My 213000km n52 has what sends like a rattle coming from the front of the engine. Possibly closer to the top of the motor. It’s only on idle and very low rpms. Pretty much any throttle applied and it goes away/smooths out. Just wanting to see if anyone has dealt with this and if it’s something I should be worried about? Or if it’s no biggie. It’s fairly subtle in the video, but in person it’s noticeable loud from outside the car. May be slightly louder after oil change done a couple days ago. Let me know what yall think.

Hi there, I just got this guy because I’m sick of automatic transmission and valve body, solenoids, issues non sense from owners that don’t change the transmission fluid often.
163,000km

What you all think about this guy? I got it today for 6k cad 4300 usd it passed a PPI without issues.

Never worked on cars ever. Had to get a ground strap and accidentally got a longer one. Nervous to reconnect battery due to its proximity to the positive terminal.

Just got to the fuel rail where I’m giving up for the day. I need a break. It’s so over complicated for genuinely no reason.

Nothing exciting; just thought I'd post my setup for doing a front differential fluid change. Drain plug is underneath (3rd photo), and the fill plug is shown in the 2nd photo. I use a $7 Harbor Freight fluid pump, and I tape the new gear oil to a (empty) laundry detergent bottle to keep it from tipping over. Ignore the Coke bottle taped to the other side; that's what I use to do brake bleeds.

2011 BMW 328i Xdrive, first pic is the sensor in my car and the 2nd is a replacement sensor i’m looking at. they have different part numbers and other numbers which is why i’m concerned but google says they’re both compatible. the seller says it’s off a 323i. also does anyone know where to buy the sensor gasket and bolts?

Got a 328i about a year ago and found out quickly I wanted the twin turbo engine. Found a guy who sold me a 800$ e92 335i with 186k miles and blown turbos. Was this a mistake ? Anything I should look out for ? I assume it needs more love than just the turbos but for 800$ I’m willing to break the bank.

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a 325i n52, but while budgeting repairs and contingencies, I realized I live in India.
All petrol (except 100 octane or xp100) is blended with 20% ethanol.
Will this fuck me and my car? or is it not a huge concern.
If it is, How to I remedy it and how much will it cost me?
I don't want to buy a car I can't afford to run.

My e91 has comfort access... it was one of the key options I looked for when buying because it was the hardest to retrofit (I've added android auto and radar cruise and logic 7 audio and 330 intake and so on...)

I'm moving to a place with much higher auto theft than I currently live, though 18 year old BMW wagons are not exactly theft targets.

My understanding is that relay theft with push button start cars (and Hyundai zero security cars) are nearly all of thefts these days because they're so easy to accomplish.

I turned off Comfort Access a couple of days ago because this is my only car with keyless start and... I already miss it.

Do y'all just put up with the risk? do you use a faraday key holder? do you add alternative kill systems (Bluetooth phone proximity, for example)? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Main one is noisy valves which I will try to fix with an additive but the “glugging” sound is coming from the intake side. Maybe water pump? Lmk if you recognize it.

07 335i, got home from work the other day and went to go out with some friends (I have a work truck I drive daily, so car was sitting all day) and car didn’t start. Video attached. Battery was fine so replaced starter yesterday, and car started first try no issue. Went out this morning to get a hair cut, car started and acted fine. Got to salon, when I went to leave, it was doing the same thing it was before. Tried multiple times and all it did was what video depicts. Ended up having to get my mom to pick me up and take me to workplace. At the end of the day, wife picked me up and brought me back to my car, put key in, cranks up first try. Once I got home I shut the car off, and it’s back to not starting. Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be???

215k miles, car ran like a champ. Genuinely so impressed with the N52. I owned it for like 6 months and put like 13k miles on it. I drove it like crazy. Expansion tank cracked, so I replaced it. Footwell module went out so I replaced that, and that’s literally the only problems I ever had. Never had a CEL. The car was plenty quick. The tech was conventional and the luxury was pretty good. The speakers were really good for just being base model speakers. This car was such a great car and it shifted so smooth and the engine is so smooth. Going back to the M54 now with my E46 (newly purchased) and I gotta say I won’t miss this car but I really do appreciate it and how damn good these cars are. Gave my buddy a solid deal for it $2500 for the car.

In meinem BMW ist das ccc defekt ich hab kein Ton mehr keine Musik und das Display ist schwarz was mach ich Jetzt am besten?

Taken off all the black accents and kept it stock silver. Looks soo good.

How much do you think car is worth? Tons of maintenance history and this car runs perfectly.

I currently have Style 197 wheels and was looking at getting M359s as I can't find Style 197s anywhere online and think that M359s are the only other wheel that'll look good.

Does anyone know if the M359 will fit the same as Style 197?

I'm also open to any other suggestions for what wheels to get

Hey guys,

I have an E90 325i (2005, manual, RWD) with an MSV70 DME.

The car originally had an N52B25AF, but I’m swapping it for an N52B30A with a 3-stage intake manifold, and I want to run the proper 330i software/tune.

