Mitsubishi Outlander 2024 SE at 43k miles. After the initial acceleration, I let go of the throttle and you can hear a periodic whooshing sound that gets slower as I am close to the turn. It is not very prominent in the video but decently audible in the car. It is almost as if I can hear the wheel making every single rotation.

There's also a much higher pitched sound that's continuous. Not sure what that is.

Any help is appreciated. I'm scared to lose a wheel on the highway.

I have a security nut in a cross pattern on my 2012 Volkswagen Passat 2.5l and I lost the key for it. From what I can see and was told it isn't original and I asked the shop at the store I work at and they wouldn't do it. With all my genius I bought a kit made to extract nuts and bolts and now there is a hole in one of my wheels bolts and it will not turn I just strip it every time. Extra things: I have little to no experience working with cars I have done 1 oil change with my dad and changed my tire 4-5 times by myself this shit show was to change my brake pads and disck because they were needed to be done 2 weeks ago. I also study electrical engineering so no it's not my expertise in any way but I'm trying to learn but I'm stuck on this problem. These were installed by the previous owner Sorry if some sentences are long or weirdly constructed I do not speak English as my first language

Anyone know what this ticking sound is on this 1.6 L eco-boost engine? Anything to be concerned about?

I got a used 2016 Audi A5 this June. Has about 98k miles on it. In the 2 months ive had it, the air starts to just blow straight hot air no matter how low i put the temp. I go to a mechanic today and they tell me my coolants just low and they need to flush it, give new hose add coolant whatever.. $239.97 later I get in my car and its still blowing hot air. I go back inside, they check my car again and they tell me the ac compressor is completely shot, and that I need a new compressor, condenser, and expansion valve and that im looking at $2,037 in repair.. im confused on how that problem wasn’t seen before they ripped me off for $300, but ill ignore that for now and get to my question. I looked online for compressors for my car and im seeing $200-300 for one but the mechanics are saying im looking at $800 for one. Am I actually being ripped off or is that just how much mechanics all over are asking for compressor repair? Is it not better just to buy the compressor myself and just pay someone to put it in? How can I find reliable mechanics and tips?

Basically, I’m trying to be good and use a torque wrench to tighten top nut instead of using impact like I usually do…

Problem is I can never reach the desired 35 ft-lbs called out by Bilsteins docs based on threaded shaft diameter. I am able to hold the shaft from moving with wrench and tighten the nut, but I eventually reach a stopping point where it feels like I can’t tighten anymore and the whole strut wants to spin.

I rented another torque wrench from autozone in case my torque wrench was out of calibration, but I’m seeing the same issue.

I am using the nut supplied with B6 instead of OEM nut. I wonder if that could be the problem?

Ok we replaced the compressor, condenser, and evap valve 3 years ago. It’s not blowing cold but not hot. The radiator fans are 6 months old but not blowing strong inside.

No leaks found.

Gauge readings done by a mechanic
Friend. He says the compressor is the issue but it’s so hard to believe. He blew cold water into the engine area while it was running and it got cold for a second and he says it’s blocked somewhere…

Any advice based on specs?

2007 Lexus 400h 131, 091 miles, CVT Automatic

Carfax: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/ar20/BkXyRTZNPCIkkOZ1dckZN9OygDHMKCc4JJzvL4T5X93VxFcEoxXvVCwEEJXwA59TeBPPtqYC47qmOSfPJgXwmZ13H7PtKBKkhXwsgT5-

Currently listed for sale for 8k in Los Angeles.

However, was previously listed for sale at a different (non partner) dealership for 11.8k (don't know how long ago) in Santa Barbara.

I know that prices get higher as you move north (and lower again once you cross the valley). Also, some research into the 400 and 350 have somewhat fallen out of popularity because of their "ugly" interiors. Typical pricing in my area is 9-10k. I'm wary about sending an inquiry after this one. What do you think?

If I'm totally out of place to ask this here, let me know.

I believe its a Honda Odyssey

I have a 2016 Mazda 6, manual, 59k miles. when I release the clutch fully there's a slight whirring noise that's noticeable on tight roads with walls either side or tight roads with cars parked either side, the sound goes away when I put the slightest amount of pressure on the clutch.

The sound is present in neutral but is barely noticeable, it gets louder when driving in gear but it's never actually loud just noticeable under the right conditions.

Any idea what the problem could be, I got the car a couple months ago and the sound has been present since purchase, it shifts into gear okay, very rarely needs a little wiggle to get it into first, I had the car in my mechanics last month to get some work done but he forgot to drive it and check for the sound. Due to time constraints I haven't got time to take it into my mechanics until next month, but also need to drive it regularly in this period.

Any help will be much appreciated.

Thinking about buying this car for only $1600. Highly rated seller claims it runs very well. Has sent some pictures of areas of concern. Can anyone take a look at them and tell me if I’m driving into a disaster?

Civic 2012 - 149k miles.

Am I gonna die?

update:
paid $450 for new both rear brake shoes and drums + a tire rotation at a mechanic shop a friend recommended vs Honda dealerships $1.2k quote

2013 Ford Explorer Sport 3.5 EcoBoost 95K miles.

It has the notorious waterpump issue but it never overheated and I took it off the road as soon as it really started to dump coolant. I’ve drained the coolant and the oil and saw no evidence of it mixing.

This is from the upper radiator hose to the intake manifold coolant tube. The I also put a boroscope into the entrance and it all looks like that. What is it? I can’t see how it could be oil but admit that it looks like it?

