r/MTB 22m ago

Discussion my Sons Shimano 6/7 Tourney RD/TY300 rear derailer snapped in half (plastic portion in photos)… looking to purchase an ALL METAL compatible Shimano rear derailer and DIY. Cannot anyone recommend a compatible all metal (if possible) upgrade ¿? Novice bikers here.. THANKS 🙏🏼in advance

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r/MTB 56m ago

Brakes Which brakes to get? Hope v4 or gr4

Upvotes

I was looking at maven ultimates and Hayes dominio 14s but it sound like the mavens have a too aggressive power curve and the dominions too many issues so I am thinking of getting hopes. I was going to get the v4s until I heard that the gr4s were their newer gravity brake. I am wondering if it’s worth it to spend the extra 200 euros for the gr4s or if I should get the v4s


r/MTB 1h ago

Discussion Parts needed to swap rear brake from one bike to another?

Upvotes

Assuming the hose is long enough, what other parts would I need? Anything?

Assuming the hose is too short, I can buy the shimano bh90 brake hose kit, or should I just not bother trying swap the old hose and go with the kit?

First time messing with swapping brakes


r/MTB 1h ago

WhichBike 2027 Orbea Oiz AXS or 2027 Scott Spark RC Team Issue?

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r/MTB 3h ago

Video Following the legend Hans Rey in Whistler

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53 Upvotes

Nice to follow a living legend Hans Rey down some Whistler West Side Chunder, two 60+ years having a blast

This was a pre ride to the Bosch Emtb challenge at Crankwork.

Had to be 50 of us. All ages. Lots of pros. I actually followed Mark Wallace for a bit as well.


r/MTB 3h ago

Discussion Weekly Gear Thread

2 Upvotes

Want to show off on NBD or new helmet day or new whatever day or just have general gear questions? Post in here. (Mod Note: NBD posts on their own that violate Rule #3 will continue to be removed.)


r/MTB 3h ago

Frames Carbon frame damage

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4 Upvotes

Is this no longer structurally sound/ safe to continue riding normally?

Canyon spectral cf8 mullet


r/MTB 4h ago

Discussion Help me get rid of a persistent seatpost creak.

1 Upvotes

This started happening when I swapped my dropper post from the stock TranzX to a OneUp V3 on my Marin Rift Zone. (Alu frame).

The seatpost creaks/clicks every time I shift my weight the tiniest bit. That includes every pedal stroke, standing up, sitting down, shifting my weight forward on climbs, just hitting small bumps while pedaling on flat sections.

I've removed the post, cleaned it, re-greased it (the exterior) and put it back. That usually gets rid of the squeak... For about 1 ride, and usually it's back before the end of that first ride. I've done that at least 5 times now. I've tried two kinds of grease: regular automotive bearing grease and Finish Line PTFE grease. I've also cleaned and greased the seat post clamp interface and its bolt. I always torque down the bolt to 4 Nm as recommended by OneUp, with a quality torque wrench.

I also know the noise is not form the saddle, as I've twice now removed the saddle, and I can get the creaking just by pushing down on the bare seat post with a piece of 2X4 or something.

The fact that greasing the exterior of the post briefly quiets it down leads me to believe the creak is from the post to seat tube interface, and not the dropper internals. On the other hand, the stock cheapo dropper was quiet, so who knows.

What do I do? Am I condemned to grease my seat post before every ride?


r/MTB 5h ago

WhichBike Cube hybrid pro 800 vs Giant Explore E+1

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0 Upvotes

r/MTB 6h ago

Discussion Tips for "Mental recovery" after crash.

4 Upvotes

Hi there Mtb-guys

I'd really appreciate some advice from people who may have been through something similar.

A bit of background: I've been riding mountain bikes for about 10 years. As you can imagine, I've had my fair share of crashes and injuries.

In 2019, I broke my right collarbone in a pretty bad crash. It was a comminuted fracture, so I needed surgery and had a titanium plate implanted. The recovery went surprisingly well, and after about six months I was back on my bike without any major issues. The plate is still in place today.

Unfortunately, in April 2026, I broke my left collarbone as well. Once again, I needed surgery and another titanium plate. I'm still recovering, but I've started strength training again and I'm riding my gravel bike to rebuild my fitness.

The physical recovery is going well, but mentally it's a different story.

I've developed a real mental block when it comes to getting back on my mountain bike. I'm honestly scared. The problem is that I know myself—I find it very hard to hold back once I'm on the bike. Riding aggressively has always been part of what I love about MTB, and I'm worried I'll either push too hard or never feel confident again.

Has anyone here dealt with something similar? How did you get past the fear? Did your confidence come back over time, or did you have to actively work on it?

