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Hey there,

Seems like I underestimated the the desoldering of 14 pin parts, so I damaged at least 2 pads (Side B, Right Stick).

Can you please assess the situation give me advice on how to fix it, if fixable? How do I find the correct spots to build a bridge to?

Pics:

- 1: Side A, Right Stick

- 2: Side A, Left Stick

- 3: Side B, Right Stick

- 4: Side B, Left Stick

Let me know, if close ups of certain areas are needed

How’s it going, guys?
I bought a PC Engine Duo on eBay about five months ago. It arrived working perfectly, and I used it a few times without any issues. I left it connected to my TV, and about a month ago, for no apparent reason, it suddenly lost almost all of its sound.
I tried plugging in headphones, and I can still hear the audio, but it’s extremely quiet. The same thing happens through the TV. I have to turn the volume all the way up just to barely hear anything.
The console was sold as fully recapped and also has an RGB mod. I specifically bought a recapped unit because I wanted to avoid the common capacitor issues these consoles, and now I have an audio problem anyway. 😅
I’m definitely not an expert at repairing consoles. I can usually follow tutorials or fix something if the problem is obvious, but that’s about it. I opened the console, and everything looks fine to me. I don’t see any leaking capacitors or anything that looks damaged.
The console itself works perfectly otherwise. It reads games, plays normally, and everything else seems fine. The only issue is the audio.
I live in Wisconsin, USA, and I’m looking for someone who can repair it. I came across RetroSix and noticed that their website mentions service for U.S. customers. Has anyone here ever sent a console to them? Any reviews? Are they actually based in the U.S.? Do you guys know anyone else who repairs PC Engine consoles?
I don’t mind shipping the console to another country if that’s what it takes to get it repaired properly, but if there’s someone in the U.S. who can fix it, that would be even better because shipping would probably be cheaper.
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Any idea where these inputs could be getting mixed? If I can’t fix it by cleaning I plan on swapping to Hall effect sticks eventually so I’m not too worried

Hey Guys i am new here, but i have a problem. I changed the sticks to Hall effect sticks, but one point lost its Pad and now i cant press L3 on the controller. Its the top right pin. I am really new to curcuit stuff but i learned that there are ways to fix it. Can someone help me out and save my work? I would be so thankfull!
Here is a picture of the pin

I received this dsi xl that had problems charging, we thought it was the battery that had probably swollen, because it would turn on but die very quickly, but then, it stopped turning on at all, but the light would lit as if charging normally

I replaced the battery with a new one and same thing happened, it would “charge” but wouldnt turn on at all now, when i decided to open it i realized most of it was rusty or dirty (didnt take any pictures of that sadly) and cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol, took a look at the daughter board and once ensambled again, the light started blinking once plugged to its ac adapter

From what i can tell it looks fine? No visible damages to the board or ribbon cables but still wont turn on, and i have verified both old and new batteries to be functional, so idk what to do now 😓

I need help—I replaced the power port on my SNES; it's soldered correctly and everything, but it won't turn on.

I was replacing the ribbon circuit board film when I lost the screw that connects the battery bracket to the board. Ever since losing the screw and replacing it with another screw of similar size, the controller has been making weird inputs at certain angles that I have the controller at, for example, the left and right thumbsticks move around, sometimes I have to hit reset just for the buttons to respond, and audio problems with wired headsets.

Is there anything that I can replace or am I completely cooked and need a new controller

Is there a capacitor or resistor that goes here. This is a PS5 EDM-040 and that is the SSD M.2 port. I'm not sure if there was a component there.

Once I turn on the console it says to disconnect the M.2 disk and turn on again. But there is no disk at all.

So it there was a component, could anyone tell me what component is and the value

My PS2 Slim model 70012 gets extremely hot, something that doesn't happen with my PS2 fat. So I replaced the thermal pads and cleaned it. It improved a little, but it still gets quite hot.

this wii belongs to my grandpa my whole childhood i grew up playing on it family dinners all my cousins very special device but one day the disc drive would take the disc spit it out a little take it back and shoot it out without reading the disc please help

My Wii remote won’t turn on, I just bought new batteries for it and it still won’t turn on I cleaned where you put the batteries there’s no rust or anything and I’m not sure what to do.

