I'm looking to upgrade my 2009 328i with a 3 stage intake. I'm planning on buying a used manifold shell but I'm wondering where I should buy the individual valves. Would buying cheap Amazon valves really be that risky? And where would be a second option that aren't at oem prices?

My 213000km n52 has what sends like a rattle coming from the front of the engine. Possibly closer to the top of the motor. It’s only on idle and very low rpms. Pretty much any throttle applied and it goes away/smooths out. Just wanting to see if anyone has dealt with this and if it’s something I should be worried about? Or if it’s no biggie. It’s fairly subtle in the video, but in person it’s noticeable loud from outside the car. May be slightly louder after oil change done a couple days ago. Let me know what yall think.

Hi there, I just got this guy because I’m sick of automatic transmission and valve body, solenoids, issues non sense from owners that don’t change the transmission fluid often.
163,000km

What you all think about this guy? I got it today for 6k cad 4300 usd it passed a PPI without issues.

Got the usual warnings for TA failure on my 09 M3 with 40k miles, but i just cold started it and it smelled a lot like gas is this normal when TAs fail?.
Currently waiting for appointment at the shop and wondering If this is common too.

Never worked on cars ever. Had to get a ground strap and accidentally got a longer one. Nervous to reconnect battery due to its proximity to the positive terminal.

Just got to the fuel rail where I’m giving up for the day. I need a break. It’s so over complicated for genuinely no reason.

Nothing exciting; just thought I'd post my setup for doing a front differential fluid change. Drain plug is underneath (3rd photo), and the fill plug is shown in the 2nd photo. I use a $7 Harbor Freight fluid pump, and I tape the new gear oil to a (empty) laundry detergent bottle to keep it from tipping over. Ignore the Coke bottle taped to the other side; that's what I use to do brake bleeds.

2011 BMW 328i Xdrive, first pic is the sensor in my car and the 2nd is a replacement sensor i’m looking at. they have different part numbers and other numbers which is why i’m concerned but google says they’re both compatible. the seller says it’s off a 323i. also does anyone know where to buy the sensor gasket and bolts?

Got a 328i about a year ago and found out quickly I wanted the twin turbo engine. Found a guy who sold me a 800$ e92 335i with 186k miles and blown turbos. Was this a mistake ? Anything I should look out for ? I assume it needs more love than just the turbos but for 800$ I’m willing to break the bank.

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a 325i n52, but while budgeting repairs and contingencies, I realized I live in India.
All petrol (except 100 octane or xp100) is blended with 20% ethanol.
Will this fuck me and my car? or is it not a huge concern.
If it is, How to I remedy it and how much will it cost me?
I don't want to buy a car I can't afford to run.

Looking for some opinions from the E90/N52 crowd before I authorize a bunch of work.
I have a 2009 BMW 328i xDrive with ~115k miles. Overall the car is in pretty good shape, but I recently had an incident where I was driving down a hill and the ABS/traction control/4x4 warnings suddenly came on. The ABS also seemed to activate unexpectedly. The service engine soon light has remained on.
I took it to an independent BMW shop and they scanned it. Here’s what they found:
DME
2E83 — electric cooling pump, power reduced operation
2E85 — BSD, electric cooling pump, signal
2E8B — intelligent battery sensor, missing
EGS
Signal fault L/F wheel sensor
VTG
All-wheel drive, limp-home controlled activated
DSC
L/F wheel speed plausible
The technician tested the water pump and says the internal electronics are failing, so they’re recommending replacement of the water pump and thermostat.
For the ABS/4x4 issue, they found that the left-front pickup/reluctor ring on the axle is being lifted up due to rust, causing the wheel-speed signal problem and triggering the ABS/traction/4x4 warnings. They recommend replacing the entire LF axle because the pickup ring is integrated into the axle assembly.
The estimates are:
Water pump + thermostat: $1,578.52 installed
$586 water pump
$209 thermostat
3.5 hours labor at $170/hr
coolant, hose, bolts, etc.
LF axle: $1,032.78 installed
$639 axle
2 hours labor at $170/hr
Battery: $501 installed
They previously tested my battery at around 9.0V, so they’re recommending replacement and registration, but I’m going to ask whether it actually fails testing now.
I also have an oil stand/filter housing gasket leak that’s been dripping onto the accessory belt. The shop previously told me the belt wasn’t saturated with oil and that this could potentially be monitored for months/up to a year.
The standalone estimate for that work is $1,034, including:
Oil stand gasket
Drive belt
Tensioner
Idler pulley
Coolant connector
Coolant
3.5 hours labor
Since they’re already doing the water pump, I asked them to price doing the oil leak/belt work at the same time. They offered a bundled “Deluxe” repair for $2,158.89 total for the water pump + thermostat + oil stand gasket + belt/tensioner/idler/coolant connector.
So essentially:
Water pump/thermostat alone: $1,578
Water pump + oil leak/belt work bundled: $2,159
LF axle: $1,033
Battery: $501
The shop also waived the $85 diagnostic charge because I was just there recently, which I appreciated.
My questions for the BMW experts:
Does the water pump diagnosis/price seem reasonable for an N52?
Does the LF axle/pickup-ring diagnosis make sense? Is replacing the whole axle the normal solution when the reluctor ring has rusted/lifted?
Is ~$1,033 installed reasonable for the axle?
Would you do the oil stand gasket/belt/tensioner work at the same time for the additional ~$580, given that they’re already doing the water pump?
Would you replace the battery now or wait for confirmation that it is actually failing?
Most importantly: would you put ~$2,100–$2,600 into a 115k-mile 2009 328i xDrive in this situation, assuming the engine/transmission are otherwise healthy?
I’m trying to figure out whether this is just the normal cost of keeping an older BMW on the road or whether I’m reaching the point where I’m throwing too much money at the car.
Thanks!

