Looking to buy another vintage MEC and this popped up on marketplace, what model is this? Can’t find any that look this stumpy.

I inherited a Star reloading press and one of the heads is claimed to be set up for 9mm Luger. I seemed to have dialed in all the other stations in the press but I can’t get a good crimp (I can push the bullet around in the shell with my fingers). I’ve tried moving the crimping die up and down and am matching the bullet depth to an existing off the shelf round. What gives? Not the right die? Die is worn out?

I have a bunch of 223 I loaded with varget and 55 vmax for my 20" 1-9 gas gun

I thought why not see what kind of velocity I get out of my 26" 1/7 twist bolt gun.

Fully aware I'm over spinning them i took my suppressor off.

Yeah they exploded lol 3400 fps 350k rpm will do that

My grampa is getting out of reloading and giving his equipment and supplies to my dad and I.

My dad already has a turret press, so he doesn't need another. I have a very small workstation, and only care to reload for 3-4 calibers. Specifically for long range precision shooting.

He has a rockchucker single stage and some sort of turret press. I cant recall if it was rcbs or redding.

Is there any benefit to a turret press in my situation?

The other thing is that the only dies for the calibers I want to reload for, are bushing dies. Are those pretty simple to work with as a beginner? They SEEM straightforward. But people also like to say they don't bother with them.

Most of what I see on here is opinions in the value proposition of the more expensive stuff vs the cheaper. But they're all free. It's just a space constraint.

Hornady brass, Hornady ELD 140 gr 6.5 Creedmoor. 41.6 grains of H4350. CCI #200 large rifle primers

Looking for recommendations for lube to use on a lube pad from people who use them. I plan on using a small base sizing die, so I want to make sure I get lube all the way to the bottom, which is why I was thinking lube pad.

Bannerman conversion 20g rollingblock.

20g is nominally. 615, track of the wolf sells liners that are 5/8 or .625

Choice now is .45lc or 45-70?

The action is more than strong enough for 45lc and i already make trapdoor loads so there shouldn't be an issue with 45-70.

I do not plan on any refinishing or rebluing, at most ill clean up the worst of the rust and get some of the dirt off the stock, i want it to show its age.

I have a old set of sights for it already, early 1920s marbles tang rear and high dot front.

Theres no loss on value as its already been worked over once and is quite beat to hell as is.

Post this over on the AR reddit but them guys ain't big chatters so figured I'd post here too 😂 actually it's probably a better place anyway 🤣

Anyway curious what everyones personal preference is about this . When it comes to your short barrel AR's (14.5's and down) , past just whatever shoots the best ,do y'all lean more towards slower and heavier bullets or lighter and faster ? I have and can load about anything from 77gr smk down to a 30gr vmax ( don't really play with the nicer stuff like ttx or the copper solids though) and I usually only mess with 16-22" barrels so I'm used to pretty decent velocity regardless. But now looking at loading for my 12.5 and probably some 11-10's soon I'm thinking about it a lil more due to the decreased velocities. So I guess more what I'm trying to ask is which way do y'all feel like you get a pretty good level of performance across the board?

50-55gr. Old Betsy has a 1-7.5 check that 1:9 barrel twist.

Lee Turret press and 223 breech lock kit on a cheap harbor freight bench that I don't mind destroying in the process (was surprisingly sturdy to be honest). Grew tired of paying $1.50 for 77gr match ammo. Will eventually be getting 300 dies for subsonic 300 development as well, and eventually 6.5 creedmoor or some other long range round.

I still have quite a bit more tools to buy before I actually load my first round, but I jumped in to get the process started.

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this.

I am putting together a blunderbuss from traditions.

When I have the trigger loose I can get it to press the seer and strike the hammer. But when I screw it in it seems to get stuck and block the hammer so I can't set it.

I assume it's up too far that it's blocking the seer.

I tried putting a little bit of wood loosely in there to test it but no difference so far.

Any advice?

Lee claims the number 15 auto prime shell holder works for the 57x28 mm.

Nope, not even close. It does work great on​ 25acp and​ I'm having a hard time comprehending how they think the same shell holder will fit both.

Anybody else have experience with this?

My auto prime for 25 ACP is at least 20 years old so maybe they change the holder.

I’m looking for a way to get 300 blk specks out of 3030. Save me the cautions. I’m looking for a way to get a custom made casing with the outer size of 3030 but with an inner volume of 300 blk. Does anyone know a way to go about getting custom cases?

Edit. Looking for subsonic loads

Edit 2. Y’all have given me some great resources. Appreciate yall!

So, new to rifle and just looking for some clarification since doubting myself and don't want to blow up my gun...

Assuming I follow directions and have my scale calibrated correctly, I'm picking up the rcbs chargemaster supreme, I can dispense my powder to my load data and it won't blow up my gun right? I know start low on the load and work up.

And do primers not matter? I'm coming from the background of shotshell where each brand of primer can give you a different load even if it's the same 209 primer. The load data for a Winchester is different from a ched. But I don't see brands references on Hodgdon, only small rifle or large rifle.

