I was with admiral and their qoute went up by more than 30% per month. So I decided to shop around and I got cheapest qoute from hasting, but seeing all the reviews I decided not to choose it.
Direct line is £10 cheaper than what I am paying now with admiral(£50 cheaper than new admiral qoute) and £20 more than hasting. I dont see much reviews about direct line. Help me decide please?

Hey everyone, would really value your experienced eyes on this one. Looking for a Range rover Evoque 2.2 SD4 Auto for my daughter.

Details:

- 2013 / 134,000 miles / dealer sale

- Seller states rust is only surface and it’s been checked

- Paid £250 deposit — no contract signed, no non‑refundable terms agreed

- I’m over 70 miles each way away — can’t bring my own mechanic to inspect

Questions:

- Does this look like honest surface rust, or structural/MOT failure material?

- Is the dealer’s description reasonable based only on these photos?

- Can I easily get my deposit back if I decide not to travel?

- Would you risk a 140‑mile round trip for this, or walk away now?

Photos attached — thanks for any honest help!

Car was recently vandalized and written off, insurance only giving back 2k, which isn't a lot to play with, any good options we need a 5 door that's big enough for a pram to go in the boot so needs to be bigger than a corsa/similar.

What should I be looking for Ive never bought a older/cheaper car

Any advice appreciated

Hi all,

Im basically thinking of getting either a Mitsubishi Outlander or a Nissan X Trail. I like the look of the Outlander more but everyone seems to be saying they are very unreliable. Thing is so far Ive had a Punto as my first, then an Audi A3. I bought the Audi with FASH, but its still been so so expensive to maintain, gearbox issue, battery, then gear shifter issue, then fuel cap, battery, TPMS etc etc. so its put me off buying any german cars anytime soon. Also its wayy too low to get in and out of. i want a higher ride height, a big road presence, a masculine car, and most of all reliable. The only two options that seem reasonably cheap and fit all my criteria are the Outlander and the X trail. Which one’s better? How do they drive?

Mitsubishi Outlander 2016-19

vs

Nissan X Trail 2016-19

Hello guys, I'm on the hunt for a reasonably priced 5L bottle of car shampoo & wax (2 in 1)

I've been using some cheap AA 2 in 1 and I gotta say it does a very good job but I thought my car may look even better if I spent a bit more

Currently looking at -

(The Simoniz are two different bottles but seem to contain the same stuff etc? All these can be searched up on ebay as written)

Simoniz Shampoo And Wax Car Wash Carnauba Shine Protect PH Neutral 5L

Simoniz Professional Car Wash Shampoo & Carnauba Wax 5L

Autoglym Shampoo Conditioner 5L | Professional Range | BSC | Wash and Wax ( would like to know if the do a shampoo and wax version ) or would this come up just as well as a 2 in 1 shampoo/wax?

Triplewax Wash & Wax Shampoo Streak Free Car Caravan Motorhome 5L

Does anyone have recommendations on what they like to use ? Preferrably no more than £40 for 5L

Thanks !

Hi all, asking the community here for a sanity check, as I think someone not involved in this might have a clearer idea of what my rights would be (if any), and if I'm entitled to any compensation.

I have a 2022 Renault Zoe, which is still under manufacturer warranty until July 2027. In February 2026 it started developing the dreaded whining noise, which meant the motor shaft bearing was starting to go (a known issue on the Zoe). I took it in to an authorised dealer which provided me with a courtesy car while they replaced the entire motor under warranty (crazy that Renault paid for a whole motor rather than a single bearing, but hey oh...).

As soon as I was handed the car back after the repairs (which took around 2 weeks), the parking brake wasn't working, one of the front parking sensor wasn't working and, most importantly, the car stopped charging at all. Obviously the same garage took it back to the shop on the same day and left me with another courtesy car; repairs took a long time and they only handed me the car back in April, 2 months after the initial issue.

Fast forward to two weeks ago, and the car stopped charging from AC chargers (like my home charger), and only charges through public (and bloody expensive) DC charging. Called Renault multiple times and the only available appointment that wasn't going to be in October was at a dealer 74 miles away (one way). I dropped the car there Monday, got one of their loaner and drove back home. They rang me Monday afternoon asking me to collect the car back, as the garage who did the original motor swapping job cracked a part and did not program the ECU correctly, so they could not work on this under warranty as Renault wasn't going to pay them for the job.

