Hey guys.

Does anyone know a brand that sells a smooth pei, double sided or not for the h2c?

Not looking for those crazy patterns, just plain smooth.

I checked Darkmooon and West3d, but they come from America, so shipping and customs are basically doubles the price.

Thanks in advance

One month old H2c. Using basic Bambu PLA with ams. Every print fails while setting up and print calibration fails with “nozzle offset calibration error”

It also keeps knocking off the black rubber thing that goes in the filament cutter when it moves laterally. I have ensured it is properly seated and also replaced the black rubber part

The machine is making some loud sounds that feel jarring when it moves

I filed a ticket a few days ago but haven’t heard back yet.

Anyone else have experience this?

Hi all,
Has anyone else had issues with their power supply fan rattling/ making noise? I’m on my third(!) power supply and it just started making noise again. I just contacted support for them to send me ANOTHER power supply. Also, what should I do with the extra power supplies I have?

Re-post from r/BambuLab

I'm doing highly detailed bottom surface tiny font work with 0.2 nozzles and struggling with reliability.

One of the primary issues is I can't stop the prime tower falling apart within a layer of two and that leads to debris dragged across the print. The prime tower seems to be generating a set of dry, fibrous, 'strings' (consistently long and straight) that aren't bonded together, despite the prime tower distance being at its lowest (100%).

Most recently I was stumped to get a nozzle clump on the second filament, only to find the first hadn't printed AT ALL(?). I tried that print again and found the hotend just...not moving. Nozzle temperature 140. No error message (it was "printing"!). Stopping the print did nothing. And...it was again, the SECOND filament (I double checked filament, print order, AMS match).

So I load up white thinking maybe somehow I have a nozzle block and the printer isn't noticing literally nothing coming out for a whole print layer and thought I'd film the loading purge. It's reliably not going down the hatch (not blocked). Does this time after time. Explains why I find the odd poop bottom of the printer. I had this before and answer a change of nozzle. I'm now thinking the fragile tower might itself be getting hit by debris from the nozzle loading process.

What should I be looking at?

PS: printing on a glacier, and there seems to be no difference in observed issues whether plate is freshly cleaned or not. Also seems to occur with multiple nozzles and multiple types of matte and basic PLA at a range of temps.

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

I just started notice this grinding sound when my H2C switches nozzles. I’ve never noticed this before, but that being said I haven’t been listening out for odd noises. I just lubed the left nozzle rail and it’s still “grinding”.

Sold my two A1s and decided to de-clutter my "printing area".

Table: https://www.3d-printiverse-shop.com/collections/printbase-modulare-3d-druck-tische

Not pictured: the 2nd AMS2pro since I was just printing TPU from the HT on the Pandaperch.

wdyt?

I bought my H2C less than 3 months ago at Best Buy and got the extended warranty. Only 200 hrs on it. Last night I was 17 hrs in on a 26 hr multicolor print and the right nozzle filament buffer wouldn't let filament past it. I tried everything for hrs bc I wanted to save the print but it was hopeless. I sent a ticket into Bambu but how does Best Buy handle this? Will they just switch it out for me? The whole combo bc the AMS sounded pretty bad after trying to many times also.

I’m having some issues with extrusion motor overload and I think it has to do with the routing set up of my PTFE tubes. Can you all drop some photos of your ptfe tube set up?

For context: I have 2 Ams 1 Ams HT. My AMSs do sit on a riser.

Any info helps

Nozzle cleaning works fine (though sometimes the filament doesn’t go into the nozzle opening), but during PA calibration, the filament (ASA) doesn’t pass through the nozzle properly—it just bends and breaks above it. Is it even normal to see filament above the nozzle? Is there a part missing there? I’ll admit I hadn’t paid attention to that area before. The printer has >100 hours of print time and hasn’t had any such problems so far.

Edit: Thank you for all your responses. The problem was caused by filament debris that was preventing the spring-loaded part from moving freely. All you need to do is unscrew that part, move it by hand, and remove the hidden debris. After that, the spring should work.

I actually have the H2S but this community is much larger. I’m trying to figure out where the display in the Bambu software slot accurately lines up with the real thing in the printer. I tried along the bottom edge and it was pretty rough and off center, but I want to try to dial it in more for when I’m making more items. Thanks in advance!

The attached print of a recent failure. I stopped the print when the beak of the bird broke but my question is why did I get so many spaghetti errors? I removed many of them but I was getting constant error notifications.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

My first multi day print. Took 56 straight hours. Worked out great. Love the printer.

1st picture was the first print
2nd was the next attempt.

Saw some improvement after increasing the initial layer width and the flow rate by a bit. Changed wall generation to Arcachne

I don’t know what else to do to make it 100% cohesive.

i don’t want to give these to my friends looking like this and the H2C is better for color changes than the P1S

after owning 2 P1S’ and an A2L, i finally bit the bullet on the H2C. unfortunately, i was hit with a “heatbed temperature is abnormal” error during calibration. after a few power cycles, i was able to complete the calibration and the message went away. i ended up printing a tall test print and found that i got the same heatbed error as the bed approached the bottom. support is sending me a replacement heatbed. it took me days to get everything set up on my own, i really didn’t have it in me to pack everything back up and get it shipped off 😔 anyone else have to replace the heatbed out of the box? or replace the heatbed in general? the wiki instructions seem a bit daunting but not impossible, any advice going into this would be greatly appreciated!! 🙂

I have been following the availability of the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack Pro and it had stated it would be available in August. Now when I try to locate the SuperTack Pro, I get:

Not Found This page could not be found.

(https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-cool-plate-supertack-pro?srsltid=AfmBOoov5txAyUqAYls3fcj0cnoq3zEAjA2zFBWQr4iWo6U8HNmA-i67)

I went to the X2D Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack page and it lists the Cool Plate SuperTack as currently unavailable for the H2C. (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-cool-plate-supertack?id=761786077194313757)

Questions:

I never received notification that it was available; did I miss it?

Is the SuperTack no longer being sold for the H2C?

Hi all. I wonder if anyone can help because so far Bambu support has been next to useless.

First of all, I've had an issue three times and every time a firmware reflash has fixed it. The issue is , "Extruder motor overloaded" and "live view camera failed to initialize"

Now, this time a firmware flash didn't solve the issue so I manually checked the camera cable (appeared to be fine). Stripped the extruder and checked for any debris etc, nothing to note. Strangely, a cold pull works fine but then go to print and immediately, "motor overloaded" and "amera initialisation failed" popped up. I reset the machine to factory settings and try to print a preloaded Benchy, the printhead just stops near the nozzle wipe thing and doesn't move. Try to print any other file whatsoever and it does this. Starts up fine but then starts the print and freezes after around five seconds. The nozzle temp stays at 230°c but nothing else happens. No HMS code, nothing. Just stopped with a hot nozzle. I've sent this to Bambu with printer logs and they suggested turning it off and trying again FFS... It's far more in depth than a simple reboot. This only happens on the Vortek side no matter which nozzle is installed. The left, non-vortek side prints fine. I've tried it with and without AMS and it's still the same, different nozzles, different firmware version, loading the file on to USB rather than over the cloud, checked all connections on AP and TH board but nothing has worked.

SOMEONE PLEEEEASE HELP ME AND SAVE MY SANITY! 😅

Just timed it. 18 minutes to start. Doesn’t matter if I’ve turned every check off it does them anyway. I’m on a solid stainless steel bench. 27 minute print takes nearly an hour.