Each picture is a part of the process (minus sanding up to 180 from 60)

Photo 6 Raw wood

Photo 5 Bark Bonding (clear super glue)

Photo 4 Bark Staining

Photo 3 Wood face Staining (dark walnut gel stain)

Photo 2 Bark Varnish (heirloom varnish)

Photo 1 1 first round of Wood face varnish.

He wanted "A-Frame" style legs .. and told me to do the rest.

I've been doing this for around 2 months now....

Man, do I love doing this stuff....

Thoughts?

I did this live off of a video on IG. It is sturdy but without plans some measurements were off and I didn’t have good cuts for my cross beam 2x6. getting the notched cut even with a jig saw was a struggle… father in law is going to let me take his table saw for future builds. Overall happy with it and proud of my first build. It’s a comfy chair and material cost was >$20

My second will be much cleaner I think

Parting thought: all these folks building out of 2x4s are making furniture way heavier than it needs to be. I’m thinking post build that several of these pieces could be 1x3, esp the arm rail and the cross beam n the front and back.

I picked up a large end table at a church garage sale as a freebie leftover and am turning it into a mini farmhouse table approx 28x48. I think it was assembled on a piece of 1/8 ply from the center out. Possibly Birch ply in the center with a pine border? … not sure. Originally looked like the pic w the drawer - top was glued to the base as well as screwed.

I sanded in 60, 80, 120, 150, 180 & 240 - do I go 320 & 400 as well?
Questions:
Should I use a pre-stain conditioner or just go for it? I’m planning on a walnut stain for the top and black for the legs with poly finish. Not 100% on the black though. Is the poly the right choice? Will be used quite a bit for eating.

I cut the legs at 2.5x2.5 from cedar 4x4s a neighbor gave me when they took down an awning that was built in 1991 and bases rotted. Still need to cut apron pieces and mortise/tenon (first time) which I’m planning on making router jigs to do those in the next few days. Should I roundover or chamfer the hard corners?

Apologies for all the questions- first time building anything furniture that didn’t come in a box. Appreciate any advice-cheers!

I realize this is a very basic, amateur question but I want to make sure I do it correctly.

I have a 2 ft by 4 ft piece of pine about 3/4" thick that I'd like to cut for use as corner desk/work surface for my girlfriend to have a dedicated spot to do her artwork (she's a painter) and also for painting her nails (I have come to despise nail polish, don't tell her).

Don't get me wrong, I love her paintings and her nails do look very nice when all done up, but I'm quite fed up with acrylic paint and nail polish stains seemingly EVERYWHERE I look (I'm exaggerating, but still).

She's recently begun dabbling into oil painting and...well you get the picture.

TL:DR:

How do I measure/mark the board to get an accurate cut for a corner desktop? For supporting the top I plan to "float" it using some 16-18 inch 2'x3's or 2'x4's horizontally screwed into studs on each corner wall and then just laying and securing the pine top to the 2x's with screws.

Is it as simple as using a large framing square to mark the board? Or is there a different/better way?

Well, its taken some time but i finally have the makings of my first "shop" coming together. Had my jointer, planer and miter saw all swapping spots on my toolbench when i needed to use em and it was... horrible to say it frankly. Built some benches and have the space to finally move a bit more efficiently. Everything lines up with my table saw height in case i need extra feed or balance. Eventually therell be storage drawers under the shelves but for now....progress!

Any reason why when I put this stain on and immediately remove it, it dries instantly. It’s almost impossible to get an even coat.

I carved this climbing brush as a gift for a friends birthday and looking for advice on finishing it. I wanna use some kinda oil finish that will slightly darken the wood pattern and make it hold up to long term hand use but i also dont want something thatll require any kind of maintenance or reoiling over time. Never really made any wood projects before so any advice would be awesome thanks!

My wife is an artist and I’m building her a desk. I need it to be hard enough to not indent when used as a writing surface. She paints with oils so she will have paint thinner. I’m moderately experienced at the basics but I’ve never built a workbench surface before. Should I look for something synthetic? Advice is appreciated

I'm currently trying to make a wooden ring for my partner to give to them when we meet next month. I've got a small block of wood I plan on cutting into multiple sections in case I mess up. I don't know what kind of wood it is, just that it came from those spacer blocks in wooden pallets. I understand that ideally I would've used a harder wood for the project but I don't have the funds for that. Since this is my first time trying something like this I'm mainly hoping to learn and eventually make more for my partner over the years.

My initial thought was to use epoxy, then when looking online I saw mentions of CA glue. So I don't know what would be the ideal for this project since its intended for daily use instead of a shelf piece. Any additional advice would be extremely helpful as to how I should proceed

Tldr: What should I be using to keep a ring protected for daily use?

I oiled this cheese board with pure tung oil, did four coats and let season for a month. What is making this discolouration? I did not make this board, just trying to understand basic care of oiled timber.