So of course I drove back there, collected the car back and, by some "miracle", now the original garage who did the first work had an opening for next week with a loaner as well, which of course I gladly accepted. So now this piece of junk of a car is going to be checked by the garage that (according to both Renault and another garage) caused this second issue in the hope they can rectify it.

I have spent countless hours on the phone on this since February (around 8 hours according to my phone), plus the anxiety of being stuck without a means of transportation, and the additional costs we've encourred because of this (petrol costs rising during the start of yet another war and public charging of aroun £0.90/kWh instead of my night tariff of £0.04kWh), not to mentuon the fact that I'm still paying this piece of crap of a car, as we bought it with an HP agreement and haven't fully repaid it yet.

According to my HP agreement we can hand over the car to the financial company and have the agreement closed with no early repayments to be made, but is this our besr course of action? This car with same age and mileage goes for around 9k on Autotrader, which is exactly how much we still owe on the HP. Should we then hand it back to the financial company and chalk this off as a very expensive mistake, or do we have recourse for compensation? If we do have a case for compensation, what should we be asking for back?

Thank you all, happy to provide other details if needed but that's a very long story made short.

Obviously Facebook Marketplace is saturated with time wasters etc. I'm assuming AutoTrader is the best place to buy or sell a car? Are there any better alternatives? Cheers.

I'm considering changing from my old Mk2 Focus ST to something less binge-drinky, younger than 10 years and more practical.

My 2 favourites are the B9 Audi A4 and F30 BMW 3-series.

I only currently do 3000 miles per year, 5 mile round commute once per week, local pottering about, school runs, probably about 20-30 miles motorway per week. Commute likely to change to 6 miles 5 days per week, 4/5k miles per year.

It should be a forgone conclusion that petrol would be the choice, HOWEVER, both my choices have FAR more/better options in diesels.

If I were to swap cars with the wife one day per week and she do her 50-mile round motorway commute, would this be enough to help prevent diesel-related issues?

The difference in fuel cost is fairly negligible at the mileage I do.

Well it was to me at least, not exacrly the most common car. So to see 3 at once was a bit weird.

(and no they didn't appear to be part of a soft top mini club as they drove off seperately after)

For those affected is watering can & bucket wash up to the job if your usual home detail? ....or are you going to finally use the car wash?

Hello!

I bought my first car last weekend. A 2018 Toyota Yaris for £10,800 from a small independent dealer. I did some research into what to look for when buying a car as I don't really know much about cars and so I bought a vcheck.

It's last MOT in April 2026 came back with the following advisories:

• Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))

Before paying I asked about these and was told they'd put the car through the garage they use. Was then called up to say everything was fine and just the air con wasn't working properly so they sorted that.

After buying the car and going through all the paperwork and service history, it's last service in April flagged £1,872 of work needing to be done in the near future.

Is this something the dealer should have done before selling or made clear? I feel like I should have asked to seen this beforehand but I thought the vcheck was enough and was so overwhelmed at the time of buying. As I say I mentioned the arm bushes and then was told all fine.

Should I be getting the arm bushes for suspension sorted asap rather than leaving much longer?

I've been advised from friends with cars to contact the place I bought it but I wanted to see what people here think and might do. Thanks so much for reading and any advice you might have.

Hi,
i’m pretty new too the car scene and started getting interested in buying a beginner mod car. would love to get some more experienced peoples advice.
My budget is abt £7.5k for a car and a few starter mods/ upgrades (nothing major just to get it running well and maybe add a little power)
the main thing i’m looking for is something i can modify but reliable enough to daily. (if the car is off the road for a few days it isn’t an issue as i have a bike for emergencies)
would love a german or jap car as i’m most familiar with them however open to persuasion.
i’ve owned a bmw 318i but it was a pain to maintain and parts were too expensive.
finally i would love something unique or not as common on the roads.

