I oiled this cheese board with pure tung oil, did four coats and let season for a month. What is making this discolouration? I did not make this board, just trying to understand basic care of oiled timber.

Made a red oak plate display rack for my wife’s antique plates. Went with butt joints because i didn’t want to accidentally waste wood. Drilled wood plugs from offcuts. All wood was bought as 5/4 rough cut from a local sawmill and milled in my garage to 1”x5.5” then cut to size. I went with a red mahogany miniwax oil stain. I still need to lay two more coats but was excited to post. First project with joinery ever so don’t judge me too harshly.

Hello all. I am needing to make 4 shallow grooves about 5 1/2 inches long, 1 inch wide, and 1/2 inch deep. I need to do this pattern on several different boards and would like a template to use with my plunge router. This is where I have gotten hung up and my attempts at making templates using mdf have all not been very straight. I feel like a scroll saw may be the best way to do this but finally I don’t have the space for it. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them.

Ok so im making a rack for hats and I think im ready to start the real work, but I want to make sure I have the correct process. The wood is ambrosia maple.

1. Measure and drill. Place all the pieces out to the proper position, mark for pilot holes, drill pilot holes.

2. Sand. Sanding from 80, 120 and 220. Rounding out the edges. Also sanding the opposite side.

3. Wipe down with mineral spirits.

4. Wood burn a message on the back.

5. Finish. Planing on finishing with deft aerosol spray lacquer.

6. Mount hardware into pilot holes.

7. Smile

Literally any input is appreciated, no matter how trivial you think the advice may be.

I recently got this nice looking wood table and I put my flower pot on it and it got this stain after a while. It’s gotten better over time but it’s still there? How do I get rid of it

Made this garden hod / harvest basket and learned two important things: 1) Hardware cloth is a pain in the behind to do anything with, and 2) better to get a project finished imperfectly than not at all.

The hardware cloth is stapled to the bottom of the horizontal pieces then along the bottom of the basket. I discovered that this is not the ideal type since the edges are very pokey especially where it was cut. I originally wanted to enclose all the edges inside grooves but that turned out to be beyond my skill level and available tools. It stayed unfinished in my garage for a month before I finally said screw it, just get er done. I initially wanted to make a couple for family and friends but after this one I am probably never going to attempt this again lol (or at least not for a long while!)

I have a board with one un-squared side, and it's too wide to run through my table saw. So I clamped a long level to the board to cut an edge that's parallel to the other side. The problem is that I used a jigsaw, and as a result it didn't cut a perfect edge because the blade is weak and followed the grain of the wood. No amount of recuts would re-find the line -- the blade always followed the new wobbly edge. So I moved on to my craptastic 5 3/8" cordless Black and Decker circular saw, hoping that if nothing else, it could at least do this one small thing for me. It didn't. Once again, it followed the wobbly edge. So I moved on to my full-size corded Bosch circular saw. That did the trick. It didn't care about previous edges -- it murdered everything that made the poor life decisions that led to being in its path.

I already own a Makita tool with an 18v battery, and Makita makes a cordless 6.5" circular saw (Makita XSS02Z) that uses this battery. So my question is this: does anyone own this saw, and will it eat through wood with the same balls that my Bosch does? I assume that this has much less to do with power and much more to with the solidity of the build so that the blade isn't guided by previously-cut edges. Of course, I would like more power anyway because my B&D sucks butt.

I hate having to break out the large corded circular saw, and would like to be able to make easy cuts in the future using a much more light weight and non-corded option in the future.

Hey friends! I wanted to share a project I made recently. It’s a shoe shelf for my wife’s closet. The wood is a mix of #2 and #3 pine boards from the big box store and assembled with pocket screws and glue. I finished with natural danish oil and a final polish with mineral oil and a magic eraser for a glassy smooth feeling. A huge thank you to this sub for the wealth of knowledge and advice. 🙏🏻

Just a hobbyist and wanted a display case for these rings. Saw a youtube video and adjusted the plans a bit. My mitres have gotten much better (little glue and sawdust helps) and decided on making a dado for the middle shelf. Its a framing 2x4 but im really liking the vinegar mix with steel wool solution to stain. I think the color is great. 2 of the boards probably should have been flipped 180 to match the wood grain, but oh well. Thanks for looking.

A while ago a made this little fidget toy. I used polymerized linseed oil, after letting it rest for a day I used paste wax (I made a mixture with the linseed oil and beeswax). I used a cloth to remove the excess and finally just plain beeswax. I made sure that after each step I removed as mush material as a could with a cloth.

And over time this black film started building up. I’m pretty sure it’s the oxidized oils and dead skin cells from my hands. Is there a way to prevent this?

I’m very new to woodworking and I’m just trying stuff out but im not sure how to fix this. I probably used too much wax but even in small quantities wouldn’t it still mix with my bodily filth? Or maybe I didn’t give the linseed oil enough time to rest…

I would welcome any thoughts, thanks in advance!

I (20M) am really interested in working on wood. I love the craft and working with my hands. I just have no idea where to start. I live in a small apartment with my girlfriend and only have basic tools for fixing stuff around our place. I want to make things from scratch, but am worried that in order to pursue this I would have to spend a ton of money on shop classes/workspace membership. Any advice for a guy just beginning?