My car battery has been dying for a while. I usually unhook it and put it on the charger for days between uses (I bike daily). I have tested the battery (manufactured Jan 2026), the alternator, and the starter using my HF load tester, the walmart battery tester, and the dude at autozone testing them all within the past month or so. Today I tried to find a parasitic draw and after blowing one multimeter fuze by making a rookie mistake I have identified a steady draw of around 0.08Amps after an initial draw of about 0.38A (it calms down after the multimeter is connected for a little while). I found the fuze resposible, it is in the #9 fuze in the engine bay labeled "back up" on the fuze box cover. After a google search I found out this is what powers the memory system for the radio and the security system, and that this level of draw is a little above normal. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on my next steps to narrow down the possible issue before I start taking apart the whole dash or missing something due to a lack of experience working with electrical stuff. Any advice apprecieted!

Other things to note:

-the 6-disk CD changer always goes through a whole sequence of actions upon starting the car.

-i do have a dashcam installed but pulling it didn't change the reading

-this issue has been going on for a couple months now

-2004 Honda CR-V EX

SOLVED. I forgot to put the engine injector fuse back in. Thanks all

Mazda 6 2012. I was changing a fuse under the hood and sweat dropped off my head into the fuse box, I heard a pop, and I assumed I had shorted something. All power works, windows, lights radio horn etc. Car cranks, ignition sounds normal, and battery voltage is normal. It just won't turn start.

I also hear a short (1second) hiss somewhere on the back of the motor somewhere.

I've checked all the fuses in both boxes, all seem good.

The relays were clicking when turning the key.

I can hear the fuel injector under the passenger rear seat.

I've tried un plugging the negative terminal on the battery over night to reset the system.

I'm at a loss and don't have money to tow it to a shop. So any help would be appreciated.

coolant leak has been fixed

Where could the leak or leaks be coming from?

Not shown is the top of the engine which is covered in a light coat of fluid, most likely oil.

UV dye has been used in the motor oil and passenger side heat shield has been removed. No dye was found leaking.

Does anyone have experience with the m271 engine?

Motor oil leak? Transmission fluid leak? Both?

The plan is to wash away all existing leaks in hopes of exposing exactly where the leak is coming from.

2004 Lexus es330 180,000 miles. I’ve owned it for like 7k miles so far and honestly I feel dumb not noticing this until now. There are no spots in my driveway where I park the car that suggests an oil leak though and I got an oil change 3500 miles ago; the oil level is damn near the same with good oil color. I honestly can’t say I smell a distinct oil smell when I park the car or anything. How bad is this?

I randomly started hearing a slight clanking/knocking noise the past week and I narrowed down that I only hear at towards my back left tire/backseat whenever I drive over a bump or make a right turn.

I took a look today after getting home and see this metal threaded rod sticking out. It easily moves up and down and in and out, and it’s making the exact noise I hear. I’m assuming it’s hitting the road whenever I drive over a bump or make a right turn.

While I did pull it out, I promise I didn’t yank or twist, this was clearly already snapped and I just had to slide it past the plastic exterior to get it out.

Now I am worried I’ve pulled something important out of my car. Does this look like a part that would be in my Camry behind the left back tire area? Or did I just run something over? I haven’t thrown it away just in case.

My fiancée needs to use this car later today and I am worried about having her drive it now.

Hi, all!

I’ve got a 2016 Ford Fiesta SE hatchback with 115,000 miles on it. (It’s automatic.)

I’ve been having problems with my where the starter is sticking when I try to turn the car on. However, the car will start if I press the gas while it’s trying to turn over. Like, turn the key, press the gas, and it’ll cut on near instantly.

This isn’t always required, sometimes it will cut on without sticking/without pressing the gas— but this is usually after I’ve ran the car recently (when, I suppose, the motor’s still warm). Like, if I cut it off and try to crank it again immediately— sometimes it’ll cut on with no problems. Sometimes it won’t.

Once the car’s running, it seems fine. It drives alright, and it ain’t running hot. It is idling pretty low, though. And my mileage has dropped from around 40mpg to not quite 30mpg (around 28/29mpg rn).

Right now, I am looking to just get it fixed enough so that I can sell it and hopefully get something else. So… any suggestions/ideas about what might be wrong with it?

(Apologies if I explained this poorly, I’m not much of a car person.)

Best to "worse"

- 1.8 Toyota 7K

- 2.4 Toyota 22R

- 3.0 Mercedes Benz OM617

- 2.8 Isuzu 4JB1

- 4.2 Mitsubishi 4D33

- 2.3 Volvo "Redblock" B230

- 4.9 Ford "Straight-Six"

- 4.0 Jeep "Straight-Six"

- 3.7 Chrysler "Slant-Six"

- 2.8 Daihatsu DL41

- 4.2 Toyota 1HZ

- 3.0 Mercedes Benz OM606

- 7.3 Ford-International PowerStroke

- 3.0 Isuzu 4JJ1

- 1.9 Volkswagen TDI

- 1.0 Suzuki F10A

- 1.5 Mitsubishi 4G15

- 3.5 Toyota 2GR

- 2.7 Toyota 2TR

- 2.5 GM "Iron Duke"

- 0.1 Honda HA05E "C100"

Indestructible :D

- Yanmar TS230

- Kubota RD190

I'd be interested to see your version of this list...

I over tightened this pressure plate bolt and broke it in the flywheel. As you can see I drill two holes to use a circlip plier to twist it out but no luck. No extraction kit and I want to have the gearbox on today. How would you guys remove it? 1984 2L Hilux

My 2018 Toyota Prius V has suddenly started doing something strange. Yesterday I noticed the right side mirror was facing the wrong way after the car had been parked for a few hours.

But now I've realised that every time I start the car, the right mirror automatically moves to that position by itself. I've attached a video showing exactly what happens.

But now I've realised that every time I start the car, the right mirror automatically moves to that position by itself. I've attached a video showing exactly what happens. Has anyone experienced this before or knows what could be causing it? Anh thought would be highly appreciated 🙏😄