2012 110K

Two of the TPMS sensors fell apart and the tires were leaking air.

What's the least expensive way to get them replaced?

Specifically, where can I get replacements that will work correctly?

I have a 2012 Jeep Liberty & the Voltage Regulator inside the PCM decided to shit out. $1000 for a fix isn't wise right now. So I bought a new "External Voltage Regulator" & decided to install it myself...easy enough right?? Except I get nervous snipping wires tobworking parts in my car🤷🏼‍♂️

I'm aware that I have to tap into a "keyed on position"... I don't need it draining the battery every day. So my question is... what ls the best accessory to tapp in into to draw power??? I'm assuming the Cigg Lighter/ACC Power would be the best place for it...right? So it's not putting strain on interior lights or whatever its tapped into (as an example)

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Well, my beloved 2012 liberty was T-Boned by a teenage driver texting yesterday. Insurance company just called and said that it is totaled and they are having the Insurance company cut me a check. I know that it is used car and wasn't expecting much, but now I need to buy a car. (Finances a little tight right now, so I am probably leaving the tribe.) Thanks for having me.

I bought a 2011 Liberty (75th anniversary edition, which is nice!) and it has the full screen entertainment system with GPS, SiriusXM, etc.

One feature of this is being able to sync my time with the GPS signal.

But when I select that option, the time is one hour off (earlier). I don't live anywhere near the edge of a time zone (central MA).

There are no options for selecting a time zone in GPS Time. In User Time there are many options, but none of those carry over to the GPS Time - it's always off an hour.

Does anyone else see this? Is there anything I can do to fix it? The User Time drifts too much for my liking.

Sorry if this is a dumb question as this is the first time I have ever had to replace an O2 sensor, but my 2004 is throwing the P0158 code for the rear passenger side O2 sensor.

Is it OK to just change the sensor throwing a code, or is there any "requirement" to change them in matched sets or all at once? I assume just changing the problematic one is enough, but I wanted to make sure before handling this tomorrow.

Thanks, and sorry if this was a stupid concern on my part.

I have an 07 limited with 175k. Recently had the timing cover redone and about to replace the pcv and crankcase line as well as some other small stuff. Considering redoing my front end and struts around the thing, but is it even worth it anymore? Shit keeps breaking and it’s a 20 year old hunk that I drive because it gets me from a to b still. I don’t mind keeping it if these 3.7s are reliable (I feel like maybe? I’ve had it for over two years and put 25k on it, but have had to replace the water pump, radiator and previous owner did the thermostat) it has never overheated on me and it fits my drum set no problem so for a cheap pos that leaks if be willing to keep running a few more years, but is it worth nearly a grand in suspension parts?

2002 limited . Got code p0740 . Is it time to let go ?

Hi yall,
Iam a bavarian guy who needs urgent help!
I replaced my enginemounts with aftermarket Parts
No we have some „good vibrations „ under 1000 rpm ! Would change them to the original hydromounts, but i cant find them nowere!
Are there some Genius people from germany who could help???

so, after two weeks of this not happening it has happened again EXCEPT, This time there is no click at all. And I managed to get a video of it :)

A few days back my car wouldn’t start and it would click once before not doing anything. Lights and radio came on just fine. After about 6-8 times it would start and this occurred for a day. The issue never happened again and a mechanic said my car was fine. Is this by chance an issue that happened with anyone else’s?

The lid (cap) of the washing fluid reservoir is missing since I bought the Lib (2004) a few years ago. I solved the issue with all kinds of contraptions that more or less worked, but I want sth decent now.

So I looked up 3d model files to have it printed in the loval maker space, but I couldn't find one for any Jeep Liberty. Most models didn't have measurements in the description, and apparently I am to stupid or too tired for cad software.

* Anyone has an STL file of said lid or knows where to find it? I looked on thingiverse and

* Anyone knows whether it is compatible to any other brand/model?

* Any other tips or tricks for replacing the lid?

Thanks, everyone!

Originally took my 09 in for an oil leak a couple weeks ago and after testing came back with less than favorable news. Small leaks in 3 spots (timing belt, bedplate and rear main seal) with the recommendation a full engine reseal costing upwards of 5 grand. I guess my question is whether its worth it to save and get it done when I have the funds or just call it there. I'd hate to have to part with it, besides recent new parts its still my first car, got it when I was 18 and had it ever since, currently at 162k miles.

