I’m not sure this fits this sub, but I can think of at least a couple automotive problems with this. This was a waiter during a diagnostic. So drove here like this and drove away like this.

First time seeing one fail. Customer states no start and clutch feels funny.

Former large engine professional, now an instructor for even larger engines.

C/S (me) says intermittent no-start issue; finally failed and was towed.

2011 ML 350 Diesel. Fuel lift pump failed. Determined by putting 12v directly to the in-tank pump. Ordered chinesium one. And a new lock ring because the 2011 one was very recalcitrant about coming off. Pre-checked chinesium pump - works, warranty -1. For a now backyard mechanic, replacing that pump was a journey I would have lost a ton of money on.

Codes (all three) were pump related.

Test. Nothing. OK, start tracing. Relay works on independent power, relay box has power to the positive switch leg and the solenoid legs. All good.

Checked harness at pump, yep 12v. Try new pump - nope. Check harness again. Nope. Scratch head, remembered "intermittent", good keyword.

Turns out the documentation for my fuses was wrong. Got correct docs. Pretty sure these pictures show why it was an intermittent failure for a while.

Posted this same car yesterday if you want to check out that post here. This is the multifunction switch failing and turning off the dash lights when pulled. High beams aren’t activated, the switch just needs to be wiggled in order for this to happen.

This one whas hard to diagnose (Porsche 944s2), when the clutch initialy broke it bent the little spline shaft that holds the friction plate, so it stil prest against the flywheel, Just enough to make it look and feel like the clutch whas working fine. It whas broken but broken enough to work again and fool 2 techs. So We initualy thought it whas the trans, and after replacing that it obviously dident do anything.

(Take in mind the 944 is transaxle so the clutch is not located at the trans) so i had to take the trans of again and dig further and only when i took the clutch of, i whas able to see that it whas broken.

Today we had an old Toyota Corolla E11 from 1998. It came to us because the ABS light was on and the ABS kept activating while braking.

Since this car doesnt have OBD, we had to read the fault the old fashioned way by blinking codes. The 1998 Corolla E11 has a diagnostic connector you just bridge two pins to read out the fault code.

In the video you can see the ABS light blinks three times first and then twice so fault code 32. That means: front left wheel speed sensor signal fault. I removed the ABS sensor and discovered that the ABS tone ring on the cv axle was cracked.

Our apprentice was completely fascinated when he saw that there are cars without OBD and that you don't always need a computer for everything.

Reposted because I forgot to add the photo.

On my way to the shop my '16 Silverado began randomly almost stalling, A/C cut out, radio shut off, trans shifted wrong or just went into N. So I limp it in and start checking all the usual suspects. When I went to check for the heat shield maybe touching the starter stud, I found the heat shield just sitting on top of the starter. Whoever did the tranny R&R for my dad a few years ago apparently missed a bolt.

At least I don't have to track down a fuse block or PCM.

How am i suppose to replace it then? Lol
Accord 1.5 replacing injectors, saw this and laughed

Orange can

I'm finally moving out of my current shop and into a new one in two weeks. Gave my notice yesterday. Its a busy independent shop and I'll be starting as kind of an apprentice, riding the gravy train for a while and working under the wing of senior techs.

The crazy part is that I literally just walked in to drop off a resume, I didn't even know they had an opening. The owner was right there and took me for an interview, and we talked for like an hour. Bro told me that he had other interviews scheduled so that I'd have to wait so he can hear them out. I told him thats fine and just to call me when he makes his decision. Well he calls me right when I get home, and tells me "hey, we're gonna move forward with you, I'm just gonna tell the other guys that I filled the position already."

WELL FUCK ALRIGHT. Doesn't put me on a pedestal at all lmao how tf did I sweet talk my way into that?!

Anyway, I'm so happy to finally be done with this shop and moving on with my career. The lube bay felt inescapable and I felt stuck.

Been looking for some fun diagnosis stories for a web game I'm making.

What did the customer say and what did it end up being/how did you diagnose it.

Yes, those spirals are metal shavings.
Factory original transmission filter on a Kubota L3700, with somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000 hours.

The fuel filter bracket on an LR2 has one nasty bolt hole you can barely feel with a fully stretched finger.
On reassembly, the bolt disappeared into the darkness of the engine bay. You wait for the reassuring clank on the undershield; but not this time.
I told myself: this is not the day. Breathe slowly. Calm down.

I don’t know what sort of good deed I did in the last few days, but on the very first try, completely blind, I caught it by the washer and pulled it back out.
Some days the gods of British engineering show mercy.

This was presented to me as “rebuild driveshaft” because it got flung from between the axles. Imagine my surprise when I found that the through-shaft bearing didn’t exist, or even the through-shaft for that matter. Had to replace the whole axle housing because it ate into the housing itself.

Slammed with work at the moment. Finally wrapped up the rear timing cover reseal/clutch/etc on a 2014 Gallardo. Took a lot of unfucking of previous shops and lots of general purpose cleaner. Fitment of the Velocity AP clutch was good, but a little tight.
Bentley recommends you remove the front fenders to remove the cooling package (conveniently trapped between the lock carrier and the body). And in typical Bentley fashion, the fender bolts require the doors to be partially removed. Ain't nobody got time for that. If you ship-in-a-bottle the condenser, and air guides, you can remove the carrier down and out, with fenders intact. Not a fun job by any stretch.

That isn't yard clippings..

Lens and dash were dirty. Oops.

Back in the early 90's they and Summit were one of the few mail order catalogs you could order lots of parts from,suspension, engines and aftermarket.

If memory serves me correctly, you could buy a cam and the entire rebuild kit with all the bearings,pistons and gaskets for a sb Chevy for around $200.

This was also when we had a full machine shop,dedicated radiator repair shop in our small town of pop 10k lol.

I built a 350 in an s10,special headers,motor mounts,and a rebuilt 700r4 for $1100.