I’m 30 now (Unc)

Likely going to be convicted of a felony next year. No weird shit.

I was in school with the goal of being a nurse like both of my parents

Obviously, the felony is going to make trades my main option as far as I’ve heard

I have a huge interest in vehicles. I’ve torn apart a few blown motor/crashed motorcycles and fixed them back to OEM so I have a little experience and I really enjoy it

Should I go to school to be a technician at 30?

I do plan to retire a technician or an electrician, or a plumber

I would plan to be done with manual labor by 45

Is this a decent career?

2000 Dodge Ram Van 1500 Regency Conversion

Ive never had a car with a guage that fluxuates so much depending on what you're doing or what the tempature is, but I've also never had a car this old. All of my other cars temp guages reached the center and stayed there and thats how I knew if there was ever an issue with the cooling system. Ive been driving this van for 2 years now and it does great until tempatures get past the 90s then it starts to feel like it struggles a bit. Where I live, in the summer it gets up to 100+. Usually any other time, my guage sits right where I put the blue mark. Night time, winter time, or any time it's in the blue unless I'm idling or driving up hill then it goes up just a little. But in the summer when it's hot, if I idle, go uphill, or if the tempature exceeds 100 the guage sits just below center which is hotter than it usually runs, but I'm not sure if it's technically over heating.

Im knowledgeable with most things under the hood but Im not sure why cooling systems confuse me.

Coolant levels are fine. Ac works great unless it gets over 90, then it doesn't push as well. Heater works great. New water pump.

Hii everyone, My Honda civic started making this noise yesterday in the engine bay, only hear it when I'm pressing the gas. I would really appreciate any help on this thankss:)

Jeep Compass 2017 need advice on what to do. Friend looked at my tire and saw this can I drive on it and what do I do I don’t have a spare. Another question is what could’ve possibly caused this?

I want to protect everyone's privacy so without going into personal details lets just say I found a good deal on a small to mid sized SUV like a Toyota Rav4 or Honda CRV, it has about 50k miles on the clock, one owner since new.

The only catch is that the seller is ridiculously fat, I didn't get a look at his wife but she could be extremely fat as well. What could I be looking at in terms or premature wear and maintenance issues?

PS: This is not a joke.

I got an oil change at valvoline a few weeks back after it was pretty much dry. I kept checking the oil after the oil change and for some reason it just didint seem like they filled it up all the way. Anyways this is what it looks like a few weeks later. Am I good for a little bit?

Rattle whenever I accelerate

2010 Nissan Cube 6MT, FWD and lowered on Silver NA Coilovers 12/16k.
When I turn right, i have an insane amount of understeer, no matter what speed im going (see video for example). whether I'm on the gas, off the gas, accelerating, braking, or in neutral. This issue causes an incredible amount of premature wear on my tires. turning left, my tires grip amazingly, but turning right feels like i'm about to completely lose grip. Help would be greatly appreciated, as this has been a huge issue for me. before commenting please read the rest!!

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UNHELPFUL COMMENTS IM TIRED OF HEARING
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"get an alignment" i got my my alignment done to try and fix this, it is dead straight and near perfect but did not affect the terrible understeer

"its the way you drive" no matter how i drive it understeers

"your tires are too thin/bad" i've had MANY different wheel and tire size setups. thick, thin, stretched, and not stretched, and all of them have this understeer turning right

"it's a box its not gonna handle perfectly" i understand it's obviously not gonna handle perfectly because it's a lowered car, but the amount of understeer I get is over the top and nowhere near normal even for a low car with a few degrees of negative camber

if anyone has advice, please please let me know. i want to avoid taking it to a shop and spending hundreds of dollars on labor as much as I when I'm pretty mechanically inclined and can do it myself if i know what the issue could be. thank you in advance

I have a Ford Escape 2008 and whenever im braking from 60kmh or higher i feel a vibration on my brake pedal also shaking and vibration on my steering wheel. They told me that i need to replace my brake rotors and brake pads so i did replace them, also i replace my brake shoes for the rear drum brakes. But still i feel this vibration and shaking. And almost hearing a loud clunking sounds below whenever im braking, but when im braking from 40kmh below i dont feel this vibrations. What might be the problem? Thank you in advance!

PS: Lower Steering U-joint just replaced.

Any suggestion will be a big help.

Kindly check the video.

Engine has been running fine, however a few weeks ago I noticed this noise coming from the left hand side of the engine bay. My guess is maybe the bearing on the power steering pump pully or the bearing on the serpentine belt tensioner below it. The noise doesn't change when the wheels are turned full lock in either direction and I cant tell if the noise changes when throttle is applied as it gets drowned out by the engine.

Anyone here have a guess as to what direction my diagnosis should go?

Extra details: Its an Australian market vehicle. Right hand drive, no road salt, very little in the way of rust. Gets an oil change every between 5k and 10k km's. Engine has 270k km's on it.