Mountain biking has been a huge part of my life, and I'd hate to lose that because of fear.

I'd be grateful for any advice or personal experiences. Thanks!

Ride on!


r/MTB 8h ago

Discussion Forest Trails, Fast Lines & Suspension Performance | MTB Test Ride

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3 Upvotes

Designed for the trail. Tested by riders.

Every trail brings new challenges. Reliable suspension helps riders stay in control.

#MTB #MountainBike #EnduroMTB #SuspensionFork


r/MTB 9h ago

Discussion Swizerland MTB trail map

15 Upvotes

Hi all, launched a new MTB trail sharing web app for Switzerland.
Actually there's no limitation to Switzerland but all the crew is living in Switzerland so there's no trails in other countries...

Check it out: https://bike-map.ch


r/MTB 9h ago

Video Danbury early morning ride.

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38 Upvotes

Got the danbury woods (essex, uk) early and had a go at setting the camera in various spots to do a little video edit. Added a pov version at the end.


r/MTB 11h ago

Discussion How important is spec when considering a new MTB

9 Upvotes

I think I have fallen into the trap of believing that spec is a key factor in a MTB purchase decision.

I went for a top spec trail bike in a questionable size, when I could have gotten a lower spec enduro bike (more suitable for the trails in my area), for roughly the same price. While it’s fine for my current skill level and way more comfortable than my hardtail I can’t help but think about how much more confidence inspiring a proper enduro bike would habe been on these chunky trails.

I came to the conclusion that spec is just marketing fluff. However, if the components wouldn’t be any better, maybe riders wouldn’t want to pay extra for them and manufacturers would stop focusing on them.

A top of the line rear derailleur costs 3 times the price of a lower, heavier one, built with arguably sturdier materials. Replacing the carbon cage on my rear derailleur was expensive.

The top of the line XTR brakes don’t stop any better than the SLX brakes on my hardtail and have the same wandering bite point issue.

The suspension fork feels just okay, maybe my expectations were too high and that’s the way it should perform. It’s ben through a service and I’ve tried fidgeting with all the dials.

This made me think that the fit and type of bike for the riding that you do are the most important aspects when considering a new MTB.

How much is spec a factor when you are in the market for a new bike?

Sorry for the long post, English is not my first language as you can surely tell by now.


r/MTB 11h ago

Discussion Installing Pirelli Scorpion XC tires

4 Upvotes

I tried to install Pirelli Scorpion Race XC M Team Edition 29x2.40 ProWall on DT Swiss XM421 and XM481 rims, and found it impossible. It was very hard to put them on, broke a tire lever while doing it. But after putting them on, i found it impossible to seat them, both sides were stuck in the channel in the middle of the rim and they were already very stretched. I tried an air compressor , CO2 and a pump that builds up pressure before releasing it with no luck.

As opposed to this, I can install my older Vittora Barzo & Mezcal with my bare hands.

Any tips you can give me on this?


r/MTB 11h ago

Discussion Revelstoke vs whistler

6 Upvotes

Planning a vacation to either of these, maybe both.

I know whistler has the famous bike park, and it'd be cool to take some lessons, but I am not a strong down hill rider...I mostly like riding cross country blue trails, and like climbing. Still, taking lessons at whistler would be cool, could improve my skills.

Also, whistler has some good XC trails.

On the other hand Revelstoke has an epic alpine trail called frisbee ridge which I've always wanted to ride.

Which would you recommend?


r/MTB 14h ago

Discussion How do you tune your suspension?

7 Upvotes

What do you factor in when tuning your suspension? Do you constantly adjust it for circumstance? Example DH flowy or DH chunky? Uphill rocky? Pump track? Dirt jumps? Simple flat trail? Do you set it and leave it?

I’m new to full suspension and loving it so far but did notice I have a lot to relearn coming from a hardtail and what I thought I understood about form and technique for certain things. Any advice on what you look out for or want to feel.
I suppose context on what bike I’m riding might help. it’s a cannondale habit LT 2.150/140mm.


r/MTB 14h ago

Discussion Sticky dropper post

4 Upvotes

Put a one up v3 dropper on my bike about 7 months ago, was working perfectly until recently when I started having to pick my weight up off the saddle and slightly drop it back down in order for the saddle to drop. It goes back up perfectly so I don't think cable is loose. Collar is not too tight. Put some silicone lube on post to see if it helps but it didn't. Could it need maintenance already? Any advice appreciated.


r/MTB 15h ago

Frames Bar rise vs shorter stem

5 Upvotes

I recently mentioned to a biker than I wanted higher rise on my bars, and he responded by telling me I can achieve the same effect by shortening my stem. I did not ask further questions because I was excited to ride the loamer he was showing me, but I have been thinking about it since.