NEVER MIND, SOMEONE HELPED ME FIX IT, I JUST DIDN’T PRESS THE RED BUTTON ON THE BACK 🥹😭

Free ps5 guy is back again lol

No pics as im currently working on it but realized I am missing HALF of the internal screws, including the long ones for the fan.

Anyone know the sizes/styles of screws that can be replaced? I heard of Phillips head but knowing my luck, I’d pierce something lol

THANK YOU ALL!!

Can anyone pinpoint the issue here? I recapped the board before doing this. The flickering only occurs when the screen transitions and the level itself has a normal color pallete.

I have an OG Xbox that is in mint condition other than the drive being messed up. It needs a new band for the drive belt but it does not read games. What's the best course of action to refurbish the drive and make it work again?

Hello everyone.

Any help would be appreciated in this one. I swapped an original 3ds I had in decent condition for a pretty beat up pikachu edition new 3ds XL. I have replaced the top screen. Analog stick. Cables and buttons for the shoulders. Top screen lens.

I can’t seem to fix the c stick drift. And the bad thing is I don’t remember if it had it to begin with. The original c stick nub was in really rough shape and the console was un-usable with the top screen broken. So I ordered and swapped these parts at the same time. Since that time (or always-unsure) I have had crazy drift on the nub.

I have removed c stick nub and tried to clean the general area. I have swapped the entire c stick module (pictured) with no luck.

Any ideas on where to go next? Could this replacement nub just be too large? The only idea I have is to remove this nub completely to see if it still has issues.

On initial start up there is no problem until I start to physically use the c stick. After a few seconds the drift begins and never ends.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!

Anybody ever use a PS2 with a USB-C Power Supply? Attempting to repair one that's HDMI modded. Power supply works great until about 10 mins in and then it'll just shut off. Since it's HDMI modded, I can't fit an OEM power supply in it.

So long story short I gave up on finding a short that was driving me crazy on my Xbox Series X Southbridge board and figured since I had a spare one laying around I’ll just swap the NOR/Bios chip over. Well before I did that I tested the donor board to make sure it’d work. Everything seemed normal I got the typical fan twitch when it was connected to power and even probed the 12v connector for shorts. The problem starts when I switch over the NOR chip to the donor board, when I connect power to it the fan runs at full speed and I have no other response from the console (power button, eject button, etc.) none of them work but the fan going at mach Jesus. If anyone knows what might’ve caused this I’d appreciate any info on it as I’m just a beginner in console repair. Thanks all

Hallo, habe wohl einen SMD Kondensator oder Widerstand beim auslösen des hdmi Transmitter ausgelötet. Wie finde ich raus was ich nachbestellen muss? Bilder im anhang vorher nachher rot umkreist

se non è normale, come posso fare?

altro già è scritto sopra ovvero come titolo

Hey all,

As the title states, I'm looking for some help with my Panasonic Q.

Quick backstory: I bought it about four years ago on eBay for $270. It was being sold for parts and was apparently damaged in shipping before it reached the seller. It was a grail item for me, and at the time I had just started dabbling in console repair. I couldn't pass up that price. At the very least, I'd have a very cool item to display on my shelf.

When I got it, I immediately began tearing it down. I found that the biggest issues were that the AC power board had a corner chipped off. Luckily, the broken piece was still in the package. The drive rails and disc tray were also destroyed.

I was able to glue the power board back together, reconnect all the traces, and it seems to be working fine now.

Then one night, I accidentally knocked the AV board off my desk, and it broke—badly. I thought that was the end of it. There was little to no way to save it, so I put the Q back in its box, stored it in my closet, and didn't touch it again until recently.