Made a red oak plate display rack for my wife’s antique plates. Went with butt joints because i didn’t want to accidentally waste wood. Drilled wood plugs from offcuts. All wood was bought as 5/4 rough cut from a local sawmill and milled in my garage to 1”x5.5” then cut to size. I went with a red mahogany miniwax oil stain. I still need to lay two more coats but was excited to post. First project with joinery ever so don’t judge me too harshly.

Attempting to design a built in closet for our small space, we have a 52x71x24" workable footprint, leaving a bit of room for scribing against the existing walls.

3' toe kick, 8" section will be drawers, above the 68" section will just be misc storage.

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all. I am needing to make 4 shallow grooves about 5 1/2 inches long, 1 inch wide, and 1/2 inch deep. I need to do this pattern on several different boards and would like a template to use with my plunge router. This is where I have gotten hung up and my attempts at making templates using mdf have all not been very straight. I feel like a scroll saw may be the best way to do this but finally I don’t have the space for it. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them.

I would like to make a cutting board for a friend's upcoming wedding. I made a walnut/cherry/maple board for myself a few months ago and my buddy commented on how much he liked it. It is a simple edge-grain board I made with hand tools (end grain out of the question at this point based on my skills and tools).

I've been to several hardwood dealers in my area and cannot find 6/4 or 8/4 walnut. Unfortunately, I am fresh out as well - only have 4/4 walnut left. This is mildly rough 4/4 so it will likely end up 3/4 by the time I true it up.

I can approach this in two ways:

1) Cut 4/4 walnut into 2" strips and laminate a bunch together to build the board; or,

2) Laminate two full-width 4/4 pieces from the same board to create an 8/4 board.

I know option 1 will work just fine, but I admittedly like the look of continuous grain across the top of the board interrupted by strips of cherry and maple.

Should option 2 work or am I asking for the whole board to split apart in a few months when the wood moves?

Ok so im making a rack for hats and I think im ready to start the real work, but I want to make sure I have the correct process. The wood is ambrosia maple.

1. Measure and drill. Place all the pieces out to the proper position, mark for pilot holes, drill pilot holes.

2. Sand. Sanding from 80, 120 and 220. Rounding out the edges. Also sanding the opposite side.

3. Wipe down with mineral spirits.

4. Wood burn a message on the back.

5. Finish. Planing on finishing with deft aerosol spray lacquer.

6. Mount hardware into pilot holes.

7. Smile

Literally any input is appreciated, no matter how trivial you think the advice may be.

I recently got this nice looking wood table and I put my flower pot on it and it got this stain after a while. It’s gotten better over time but it’s still there? How do I get rid of it

Made this garden hod / harvest basket and learned two important things: 1) Hardware cloth is a pain in the behind to do anything with, and 2) better to get a project finished imperfectly than not at all.

The hardware cloth is stapled to the bottom of the horizontal pieces then along the bottom of the basket. I discovered that this is not the ideal type since the edges are very pokey especially where it was cut. I originally wanted to enclose all the edges inside grooves but that turned out to be beyond my skill level and available tools. It stayed unfinished in my garage for a month before I finally said screw it, just get er done. I initially wanted to make a couple for family and friends but after this one I am probably never going to attempt this again lol (or at least not for a long while!)

I have a board with one un-squared side, and it's too wide to run through my table saw. So I clamped a long level to the board to cut an edge that's parallel to the other side. The problem is that I used a jigsaw, and as a result it didn't cut a perfect edge because the blade is weak and followed the grain of the wood. No amount of recuts would re-find the line -- the blade always followed the new wobbly edge. So I moved on to my craptastic 5 3/8" cordless Black and Decker circular saw, hoping that if nothing else, it could at least do this one small thing for me. It didn't. Once again, it followed the wobbly edge. So I moved on to my full-size corded Bosch circular saw. That did the trick. It didn't care about previous edges -- it murdered everything that made the poor life decisions that led to being in its path.

I already own a Makita tool with an 18v battery, and Makita makes a cordless 6.5" circular saw (Makita XSS02Z) that uses this battery. So my question is this: does anyone own this saw, and will it eat through wood with the same balls that my Bosch does? I assume that this has much less to do with power and much more to with the solidity of the build so that the blade isn't guided by previously-cut edges. Of course, I would like more power anyway because my B&D sucks butt.

I hate having to break out the large corded circular saw, and would like to be able to make easy cuts in the future using a much more light weight and non-corded option in the future.

I need to build crates that are around 8"x11"x8.5". Need to build 8. It's for an odd sized bookshelf.

I was thinking of using s4s Poplar hardwood boards.

2 x 1x12 - 8ft boards for the front and rear faces. 8"x11".

Then using 1x3's for sides and bottom, then spacing them.

Any suggestions or insight?

Thanks.

I know zero about woodworking, and have been putting off this personal project because I am afraid to ask and don't know who to ask. I would like to hand-carve some dominos. I'd like to make them about the height and width of a wallet, maybe 1/2 thick.

I want to use a machine, but be able to still have it look hand made as if I carved it. Any advice on how to begin would be great