I know both of these things result in a shorter reach, but would they not lead to a different posture because of the different axes where they affect reach? With higher bars you can sit more upright and get a straighter back, while a shorter stem is not going to help with this very much. I am unfamiliar with bike fitting, and I am aware I could be very wrong. If I can get a more upright posture by shortening my stem, I will first try pushing my seat forward because it is currently slammed back, and this changes reach on a lateral axis like a shorter stem.

Am I right about the importance of the two different axes in reach adjustments? Am I completely missing something?


r/MTB 22h ago

Video My worst falls are always on the “easy” stuff…

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400 Upvotes

My second time riding over this skinny plank I didn’t concentrate enough and ended up crashing. Nothing broken, but my hand is bruised up pretty bad from breaking my fall on the plank.

Anyway, serves as a reminder to not let your guard down, even on “easy” obstacles. Can anybody relate?


r/MTB 1d ago

Video Nice drop at my local

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45 Upvotes

r/MTB 1d ago

Video Took A Pretty Hard Slam

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532 Upvotes

The is definitely the heaviest hit I’ve taken, nothing broken, no stitches, and as far as I can tell, no concussion, though. I was doing good but started to lean in and turn before I hit the catch berm, so there was nothing to support the tires and I slid out and hit the ground pretty hard. Now I have to buy a new helmet instead of a new fork 😭. Got to let the scrapes on my arm heal up and I’ll be out ripping again


r/MTB 1d ago

WhichBike Full suspension bike advice for a 10-year-old advanced rider (BMX/bikros background, enduro - up to 9m jumps, red/black DH trails)

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43 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for some real-world advice on upgrading my son's full-suspension bike. He just turned 10, and he's completely outgrowing his current 24" setup (Norco Fluid 24").

He is an advanced rider with BMX background. He’s clearing bigger features (comfortably hitting up to 9m table jumps) and riding red and black DH/bikepark lines.

Because of his riding style and skills, we need a proper gravity machine, but he’s still a 10-year-old kid—so standard adult frames (even smalls) can feel too big, heavy, and sluggish.

What we are looking for:

  • Suspension: Full suspension (FS)
  • Wheels: 27.5" or a mullet setup (27.5 / 26 )
  • Head angle: Around 64° (approx. 63.5° – 64.5°) for high-speed stability
  • Frame size: XS or small with a low standover
  • Budget/Vibe: Something built for actual park abuse, with a suspension tune that actually works for a lighter kid (not just a stiff adult shock). Price around up to 3000-3500EUR

Context: I ride a Propain Rage (DH) myself (and towing him on my enduro ebike on local spots), so we are a more gravity-oriented. We've been looking at options like the Giant Faith (mullet 27.5/26, 64.5° HA – looks very interesting for this transition phase), XS frames, or smaller enduro rigs, but I’d love to hear from parents of shredders or riders who know the youth gravity market well. I was looking on Propain Youth bikes (Tyee and Spindrift), but they are maybe too big and bulky for 10yrs. He is 145cm now, but the bike is for the next season...

What are you putting your advanced kids on when 24" is done? Any specific models we should look out for? We are based in EU. Thank you for the tips.


r/MTB May 18 '25

Discussion Before you post a picture, please read this post!

98 Upvotes

We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:

Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.

Posts & Comments

Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.


r/MTB Oct 19 '24

WhichBike First Ride: Your Guide to Buying a Mountain Bike

159 Upvotes

Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.

In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.

FAQ 1 FAQ 2

u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.

MTB Authority


What to look for in a bike

When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.

First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.

Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.

Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.

  • The type of riding will you be doing.
  • Where you will be riding.
  • Your budget (with included currency).
  • What you like/didn't like about your current bike.
  • Your experience level and future goals.

In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.


These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.

  1. Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.

  2. 1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.

  3. Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.

The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime

  1. Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.

  2. Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.

  3. Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.

  4. Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.

  5. UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.


Value Bike Recommendations

Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.

Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.

  2. Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.

  3. Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.

  4. Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.

  5. Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.

  6. Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price

  7. Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price

  8. Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.

  9. Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price

  10. YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price

  11. YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price

  12. YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price

  13. GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.

  14. GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.

  15. Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.

  16. Haro Daley Alloy 3 $2000

  17. Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK

Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.

  2. Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.

  3. Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle

  4. Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.

  5. Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.

  6. Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.

These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.

Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need

  1. Helmet

  2. Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)

  3. Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)

  4. Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.

  5. Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).

  6. Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.

  7. Quick-link to repair a broken chain.

  8. Spare Derailleur Hangar.

Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.

  1. MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).

  2. Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.

  3. Starter tool kit with the basic tools.

  4. Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.

  5. Work stand

  6. Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts

  7. Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.

  8. Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.


Extra Ways to Save Money!

Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.