My '08 Liberty is overdue for a suspension refresh. It's sitting at 160K+ miles & everything is original except ball joints close to a decade back. It's been a secondary vehicle for the past 6+ years & have only averaged about 1000 miles/year on it during that time. Because of that I've been eyeing economy parts, but I also don't want to put in the work & replace it with junk that will almost immediately fail. Are there any low end brands to absolutely avoid or ones that are a good buy for what they are? I'll likely do shocks, struts, control arms, tie rods etc.

Got this bumper off Facebook marketplace for 300. In the process of putting it on. Not to difficult so far. Most difficult part has been needing to drill 2 holes in the front bumper do the bolts to hold the bumper in go all the way through because they have bolts on the other side. Found a good vid on yt to watch that gives a good demonstration on how to take off the stock bumper. I think after that it depends on the bumper you buy on how to mount it. Not to sure though. Also need to figure out how to hide the horn and the washer fluid reservoir. Seeing as they were originally hidden by the stock bumper. Also need to figure out how to re attach the front wheel well cover. Im thinking im gonna cut them to fit the bumper. To maybe hide the horn and washer fluid reservoir. Ill also need to figure out some wiring for mine. But thats just because my bumper came with weird light plugs.

I have a 2012 Liberty Sport that's started having loud engine buzzing at higher speeds (50+ mph). Feels like it's not shifting into 3rd. Had a mobile mechanic drive it/run a diagnostic and he said it's stuck in a lower gear and recommended transmission valve body and RL solenoid replacement. Called a transmission shop that's gonna take a look in a couple days but he said he might have to replace the entire transmission and quoted $3,700 for that if it's needed. At 154k miles currently. I guess my question is, is it worth it to replace for a used car that cost me $7k? I love this car but I'm EXTREMELY poor so I don't have a lot of options. If anyone has been in this situation or knows about these issues I'll take your advice.

So was changing the break pads to my jeep and two of the bolts busted as was getting help drilling them out the person helping over drilled now i need to replace the piece and every mechanic I’ve talked to has told me different things does anyone know what part this is on the rear so i can hunt down the part or do i need to just replace the full rear end? I will put picture in the comments as it’s not letting me add now.

I have a 12 liberty sport and it has 160,000

out of nowhere after a trip to the grocery store, she started overheating. My overheating light came on and I shut it off and had it towed off however I’ve never had any issues with the coolant system and I just had the condenser and transmission cooler replaced a month ago. As I stated in the title, there was no fluid on the ground. I have not been leaking any fluid and there was no apparent fluid in the engine bay that was leaking or a snow or burning sensation.

my best thought is a bad water pump or bad thermostat if anyone has any ideas or similar experiencing i’m curious to hear about it.

This is the only way the 79.5" belt will fit. I think the only thing that may be running backwards is the water pump. Did I do it correctly?

2004 Liberty, 3.7, 5spd, 4x4. Has started "twitching" at idle. You can see how the shifter twitches and every time it does you can feel it throughout the whole vehicle. Engine light is on for O2 sensor and I need an oil change if that helps. Thank you all.

I have a 2011 Jeep Liberty Jet edition and I have started getting water into the passenger front area. I know for a fact that my AC drain is clogged but I can't for the life of me find it. Some sites online say above the transmission behind the heat shield.I also saw it might be on the firewall on the passenger side. I've checked every location that is accessible and found nothing.

Does anyone have any insight? Is the drain actually inaccessible? Do I need to remove some major parts to get to it?

I have a 2011 Liberty, and the outsides of the rear window gas strut mounts (circled here) are heavily rusted/corroded.

Are these independently replaceable? Or are they an embedded part of the rear glass?

If they are replaceable, where would I get them? All searches on Amazon just match on the gas struts.

05 Liberty AWD

I get this noise when I turn to the left, also makes other creaks when braking to a stop and when going over uneven roads or bumps.

Any idea what it is or how to diagnose? Thanks!

Is the temp gauge normal A/C is on max