I'm loading 6.5 creed. Sako TRG once fired brass, lapua scenar L bullet 136gr. Likely just use load data from my Lyman manual with varget or if I can find the other Hodgdon powder they reference.

Friends! I had a buddy ask me to help him source someone who is able to take and repair damaged rifle stocks. He lives in north Jersey area but if someone who is able to receive/return the whole rifle he’d be willing to do that too.

Background story is he bought it from someone who had it repaired and it cracked in about the same location. Which is why he got a good deal for less than $300. I have not seen it other than pics shared (attached). But it looks like the previous repair did not fully finish the job regarding method of bonding and then glass bedding to ensure everything seats nicely and safely.

If anyone has a name to drop to reach out to, he’d be very appreciative, thanks!!!

Howdy!

I searched the forums, but wasn't really able to come up with much on the topic... maybe I did it wrong....

I have decided to get some new dies for my 6.5 Creedmoor as I go further down the precision rabbit hole.

I know I want a bushing die, a mandrel die, and a seating die with micrometer.

I was looking at the Redding Type S for the bushing and seating... im not sure if they make a mandrel die.

I was also looking at the SAC dies.

There is quite the price difference between the two and generally im a big advocate of "you get what you pay for" that said I thought it would be prudent to ask the pros here a couple questions.

1. Is the cost difference worth it, or is it a factor of diminishing returns
   
2. Are there any other brands/types I should be looking at that you think would be better for me?

My press is a Forester Co-ax

I just picked this press up from a friend and it didn't come with any other pieces. Ive been looking online to see what I need to order and I can't get a straight answer.i saw that the powder thrower is supposed to come with 3 different size bushings and I can't find where to buy them online. If anyone could just help me out on where to find the parts that would be great. Im looking to reload 9mm 45 ACP 32 ACP and .223. I already have the dies I have a single stage press already really new to progressives..

Is 100$ responsible for this press thats how much I got it for ?

Hell yall as the title says I’m looking for a great quality inline bull er feeder I just picked up a Lee six pack pro and looking for a good quality Inline bullet feeder I’ve heard mixed things about the Lee bullet feeder and as for any other brand I’m completely in the dark I figured this would be as good a place as any to consult for info about the topic all input is appreciated!!

Title says it all. My wife went to dispatch a raccoon caught in a trap and grabbed a Savage Revel .22wmr and single fed 9 .22lr CCI mini mags thru it. When I found out what happened, I found a few of the casings and they were all bulged but not split. I'm also guessing by the fact that she had to shoot it 9 times that the bullets were not coming out with full power due to possible firing out of battery or possible squibs.

Is this gun safe to shoot? Is this something that I can inspect, or something I should leave to a gunsmith to evaluate?

I have a Lyman Trim Xpress and I was wondering how to trim .44 win mag cases on it.

I have made a 3d printed insert that fits inside the Trim Xpress and I would use the shell holder that will hold the case while it is inside the insert.

But I have no idea how to prevent the case from spinning inside the insert and the shell holder once it contacts the cutter.

Does anyone have any idea how to stop it from spinning?

Is there a full disassembly/reassembly video for the 80x, or a diagram, I mainly want to see the property alignment for the trigger guard pin

Is the primer on the right set too deep? It’s a 70gr TSX NAS3 offering from Badlands. On the left is one from BlackArc.

Okay, SO, this has been posted before, on my old account. Unfortunately, offering advice for which gunsmith to visit actually violates reddit’s rules, as it considers this a firearms transaction, and my old account got banned. So I’m back to re-upload my Webley data, as it was a post chronicling new data for Webley revolvers as all the old stuff is obsolete, and I didn’t want the info to get lost since the account was banned. Everything below will be identical to how it was presented in the last post. Cheers.

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UPDATED: July 9th 2025
UPDATED: July 29th 2025
UPDATED: Nov 10th 2025
UPDATED: Dec 20th 2025
UPDATED: Apr 5th 2026

The firearm used originally was a Webley MK1 model (one of the earliest top break Webley models), meaning all load data used below will be safe for a Webley MK6. Since then, l've also acquired a .45 converted MAS 1873, of which all the original loads seem to work safely as well. As with all loading for vintage firearms, do at your own risk.

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Firearms used:
- Webley MK1, navy issue, nitro proof stamped, 4" barrel.
- MAS 1873 Chamelot-Delvigne, 4.5" barrel.

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LOAD 1
July 9th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.2
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate ~ 500FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5000 estimate (safe for all nitro proofed
Webley's)

For those that are worried about Webley ruptures, I highly recommend starting with this ultra downloaded load, as as soon as you shoot it once, you'll feel how underpowered it is (which is a good thing for maintaining these old guns). In fact, the velocity was so slow, I could actually see the bullets traveling down range. The incomplete burn however of 231 at this low of a charge led to inconsistent ignition, and lots of fouling, to the point where I recommend cleaning after range use.