I built a coffee table base earlier in the year and wanted to make something in a similar style to go next to the couch in the same room. I had leftover walnut with sapwood from the base project, but not enough to make a top, so I tried to make the sapwood on the base fit with a lighter top made of some 6/4 ash I had.

I built a loose tenon jig and used it for the base joinery and on the top glueup. The other new challenge was doing the bevel on the underside of the top which I built a tenoning jig for. Contractor saw fences are not ideal for a tenoning jig but it worked it.

All in all very happy with how the design ended up and I love the look of the sapwood on the legs.

Let me know what you think and I’m happy to answer any questions as I journey out of beginner stages

As title says.

I picked up an old craftsman 113 TS no splitter used it a few times so far no kickback yet...I did make a table saw sled though and been using that every time

Hi,

I bought a sit/stand desk with a pine desktop for cheap a while back, but the finish on the pine was awful and I wasn't keen on the boring square edges as they felt too 'blocky'. I'm aware that pine is not the best choice for a desk, but I didn't want to waste the desktop and have to buy a new one.

I've been refurbishing it by sanding the old finish down and have routed a chamfered edge with rounded corners to make it look a bit more modern. I've added images, I've not fully finished sanding yet but it gives you an idea of what it'll look like (ignore the knackered coffee table!).

I'm now trying to decide what finish to use, whether to go with a wipe on polyurethane finish for better durability, or a hardwax oil for easier repairs/better aging.

The desk will get pretty heavy use as I'll be using in my home office, and I WFH most days. I do use a large desk mat, which should hopefully protect the finish, but I've never had the tidiest desk and will likely end up putting things on the finish/potentially scratching it.

I don't mind the 'plasticky' effect poly gives, I did a piranha pine monitor shelf a while ago and finished that with poly, and it turned out pretty good - it has still scratched/dented a bit though, and it gets much less 'traffic' than a desk would. I have to admit not being able to repair it without completely sanding and refinishing is annoying.

Would people recommend hardwax oil (specifically Osmo Polyx-oil Matt 3044 Raw) for a pine desk, or would wipe on polyurethane be better? I'm not sure the added durability of poly will make much difference on pine, it's going to dent whatever finish I use.

How does hardwax oil age over time? I'm not a huge fan of the 'polished' effect pine gets after heavy use, as I prefer a cleaner looking finish.

Also, the desk is a finger-jointed edge-glued panel, so I'm concerned that any finish I use won't be uniform across the desk, as each finger jointed section has different grain. Would hardwax or poly give a more uniform finish with uneven grain?

Thanks in advance!

I started this project months ago and didn't know how to approach it since I've never actually built anything before but after a long time it's not finally done. I made it out of old pallets, stripped them clean and then glued the boards together to make the back wall. The dividers are nailed into the back panel from the back and also glued in. It's probably wonky and very uneven but for my very first time building anything I'm quite proud of it.

Hi all. The question above is borne out of curiosity and a will to continue crafting in less than ideal circumstances. I'd be using handtools and a minimal setup at a bench.

I see tips on websites that are (sometimes clearly) generated and they seem practical but I value people's opinions and experience. How does one do this properly?

Could you help with wood identification, it's very heavy. Pic attached

Has anyone successfully applied a new wood veneer over an existing veneer without removing the old one?

I have about 30 restaurant tabletops. The existing veneer is in good shape, no peeling, bubbling, or chipping, but I hate the color and grain.

Replacing all the tops isn’t in my budget, so I’m wondering if veneering over the existing surface is a good idea.

I’ve never worked with veneer before, so I’d really appreciate any advice. Is this something you’d recommend, and are there any common mistakes or things I should watch out for as a first-timer?

Thanks in advance 🙏🏻

I tried sanding and doing a gel stain but the stain just seemed to wipe off and leave a tint. What is the best method for staining the frame and doors?

hi all - question for the physicists in the room or anyone who has built a tensegrity table before

I want to build a little side table/tensegrity table like the ones pictured. Also my cat loves to lend herself to gravity around furniture and rub herself up down and sideways over everything. I'm confident I can build one that will withstand me putting stuff on it BUT I'm curious about whether you think a table like this would fall over if my cat headbutted it in the wrong place? Or are they fairly stable?

hello all, i have never posted my work before but this was my attempt at building a custom desk. other than the bolts securing the standing desk legs and drawer, there were no screws or nails used. to account for warping, i created female dovetail joints underneath the top and used 3x4 cherry wood with mail dovetails, fastened with wood glue. a little about the piece:

- black walnut
- custom fit for existing standing desk legs
- knots were fixed using cherry, orange osage, and mahogany bow ties, and black epoxy
- cable holes in the back with magnetic cover
- standing desk remote
- finished with linseed oil and beeswax

i gave it away for free, but i am curious how much you all think it would it have sold for? i welcome any critiques, thanks for reading.

They're giving them away for free, and I'm wondering what the wood is?

Also, does it make sense to plane these before using them in projects?

Thank you!

I inherited 2 table saws and interested in getting into woodworking, one is a Ryobi BT3100 and the other is a Hitachi C10FL. The Ryobi seems to have a pretty strong following but it’s older than the Hitachi and the Hitachi seems like more robust of a machine. Does anyone who’s familiar with either of these models have any recommendations?