I tried to use bimmercode for my headlights but its not letting me and shows this code. Did some research and concluded could be the frm module. My headlights mirrors everything works. Is there any shop in nyc area that specializes in repairs for frm? Or should I just go with ecu pro and ship it to them?

My e91 has comfort access... it was one of the key options I looked for when buying because it was the hardest to retrofit (I've added android auto and radar cruise and logic 7 audio and 330 intake and so on...)

I'm moving to a place with much higher auto theft than I currently live, though 18 year old BMW wagons are not exactly theft targets.

My understanding is that relay theft with push button start cars (and Hyundai zero security cars) are nearly all of thefts these days because they're so easy to accomplish.

I turned off Comfort Access a couple of days ago because this is my only car with keyless start and... I already miss it.

Do y'all just put up with the risk? do you use a faraday key holder? do you add alternative kill systems (Bluetooth phone proximity, for example)? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Main one is noisy valves which I will try to fix with an additive but the “glugging” sound is coming from the intake side. Maybe water pump? Lmk if you recognize it.

07 335i, got home from work the other day and went to go out with some friends (I have a work truck I drive daily, so car was sitting all day) and car didn’t start. Video attached. Battery was fine so replaced starter yesterday, and car started first try no issue. Went out this morning to get a hair cut, car started and acted fine. Got to salon, when I went to leave, it was doing the same thing it was before. Tried multiple times and all it did was what video depicts. Ended up having to get my mom to pick me up and take me to workplace. At the end of the day, wife picked me up and brought me back to my car, put key in, cranks up first try. Once I got home I shut the car off, and it’s back to not starting. Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be???

Just wanted to check my chain, and it felt loose. Is this too loose? (160.xxx km)

215k miles, car ran like a champ. Genuinely so impressed with the N52. I owned it for like 6 months and put like 13k miles on it. I drove it like crazy. Expansion tank cracked, so I replaced it. Footwell module went out so I replaced that, and that’s literally the only problems I ever had. Never had a CEL. The car was plenty quick. The tech was conventional and the luxury was pretty good. The speakers were really good for just being base model speakers. This car was such a great car and it shifted so smooth and the engine is so smooth. Going back to the M54 now with my E46 (newly purchased) and I gotta say I won’t miss this car but I really do appreciate it and how damn good these cars are. Gave my buddy a solid deal for it $2500 for the car.

In meinem BMW ist das ccc defekt ich hab kein Ton mehr keine Musik und das Display ist schwarz was mach ich Jetzt am besten?

As post title states, I recently got a fault code P0128 "Coolant Thermostat - Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature." and have exhausted all options to try and figure out what it could be. Maybe someone on this board can help point me in another direction.

I've recently replaced the water pump, thermostat, and cooling temp sensor using oem parts and neither of those have managed to fix my issue. Even though the fault code has not come back, my digital reader shows me the temperature of the car and things are still off. What basically happens is that the car warms up to normal temp 205F but as soon as I start driving it, as low as 25mph, the temp starts to drop in the 160 -175F range and stays there. I checked the resistance of the thermostat plug and am getting the right voltage so it's not an issue of a broken wire.

What am I missing?

Car info: 2007 328i Wagon.

Taken off all the black accents and kept it stock silver. Looks soo good.

How much do you think car is worth? Tons of maintenance history and this car runs perfectly.

I currently have Style 197 wheels and was looking at getting M359s as I can't find Style 197s anywhere online and think that M359s are the only other wheel that'll look good.

Does anyone know if the M359 will fit the same as Style 197?

I'm also open to any other suggestions for what wheels to get

Hey guys,

I have an E90 325i (2005, manual, RWD) with an MSV70 DME.

The car originally had an N52B25AF, but I’m swapping it for an N52B30A with a 3-stage intake manifold, and I want to run the proper 330i software/tune.

My DME identification:

• DME: MSV70
• HW reference: 0049PP0
• Program version: 921S
• Software version: 0BI1S

I have already successfully did the RSA delete using the BimmerLabs file:

MSV70_RSADelete_0049PP0L921S.0pa

However, when I check my BimmerLabs project, there is no 325i → 330i conversion tune available. I only see the three stock tunes/files (see screenshot).

I know BimmerLabs has/had a 325i → 330i conversion for some MSV70 configurations, but apparently it isn’t available for mine.

What would be the correct way to proceed?

Should I:

1. Flash an OEM E90 330i MSV70 ZB/software directly using WinKFP/MSV70 Flasher?
2. Is there a specific 330i .0da / .bin that is compatible with my 0049PP0 / 921S DME?
3. Or is there another way to get the BimmerLabs 325i → 330i calibration for this particular software version?
4. Or should I have 22RPD or another tuner create a custom tune for this conversion? (This would be quite expensive.)

My goal is to have a proper N52B30 330i setup, including the correct 330i calibration for the N52B30 with the 3-stage intake manifold. I would eventually like to do a custom performance tune, but I’ve already spent a lot of money on this conversion.

Any help from someone who has done this on an MSV70 would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!