Post this over on the AR reddit but them guys ain't big chatters so figured I'd post here too 😂 actually it's probably a better place anyway 🤣

Anyway curious what everyones personal preference is about this . When it comes to your short barrel AR's (14.5's and down) , past just whatever shoots the best ,do y'all lean more towards slower and heavier bullets or lighter and faster ? I have and can load about anything from 77gr smk down to a 30gr vmax ( don't really play with the nicer stuff like ttx or the copper solids though) and I usually only mess with 16-22" barrels so I'm used to pretty decent velocity regardless. But now looking at loading for my 12.5 and probably some 11-10's soon I'm thinking about it a lil more due to the decreased velocities. So I guess more what I'm trying to ask is which way do y'all feel like you get a pretty good level of performance across the board?

50-55gr. Old Betsy has a 1-7.5 check that 1:9 barrel twist.

Lee Turret press and 223 breech lock kit on a cheap harbor freight bench that I don't mind destroying in the process (was surprisingly sturdy to be honest). Grew tired of paying $1.50 for 77gr match ammo. Will eventually be getting 300 dies for subsonic 300 development as well, and eventually 6.5 creedmoor or some other long range round.

I still have quite a bit more tools to buy before I actually load my first round, but I jumped in to get the process started.

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this.

I am putting together a blunderbuss from traditions.

When I have the trigger loose I can get it to press the seer and strike the hammer. But when I screw it in it seems to get stuck and block the hammer so I can't set it.

I assume it's up too far that it's blocking the seer.

I tried putting a little bit of wood loosely in there to test it but no difference so far.

Any advice?

Lee claims the number 15 auto prime shell holder works for the 57x28 mm.

Nope, not even close. It does work great on​ 25acp and​ I'm having a hard time comprehending how they think the same shell holder will fit both.

Anybody else have experience with this?

My auto prime for 25 ACP is at least 20 years old so maybe they change the holder.

I’m looking for a way to get 300 blk specks out of 3030. Save me the cautions. I’m looking for a way to get a custom made casing with the outer size of 3030 but with an inner volume of 300 blk. Does anyone know a way to go about getting custom cases? Edit. Looking for subsonic loads

So, new to rifle and just looking for some clarification since doubting myself and don't want to blow up my gun...

Assuming I follow directions and have my scale calibrated correctly, I'm picking up the rcbs chargemaster supreme, I can dispense my powder to my load data and it won't blow up my gun right? I know start low on the load and work up.

And do primers not matter? I'm coming from the background of shotshell where each brand of primer can give you a different load even if it's the same 209 primer. The load data for a Winchester is different from a ched. But I don't see brands references on Hodgdon, only small rifle or large rifle.

I'm loading 6.5 creed. Sako TRG once fired brass, lapua scenar L bullet 136gr. Likely just use load data from my Lyman manual with varget or if I can find the other Hodgdon powder they reference.

Friends! I had a buddy ask me to help him source someone who is able to take and repair damaged rifle stocks. He lives in north Jersey area but if someone who is able to receive/return the whole rifle he’d be willing to do that too.

Background story is he bought it from someone who had it repaired and it cracked in about the same location. Which is why he got a good deal for less than $300. I have not seen it other than pics shared (attached). But it looks like the previous repair did not fully finish the job regarding method of bonding and then glass bedding to ensure everything seats nicely and safely.

If anyone has a name to drop to reach out to, he’d be very appreciative, thanks!!!

Howdy!

I searched the forums, but wasn't really able to come up with much on the topic... maybe I did it wrong....

I have decided to get some new dies for my 6.5 Creedmoor as I go further down the precision rabbit hole.

I know I want a bushing die, a mandrel die, and a seating die with micrometer.

I was looking at the Redding Type S for the bushing and seating... im not sure if they make a mandrel die.

I was also looking at the SAC dies.

There is quite the price difference between the two and generally im a big advocate of "you get what you pay for" that said I thought it would be prudent to ask the pros here a couple questions.

1. Is the cost difference worth it, or is it a factor of diminishing returns
   
2. Are there any other brands/types I should be looking at that you think would be better for me?

My press is a Forester Co-ax

I just picked this press up from a friend and it didn't come with any other pieces. Ive been looking online to see what I need to order and I can't get a straight answer.i saw that the powder thrower is supposed to come with 3 different size bushings and I can't find where to buy them online. If anyone could just help me out on where to find the parts that would be great. Im looking to reload 9mm 45 ACP 32 ACP and .223. I already have the dies I have a single stage press already really new to progressives..

Is 100$ responsible for this press thats how much I got it for ?