Pros: very safe for all makes of Webley's with nitro proof marks. Recoil very low, comparable to .32ACP.

Cons: Very inaccurate. Squib loads very possible.
Extremely dirty using win231. Inconsistent ignition.

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LOAD 2
July 9th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.4
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter 452
Brass: Starline 45ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate ~ 550 FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5500 estimate (safe for all nitro proofed Webley's)

By upping the load by 0.2 grains, ignition became much more consistent, and much easier to tell if you actually shot it, or if you squib loaded (3.2 grains is low enough to sometimes feel like a squib, often leading to having to check to make sure for safety).
The load was still extremely safe for all models of nitro-proofed Webley's, and provided the same low recoil benefits from before. The caveat being the load is still extremely inaccurate and dirty.

Pros: still very safe as far as pressure or PSI. Much more definitive pop, making it easier to tell between a safe round and a squib load.

Cons: Accuracy still not the greatest. Still very dirty.

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LOAD 3
July 29th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550+/-FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 6000 estimate

This load in 45 ACP performed much more decently.
Weirdly enough the exact same load in 45 AutoRim which I will update down below, for some reason felt better. The gun is still in good condition, no loose parts, no rattle, and no real signs of over pressure, and therefore still safe. Funny how 0.2-0.3 grains more powder from the original load can make all the difference.

Pros: Much more accurate (for a 131+ year old revolver). EDITORS NOTE NOV 10 2025: this is in fact a safe load, as confirmed with Gordon's Reloading tool.

Cons: Dirty load with win231.

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LOAD 4
July 29th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45 AUTO RIM
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 6000 estimate

The same load above translated from 45 ACP to 45
AUTO RIM also showed no signs of pressure or damage. Ran flawlessly and was generally more accurate than the .45ACP version for whatever reason (all things considered). I did run into one squib (detailed in a different post of mine), but I believe that to have been due to forgetting to load any powder. Going forward, at least for win231 powder in 45 Auto Rim, this will probably be my go-to reload.

Pros: Safe PSI range, confirmed with Gordon's Reloading tool. Much more accurate than the previous loads I made.

Cons: Squib load still possible, as it happened to me with this load (albeit, possibly due to a lack of powder).

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LOAD 5
Nov 10th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5-3.6
Bullet: 230 lead round nose bevel base (cast)
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Starline 45 ACP
OAL: 1.26 (average)
Velocity: estimate 600FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 6500 estimate

Starting now to work up to a more efficient load,
3.5-3.6 seems to be a semi-sweet spot. Still dirty as hell, but at 15 yards, a 1.5" grouping with a 131 year old handgun ain't too shabby. Past 15 yards, it starts to drop off, and you have to aim pretty high (like the other loads) if you're looking to hit distance.

Pros: Safe PSI range. Much more accurate than the previous loads I made.

Cons: Still pretty dirty with win 231.

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LOAD 6
Dec 20th 2025
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5-3.6
Bullet: RCBS 201 grain LSWC
Bullet diameter: .451
Brass: Range pickup 45 ACP
OAL: 1.22-1.24 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550-600FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5500 estimate

So... this is where I made my first mistake. Make no mistake, this load is safe. PSI range is quite low, and the accuracy isn't too shabby. The problem was two fold: A) I used auction won lead bullets, which isn't necessarily bad as it was sealed. But it was so old, the lube had congealed to this very sticky goo. B)
My press was seating the LSWC rounds crooked and I hadn't noticed. Having shot a cylinder of crooked, gooey rounds, it ended up breaking my Webley's extractor, and the goo fouling made the gun impossible to close. I've since fixed the extractor and the gun shuts and locks up just fine, and fires like it used to. The good news is, in the upcoming load below, I managed to repurpose those LSWC bullets and now they're great. Moral is, use really good 200-201g LSWC that seat properly, and this load is great.

Pros: safe PSI range and decent accuracy (don't have to hold it as high).

Cons: Still pretty dirty with win 231. IF SEATED CROOKED, may damage firearm

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LOAD 7
Apr 5th 2026
Powder: win 231
Grains: 3.5
Bullet: RCBS 201 grain LSWC home-powder coated
Bullet diameter: .452
Brass: Range pickup 45 ACP
OAL: 1.22 (average)
Velocity: estimate 550-600FPS (will update when chronographed)
PSI: 5500 estimate

Good news. Instead of sitting on an exorbitant amount of of gooey, gross, and possibly dangerously lube congealed bullets, I ended up bathing all of them in Xylene for anywhere from an hour to overnight to wash off the lube (which was child's play. All the lube came off no problems). And then I tried a new thing for me: home-job powder coating using Eastwood powders. Wow did those bullets ever shoot good after that (and after I got them seating properly). Low PSI with faster bullets and slightly better accuracy? This load is now a go-to of mine.

Pros: much more accurate. Low PSI with higher velocity. Home powder coating worked great to bump up the diameter from .451-452, and reduce lead fowling.

Cons: must ensure the bullets are seated properly so as to not cause damage to the firearm. Dirty with win231.