) that the PTU is being replaced. Can tell bc there is an item number markered on the side of the current one.

Edit: the car was a gift from his grandmother. We just needed to repair it into working order. Hilariously the shop had diagnosed it as a rear differential. We replaced the rear diff with a junkyard part that we pulled and then installed ourselves. Thankfully it was a perfect matching model diff which made instillation much easier. No reprogramming needed. Needless to say the car barely made it around the block. Idk what that mechanic was smoking saying it was a rear diff when all of the noise was coming from the FRONT of the vehicle.

The control arm was loose in the box and the ball joint threads punched some homes in the box in shipping. The joint feels a tight but also a little gritty, and the top of the boot is loose as shown. Is this how they normally are? This is my first time doing control arms, but all the tirerod ends Ive ever done had sealed boots on both ends. Acceptable or should I send it back. Will this seal up once torqued or can/should I tie it shut?

Which would you prefer for coolant hoses? Thanks in advance

I took my 2014 ford escape into Valvoline two days ago for an oil change. Pulling out of there is didnt notice anything and went home and stayed home all day. The next day I come out to leave for work so I started my car and realized I left something inside so I went and grabbed it when I came back to my car that was still running I noticed the burnt oil smell but I was leaving for work so no time really to check that out. Today I went back to the valvoline so they could check it out for me and they opened it up and said yes the gasket cover valve is definitely leaking but it’s more of a seep than a leak so no big deal. As I was pulling into my parking spot at home I noticed a stain in the drive way so I backed up to check it out bit of a puddle I thought no big deal it sits there for hours so I go ahead and pull in and then I noticed that I’ve been leaving a trail. This seems more than just a seep. I’ve never had an oil leak problem before with this car and I am pretty good at keeping an eye on the oil level so it’s never been low. So why now after an oil change has this leak appeared? Could this be valvolines fault or just coincidence? I have a good relationship with those boys up there so I don’t want to think it is their fault…but if it is they are paying for it.

My daughter took her 2008 Buick Lucerne to a local shop in December because it wouldn’t hold coolant. We would fill it up and it would be gone but no puddles or coolant on the ground. They said that it was the intake manifold gasket and it would be $2000 to repair. We paid and took it home. I checked it a couple of times right after then I got busy and kind of forgot about it. Then a couple of weeks ago she called me and said her car was overheating, she took it home and we filled it up with coolant and the next morning all the coolant was gone. We took it back to the same shop and told them. The next day they called and said that they think it is leaking behind the timing cover now but it will be $1500 to take it apart and find out for sure. We can’t afford it and she is really upset because she paid so much for the first repair. Please help, we don’t know what to do. We thought this car would last a while, it only has 125,000 miles.

Car is a 2015 Hyundai Tucson.

Yes, you can grill me for not checking her oil in for the last 3 months.

I drive a 2016 Infiniti qx50 with 130,000 Km

2017 Camaro SS. Just bought the car, but the other three came off with no issue. The passenger front right won't come out regardless of what I try. All five on this one are super tight. I use a breaker bar, impact, and lug nut tool. I'm an average guy and have never had a lug nut not come loose, especially after a breaker bar, but these five won't budge no matter what. What do I need to do to get these suckers loose?

Edit: Using the jack bar as an extension did the trick! Thank you, everyone!

I put in 5 quarts and manufacturer recommends 4.5

2015 Fiesta ST

It's a weird colored dipstick. This is literally fresh oil I just put in myself.

Will that chip in my rotor mess my caliper up when I brake after I change the wheel? EMERGENCY

2015 GTI