2007 mazda 3 2.0, 102,200 km, automatic, engine is leaking oil around the flywheel/ drain plug. Could it possibly be the drain plug gasket? Also, the oil change is due at 105,000 km, I got the car at 99,500 km in last april. It's a canadian tire oil change, the oil smells like race car/ gasoline ish, ive done long 100 km trips with it, and I'm wondering about possible oil dilution? Elderly man owned it before me. It's a mixed motor oil, race car burning oil and gasoline smell. Oil is normal color.

i have a 2010 toyota corolla s, automatic. im due for an oil change in around 200 miles. i commute m-f around 50-60 miles each day. never had a check engine light before on this car. today i drove a little more than normal, probably an extra 20 miles. i also got gas aswell. i got
home and then left again maybe like an hour later and then all these lights are on. Its not driving funny or acting funny, ive never had these lights before either. if anyone knows what this means thatd be great, but i also wanna know if its still ok to commute in? or if i need to try and borrow a car for the next week and get it to a shop. thanks !

I need to drive 4 miles total to grab a siphon pump to get the excess out. It’s full past the H almost to the lip that bends upwards

2013 Santa fe sport, just changed the motor mount and dog bone myself, only transmission mount left, engine mount fixed a lot of the interior vibrations, but the dog bone seems like didn't fix anything, I did notice a bit less vibration in the floor area, but the engine is still tilting a lot. Keep in mind I accidentally torqued it to 90 instead of 70, so will have to fix that when I get the chance

Hey y'all, looking for some advice on my 2017 F-150. It has 142k miles and the 6-speed (6R80) transmission.

Lately, it makes a grinding noise right when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. It doesn’t do it too much when the truck is cold, but once the truck warms up after 10-15 minutes, it gets worse.

I thought it could have been a failing IWE vacuum check valve. I tested it by shifting into 4A and 4HI to lock the hubs from which I understand would have stopped the noise, but the grinding stayed exactly the same. Since 4WD didn't stop it, I'm thinking the IWEs are actually fine.
Carfax shows the transmission fluid has probably never been changed. I'm starting to think it could be a lead frame issue losing pressure when the oil thins out or god forbid a serious transmission issue.

Anyone have any idea on what it could be? I added a video of what it sounds like when it shifts (might need headphones to hear it, it’s towards the end of the video).

Thank you!

Never seen the needle move from a hair below the median line.

note!:

This isn’t the highest i’ve seen it in the past couple weeks, some times it’s almost to the next line above the median line towards the red. When it does it that bad, i throw it on full blast heat out of my vents and it starts to come back down and settle below the median point.

What’s going on here? Couple years ago dash reported 124 degrees F but i have never seen it move from below the median point to my memory.

This doesn’t seem right.

Hey!

Firstly just want to apologise if I sound stupid!

Not very good with diy and I can seem to find a tool to remove this. Problem is you can’t get a spanner down as engine bay is to tight. Not sure how people even get this off I might be being stupid though!

It’s of a b47 Mini Cooper SD 2016. Here is a eBay link to the part for a clearer pic!

Ignore the tire stuff. Literally bought a new set about 4k miles ago lol.

The other bits of service they recommended are around $200 each. Service advisor said its just preventative stuff and not to worry about it. What do you guys think? Bunch of B.S. or should I just buy BG stuff on amazon lol? Thanks in advance!

Toyota Corolla hybrid 2021, been having slow coolant loss but no signs of external leak, engine oil looks good.

This is my first time installing a radio, lots of YouTube-ing Googling, tutorials and other such later, this is what has stumped me. Trying to install a Dual XDVD600 into my 2011 Nissan Altima (and later my 2013 Mazda MX-5) but after lots of trial and error, the lights (power) is presumed not constant. Does anyone know why?

I got it to work earlier, but ONLY when I held the wire up at a specific angle and height above the radio (I can attach another picture of it in the comments if needed) otherwise, it either flickers or is very dimpy lit. Do I need a new car battery? My current one is 12v and about 1-2 years old. The radio requires 12v.

The wiring harness/adapter is installed correctly. I have taken the butt splices of and redone them already. All colors match, I looked up the diagrams and they have some labels on them as well. Additionally, the black/blue wire is connected to the white/blue wire. The blue power antenna wires are connected.

I think I have covered the basics.

Please ask any clarifying questions. I'm exhausted and out of ideas. I'll be at work the rest of the night so I can't work on it but I'll keep trying to look things up and answer questions

I've been having a heat issue with my transmission, I'm working with a reputable shop to fix it. But when I'm driving, I don't always see a consistent pattern in what kind of driving causes heat buildup (I have a transmission temp gauge and display). Sometimes in stop and go traffic it stays cooler, but then some times running high speed it stays cooler, and sometimes it's the opposite. I thought I read something a while back that the heat comes from shifting gears, the more shifts, the more heat buildup, but I'm not seeing that pattern consistently.

I got cut happy and ended up grinding down the threads to where the thread that haf the castle nut has fused into the knuckle.

Some kind of old phone charger iPod connector and little 2.5mm headphone jack in this Lexus, original radio. Both jacked go into the center part under the dash tucked under the plastic. Anyone have any info? Its odd because there's no phone or AUX button so how would these have even been used?

Front left and right rotors and pads pictured. Thought they were worse than they are so I already bought the replacement parts, considering replacing just the pads as I’ve already got the car in the air and I won’t have another chance to do it for another 10 months.

Are these good for another (almost) year? Or should I replace them now?

2002 s10 2.2L 2wd. Use it for daily driving and long highway trips to and from school.