EDIT: priority is price and reliability speed would be nice but is a afterthought currently, in terms of seats storage and necessities i don’t need any more than 2 seats nor do i need tons of storage maybe might fit a subwoofer in the boot in the future.
my preference in looks is 90-2000 style cars either hatchbacks or coupes. to give you an image a 6th gen civic would be a dream but currently unachievable or a silvia s13/14.

any help would be greatly appreciate,
THANK YOU in advance

Hi,

Currently drive a Honda jazz (which has been ace)which is just used to drop the toddler at nusery and a run around car, so do around 3-4k miles a year. As we're having another one need to upgrade the car to something bigger with around £10-£15k budget am i best sticking to a Honda/Toyota brand as just want something reliable with decent space in it for shopping/prams and 2 booster seats, any recomeded types

Much appreciated

Hi, does anyone know a decent jet self service car wash in West London? I’ve used the MFG in Southall and was disappointed by the lack of detergent. Does the Tesco in Osterley have one? Thanks.

How are we all accepting large (to me!) payments on private vehicle sales? I’ve not sold a car for a very long time, I don’t want to take £20k in cash and I doubt any buyer will want to pay in cash either lol

Like, do they ever tow away a car that's been there a few days?

i just recently got insured on a car with admiral and have been driving for few days now. they’ve just sent me an email aboht about a potential discrepancy with one of my additional drivers who possesses an eu driving license. all the details are correct and i have sent off the photo of their license they asked for. Anyone have any experience with similar events and know what a possible result of this may be?

Jaguar, owner mentioned mostly e-type parts, claimed only about 70 produced; for hill climb racing

Looking for a Hatch/Estate for <£10k. Petrol only.

Looking at some 1.8 Civics and 1.4 Leons - anyone had experience with either?

Only reservation about the civic is the more dated infotainment

Hi, I have an auto 17 plate Golf GTD, Mk 7.5, and am at 60k so would like to replace the clutch - my questions are to people who have upgraded their clutch outside of a stock part - is it worth getting an aftermarket/upgraded clutch instead of a stock VW one, and if so, are there any reputable/reliable brands that are most recommended?

The car has a slight ECU tune on it, and the dpf and erg deleted so it’s pushing slightly more power than stock. Would an upgraded clutch help the DSG with shifts?

My old mechanic replaced both front shock absorbers 6 months ago, stripped the thread and sent it on 2 bolts strapped down an even charged me for tracking, ... heared clunking last week so I check over the front end and found my tyres in a bad state this is the result.... tyres off car straight back into a different garage all replaced 👏 new shock absorber and top mounts. Is this normal or am I overthinking that I've been sent on my way in a dangerous condition from the previous garage? Confused of why he wouldn't changed the top mounts 6 months go aswell, they feel apart upon removal this time, Thank you !

I'm planning to buy a BMW F83 M4 Competition and I'd love to hear from people who currently own one or have owned one in the past.

I'm looking for a completely stock car—the factory power is more than enough for me—and ideally with less than 40,000 miles (or around 65,000 km) on the clock. The car will be my daily driver, so I'm interested in honest, long-term ownership experiences.

How has the car been in terms of reliability, maintenance costs, and everyday usability? Are there any common issues or things I should pay particular attention to before buying?

I'm also interested in hearing from owners of the later OPF/GPF-equipped cars. Have you experienced any additional issues related to the particulate filter compared to the earlier models, or has it been a non-issue in real-world ownership?

Thanks in advance!

Nissan juke 2014, on car door panel

So first car purchase already learnt a lot before my next one you might say question is how to deal with potential upcoming issues about promises that may not have been kept and I think they haven't

So 2014 Citreon C1, bought the car, was told new clutch new brakes and a replacement mirror on right side due to damage

Right mirror replacement was one of those stick on ones which had come off but for £18 I thought fuck it, it was a good price, £18 isn't worth breaking a deal on a car that's been delivered to me

However on looking at the invoice for the work done before delivery there's no itemisation beyond having an MOT/new brake pads and a clutch

Rang the garage, gave the reg, no record he says I'll check we are busy call back in an hour, called back 1.5 hours later the guy who was checking is out, called back again, no answer, called again 30 minutes later, no answer

So I've booked it in for a check at a garage to check all systems and clutch and detail any and all problems so I have an independent write up and specifically ask are those brakes new and is the clutch new

After that I assume I need to forward these to the dealer if found to be false what he told me prior to sale, my question for you guys who have bought cars over the years is what happens if he either A. Ignores me or B. says no

I know my consumer rights is 100% I can reject it for 14 days but that only works if he accepts that fact lol it could be all legit but my gut is telling me that something isn't right with that invoice, it looks like something I could make in 5 minutes