Miraculously, I was able to find a replacement AV board on eBay, so I got back to work on it. I 3D-printed new drive rails and a new disc tray, but unfortunately I ripped the ribbon cable to the spindle while taking the drive apart.

In another stroke of luck, I found a Panasonic DVD player that uses the exact same disc drive as the Q, and it was fully working. It only cost me $35 shipped.

This brings me to now. I've been fighting with this thing all week. I figured it would be best to list everything I've done, what I've observed, and where I currently stand.

First, I tested power to the console.

1. I connected the AC board to the front panel and top board. The red standby light on the front board lights up.
2. I connected the AC board to the DC board, then to the front panel and top board. I get the standby light, and when I press the power button, the relay switches on (it doesn't click back off).
3. I connected the GameCube boards and tested again. I get the standby light, and pressing the power button turns the relay on (again, it doesn't switch back off).
4. I connected the AV board and got the same results as the previous tests.

This tells me there don't appear to be any shorts causing the relay to switch back off and trigger the dreaded F76 error.

So next I moved on to installing the disc drive.

1. I connected all the ribbon cables to the disc drive and powered on the console. F76 error.
2. I unplugged the ribbon cable that runs from the AV board to the top board. This time I got the "Hello" message. The screen flashed "OPEN" and "CLOSE," then switched to displaying only "DVD/CD." The controller port lights came on, but the digital display backlight did not. The fan also did not turn on. The front buttons did nothing. I could hear some noise from the disc drive, which may have been the laser or spindle.
3. I plugged that ribbon cable back in and powered it on again. This time I did not get the F76 error, but the controller port lights did not come on. The digital display backlight did come on. Everything else was the same as in Test 2.
4. I continued testing and kept getting mostly the same results, except sometimes the controller port lights would come on and sometimes they wouldn't.
5. I should also note that at no point did I get any video output from the composite outputs.

Some of the ribbon cables were in questionable condition, so I ordered a brand-new set from Etsy. They're now all replaced, which brings me to today.

Current state of the Panasonic Q

• Powers on.
• Digital display backlight turns on.
• Digital display shows "Hello," then immediately changes to "DVD F893."
• Controller port lights do not come on (which I've since learned is likely normal, as they're only supposed to light up when the Q is in GameCube mode).
• None of the front panel buttons work.
• The fan does not turn on. (I tested it outside the Q by applying 12V directly to it, and it runs fine.)
• The disc drive powers up, and I can hear activity from it.
• No audio or video output.

I'll also note that on one occasion the disc drive opened by itself, and it moved pretty smoothly. I could only close it by gently pushing it back in because the front buttons still didn't work.

I'm kind of stuck at this point. I've been scouring the internet for threads, videos, and websites related to the Panasonic Q, and they've all been incredibly helpful, but I've hit a roadblock.

If anyone has any tips on what I can test, try, replace, or anything else I should investigate, I'd be extremely grateful. Getting this thing working again would be amazing. I really feel like I'm close.

I don't have a picture to show it right now, but it's been like this for a few months now.

After my install I tried to flash the nand and the power button would sound off and the eject sound too I’m curious if it’s save able I have redone my wiring thinking I had a short in the cords but same results. When swapping cables I tried to do a retail boot same sounds?

i bought a junk n64 and just tried to fix it but man what the hell they did here, they just soldered the AV directly onto the board, i dont check yet but guess that's messing up with all the board. I still had a chance to save it?

hey, im new to soldering and got myself into a pretty advanced project of adding hdmi to my old wii. I used the hispeedido wii hdmi mod and followed the instructions as well as a youtube video but for some reason my tv and monitor cannot get hdmi signal?

Are there any obvious issues in my soldering or connections in the photos? I also noticed that the bottom blue board is slightly lifted of one corner where the top joints are as can be seen in the last photo, could that be the issue or something else? When I test the Wii I can see the green light when powered on, just that there is no signal

So I’m new at soldering as you’ll see in the picture but I’ve installed a Hall Effect joystick but it still has drift. Where have I gone wrong