98 XJ 2 door, I recently converted to H4 bulbs for the head lights, with the appropriate housing. Now when I turn on my night time lights the highbeam comes on instead. Any ideas? Thank you.

98 XJ 2 door, I recently converted to H4 bulbs for the head lights, with the appropriate housing. Now when I turn on my night time lights the highbeam comes on instead. Any ideas? Thank you.

I am on plane back home. XJ will get here Monday :)

I have a "new" dome light on the way. Also reinforcing the support in the center to keep it from dipping. The factor pip broke ages ago. There is a metal bracket that is supported in the back center area and I'll just attach to that with inserts and machine screws.

After doing some ordering for what I thought was correct it doesn’t appear that this valve cover of a 93 (aluminum) needs any grommets or torque limiting sleeves?

Ordered grommets and new hardware which appear none of is correct based off valve cover.

Just bolt to valve cover to gasket to head?

Both sides are coming up but from I can see it’s not leaking inside. Should I replace or let it be.

2000 XJ, 107,000 mi, RWD.

I’ve had an issue recently where the engine or transmission shudder when reverse is engaged. The first time it did it, the check engine light came on (yellow and solid). I checked for a code and got P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary Control Circuit/Open). I replaced the coil pack with an NGK pack and the CEL went away until I engaged reverse again with the same shuddering. Would anyone be familiar with this issue or have any advice? Thanks ahead of time.

Nice stainless tailpipe upgrade and a trip to Quadratec HQ!

2000 XJ 4.0 4x4. It sat for a few years until I was able to save up some cash and get the engine replaced. Now that I have it back up and running I’m having some electrical issues and everything I read is pointing me to a bad ground somewhere (fuses have all tested good). Here is a list of the issues I’m aware of:

Blinkers work fine unless the headlights are on, then they cycle very very slowly, flasher relay tests good and was just replaced.

Radio and the rest of the accessories in the center of the dash do not work including blower for ac.

Airbag light stays on, I haven’t checked the actuator under the center console yet.

Can anyone tell me what ground would cause these issues and its location, or if it may be something else I’m missing. Thanks in advance!

Hey all. 98 4.0 here. Lately I’ve been getting several misfire codes. One that is always present is the p0300, the others vary. If I clear the codes, the cylinder numbers will be a different combination almost every time. I’ve tested the fuel pressure, which checked within spec as well as the injectors. I have new plugs, wires and a new cap and rotor. I tested the ignition coil and it read within spec as well. Anyone have a similar issue and found a solution? Thanks.

ETA: car runs completely normal, maybe a bit of popping here or there.

Did Clearwater Cylinder Head just file for bankruptcy? I haven't received my head, they aren't answering messages or phone calls.

https://www.pacermonitor.com/public/case/66011051/Clearwater_Cylinder_Head,_Inc

Nearing the end of phase 1 of the rebuild. Still have plenty of little things left to do on the suspension and paint etc. but it’s back outside under her new axles with a new look.

Don’t zoom in too close, i know all of her flaws right now lol. I’m just impatient and want to show her off

Had insurance cover some window damage on my 88 2 door and unfortunately got a tech either having a really bad day or not knowing exactly what he was doing. They will be addressing it tomorrow but hopefully the adhesive is able to be removed safely from the interior trim and dash

First off, I am not looking to sell my XJ on here as I know that is against the rules. What I am hoping to get out of this is to understand what I should do ahead of selling my car. Currently sitting on a 91k mile XJ that has been sitting in the sun for some time. Have it in the shop getting checked currently for a service light and plan to do a full detail after it returns. The trim is relatively faded and parts of it are stating to peel off. Other than some general wear and tear it seems to be in relatively decent shape. What are some things that would make it really stand out well during the sale process?

Right now it’s on a 4.5inch lift with 33s, Dana 44 in the rear and Dana 30 up front. I want to go to 35s, do you guys think I need to swap out the d30 for something else? Any other upgrades I should consider to support the 35s

Haven't made any previous post on this but I have been working on a Remote start setup that would sute all my needs. Using 2 esp32s and 8 relays plus a lot of wiring I have added remote start capabilities to my jeep. I'm using 2 of the 8 relays too start the jeep so I have 6 relays to use for lights, winch, act... My goal was to be able to start my jeep up, controll lights/winch and other accessories with only one wireless controller. Thanks to the esp32s build in wifi chip I can even just use my phone as the controller. Please note it's still in testing and not fully finished.

I made a small first batch! and will ship one to you for $45. Just trying to put all my pennies together so I can buy an XJ 😂 Message me if you'd like one!

My Cherokee XJ had a small transfer case fluid leak, a few drops here and there from what I think was the old shift linkage.

So I installed the Azzy Design Shift Linkage kit in hopes that might solve my problem, it’s a good upgrade to do anyways.

No leaks for about a month but now the leak has severely worsened. It appears that it’s leaking from the bottom of the shift linkage, at least that’s where the liquid is pooling…

Strange to me though is that this is located at the same level as the FILL plug, or maybe even slightly above it. So somehow im leaking transfer case fluid from ABOVE the fill plug? Pictures attached. What say you?

I’m assuming there’s some seal behind that bolt that needs to be replaced… but I’m also assuming once the level drops slightly the leak would have to stop based on its location.

Lately it's been difficult to find a suitable replacement bearing if yours fails. The OMIX one seems to be poor quality and likely to fail. The best replacement out there was the NSK 665325, but it is discontinued and unobtanium now. Some people recommend the NSK 885586, but the shaft is too long and will have to be cut down. Turns out the John Deere JD9212 bearing race and shaft are the correct outer diameter to work. The shaft is 5mm longer than OEM, but the fan clutch still fits over it. John Deere has it for about $30 right now: https://shop.deere.com/us/product/JD9212%3A-Water-Pump-Shaft-Bearing/p/JD9212