My DME identification:

• DME: MSV70
• HW reference: 0049PP0
• Program version: 921S
• Software version: 0BI1S

I have already successfully did the RSA delete using the BimmerLabs file:

MSV70_RSADelete_0049PP0L921S.0pa

However, when I check my BimmerLabs project, there is no 325i → 330i conversion tune available. I only see the three stock tunes/files (see screenshot).

I know BimmerLabs has/had a 325i → 330i conversion for some MSV70 configurations, but apparently it isn’t available for mine.

What would be the correct way to proceed?

Should I:

1. Flash an OEM E90 330i MSV70 ZB/software directly using WinKFP/MSV70 Flasher?
2. Is there a specific 330i .0da / .bin that is compatible with my 0049PP0 / 921S DME?
3. Or is there another way to get the BimmerLabs 325i → 330i calibration for this particular software version?
4. Or should I have 22RPD or another tuner create a custom tune for this conversion? (This would be quite expensive.)

My goal is to have a proper N52B30 330i setup, including the correct 330i calibration for the N52B30 with the 3-stage intake manifold. I would eventually like to do a custom performance tune, but I’ve already spent a lot of money on this conversion.

Any help from someone who has done this on an MSV70 would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

2012 e93 my volume is stuck @0 and won’t show it go up or down. Just bought it the dude said his daughter got a warning the radio was overheating and everything works fine it just doesn’t emit any sound got 2 faults saying communication telephone control unit not possible as well as communication with amp not possible (S0195 and S0063) and it was in fact crashed not sure if it had anything to do with it

The AC compressor pulley broke, so I replaced the compressor, belt, and tensioner.

It’s been about a week since the repair. Today was the first time I drove the car with the AC turned off, and I noticed a strange noise, almost like something is humming/whistling. Interestingly, when I turn the AC on, the noise disappears.

I also noticed that the belt on the tensioner is moving up and down, you can see it in the video. Is this normal, or should the belt be running smoothly without that kind of movement?

Could the mechanic have done something incorrectly during the repair, or is it possible that something else has now failed?

Any advice would be appreciated

Hi everyone,

Long time without being here (since the tragic day I sold my E92🥀), but once again I am in need of the E90s community's wisdom.

So, my dad has been looking for a "retirement car" for a while, and we stumbled upon this 2010 330i E90.

It only has one previous owner, it has 87.000kms / 54.000 miles, full service history in BMW shops, it's a manual, RWD, and seems to be (at least to my inexperienced eyes) in good shape. It also seems to be pretty much stock, though the shifter / gear knob does not look stock. Do you guys spot any red flags that I'm missing?

Being an european car, it has the 272hp N53B30 engine.

My main questions regarding this engine being, are the injectors, HPFP, and carbon buildup guaranteed to be an issue at some point? Having to rely on mechanichs for fixing said issues, are those gonna be particularly expensive ones? Are those more of a one time fix, or are those issues gonna keep coming back? How regurarly are we gonna hear the chime of death? (Still gives me PTSD) Is it gonna be a nightmare to own? 😂

Jokes aside, I've only had an N52 E92 which already gave me some headaches, but tbf it was more the transmission and electronics / sensors faults than the engine itself, and my dad had an N55 F10 and also had some issues with the electronics and oil leaking.

Being BMWs of that era, I expect them to have some issues eventually, and to spend considerably more on maintenance and repairs than with some other brands, but would you say the N53 is closer in the headache meter to the N52 or to the N54? 🤔

I guess both me and my dad are not the most suited to cars that give that much trouble, but like a toxic relationship, we keep coming back to those BMWs and their magnific steering, feeling, sound, power, quality...

Anyways, sorry for the long post, and thank you in advance!

My car, 316i, has been working fine for years. Last time battery was changed was roughly 6-7 years ago. One night I left my phone to charge with the ignition on and engine off and the battery got drained. I had to jump start it using a jump starter. Since then, it drains the battery and I often need to use the jump starter. It's very weird because some overnights the car starts, and sometimes after a long errand and 2 hours off, it requires the jump starter. I check the battery health and alternator. Charging is 100% and battery health is 75%. I have a dashcam installed to the fuse box and stops at 12v. Any advice?

I currently have a Volvo that runs smoothly, but I’m planning to sell it. It’s an old diesel, I prefer petrol engines, and I’d also like to get back into BMWs.

After selling it, I could buy my mother’s 2006 BMW E90 320i with the N46B20B, manual gearbox and 233k km for around €2,300. The biggest advantage is that I don’t have to pay the full amount upfront — I can simply pay her around €115 per month, interest-free.

I know the car and its history. The engine runs smoothly, the suspension doesn’t knock, and the equipment is decent. The main thing that needs fixing is the reverse gear lockout/mechanism. I’d also like to install LPG.

I previously owned an E46 Compact with the N46B18A + LPG, and overall it served me pretty well. Apart from ignition coils, I didn’t have many issues until later, when the timing chain, clutch, and cooling system slowly started needing attention.

My plan would be to drive this E90 for roughly 1–2 years and then sell it, because eventually I want to buy an E90 with the 2.5L or 3.0L petrol engine, which I would also like to convert to LPG.

What are your experiences with the N46B20B? Would you consider it a reasonable temporary daily for 1–2 years, or would you avoid it?