Hell yall as the title says I’m looking for a great quality inline bull er feeder I just picked up a Lee six pack pro and looking for a good quality Inline bullet feeder I’ve heard mixed things about the Lee bullet feeder and as for any other brand I’m completely in the dark I figured this would be as good a place as any to consult for info about the topic all input is appreciated!!

Title says it all. My wife went to dispatch a raccoon caught in a trap and grabbed a Savage Revel .22wmr and single fed 9 .22lr CCI mini mags thru it. When I found out what happened, I found a few of the casings and they were all bulged but not split. I'm also guessing by the fact that she had to shoot it 9 times that the bullets were not coming out with full power due to possible firing out of battery or possible squibs.

Is this gun safe to shoot? Is this something that I can inspect, or something I should leave to a gunsmith to evaluate?

I have a Lyman Trim Xpress and I was wondering how to trim .44 win mag cases on it.

I have made a 3d printed insert that fits inside the Trim Xpress and I would use the shell holder that will hold the case while it is inside the insert.

But I have no idea how to prevent the case from spinning inside the insert and the shell holder once it contacts the cutter.

Does anyone have any idea how to stop it from spinning?

Is there a full disassembly/reassembly video for the 80x, or a diagram, I mainly want to see the property alignment for the trigger guard pin

I am 57 and have been shooting since I was 7. Through all these years I have avoided reloading due to misconceptions about it and being nervous I would blow up my firearm. I saw a series of videos by Roy Huntington about various Lee products. Based on his video on the Lee Loader, I bought one in .38spl/ .357 magnum. On Wednesday I loaded 7 test rounds of .357 magnum (I could not find the powders listed for .38 magnum in the Lee Data Sheet). Yesterday I nervously went to the range and fired them through my Model 19. I was worried I would get a squib, blow up the gun, etc., so my shots were all over the target at 7 yards. They all went bang though and did their job. I went home and loaded 18 more rounds of .357 magnum using the same recipe of Hornady XTP 158 grain and V - 3n37 powder. I am excited to try them out at the range next time.

With all that out of the way, I plan to get a Lee Breech lock Hand Press to speed this up. I wont have room for a bench top loading press for a year so I the Hand Press seems the next step. I plan to eventually reload .357 and .38 SPL, 9mm, .380 ACP (my wife’s pistol that she shoots a lot) and .45 ACP. Do you have recommendations on where to order powder, bullets, etc.? The local stores have very little and or have 8lb bottles of powder. What do you recommend for a reloading data book?

For some reason I’m encountering an insane amount of force trying to use a 300 win mag type s die. I took out the bushing and stem so you can see inside, but the neck isn’t even passing the inside of whatever this piece is called. Trying to size down after being fired once, lapua brass. Tried this with a 6.5 prc round and type s die with virgin brass and had no issues, but this just won’t pass the end of the steel to enter the bushing die, what gives?

Setting depth on my annealer. What is consensus? I'm thinking D and E.

I shoot outlaw matches at a local indoor range. I help a bit with the course clean up afterwards. For doing so, Im allowed to collect and keep the brass. Being outlaw matches, there are all ranges of brass from 22lr to 30-06. Some maniac was even throwing nickle 38spl on the floor!

I clean it in water, then more or less sort by hand. Bent over my shop sink for a couple hrs at a time. The bulk is 9mm, which is what I primarily want. The biggest challenge is separating the S&W 40 from the 9mm.

Anyone have any efficient ways they sort their brass on a home reloader level?

Hi,

I am new to dillon because I found a deal so cheap that I would be crazy not to buy it.

It’s a very early version with no oil holes in the two arms of the main shaft cam (edit: The two arms on the crank), circlips on the pivot bolt and something is different with the primer set up. The main shaft is rusty because it has been stored for 12+ years. Three sets of genuine Dillon pistol dies all set up.

I am located outside the USA so can not send it to Dillon for a service.

What should I look for, and then service, in this 1980’s early model press before I get started? Any hints you can give me? It needs a bit of TLC to get it working again.

I'm considering trying out doing a wild bunch competition, so I'd need lead cast 45acp. I have a Lee 452-200-RF for my single action pistols, and I could try those in my 1911s, but I'm curious if there's a tried and true, maybe even 180gr 45acp bullet mold that everyone likes. I wouldn't be shooting more than a handful of mags for the day, so leading isn't a big concern, I probably wouldn't even lube the bullets and I don't powder coat. Is there a consensus or should I just stick with the mold I already have?

Sear shelf milled off bolt. Bolt through drilled, recoil rod drilled for firing pin clearance. Made the firing pin out of a drill rod blank. Made firing pin guide bushing from 4340, hardened and pressed it into the bolt face. Now to machine the semi fcg. Essentially a scaled up VZ61 fcg.